Maybe they insist on using oem? Or they really want to assure their profit.
that sensor is useless anyway it just monitors your catalyst.
the big ones are bank 1 sensor 1 and bank 2 sensor 1.
i see it is a lamba sensor... thats why it's expensive.
If that's true, just get some spacers
Might as well just unplug the negative terminal cable and reset the light then lol.
Autozone didn't give you a quote for the O2 sensors after they pulled the code?
'Spacers' a.k.a. spark plug nonfoulers, will not help with his problem. Those are used to bring the rear sensor OUT of the exhaust stream to try and shake a P0420 (or just 'P042x,' as that whole range is different ways of saying 'bad catalyst').
Doing so is at best a grey area, where someone could plead ignorance. If it wasn't for the fact that I'm explaining this right now and you're reading it. Same thing for someone using 'O2 simulators.' Directly manipulating the performance of federal emissions equipment is kind of, you know, not legal. Shops obviously can't do it, and IIRC it's just as illegal for you to do it yourself. I don't think it's like some stuff- e.g. TPMS sensors can be thrown in the trash by their owner, but a shop can be fined ten grand for allowing any vehicle that came in with fully-functioning TPMS to leave without it. Yes, every tire shop that breaks a sensor and lets the car go is technically liable to have a $10,000 fine levied against them.
But with emissions stuff, I imagine it's just that individuals don't typically ever get caught. Pretty sure...still not legal.
Anyhow, all of that does not matter one bit, because tampering with the sensors can only reduce their responsiveness, which is actually the opposite of what he wants. He has a slow response code, which means the signal is not responding to changes quickly enough. I have rarely if ever seen a car set a code for downstream slow response. They just don't do it. The programming really only cares about seeing the proper voltage and a lack of switching, which, luckily, is pretty similar to a 'slow response'.
What I'm thinking that code (with the weird 'sensor 3' designation) denotes is that the downstream O2 is actually be used for more than a catalyst monitor- the PCM's programming is actually doing something with the info it gets from 'sensor 3,' even if it's only using it at a backup for the upstreams. On most cars, an upstream sensor problem simply means open loop all the time.
...I may be rambling. Cliffs: you need an O2. If you can find a Denso, NGK, or other Japanese OEM that claims fitment, it will probably be fine. Otherwise, I bet it's available for less than the quoted >$400. Dealer list is not that far over wholesale, typically. Play nice with the guy at the counter and he may even sell for less. It helps to wear a workshirt with a nametag. They'll ask if your shop has an account, and when you say no, they'll just throw it under someone random and give you better pricing. But I dunno, I may just get cheap parts because of my winning personality. Or something.
...either way, if you can't get a good price locally, look for a parts department that sells online. Most major makes have plenty of them selling at a generous amount below list. Hell, Ford runs their own site that prices the part at all the local dealers that were willing to be listed (unsurprisingly, the ones with high markup never show up).
Powertrain warranty is 10 years or 100K miles per the website
https://www.mitsubishicars.com/owners/service/warranty
Let the dealer take care of it.
Powertrain warranty is 10 years or 100K miles per the website
https://www.mitsubishicars.com/owners/service/warranty
Let the dealer take care of it.
I drove around with a bad behind the cat O2 sensor in my 99 Subaru Legacy for 6 years. Finally replaced it when I sold the car. The stupid code came back two days later . I always thought it was actually a wiring issue, considering it came back so quick I really think it was a wire issue. Luckily, the guy buying it didn't care that the code came back.
I never noticed any issues from the bad sensor, MPG was always way better than EPA estimate.
It really wasn't that bad to change. Borrow a socket from Autozone, soak it in PB-Blaster similar, and run the engine for long enough to heat up the exhaust pipe a little but not long enough to fully heat up the sensor.
It should be part of the Federal Emissions warranty. And if not, then figure out how to replace the part yourself. Sometimes, you need a special wrench to get the O2 unit out, but you should be able (in most cases) to get to it without taking a lot of the car apart to reach it. If you can't get to it from the top, sometimes it can be accessed from underneath.
I actually live in PA lol. Not sure why the guy mentioned something about Cali inspection having something to do with the sensor cost.
Vehicles equipped with a California Certified Emission Control System and registered in the states of California, Connecticut, Delaware, Maine, Maryland, Massachusetts, New Jersey, Oregon, Pennsylvania, Rhode Island, Vermont or Washington are also entitled to the California Emission Warranty.
The California Emissions Warranty is more stringent and longer than the "standard" Federal warranty. You need to hit the dealer to fix the problem under the emissions warranty if you're within the mileage limits. (It's rather confusing how Mitsu puts the terms of the Cali warranty, which includes time limits of 5 years, 7 years, and/or 8 years and varying mileage for various components.)The California Air Resources Board and MMNA are pleased to explain the emission control system warranty on your Vehicle.
In California, Connecticut, Delaware, Maine, Maryland, Massachusetts, New Jersey, New York, Oregon, Pennsylvania, Rhode Island, Vermont and Washington, new motor vehicles must be designed, built and equipped to meet California's stringent anti-smog standards.
He mentioned that because your state is one of the ones listed in the Warranty Manual as having the Cali Emissions Control system vs. the "standard" Federal Emissions system......
From page 17 of the Mitsu warranty manual:
From page 21 of same manual:
The California Emissions Warranty is more stringent and longer than the "standard" Federal warranty. You need to hit the dealer to fix the problem under the emissions warranty if you're within the mileage limits. (It's rather confusing how Mitsu puts the terms of the Cali warranty, which includes time limits of 5 years, 7 years, and/or 8 years and varying mileage for various components.)
You pay them $54 which should be refunded to you. This is covered by 8/80 Federal Emission Warranty. Google it up. There is no question on it. Dealer is on the hook to fix it so that it passes emission. Find the relevant section from the federal document, print it and take it with you. He *will* relent once you show him that you know your stuff. As far dealer telling you "not covered under warranty", if you are not willing to fight for your own rights, just pay them whatever they are asking as you don't want to seem to push this.
Went to the dealer and showed them the paper work for the federal emissions warranty. They tell me the catylct converter and fuel injection system would be covered but O2 sensors are part of maintenance which is included in the 5 year 60k mileage package which I'm obviously over. Didn't even get work done today I've been arguing on the phone and even drove 6 miles from work with the printed paperwork for the emissions for them to tell me they will gladly do a diagnostic but the sensors aren't covered.