I'm not sure how they can claim that.
COVERED EMISSION PARTS
Catalytic Converter(s)
Electronic Spark Control
Evaporative Emission Canister, Evaporative Emission
Liquid Separator and Controls
Exhaust Gas Recirculation Valve and Control System
Fuel Tank Filler Tube and Cap
Induction Control Valve Assembly
Multiport Fuel Injection System
Positive Crankcase Ventilation Valve
Timing Advance/Retard System
Hoses, Clamps, Brackets, Pipes, Gaskets, Belts, Seals
and Connectors used in the above systems
Vacuum, Temperature, Altitude, Speed and Time Sensitive Valves and Switches for the above systems
Any other components necessary to assure conformity.
If failure of one of these components results in failure of
another part, both will be covered by the performance warranty
Seems O2 sensors would fall under the last bullet point as they are necessary to assure conformity.
And in California
CALIFORNIA EMISSION WARRANTY
24
Accelerator Position Sensor
Air Flow Sensor
Camshaft Position Sensor
*Catalytic Converter(s)
Crankshaft Position Sensor
Emission Solenoid Valve
Evaporative Emission Canister
Exhaust Gas Recirculation Valve and Control System
*Exhaust Manifold(s)
*Exhaust Manifold(s) with Catalytic Converter(s)
*Exhaust Pipe(s) between Exhaust Manifold and Catalytic Converter
*Exhaust Pipe(s) with Catalytic Converter(s)
Fuel Filter/Evaporative Emission Separator
Fuel Injectors
Fuel Level and Fuel Pressure Sensors
Fuel Pressure Regulator
*Fuel Pump
*Fuel Tank
*Fuel Tank Filler Tube
Fuel Tank Filler Cap
Ignition Coil(s), High Voltage Wires and Boots
Induction Control Valve Assembly
*Intake Manifold
Knock Sensor
*Liner A/F Sensor
MAP Sensor
Oil Control Valve
Oil Filler Cap
*Onboard Emission Diagnostic Device
Positive Crankcase Ventilation Valve
Spark Plugs
*Throttle Body
*Transmission Control Module
*Valve Lift Control Motor
*Valve Lift Control Unit
Valve Lift Sensor
Control Relay, Registers and Solenoids used with the
above systems
*Engine Control Module used with the above systems
Oxygen Sensor(s) used with the above systems
Temperature Sensors used with the above systems
Vacuum Hoses, Clamps, Fittings and Tubing used with
the above components and systems
Vacuum Sensor(s) used with the above systems
'Spacers' a.k.a. spark plug nonfoulers, will not help with his problem. Those are used to bring the rear sensor OUT of the exhaust stream to try and shake a P0420 (or just 'P042x,' as that whole range is different ways of saying 'bad catalyst').
Thats the page I have printed and it's also in the owner manual. I'm in PA but I see how they could squirm their way out since that last bullet is pretty generic. Since I haven't been to the dealer for all the maintenance , except for the last mileage maintenance they will probably also say some stupid stuff too.
I need to get someone from work to drive 20 min with me so I can drop the car off there tomorrow and then back. Also a pain when you work with antisocial people ha.
You can always ask to talk to the regional rep. They have the ability to override the dealer. Seems pretty simple though. O2 is absolutely an emissions related component.
Just went outside and checked the model number on the passenger side door. It ends with a 7M which means it's a PZEV model and the warranty booklet says those models are entitled to California emission warranty as well as federal. And since PA has adopted the California model, like you mentioned 02 sensors should be covered for 80,000 miles or 7 years.
Going to need to find the regional guy here in PA and call them to discuss this. I'm not paying crap this is ridiculous.
Edit: Actually they may be right the parts covered as extra mileage due to the emissions due to California have an astriks next to them and O2 sensors do not. I guess this means for example catalyct converter goes bad and takes the o2 sensor with it then it's covered.
I would argue the hell out of this, but in the end the bold part above is correct. Only the items marked with an * are covered under the increased 7/8 year 70,000/80,000 mile warranty. The rest of the stuff is 3 year 50k miles. I do think it's funny that the turbo on my Evo X is covered for a longer period of time than a freaking O2 sensor that is ONLY there to determine if the cat is okay.
If the issue is with the sensor itself (and it probably is given the code), you don't have to worry about driving with it on. The bank 3 sensor is definitely the post-cat sensor. I know for damn sure that the Evo X ECU doesn't use that cat for anything (plenty of people remove them as you can easily tune / turn off that check engine light). I can say with almost 100% certainty that the regular lancer with the N/A version of the 4B11 doesn't do anything different.
For what it's worth, your sensor is in the same place as mine. You need a 22mm (7/8 inch) O2 sensor wrench / crows foot to change it (and a breaker bar / ratchet if you get the socket version). You'll also want some kroil oil, pb blaster, etc... I actually don't think it really takes more than that (it is also pretty easy to reach). You may need a small socket or screw driver to remove the small protective panel under the car in front of where the rubber grommet is. I routed my wideband through the front grommet hole (where the front O2 sensor ties in) so I'm not sure if you have to remove the seat to access the rear O2 harness... but even if you do... it's not hard stuff. Also you only need to be under the car for a few minutes (can be easily done with jack stands and I think you could get away with just the right side of the car in the air). The replacement sensor should run you ~$150 online.
Don't worry about the o2 sensor problem until you have to pass emissions again. It is just a bunch of crap to get people back to the dealers to have work done' oh and to monitor how clean its running. This is coming from an auto technician. Most people are very bothered by the light being on but i assure you that it will not affect how your car runs. You wont be able to tell if new stuff comes into you codes though.
Is it the Denso 2344386 Downstream California sensor?
Seems to be it from the Denso website.
http://densoautoparts.com/find-my-part/vehicle-selection
That's about $160.00 at Rock Auto.
Denso is probably the OEM supplier.
Do you have scanner/code reader? If not, I do not believe you are serious about fixing this yourself. The cheapest one is about $20 and if you have android platform, it is even cheaper. You have zero excuse for not knowing exactly what the code is or not knowing the freeze frame data. If people are still wondering about primary or secondary O2 sensor, it means you have not provided the actual code in this discussion.
Bottom line:- Are you really want to fight for this or not?
sze, have you spoken with the service manager? I know you spoke with 'someone' at the dealership, but unless you speak to the actual service department manager then you may be wasting your time at the dealership.
Keep in mind that I have never encountered a dealership service department not willing to perform warranty work. Its easy money for them as they aren't charging the customer for business they need. If the situation lies in a gray area then the sales manager can engage the regional manager and see if it can be comp'd as 'doing the right thing'.
I had a steering rack fail on a 2001 Tundra less than 10K outside of the 36K mile warranty. Steering racks are not powertrain. It was a rare instance that would have cost me $600 in 2004 for a rebuilt one put in with no warranty by a local garage, or $1300 by the dealership which came with the 12-month/12K warranty.
The sales manager spoke with the regional and met me half way and it cost me $550. While the steering rack that is in the truck has worked flawlessly ever since (put another 100K miles on it since), it was an unusual issue. Sales managers can be your friend, or just be representative of a dickhead dealership.
BTW, the first time an O2 sensor failed on my Tundra it was under warranty. But they couldn't get the pre-cat fucker out of the exhaust manifold. They replaced the sensor and manifold on the manufacture's dime. LOL I late learned the sensor, made by someone other than Toyota, had a design fault and a nation-wide recall took place.
Ask to speak to the service department's service manager and ask him to engage the regional manager on your behalf. Be polite, but also tell them at this point you are not likely to buy Mitsu again and would be more likely, upon a negative result, to bad mouth Mitsu in your day to day affairs with the general public.
Weird...either the light is a false alarm or I don't know what happened. I never noticed my mpg go lower or any weird behaviour. I guess I'll wait it out. This gives me time hopefully to finish my dental work and take care of my medical bills assuming the light or the same code does not come back.
Very strange, I've never had a check engine light that spit out an actual code go away on its own.
Unless your CEL bulb burnt out. Ask me how I know.
This is where you go and spend the $20 to get your own code reader / scanner. Then you will not be wondering if the code has gone away or still dormant. You will also be in a position to see if the ECM has completed all the tests successfully or if there any pending tests. If you spend little bit more, you can even look at the completed tests and margins they had for successful completion.
I mean when you resist spending $20 to get the ability to do this but keep on asking questions here and would rather go to to Autozone and ask to scan code, I don't get the feeling that you are serious about finding or fixing this.
Generally, why do people refuse to have their own cheap reader/scanner?
Well the light came back on again. I must have a loose wire or something. I'm not noticing any lower mpg and it's the same code again. I'll have to order the part and find time and some stands to put it on or have a mechanic do it. So odd that it went away by itself then after a couple of days after I changed my battery for a fresh one, it came back.
Very strange, I've never had a check engine light that spit out an actual code go away on its own.
I tried using the regular Jack for tires that came with the car but I couldn't get under well enough to mess with the sensor. I figure I'll buy the sensor for $160 and have my mechanic put it in. Dunno why those guys don't order from rock auto. No idea why they said the sensor isn't available anywhere but the dealer and costs $400 bucks. Pretty ridiculous for something like this.