Humidity meter for basement

[AlFrugal]

My unfinished basement has a moisture problem. There is efflorescence on the walls and papers/books absorb moisture over time. The basement walls are cinder block. The house was built in 1965 (little or no built-in basement moisture protection). I don't have a dehumidifier.

I'd like to measure and track the basement humidity. Can someone recommend a humidity meter that is accurate enough to be useful, but is not too expensive. The $10 Accurite digital indoor thermometer/humidity meters are popular but some customer reviews criticize the accuracy of their humidity measurement. How much accuracy is needed for basement moisture control?

 

[boomerang]

The $10 Accurite digital indoor thermometer/humidity meters are popular but some customer reviews criticize the accuracy of their humidity measurement. How much accuracy is needed for basement moisture control?

I don't see why that wouldn't be accurate enough for your use. The money would be better spent on a dehumidifier, but it's your money and you can spend it however you wish.

You need a Bridge along with the Tower Sensor with the AcuRite setup. I have one Tower Sensor in the basement and one on the main level at our primary residence for when we are away for the winter. I use them to monitor primarily the temperature but they also sense humidity.

 

[highland145]

I don't see why that wouldn't be accurate enough for your use. The money would be better spent on a dehumidifier, but it's your money and you can spend it however you wish.

This. I have a GE on in the shop that I set the percentage I want and forget it.

One brand, samsung(?) sold by Sears, had recalls because of a fire hazard.

 

[nakedfrog]

You talking about the AcuRite 00613A1? I think boomerang is talking about a different one, based on the "$10" mention. I just got one last week, along with my humidifier.
I have two cheap mechanical hygrometers, and overall I definitely feel like the AcuRite is most likely accurate enough for my purposes. Based on my research, the people giving it poor reviews either got bad units or are expecting way too much from a $10 digital hygrometer.

 

[AlFrugal]

You talking about the AcuRite 00613A1? I think boomerang is talking about a different one, based on the "$10" mention. I just got one last week, along with my humidifier.
I have two cheap mechanical hygrometers, and overall I definitely feel like the AcuRite is most likely accurate enough for my purposes. Based on my research, the people giving it poor reviews either got bad units or are expecting way too much from a $10 digital hygrometer.

Yes, I'm talking about the AcuRite 00613A1.

I read some articles on basement moisture control. I got the impression that a dehumidifier might not be the best choice for my situation. One alternative solution is applying a sealant to the walls. So I thought my first step should be to get a quantitative reading on how much moisture I have. A dehumidifier isn't cheap and it also has operating expense.

 

[Scarpozzi]

I digital hygrometer will tell you what's up, but ultimately, you're still going to need to get rid of the moisture and it'll always be a battle until you waterproof. I said it in another thread, but if your basement is truly underground, hydrostatic pressure is caused when moisture in the soil seeps to the exterior walls and has to go somewhere...it leeches through the block and is likely your problem.

You can try to fix this by digging a trench around your exterior walls about 10-12" wide (or more) and placing 6 mil or greater plastic down the wall a couple of feet and across the trench. Then line that with a layer of gravel, a drain tile(preferably covered in a sock), more gravel and then landscaper's fabric to keep extra sediment out. If you can direct enough of the typical rainwater out, and keep it away from those walls, it will make a huge difference.

Waterproofing the walls from the inside will make no difference. The water has to be redirected before it touches the masonry.

I picked up a Craftsman dehumidifier with a digital setting. It's a 30pint/day unit and actually has a hose output (which is rare for such a small unit). I paid $39 for it from here:
http://www.searsoutlet.com/d/products.jsp?md=srh_md&stxt=dehumidifier&fromUrl=search

If you think you have serious moisture problems, I'd probably get a larger unit. Most whole-home units are 70 pint/day units. (Just an FYI) So you may want a 50 pint or larger. Remember too that if you have open vents, rainy days will increase the moisture in the air as well and cooler rooms can sometimes attract condensations in summer months.

 

[highland145]

I read some articles on basement moisture control. I got the impression that a dehumidifier might not be the best choice for my situation. One alternative solution is applying a sealant to the walls. So I thought my first step should be to get a quantitative reading on how much moisture I have. A dehumidifier isn't cheap and it also has operating expense.

True. Could just be condensate because the basement is cooler. You could also tape a small piece of plastic to the wall and floor. Pull it up after a couple of days to see if the moisture is coming in via the brick/concrete.

 

[skyking]

I agree that dehumidifying is not the answer, as it will just cause more efflorescence as it increases the transport of moisture through the walls. However, if you heat at all then the dehumidifier is a net zero on power usage. All the electricity used is returned as heat to your home.

 

[Red Squirrel]

Sounds like you may have a weeping tile/seal issue. Given vintage of home you probably have the clay weeping system, which was clay pipes laid down with a slight gap to let water in. It worked ok for the time, but over the years muck starts to get in and they eventually fill up to the point that they cease to work then water will find other ways in. I had to get mine redone, and they put Rub R Wall product on the foundation wall too. Back then they used tar product which was fine for that time too but it wears out over time and starts to crack. I used to get lot of efflorescence too before I fixed it

I started insulating this year, one side has insulation and vapour barrier installed and it's all sealed up, I'll probably do the rest in fall. I'll leave it like that for a year or so to monitor if any moisture forms behind vapour barrier. If not, then I'll drywall.

 

[Billb2]

If you want accurate, repeatable humidity measurements it's a wet bulb dry bulb psychometer.

For example

 

[Scarpozzi]

I discovered a leak under my house last week. I realized I had a bad vent fan under my house, so I ordered a few replacements. I got this, but from an ebay Seller for the same price(free shipping/no tax):

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/to...b_tw8sS1jta2eIFz8k7T6_sTrbLBx1PRoCOgkQAvD_BwE

I've already installed one of the two I ordered...I'm going to put the other one at the other end of my house and reverse the fans to force ventilate the space.

 

[Mike64]

If you want accurate, repeatable humidity measurements it's a wet bulb dry bulb psychometer.

For example

I'm terrified to ask, but where exactly does one insert or apply the wet and dry bulbs of a psychometer to get an accurate reading, hmm?? (Dunno if that was just a typo or a "brain fart", but I think you must've meant psychrometer, no?)

 

[Billb2]

I'm terrified to ask, but where exactly does one insert or apply the wet and dry bulbs of a psychometer to get an accurate reading, hmm?? (Dunno if that was just a typo or a "brain fart", but I think you must've meant psychrometer, no?)

Put it where ever you want to know the humidity and out of any wind or drafts. Probably in the center of the basement at eye level.

And you said you're going to install to ventilation fans.
If both are intake you'll just be blowing all the humidity into the rest of the house.
If both are exhaust you'll just be sucking conditioned air out of the whole house and wasting heat/AC.
If one intake and one exhaust you'll be just exchanging the air in the basement for outside air, But if the basement is conditioned (heat or AC) you conditioning cost will increase since you have to condition outside air.

 

[Mike64]

Put it where ever you want

You missed the punchline implied by my parenthetical... A psychROmeter, with the "R" you left out in your post, is of course more or less a synonym for "hygrometer", and measures relative humidity. A psychOmeter, without the "R", is apparently a Thing, or at least a Hypothetical Thing that (supposedly) measures "mental or psychological activity" ... ETA: Or at first glance, and more amusingly, appears to refer to something that detects "psychos"... :hmm:

 

[Billb2]

appears to refer to something that detects "psychos"... :hmm:

My post certainly did that!

 

[Mike64]

My post certainly did that!

Or possibly just someone who is even moderately observant and has something at least vaguely resembling a sense of humor... /:-