So is anyone going to answer the question, or is it safe to say everyone will just tell him not try it?
I didn't research the Konis. It looks like the fronts are only inserts. I don't have the drill for the bottom, or interest in hack sawing the stock OEM shocks out of the housing + filing required to remove any internal metallic aberrations to get the insert to fit. Wish they had linked the instructions.
also, don't buy breaker bars from AutoZone. The bar is only as thick as my middle finger, bends like a carbon fiber golf club.
he can try but it wont be the same if that is what he's looking for.
You can probably get the appropriate drill bit for less than $10 on Amazon. If you don't have a file or a hacksaw, go buy them - they're cheap! When I installed the Konis in my car, I had to unscrew the old inserts that were held in with a large gland nut on the top. Cutting and drilling would've been easier.
I've had two Autozone breaker bars break (in the same day)...the guy told me he wasn't going to give me any more if I broke another one.
lol
if i were him I'd tell you they call it a breaker bar for a reason and you got what you paid for
You don't know any car guys who'd have something you could use?soccerballtux said:need drill, and vice grips, and horse or table or something to bolt the vice grips to so I can drill into it
is that real? Ha. That's awesome.
True story. That one came off, but the driver's side axle nut required the purchase of a 3/4" drive breaker bar.
those chrome nuts will torque too mine has about 2 degrees of turn to it now
Koni's set on full-soft? Dial up the damping in the front to help correct understeer.
Springs/shocks. The sway bar is doing it's job if the nose is squatting down while cornering hard. All the sway bar does is keep both wheels tucked into the body to prevent roll. If it's dropping hard to begin with, it can only be springs/shocks.
You don't want to change out springs to stiffer rates without changing out shocks to match (or if the springs rate exceeds the max rate on adjustable). They need to be a match set, otherwise you'll get severe underdamping (this is why ricers are always bouncing so much). Shock rate and spring rates must be designed for each other; shocks will have a recommended spring rate range.
is this my problem?
I don't think I have understeer? Just side/nosedive/body roll in the front when turning.
With the lowering springs, free negative camber alignment ftw, without even taking it to the shop!
I can turn up the damping but this wouldn't help roll would it?
Expect some body movement, it's not the end of the world! Stiffer damping will slow down how fast your car's body moves, which may be the sort of feel your looking for. You got adjustable shocks, so adjust them! All it'll cost you is a little time.
Take notes on how each setting feels as you go thru the corner. do this until you find a setting that 'feels' right to you. I found with my car that the fronts set almost all the way soft, and the rears set to medium gave me the best cornering ability. but then I have a Mid engine Rear wheel drive 2 seater - completely different animal.
exactly.
play around with different settings between the front and back. I'd suggest find a corner (or parking lot) with NO TRAFFFIC at it and take the same corner at the same speed with different settings.
I warned you that the pro kits weren't going to be a drastic increase in stiffness... you could see if someone on scion forums wants to trade your pro kits for a h&r sport or something stiffer like that, since you already have the Koni yellows those should handle the damping fine on a stiffer spring
Try to find a table of compiled spring rates for the various springs and then choose something that's at least 50% stiffer than stock, off the top of my head I think H&R sports would be a good pick- usually the H&R race is too stiff for street