I/O Magic 8X DVD Dual Format $49.94 AR (+tax) at Staples

[tracerbullet]

According to their website here

they have this burner for about $50 after rebates:

$129.94 - $50 instant savings - $30 mail-in rebate = $49.94

This is a (very) long http link to a page from their new flyer. If it doesn't work correctly maybe try a direct look-up for part number #554889

 

[b0mbrman]

Does dual format = dual layer?

What does either of them mean anyway?

 

[stockjock]

Who is the maker of the drives too? anyone know?

 

[Granamere]

Dual Format means it can write to DVD -R and DVD +R. Also DVD -RW and DVD +RW.
Dual Layer means that the drive can burn on both layers of a DVD. So instead of only being able to get 4.7 GB on a DVD you can get 8.5 GB on a DVD. Also to get 8.5 GB on a DVD the media has to be dual layer media not just any DVD media.

I hope that helps.

Granamere

 

[Nick5324]

Originally posted by: stockjock
Who is the maker of the drives too? anyone know?

I just got this email and was going to post, tracerbullet beat me to it..... i was also wondering what drive is in the box...

Edit: A google search leads me to believe it will be an optorite or BTC. If this is the case, the OM Mad Dog (NEC 2500A) is a better deal.

 

[toant103]

Originally posted by: b0mbrman
Does dual format = dual layer?

What does either of them mean anyway?

+R -R

 

[cw42]

I got the BTC version of this several months ago, and now I wish I have a NEC. These burners arn't able to burn 4x discs at 8x, and chances are they won't be able to upgrade firmware to allow dual layer.

btw by "dual format" they mean it does + and -, not dual layer. or maybe they mean that it burns dvd and cds.

 

[Kipper]

Dual layer drives are around 80-100 w/o rebates...but media is wholly unavailable.

 

[b0mbrman]

Originally posted by: toant103

Originally posted by: b0mbrman
Does dual format = dual layer?

What does either of them mean anyway?

+R -R

Oh ok. So what's the benefit?

 

[ScrapSilicon]

Originally posted by: b0mbrman

Originally posted by: toant103

Originally posted by: b0mbrman
Does dual format = dual layer?

What does either of them mean anyway?

+R -R

Oh ok. So what's the benefit?

-R supposed to be more compatible with older settops and game consoles..+R with right drive can be booktyped as a DVDRom ..pretty much negating that argument ..as always ..ymmv

DW800A @ 912 and counting

 

[Delbert]

Sorry for the temporary diversion, but what does booktypeing as a DVDRom mean/do?
Also, just to be sure, -R is ?dash? R, not ?minus? R, right?

 

[b0mbrman]

This is pretty confusing...Say I just planned to back up some of my DVDs to play in my Xbox and on my computer. Does that mean I'd have to use -R for the Xbox and +R for the computer?

Is there a way around this?

 

[HQH51]

Hopefully, the rebate goes to RebateHQ down in Florida when the deal comes around. Searching for past rebates for I/O Magic rebates on Staples' website shows that old rebates went to RebateHQ. I remember dealing with I/O Magic rebates in the past and they were gawd awful. The past rebates went somewhere in California and it was a hassle to get the rebates.

Can sweeten the deal with Staples coupon if you got any.

 

[Karaktu]

Originally posted by: MadCowDisease
Dual layer drives are around 80-100 w/o rebates...but media is wholly unavailable.

Verbatim has some out, but be prepared to shell out for it.

 

[cix22]

Originally posted by: b0mbrman
This is pretty confusing...Say I just planned to back up some of my DVDs to play in my Xbox and on my computer. Does that mean I'd have to use -R for the Xbox and +R for the computer?

Is there a way around this?

If you want to watch burned DVD movies in your DVD player, and your DVD player isn't more than 5 or 6 years old, you'll be fine with either +R or -R. I'm actually not sure if the XBox reads one better than the other, perhaps DVDRHelp.com would provide more details.

99% of the modern DVD players that you'll find available online and in-stores will play either format fine. I have a 4x NEC 1100a that only burns DVD+R and I have played DVDs in at least four or five different DVD players, including my PS2 without problem.

As far as which format to use on your PC, well you pretty much answer your own question when you buy the drive, right? If you buy a multi-format DVD burner, you'll obviously be able to read either format. And as long as the DVD is finalized during the burn, you really shouldn't have any problem playing it in other PCs that have DVD-ROM drives.

Hope that helps.

 

[ScrapSilicon]

Originally posted by: Delbert
Sorry for the temporary diversion, but what does booktypeing as a DVDRom mean/do?
Also, just to be sure, -R is ?dash? R, not ?minus? R, right?

dash or minus either way

booktype,more info and the NEC1100A ..once fw upgraded does an excellent job of it

quoted from here

Most new DVD players will of course recognize the DVD+R media since the +R format itself is no longer new. As you might recall DVD+RW was introduced before DVD+R so most players will have no problems reading DVD+RW media - unless the player is really old of course. However all players will playback DVD+R and DVD+RW media if the booktype/bitsetting is set to DVD-ROM. Most 2. generation DVD+ writers (which were able to write both DVD+RW and DVD+R) were produced by Ricoh. Since Ricoh knew that DVD+R would cause compatibility problems with thousands of DVD players all over the world they implemented a feature in their firmware that would allow you to change the bitsetting for DVD+R and DVD+RW to DVD-ROM. HP (which were selling OEM Ricoh drives) chosed another approach by releasing a firmware where the booktype for DVD+R was hardcoded to DVD-ROM. NEC did the same with their ND-1100 writer.

 

[CheetahMk2]

Hm... some DVD drives [SCREW TOSHIBA] *refuse* to work with DVD+R booktype since they were *tards about it back when the standards were still competing to kill the other. Meaning, any drives from about 2-3 years ago may be capable of reading +R, but will not due to the manufacturer 'crippling' the firmware to 'encourage' people to use their standard. I learned this the hard way, with a laptop drive. Same argument carries over to set-top boxes and manufacturers not wanting people to burn DVD-movies [piracy argument], so it was crippled there [DVD + and - R]. Again, a friend has one of these. Bitsetting fixes it in a jiffy, but -R doesn't support it.

In my opinion, DVD+R's have a more fuller, more resillent writing strategy and error correction system, and DVD+RW speaks for itself. Only problem is (alleged?) price fixing early on made +R expensive... but prices seem to have stabilized. For games or something, use -R, but pictures or data, use +R. I went with -R A05 before because of media price [.$65 opposed to $1 for +R], but I sprang again now for the OM one for Dual format and possibly dual layer... if you get a ND-2500A, the best firmware is supposedly 1.07beta5 by Herrie over at RPC1. Media/compatability reviews here.

 

[MysticMan1]

:light: After you add in the sale tax you're paying around $55 for the I/O Magic 8x drive, here's are some prices on some other 8x burners:

Some current low prices on Pricewatch.com: 8x NEC ND-2500 OEM $65 shipped, 8x NEC ND-2510 with 2.4x DL burning $84 shipped, 8x/8x LiteOn SOHW-812S $68 OEM, $72 retail shipped, 12x/8x ARTEC VOM-12E48X $77 retail shipped. NO rebates! No taxes! for most people. :beer:

 

[TimeKeeper]

Liteon LDW 851S (this is what I got)

 

[mrrman]

has any1 bought this drive? Is it any good( brand wise)??

 

[bocaboy]

Get it down to around $30 net by PMing at CC.

CC deal: 120 OTD - 30 MFR - 20 CCR = 70
Stpls deal: 80 OTD - 30 MFR = 50

Go to CC w/ Stpls ad and it becomes:

120 - 44 PM (110%) - 30 MFR - 20 CCR = 26 plus tax on 76

Tip on identifying drive: If box is shrink-wrapped and mentions Pinnacle software, it's an Optorite.
If box is not shrink-wrapped, and has a white label about 1.5" x 2" on the back with the firmware version, then it's a BTC. I've used both with success, but the Optorite with the latest firmware seems to have a better reputation.

As always, a sympathetic ear at the customer service counter goes a long way in making this work. I'd recommend buying at shelf price at a normal register, leaving the store, then going to the customer service desk with only the receipt later. That way there's no chance of them witholding the rebate forms and receipts.

 

[Turgon]

Originally posted by: bocaboy
Get it down to around $30 net by PMing at CC.

CC deal: 120 OTD - 30 MFR - 20 CCR = 70
Stpls deal: 80 OTD - 30 MFR = 50

Go to CC w/ Stpls ad and it becomes:

120 - 44 PM (110%) - 30 MFR - 20 CCR = 26 plus tax on 76

Tip on identifying drive: If box is shrink-wrapped and mentions Pinnacle software, it's an Optorite.
If box is not shrink-wrapped, and has a white label about 1.5" x 2" on the back with the firmware version, then it's a BTC. I've used both with success, but the Optorite with the latest firmware seems to have a better reputation.

As always, a sympathetic ear at the customer service counter goes a long way in making this work. I'd recommend buying at shelf price at a normal register, leaving the store, then going to the customer service desk with only the receipt later. That way there's no chance of them witholding the rebate forms and receipts.

HOT DEAL!!! I just pulled it off without any problems whatsoever. It should work every time because their policy is to match purchase price only, not "after rebate" price.

 

[Nitemare]

Originally posted by: bocaboy
Get it down to around $30 net by PMing at CC.

CC deal: 120 OTD - 30 MFR - 20 CCR = 70
Stpls deal: 80 OTD - 30 MFR = 50

Go to CC w/ Stpls ad and it becomes:

120 - 44 PM (110%) - 30 MFR - 20 CCR = 26 plus tax on 76

Tip on identifying drive: If box is shrink-wrapped and mentions Pinnacle software, it's an Optorite.
If box is not shrink-wrapped, and has a white label about 1.5" x 2" on the back with the firmware version, then it's a BTC. I've used both with success, but the Optorite with the latest firmware seems to have a better reputation.

As always, a sympathetic ear at the customer service counter goes a long way in making this work. I'd recommend buying at shelf price at a normal register, leaving the store, then going to the customer service desk with only the receipt later. That way there's no chance of them witholding the rebate forms and receipts.

Yup, did it without a hitch

 

[ECHO]

Go to CC w/ Stpls ad and ...

Do you mean the print out from link provided by the OP?

 

[buildingacomputer]

I ordered one from Staples.com. Does this come with a DVD writing software, or must I buy one? If I have to buy, what do you recommend?