How to remove LGA775 cooler push pins

[QueBert]

thanks for the tutorial, I have a stock heatsink on my system and the 2 times I was a retard and took it off to clean it I also drop kicked the entire system across the room in a fit of rage trying to get it back on. I've been building PC's since you could buy parts, and have NEVER encountered anything like these mother $^%&*& push pins. I don't want a better cooler but I do want to bolt it down. your guide will lower my stress as it's about time for me to take the system apart to clean it

 

[Navid]

Originally posted by: QueBert
thanks for the tutorial,

You are welcome.

I also drop kicked the entire system across the room in a fit of rage trying to get it back on.

I am sorry to say this. But, that made me laugh.
I know very well what you mean though.

your guide will lower my stress as it's about time for me to take the system apart to clean it

That makes it all worthwhile for me.
Thanks.

 

[daw123]

Originally posted by: Navid

Originally posted by: daw123
The bracket on my BigTyp is so naff, that the plastic push pins were easily removed. I just twisted the outer part of the pin anti-clockwise to the inner part and it separated. I didn't even need to break them / use brute force (although I was willing to do so to remove them).

That is interesting.
Was this the case for all 4 of them or just one?
Do you still have the pieces? Can you show any pictures?
Why would the tabs not hold the pieces together?

I have done this to 3 different coolers (Intel stock, Freezer 7 pro and CM Hyper TX2) and the push pins have been consistent.
Why would a manufacturer not use the standard push pins?

Very interesting.

Sorry Navid for being so late in posting photos. I had to borrow a camera from work.

Here are the photos:
http://i429.photobucket.com/al...sh%20pins/DSC00387.jpg
http://i429.photobucket.com/al...sh%20pins/DSC00388.jpg

 

[Navid]

Originally posted by: daw123
http://i429.photobucket.com/al...sh%20pins/DSC00387.jpg
http://i429.photobucket.com/al...sh%20pins/DSC00388.jpg

Those look like the standard push pins. I don't know why they would have just come off.
Unless someone has ground the inner or outer parts to remove the snapping edges/tabs.
None of the one's I have seen just come off.
Thanks for the pictures.

 

[jjmIII]

Concerning the TR bolt kit:

The screws are the same height as the push-pins. Seems to me it would work on most any heatsink.

 

[eggrolls]

Thanks a lot for posting this. It's just the information I needed since I ordered the TR kit earlier today.

I do have a question though. Does the TR kit come with some kind of insulation between the backplate and the motherboard? The pictures of the Xigmatek seems to have some clear plastic layer on top, but I don't see that on the TR.

Thanks!

 

[jjmIII]

Originally posted by: eggrolls
Does the TR kit come with some kind of insulation between the backplate and the motherboard? Thanks!

Yes, and it is nice too. When you see it you won't be worried. I held out far too long making the switch, but the TR kit it 100% perfect in every way. Glad I bought two on the first order .

Edit: @ SVC

 

[BadOmen]

The backplate of the bolt-thru comes with a plastic sticker covering its metal area entirely. I don't know how isolant the thing is, but it seems that the metal has no direct contact with the MB at all.

I installed on my Gigabyte ds3, with an AC7, and so far everything is totally fine.

And even if it doesn't work, the TR is one of the cheapest things in the market today that fall into the category "Now That's Something".

The only problem is.... my temps are still the same. Rats.

 

[Navid]

Originally posted by: eggrolls
Does the TR kit come with some kind of insulation between the backplate and the motherboard? The pictures of the Xigmatek seems to have some clear plastic layer on top, but I don't see that on the TR.

The main insulator is a thick cushion layer in the middle. The additional plastic layer that goes all the way almost to the end is only present on some units but not all.
Inspect and make sure the metallic part does not touch any solder joints on the motherboard. It is very unlikely for this to happen though.

Originally posted by: BadOmen
The only problem is.... my temps are still the same. Rats.

Did you tighten the screws all the way?
Remember the main objective is to make re-seating easy.
Everything else, requirement for a good cooler, with a flat base, with a good thermal interface, properly applied, remains the same.

There is a trade-off between cooling and low-noise. Freezer 7 is not known to have a super performance in cooling.

What is nice is that now you can remove and re-install as many times as you want without having to worry about damaging the useless push-pins.
Sometimes, it takes a few tries to get the perfect installation.




Added a note to the original post about tightening the screws as far as they go.
Thanks for the question, which reminded me I had forgotten that.

 

[aigomorla]

Do you guys still need this sticky?
I am tempted to get rid of it to clean the main page.
If you guys still think this is needed please PM me... otherwise i will let the topic die

Addon: Okey i got enough people asking me to keep it.. so its gonna stay...

C&C Moderator Aigomorla

 

[daw123]

Callout post for Aigo

Bumpity bump for stickie greatness (as per your request).

 

[AirMail1]

Anyone have a working link to the "technique" to remove the backplate that Navid was referring to in paragraph 6?

OP wrote:
However, if you ever decide to remove the backplate, it will not come off peacefully! Use this technique instead.

 

[Tech_savy]

Thanks for information.......

 

[bigboxes]

Wish I would have seen this years ago. Was working on a client's new pc and couldn't remove the HSF. Ended up cutting the plastic pins with a nipper. Yeah, figured out how to release them later. Never had used stock Intel HSF with the push pins prior to that. Why Intel had to cheap out on that part.LOL