I need a chainsaw

[natto fire]

After using this Stihl I am getting one

Depending on use, a properly maintained Stihl will last a very long time. I was homesteading on a place that had an 026 used at least once a week, and showed it. Not sure exactly how old it was, but 15 years was not inconceivable. I did my part to tear down and clean the saw, and it looked like those before me had done the same, as it ran like a top. It was on it's second carburetor (this was in 2010), everything else was original (except the obvious consumables like air filter, plug, bar and chain). They really are great saws, in my experience.

 

[Muse]

I bought a McCullough electric pole saw (you attach to pole when you need the extensibility), at Costco maybe 10-12 years ago for something like $80. I'm still using it with the original chain, which I've never sharpened. I inspect and adjust the chain tension frequently, as recommended in the manual. I use it only occasionally and so far exclusively on my two non-dwarf plum trees. One of those trees has gotten so big that it's literally collapsing under its own weight. I cut down roughly 1/2 of that tree over the last month using the chainsaw. I borrowed a mechanical (non-electric or engine) lopper from my town's tool lending library a couple weeks ago. That was handy for some smaller out-of-reach limbs. Also borrowed a rigid pole saw, which I used for one thing only -- a large limb I cut with the chainsaw had settled down on the chainsaw blade and I couldn't extract it. The rigid pole saw allowed me to cut through the remaining wood and finish bringing down that big limb.

I managed to do all this without mishap. You really have to be careful doing this kind of work, you can injure yourself and also mess up some stuff (that tree's limbs were threatening my neighbor's windows and limbs could have messed up the fence and even fallen in the neighbor's yard. I managed to avoid those things).

I just switched from commercial chain saw oil (which I'm almost out of, I have a quart container) to canola oil. That oil is actually easier to deal with in the saw's system of self lubrication (when you press in on a big button). In addition, it's way better for the environment since the canola oil is biodegradable. All the cutting I'm doing is over my vegetable garden and I don't want to spray petroleum based oil all over the place. Look up using canola oil on chain saws and you will see a lot of cool info! Many folks do it now, professionals included. I do not recommend cooking with canola oil (if you research it you will discover that the processes they use to refine it make it generally not very healthy to consume by virtue of substance residues), however as a chain lubricant, it's great.

 

[Subyman]

If there's a chance that you'll have to do a decent amount of cutting - let's say, more than 1/2 a tank of fuel - then you will want a saw that has vibration isolation. I'm not familiar with the Stihl 170, so I don't know if it has it or not. I do know that with some entry level chainsaws, e.g., Poulan crap, after a little while of use, your hands start getting all tingly feeling due to the amount of vibration. I switched from a cheap chainsaw with a 20" bar to a Husqvarna with a 16" bar - the Husqvarna has a bigger engine, is able to cut through more wood without getting bogged down, and I can cut for hours without my hands getting that horrible feeling.

I have a Husqvarna Rancher 460 (I believe, I need to check the exact model number.) Cost around $500. Awesome saw. I've used it a ton over the years. Tons of power and easy to maintain. Can't go wrong with Husqvarna or Stihl. I have a 4 stroke Stihl straight shaft string trimmer that is amazing too. I'll never buy junk small engine tools, not worth the hassle. One pull and you are off to work.

 

[Charmonium]

If you don't need it for heavy duty use, by which I mean going all day chopping up felled trees, I'd get an electric chainsaw. You never have worry about getting a clogged air filler or carburetor (from leaving gas in over the winter). The only think you need to remember is to top off the chain oiler.

But like all things, they're not all made equally so you need to do some research.

For traditional chain saws, you can't go wrong with a Stihl.

 

[Vdubchaos]

I like my Echo........bought it mostly thanks to success with my weed wacker. It's been great, love both.

 

[Elixer]

How does everyone sharpen the chain, and how often?
I went to the local rental place for a saw, had about 5 39"+ and 2 56"+, and 1 145"+ that needs cutting, and last season, the 16" noname brand, (and that was the biggest they offered), kept on jamming on me, (as in, starts cutting, then it would just stop, and the chain wouldn't move until I whack it a few times to clear the dust. It had plenty of oil as well, but it took a long, long time to get through the tree.) brought it back, and I said chain wasn't sharp, and he goes they only do that once a year?
So, this season, I still have about 3 39", 2 56", and that beast 145", and unsure what to get, if I go buy one this time around, instead of messing with a rental.

Rental was $75 for 4 hours, and they gave 1/2 pint oil, and no gas.
A professional tree service wanted $2500 for those trees.

 

[lxskllr]

I use a file, and sharpen it when it doesn't seem to cut as well as it should. Maybe 8 hours of saw time?

 

[DrPizza]

I suck at sharpening, or at least the first couple of times I did it. The Amish up the road from me do it - I think it's like $3 per chain. I have several chains, so instead of sharpening, I just quickly swap out a chain, and once I have 3 or 4 that need sharpening, it's only $12 for perfectly sharpened chains.

 

[Mandres]

I usually hit it with a light touch of the file after every two tanks of fuel. A big job goes a lot faster if you keep the chain sharp. The bitch of it is that getting the bar in the dirt instantly dulls the chain and it's real easy to do.

 

[Muse]

I usually hit it with a light touch of the file after every two tanks of fuel. A big job goes a lot faster if you keep the chain sharp. The bitch of it is that getting the bar in the dirt instantly dulls the chain and it's real easy to do.

I have never sharpened my cheap-ass McCullough electric ($80 or so at Costco). I've had it around 12 years. Can I reasonably sharpen the chain? I do adjust it just about every time I use it. I'm into sharpening, have done so for years.

I have a couple of really old non-dwarf plum trees in the backyard that I've wanted to remove for years. I did chop out around 1/2 of the biggest around 4-6 weeks ago. Totally removing with this chainsaw is a stretch but I figure maybe possible. Or I could get it mostly out and contract out the stump stuff.

 

[NetWareHead]

I suck at sharpening, or at least the first couple of times I did it. The Amish up the road from me do it - I think it's like $3 per chain. I have several chains, so instead of sharpening, I just quickly swap out a chain, and once I have 3 or 4 that need sharpening, it's only $12 for perfectly sharpened chains.

I do the same thing. A pro shop can sharpen a chain quickly and the cost is neglible, I think its $10-15 if I remember correctly. Yes I could do it myself but I'd have to invest in the files, tools etc... I sharpen chains maybe once a year, maybe once every 2 years; really depending on my usage. For someone who cuts more often, the cost of doing it yourself becomes worth it. For a lumberjack not near a dealer/pro shop, something you can do out in the field is a good skill to have.

 

[natto fire]

How does everyone sharpen the chain, and how often?
I went to the local rental place for a saw, had about 5 39"+ and 2 56"+, and 1 145"+ that needs cutting, and last season, the 16" noname brand, (and that was the biggest they offered), kept on jamming on me, (as in, starts cutting, then it would just stop, and the chain wouldn't move until I whack it a few times to clear the dust. It had plenty of oil as well, but it took a long, long time to get through the tree.) brought it back, and I said chain wasn't sharp, and he goes they only do that once a year?
So, this season, I still have about 3 39", 2 56", and that beast 145", and unsure what to get, if I go buy one this time around, instead of messing with a rental.

Rental was $75 for 4 hours, and they gave 1/2 pint oil, and no gas.
A professional tree service wanted $2500 for those trees.

When I was on a volunteer saw crew for fuel reduction, we would sharpen at least once a day. Our days were 10 hours, and we would be running about 3 tanks of gas through a Stihl MS 362, with a 20" bar, Stihl safety skip chain. Mainly cutting juniper and Pinon pine.

Stihl chains have laser etched teeth to show the angle to run the file. I learned pretty quick about the pressure and angle to cut a good "c" into the chain. It's nice if you are cutting the same type of wood throughout your work to keep an eye on the chips and know when the chain is getting dull.

 

[desidude]

Hi friends,

Sorry to hijack this thread, but, I thought it would be better than starting a new thread.

I have a lot of tall Pine trees on some land where my home is. I need to cut a lot of these trees, as they are dying and may fall on the house in a strong storm, hurricane etc.

I have family friends who are willing to help me with this task, and they suggested that I get a gas powered chainsaw.

Does anyone have recommendations for this? or any other alternate saw that is good for cutting down tall, medium thickness trees?

Thank you so much,
desidude

 

[Subyman]

I suck at sharpening, or at least the first couple of times I did it. The Amish up the road from me do it - I think it's like $3 per chain. I have several chains, so instead of sharpening, I just quickly swap out a chain, and once I have 3 or 4 that need sharpening, it's only $12 for perfectly sharpened chains.

I take mine to my local Ace Hardware. They charge $5 per chain. Fine with me. I don't want to do that busy work. If I keep good oil on the chain, it will do a full day of pine trees or 3 hours or so of hardwood before it needs to be sharpened. If you keep hitting dirt with it then it won't last long.

I finally got a chance to look at the saw a few days ago. Mine is a Husqvarna 329, which is comparable to the 460 Rancher. Great saw.

 

[Subyman]

Hi friends,

Sorry to hijack this thread, but, I thought it would be better than starting a new thread.

I have a lot of tall Pine trees on some land where my home is. I need to cut a lot of these trees, as they are dying and may fall on the house in a strong storm, hurricane etc.

I have family friends who are willing to help me with this task, and they suggested that I get a gas powered chainsaw.

Does anyone have recommendations for this? or any other alternate saw that is good for cutting down tall, medium thickness trees?

Thank you so much,
desidude

If they are very mature, large pine trees then they are some of the easiest to get down. However, I'd question if you guys should tackle that without someone experienced being there to help. Also, if you have someone experienced there then they likely have their own saw...

 

[Muse]

If they are very mature, large pine trees then they are some of the easiest to get down. However, I'd question if you guys should tackle that without someone experienced being there to help. Also, if you have someone experienced there then they likely have their own saw...

I am not greatly experienced but have kept this one dictum in mind always: Never have your head (or any other body part) where a kicking-up chainsaw could impact it.

It's best to have your head squarely on your shoulders when using a chainsaw. You have to be able to anticipate what's going to happen before it happens.

 

[Charmonium]

I am not greatly experienced but have kept this one dictum in mind always: Never have your head (or any other body part) where a kicking-up chainsaw could impact it.

It's best to have your head squarely on your shoulders when using a chainsaw. You have to be able to anticipate what's going to happen before it happens.

Very true. But since eventually you will always make a mistake, that's why you need a helmet. A basic chain saw helment with a mesh face shield is pretty cheap and well worth using.

http://www.amazon.com/Husqvarna-ProForest-Chain-Helmet-System/dp/B0030MIHBY

You'll feel a little dorky wearing it and I don't think the ear muffs work very well since it's hard to get a tight fit but I suppose you can take those off.

Anyway, it beats loosing your sight or getting a homemade frontal lobotomy.

 

[NetWareHead]

My neighbor had some trees fall on his property and he decided to clean them up himself. He emerges from his house with the orange chaps and full helmet with visor. My first impression was to laugh "this guy thinks he is a lumberjack or something?"

I stopped laughing when I became more informed. Chainsaws are one of the most deadly tools you can use. Thoe chaps are designed to instantly unravel and choke up a spinning chain stopping its movement cold. The helmet protects your head/face from kickback.

Kickback can happen instantly and all you need to do is touch the kickback zone of the saw against an unyeilding surface. This video is safe for the lighthearted: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fQprZevgbxU Lookup chainsaw injuries or accident on google images if still unconvinced.

 

[twinrider1]

LOL, oh man, after that video ends, the grid square of related videos is definitely not safe for those with a weak stomach.

 

[lxskllr]

Sharpened my chain today. Took about 15 minutes. I cut up some wood at a coworker's place, and it kicked my ass. I'm about halfway done. Supposed to be hot tomorrow, so I'll just do machete work, and pick it back up Friday.

 

[Subyman]

My neighbor had some trees fall on his property and he decided to clean them up himself. He emerges from his house with the orange chaps and full helmet with visor. My first impression was to laugh "this guy thinks he is a lumberjack or something?"

I stopped laughing when I became more informed. Chainsaws are one of the most deadly tools you can use. Thoe chaps are designed to instantly unravel and choke up a spinning chain stopping its movement cold. The helmet protects your head/face from kickback.

Kickback can happen instantly and all you need to do is touch the kickback zone of the saw against an unyeilding surface. This video is safe for the lighthearted: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fQprZevgbxU Lookup chainsaw injuries or accident on google images if still unconvinced.

I saw that renovation realities episode a few months ago. I knew before he even started that he was a friggin idiot for trying to cut into a tree entangled in a chain link fence. A pro is needed for that if you don't know what you are doing. I don't use the chain saw anywhere close to metal. Around metal fences I get out the sawzall (obviously not for huge trees lol.)