I hate socket 775

fref

Junior Member
Feb 13, 2006
13
0
0
Am I the only one who hates socket 775? With over half of the computers that I build, I have trouble pushing all 4 heat-sink pins all the way so that they click properly into the motherboard. There's often one or two of the pins that just won't click, even though I push hard. Sometimes, I'm afraid to push harder because I'm afraid it'll damage the motherboard. So when I have this pin problem, I have to unscrew the motherboard and take it out of the case so that I can push the pins properly while holding the back of the motherboard with an anti-static bag.

Anyone has tips to get around this problem?
 

Tempered81

Diamond Member
Jan 29, 2007
6,374
1
81
they have a lock / unlocked position depending on which way you turn the pin before you press it down. and they must be turned to the unlock position before you pull them out to release the HSF.

they are also fragile/crappy/annoying.
 

fref

Junior Member
Feb 13, 2006
13
0
0
I know they have a locked / unlocked position, that's not the problem. What I'm saying is that even in the correct (locked) position, it's sometimes difficult to have all the pins click into the motherboard because the motherboard bends while you push. I'm often left with one pin that just won't click and I have to remove the motherboard to properly press it down.
 

hclarkjr

Lifer
Oct 9, 1999
11,375
0
0
a lot of people will tell you that you need to remove the motherboard to install the cooler which with some boards it is recommended. my board i can install it with the board still in case with no trouble at all.
 

nerp

Diamond Member
Dec 31, 2005
9,865
105
106
Remove the board, yes.

Or buy a backplate and screw based mounting system/cooler.
 

Denithor

Diamond Member
Apr 11, 2004
6,298
23
81
If building from scratch, just mount cpu/hsf before installing in the case.

I usually go a step further and plug in keyboard/mouse/monitor and power up the motherboard/cpu/ram to make sure it boots correctly before ever installing into the case. That way if I put it in there and it doesn't behave properly I know I've made an install error versus not knowing if the board has a problem, etc.

If this is a personal system and you change cpu frequently just get a bolt-through like mentioned above, makes things much easier.
 

eternalone

Golden Member
Sep 10, 2008
1,500
2
81
I dont use those plastic pin fans just buy a metal screw heatsink for like 15 bucks arctic cooler makes a good one and your set. Its a shame though intel hasnt gotten rid of that stupid design, I think they are even planning on using them with nehalem. For all that money we pay you think they could spring for a metal screw heatsink.
 

Markfw

Moderator Emeritus, Elite Member
May 16, 2002
26,129
15,275
136
Originally posted by: coolpurplefan
Thanks for posting those comments. Ima stick to AMD for less frustration lol.

So just because it takes a few minutes more to mount the HSF, you are going to use a hotter,slower,more exspensive CPU ? That sure doesn't make any sense.
 

coolpurplefan

Golden Member
Mar 2, 2006
1,243
0
0
Originally posted by: Markfw900
Originally posted by: coolpurplefan
Thanks for posting those comments. Ima stick to AMD for less frustration lol.

So just because it takes a few minutes more to mount the HSF, you are going to use a hotter,slower,more exspensive CPU ? That sure doesn't make any sense.

When I bought my $90 X2 5400+, the lowest cost Intel Core2 I could find in Canada was like $135. In any case, this was for a test/HD video computer which means I didn't need the Hulk Hogan of processors. Now I read the Phenoms are better at HD video and they came out with new cheaper dual core Phenoms. But at this point I'm just going to wait until the dust settles after all the new releases in the next few months (Deneb, Shanghai, Nehalem and the faster Phenoms scheduled for January).

I was so tempted to get the new X2 6000+ at 3.1 GHz just to get the extra 300 MHz but I have the impression that it would be a waste of money when the new processors are out.

BTW, one thing I value lately is "ease of use". That means a heatsink you can put on AND take off without ruining your CPU. I just figured out I could use a screwdriver bit with a wrench if I wanted to take off the bolts on my Coolermaster GeminiII S heatsink (after removing the nuts underneath the motherboard). The bonus with that heatsink is it does cool off the motherboard, RAM and northbridge chipset as well with a quieter 120mm fan.

 

Dadofamunky

Platinum Member
Jan 4, 2005
2,184
0
0
It is kind of a PITA. I like using a highlighter pen top, pops them right into place (assuming you can get a decent angle on it).
 

OCChronic

Member
May 7, 2008
83
0
0
Originally posted by: fref
Am I the only one who hates socket 775? With over half of the computers that I build, I have trouble pushing all 4 heat-sink pins all the way so that they click properly into the motherboard. There's often one or two of the pins that just won't click, even though I push hard. Sometimes, I'm afraid to push harder because I'm afraid it'll damage the motherboard. So when I have this pin problem, I have to unscrew the motherboard and take it out of the case so that I can push the pins properly while holding the back of the motherboard with an anti-static bag.

Anyone has tips to get around this problem?

You're not alone. I hate the HSF design and the socket design too. Too bad we have to put up with these design flaws to get the smokin' good chips.

I agree with you 100%. Not only are they hard to install and remove but the platics retension clips are only good for maybe 2 re-installs before they weaken and snap off making the whole HSF useless. Also, the S775 socket pins are extremely delicate and if any get bent in the slightest, the whole mainboard is a glorified paperweight.

 

rogue1979

Diamond Member
Mar 14, 2001
3,062
0
0
Originally posted by: Markfw900
Originally posted by: coolpurplefan
Thanks for posting those comments. Ima stick to AMD for less frustration lol.

So just because it takes a few minutes more to mount the HSF, you are going to use a hotter,slower,more exspensive CPU ? That sure doesn't make any sense.

Hmmm, let me see...

A BE 2400 is $39 at newegg, so that's still less than the cheapest intel e2xxx,
the OP is talking about X2's, not Phenoms. So that's definitely cheaper, not more expensive.

Overclocked to 2.8-3.1GHz, the BE still runs at least as cool as any overclocked e2xxx,
e7xxx or e8xxx.

OK, this one counts! The C2D is faster than the X2!

How does the saying go? One out of three ain't bad, or something like that?




 

Zap

Elite Member
Oct 13, 1999
22,377
2
81
Originally posted by: fref
I have to unscrew the motherboard and take it out of the case so that I can push the pins properly while holding the back of the motherboard with an anti-static bag.

Anyone has tips to get around this problem?

Yeah, how about installing the HSF before installing the motherboard?

If you are swapping CPUs or something in an already built system and are re-using a HSF, then you have to understand how it works and what is preventing it from clicking in.

First, make sure all four pins are in the locked position (90º clockwise) and pulled all the way out.

Second, locate the white nubs that go through the motherboard, and squeeze them together with your fingers or GENTLY squeeze them together with some pliars.

Third, after you put some thermal paste on the CPU, put the HSF on the CPU but don't push down on the pins YET.

Fourth, gently straighten the pins so they are perpendicular to the motherboard and ever so gently push down on them while wiggling them. The point is to NOT push the black pins down, but to push the white nubs through the board FIRST. If all you do is to just mash down the black pins, you are trying to force the pins AND the nubs through at the same time, which doesn't work too well.

Fifth, using two hands push the black pins of opposite corners through at the same time. If that is too difficult, then push one through while holding the other one so it doesn't get levered upwards. The point of this is to keep the white nubs in the motherboard, and if you completely push down one pin without holding any others, the opposite side will pop up.

Once you get the first two pushed through, then do the last two the same way, by either pushing them at the same time or holding one while pushing the other.
 

GeezerMan

Platinum Member
Jan 28, 2005
2,145
26
91
So, if one removes the plastic pins, and goes with something like the bolt through kit, isn't it possible that the holes left when removing the plastic pins are bigger than the bolt that will be used? So, it's the springs that keeps the HSF tight?
 

Zap

Elite Member
Oct 13, 1999
22,377
2
81
Originally posted by: GeezerMan
So, it's the springs that keeps the HSF tight?

Yes, the Thermalright bolt-thru kit can be tightened down all the way, and the springs exert the proper pressure on the heatsink.
 

daw123

Platinum Member
Aug 30, 2008
2,593
0
0
I use the Thermalright bolt through kit and it was fantastic. A lot better than the crappy plastic push pins. It only costs $5 and it is a much better system: the HSF would only
fall off if you broke the MB in two.

Zap is correct that the screws and springs on the kit aalso apply equal pressure across the CPU heatspreader. All you have to do is tighten down the 4 screws until they are tight (but not too tight).

My HSF is the Thermaltake BigTyp 120VX, so it wasn't even a Thermalright HSF, although it still worked.

The only problem I had was that since the BigTyp 120VX is so big, I had problems with access getting a screw driver to turn the screw head. I screwed in the screws using my fingers then used mole grips (adjustable locking pliers) to tighten the screw from the side rather than the top. It was a bit fiddly and time consuming, but I got there in the end.

I also wrapped the bare metal on the base plate of the bolt through kit with eletrical tape to prevent shorts. Probably not necessary, but I still did it for my own piece of mind.

I will re-use this bolt through kit when I install the CPU heat block for the liquid cooling system. I may have to pack out the screws with washers to make up any gaps.
 

OCChronic

Member
May 7, 2008
83
0
0
Originally posted by: Zap

Yeah, how about installing the HSF before installing the motherboard?

If you are swapping CPUs or something in an already built system and are re-using a HSF, then you have to understand how it works and what is preventing it from clicking in.

First, make sure all four pins are in the locked position (90º clockwise) and pulled all the way out.

Second, locate the white nubs that go through the motherboard, and squeeze them together with your fingers or GENTLY squeeze them together with some pliars.

Third, after you put some thermal paste on the CPU, put the HSF on the CPU but don't push down on the pins YET.

Fourth, gently straighten the pins so they are perpendicular to the motherboard and ever so gently push down on them while wiggling them. The point is to NOT push the black pins down, but to push the white nubs through the board FIRST. If all you do is to just mash down the black pins, you are trying to force the pins AND the nubs through at the same time, which doesn't work too well.

Fifth, using two hands push the black pins of opposite corners through at the same time. If that is too difficult, then push one through while holding the other one so it doesn't get levered upwards. The point of this is to keep the white nubs in the motherboard, and if you completely push down one pin without holding any others, the opposite side will pop up.

Once you get the first two pushed through, then do the last two the same way, by either pushing them at the same time or holding one while pushing the other.

These are all good tips to know when installing these crappy HSF assemblies but the original point is that even experienced builders like myself still have lots of problems installing & re-installing them. I wish I could whip one right at the heads of the engineers that dreamed these up and tell them to smarten up and design something that is easier to remount and more robust.

Like I said before, even if you follow the above steps and go through the inconvenience of tearing you rig apart & remove the mainboard just to reapply thermal paste to the CPU you'll be lucky if the plastic tips survive more than 1 re-mount.

 

Zap

Elite Member
Oct 13, 1999
22,377
2
81
Originally posted by: OCChronic
you'll be lucky if the plastic tips survive more than 1 re-mount.

I have one Intel retail boxed HSF that I've re-used at least 20-30 times. :Q
 

nyker96

Diamond Member
Apr 19, 2005
5,630
2
81
I used the sidewinder kit previously posted on a ACF 7pro and OCZ Vendetta 2. Works like a charm on both. give it a shot youll never go back to push-pin.
 

Liet

Golden Member
Jun 9, 2001
1,529
0
0
Originally posted by: OCChronic

These are all good tips to know when installing these crappy HSF assemblies but the original point is that even experienced builders like myself still have lots of problems installing & re-installing them. I wish I could whip one right at the heads of the engineers that dreamed these up and tell them to smarten up and design something that is easier to remount and more robust.

Like I said before, even if you follow the above steps and go through the inconvenience of tearing you rig apart & remove the mainboard just to reapply thermal paste to the CPU you'll be lucky if the plastic tips survive more than 1 re-mount.
Couldn't agree more! I was testing components after a hardware failiure and needed to
install my CPU in a new motherboard... the damned pins had warped out of shape and simply wouldn't take! I spent an hour working on it, trying to control my frustration and rage so nothing expensive would get thrown across the room. At the time I wished bodily harm on whoever decided these pins would be part of an acceptable cooling solution.

In the end, I purchased a wonderful ASUS fan with a backplate and thumbscrews, and couldn't be happier! Fantastic investment.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/...x?Item=N82E16835101011
 
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