I failed at replacing transmission fluid. What is this going to cost me?

[Hmongkeysauce]

I have a 2007 Honda Accord EX V6. I tried replacing the transmission fluid today. Complete failed. Draining was no problem. But I failed at removing the ATF screw. For what ever reason, I applied too much force at an angle or something and I broke a portion of the "head" (that's the closest thing I know to call it by) where the ATF screw would normally screw on. It's a metal piece and it just broke off. So now, the ATF screw won't even screw back on. I think it's part of the transmission as well so the first thought that comes to my mind is that I may need to replace my transmission. Any thoughts or advice? Thank you.

 

[chucky2]

What do you mean by "ATF screw"?

 

[Bartman39]

Pictures and we might be able to help you...

 

[Hmongkeysauce]

Sorry. Hopefully this works and helps. Picture is here http://i1023.photobucket.com/albums/af352/rojkai/brokeatf_zps7c9e3dd7.jpg

The part where the ATF screw usually screws onto the transmission housing is circled in red. I broke off half of it (the right half).

 

[Hmongkeysauce]

Sorry, it should be ATF bolt. My mistake. It's a giant bolt labeled "ATF".

 

[fstime]

Why are you even trying to unscrew that bolt, you normally just remove the transmission dipstick (as this is the hole you would normally use to re-fill the ATF afterwards by just removing the dipstick and using a funnel).

Instead you have to unscrew this bolt and fill it from there? Is there no transmission dipstick in 2007 Accords?

 

[Hmongkeysauce]

Why are you even trying to unscrew that bolt, you normally just remove the transmission dipstick (as this is the hole you would normally use to re-fill the ATF afterwards by just removing the dipstick and using a funnel).

Instead you have to unscrew this bolt and fill it from there? Is there no transmission dipstick in 2007 Accords?

Yes they do. Unfortunately all the guides I found online mentioned to use the "ATF" bolt for refills. This could end up being a very expensive lesson

 

[Hail The Brain Slug]

Well, you could refill the ATF through your dipstick tube and drive it until you can figure out a way or get a shop to remove the broken part of the bolt and replace it. I can't imagine the removal of the bolt would be too terribly expensive.

 

[Kelvrick]

Is that the filler bolt (#8 in link below)?

From this page, it looks like you're going to need a new casing. I have no idea what the labor charge would be on something like this, but I never would have imagined someone could break it using hand tools (assuming you did?)
http://www.hondapartscheap.com/part...ransmission-automatic/at-transmission-case-v6

 

[fstime]

Yes they do. Unfortunately all the guides I found online mentioned to use the "ATF" bolt for refills. This could end up being a very expensive lesson

Sounds like these guides are over-complicating something simple.

Removing a bolt versus pulling out a dipstick. But there may be some reason why they say to do it that method, I don't know.

---------------

If only the head broke, and there are still a good amount of threads from the bolt still in the casing, it may not leak any fluid from there. If that is the case, I would just fill up from the dipstick (if it is safe to do so) and leave it as is.

 

[someone16]

Damn, looks like somebody got it on there real tight.

But yea, you shouldn't have a problem just filling from the dipstick hole, it probably will just take longer.

 

[Hmongkeysauce]

Is that the filler bolt (#8 in link below)?

From this page, it looks like you're going to need a new casing. I have no idea what the labor charge would be on something like this, but I never would have imagined someone could break it using hand tools (assuming you did?)
http://www.hondapartscheap.com/part...ransmission-automatic/at-transmission-case-v6

That looks to be the conclusion I'm getting at, too. And yes, that is where the filler bolt would usually screw on. Thankfully, the case isn't too overly expensive. Looks like labor is going to be hell, or at least many billed hours.

And yes, I did break it by using normal hand tools. I couldn't believe it, nor could my brother or any of the friends that I spoke with about this.

 

[Kelvrick]

I seem to have come to a different conclusion than everyone else regarding his problem. It seems everyone else is thinking that the head of the bolt broke off with the wrench and the rest of the stud is stuck.

I'm thinking he got the bolt out but the collar around which the atf bolt screws into is broken?

 

[Hmongkeysauce]

I seem to have come to a different conclusion than everyone else regarding his problem. It seems everyone else is thinking that the head of the bolt broke off with the wrench and the rest of the stud is stuck.

I'm thinking he got the bolt out but the collar around which the atf bolt screws into is broken?

Yes, that is correct. It's the worst of the two scenarios.

 

[fstime]

I seem to have come to a different conclusion than everyone else regarding his problem. It seems everyone else is thinking that the head of the bolt broke off with the wrench and the rest of the stud is stuck.

I'm thinking he got the bolt out but the collar around which the atf bolt screws into is broken?

Oh, I see what you are saying. That would be unfortunate. Maybe he can get it welded shut if that is the case. That repair bill for changing the casing is going to hurt a lot. It also wouldn't hurt to call Honda Corporate and explain the situation. You never know, companies can be understanding sometimes in these types of situations.

 

[Hmongkeysauce]

BTW, would I be able to drive it like this to a mechanic (~15 miles)?

 

[fstime]

BTW, would I be able to drive it like this to a mechanic (~15 miles)?

Try finding some kind of rubber plug to seal the hole. Do you have towing coverage with your insurance company?

 

[Pulsar]

It's difficult to tell how much land area you have there, but they have expandable plugs for stripped out oil reservoir fasteners. You could definitely give that a shot.

Option 2 would be to replace the fluid and then use a 2-part solid epoxy like JB Weld to just plug the hole. Most cars never get their trans-fluid replaced.

 

[deadken]

Just some quick comments:
Some cars do come without transmission dipsticks. Generally they are the ones that take synthetic ATF and you don't check or add fluid unless there is a problem or it is being serviced.

If that is a fill plug (or port) on the top part of the transmission there really shouldn't be any or much fluid that gets at the underside. So, I'm thinking that if you have the piece that broke off (all one piece? or did it break into 2 or more?) you *might* be able to:
A) Clean the affected area with some carb cleaner (or something that cuts oil and will evaporate quickly). Be sure to take care not to get a ton of it into the transmission through the broken opening.
B) Test fit the broken piece to learn the orientation that it needs to be installed at. Mark it and the case with a Sharpie Marker so that when the epoxy is on it, you'll be able to fit it in the right way. Clean the edges of the piece that broke off, mix up some 2 part epoxy and epoxy the broken piece back onto the case.
C) Let it 'cure' for at least 2 hours (a day would likely be the longest it will take to be fully cured). Run and drive the car with periodic checks to see if any fluid is leaking out.

Being that it is on the top of the case and used as a fill port it likely doesn't see much fluid or any pressure. If that is the case, then just 'gluing' the broken piece back on should do the trick. Please realize that when you are dealing with cast metal that is broken, it looks kind of porous (like you broke a piece of frozen sand apart and looked at it from the side). That is the same reason that if you use a 2-part epoxy to 'glue' the two 'clean' pieces back together they tend to bond really well (again, they can't be covered in oil or grease).

Please remember not to goop a ton of epoxy in there. The trick is to get the minimum amount needed to get the pieces to hold together. Some guys think you need a 1/8" in between the pieces, when in reality, a quarter of that would be more than enough. Of course, this assumes that the broken piece fits nicely together without the use of epoxy in the first place (a clean break of only one or two pieces).

 

[exdeath]

Should be able to drill enough for a tap and extract the plug without drilling completely through the plug. Then replace it with a new one. Hours work tops.

 

[Meghan54]

I'd think you could put in a rubber expansion plug, at least temporarily. Boat shop is one place to find something like that...made to fit livewells, drain holes, etc., in boats.

Something like these:

http://www.fastenal.com/web/product...gs"|~ ~|categoryl3:"610667 Expansion Plugs"|~

They're neoprene and they do come in various diameters.

 

[OILFIELDTRASH]

Dremel off the other half still attached to the casing (plug hole with rag to keep metal debris out). Once you have it flush I'd do as above suggested and plug it with a rubber plug.

That's what I would do personally it's up to you what you do ultimately.
Make sure plug is tapered so it doesn't fall in.

 

[yhelothar]

Maybe you can drill a bigger hole for a bigger screw.

 

[lavaheadache]

trade it ;0)

 

[LTC8K6]

I would think it will be cheaper to just replace the transmission than to try and replace the case.

I would plug the hole in one of the ways suggested above, and carry on.