How to Watercool a CM690 [Internal Build]

aigomorla

CPU, Cases&Cooling Mod PC Gaming Mod Elite Member
Super Moderator
Sep 28, 2005
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The Parts:

General Hardware:
Case: CM690
Board: Abit IP35-E [Board cant put out, so Swapping to ASUS P5K-E]
CPU: Q6600 (B3) @ 425x8 FSB. 3.4ghz @ 1.320Vcore
Ram: OCZ PC6400 DDR2 Ram 2GB
Video: EVGA 7600GT
Hard Drive: Seagate 500gb 7200.10
PSU: Antec Neo 550W
Optical: LiteON DVD-RW

Cooling: Custom H20 Setup Internal Build
NOTE: This setup will be good for a B3 Quadcore + 8800GT. OR a DualCore + 8800Ultra
8800Ultra + Quadcore B3 is recomended you split the loop into 2
CPU: Swiftech ApogeeGTX /w Copper Top (I recomend a D-tek Fusion for the same price tho)
GPU: Swiftech MCW60
Chipset: Swiftech MCW30
Radiator: Swiftech MCR320
Pump: Swiftech MCP355 aka Liang DDC-3.2
Reservoir: Swiftech MCRes Micro
Tubing: 7/16ID 5/8OD Masterkleer
Fans: YateLoon DSL 120mm x 4 And YateLoon 140mm x 1 Side Fan Stock Mounts

These prices were pulled direct from website as of 1/10/2008 "prices may change i dont guarantee these prices"
Shopping Cart at Jab-tech
Final Price

Edit: i forgot the price of the fans and ramsicks. I'll edit this later.

Disclaimer: I do not represent Jab-Tech in Any way. They are not paying me either for this link. You DO NOT HAVE to use Jab-tech as a source. However i highly recomend them.

Case Mod Section:
Step 1: Preparing the Case.
The only way I could plan an internal build was using a top mounting radiator scheme. This meant the Case needed to get cut at the top. Case cutting is not something super difficult to do. It does require patience and adult supervision if your young.

Swiftech offers the dimensions of the radiator on their website.
http://www.swiftech.com/assets...-dimensions-600x81.gif

You then need to construct a template for the radiator.
Now you need to take the case apart. There is a lot of screws on the case, and the top snaps via plastic clips. Be careful and don?t rush. Once your case is bare you need to prep the cutting area.

The case was prepped for cutting by casting the top with masking tape. This prevents scratches from slips to some degree, and also allows you to draw on top for your template.

My Template laid on top
Template Transfered onto Case

Step 2: Cutting.
There are many ways to cut cases. My favorite tool for this is a dremel and a jigsaw. There are other tools called a nibbler which takes little bites out of cases. However this tool will leave your hand cramped after cutting a large segment.

For the dremel, I use reinforced cut off wheels. They can be bought at almost any hardware store. You can also use regular heavy duty cut off disks. I highly recommend using safety goggles when cutting your case.

Dremel Set
Dremel Cut Off Wheels

After some work on the case, the template should be cut out like so:
Top Cut with rad placed for inspection

Note: I messed up the cut on this case. The template should have been dragged forward a little bit to compensate for the rear IO panel. However I was able to fix it without compromising too much. I recommend you guys to make sure you measure twice and cut once.

Now, I wanted to add some bling to this case so I decided to spray paint it. When you spray the case, make sure your not right up to it. I recommend you step back around 1-2 feet and spray uniformly.

Painted Internal Pic
Painted Front Pic


Preparing the H2O gear
Step 1: Cleaning
It is very important that you clean all your equipment before you install. The radiator for example will sometimes have left over sodder / flux inside. If these things aren't cleaned out, they can clog your pins on the blocks, and hurt performance.

The Blocks:
To clean the blocks, all you need is distilled water. DO NOT use Alcohol on the blocks, because they can dry out the rubber seal and end up breaking them. In some cases, Alcohol is also shown to crack plexiglass tops. Unless the block is USED, a good rinsing is all it usually takes to make sure your blocks are clean.

The Radiator:
The radiator only needs a good flush as well. Manufactures recommend pouring hot water to rinse the flux and sodder out. The water does not need to be boiling, but it should be fairly hot. The method in which you chose to heat the water is up to you. Make sure you re rinse with distilled to keep your equipment mineral free and preserve the non conductive properties of your coolant.


To be Continued Still working things around.
[Going to finish part 2/3 tonight] Had to retake some pictures to make them a bit clearer.
Bear with me people! Thank you!
 

Oupavoc

Member
Jan 3, 2008
29
0
0
Cool nice job, got the same case, its awesome. Post more pics of you mod. looks good so far but i was thinking to put up a 2 120mm rad not 3, and by the looks of your chassis your not going to be using the top usb and sata ect.
 

aigomorla

CPU, Cases&Cooling Mod PC Gaming Mod Elite Member
Super Moderator
Sep 28, 2005
20,893
3,245
126
Originally posted by: Oupavoc
Cool nice job, got the same case, its awesome. Post more pics of you mod. looks good so far but i was thinking to put up a 2 120mm rad not 3, and by the looks of your chassis your not going to be using the top usb and sata ect.

yes.

And im at work right now, so i cant finish posting part 2 and 3.

But by the time i finish, hopefully people will be able to reproduce it.

Also losing the SATA and USB is worth it for the larger class radiator. Expecially if you want to grab the board and GPU in your loop.

The project is done and completed incase anyone is curious. The writeup is still in pieces with pictures scattered all over my photobucket and flash card, so arranging it is whats boggling me.
 

aigomorla

CPU, Cases&Cooling Mod PC Gaming Mod Elite Member
Super Moderator
Sep 28, 2005
20,893
3,245
126
Guys i thought you should all get a little update.

Im swaping boards out this weekend so im gonna put this to rest for a little bit.

The Abit IP35-E pissed me off for the last straw and a ASUS P5K-E is waiting to get dropped in it instead.

Im terribly sorry for the delay, i'll finish the writeup but the pictures will have to wait until i update it with the new board.


 
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