insurance claim

[lundrog]

My son had a snow globe fall onto his PC while I was on a business trip. crash! and it shattered. Of course it was a fractal design r2, with two top fan slots open... and the water like substance ran down onto the video card

He was running a Intel 3770K, asrock extreme 4 motherboard, 2x 8GB Crutial Ballistix sport memory, and a EVGA 680 Classified, of course with a ten year warrenty and RMA on the video card.. A antech 620 AIO water block cooler. A PC Power and Cooling 920 PSU.


So back to the question. I could use a second opinion on replacement gear. The only piece of hardware I could get working at this point was the ssd he had in it, the rest is toast, doesn't power on completely and I don't want to risk a existing system testing components.


In a insurance claim do you just fine the replacement models for each and make a list? has anyone else had to deal with this?


Since Intel changed up the CPU's a bit this time, at the time it was on the top of the current i7 lineup, so what would replace it via model number? Or do you replace it via original value?

 

[UsandThem]

This would be a question to ask your insurance company, as policies are different.

I personally couldn't imagine filing a claim on homeowner's or renter's policy over a sub-$1000 computer, which you most likely pay a deductible and which will increase the cost of your policy.

EVGA 680 Classified, of course with a ten yearwarrenty and RMA on the video card

Did you really RMA the video card after water damage? If so, that's a pretty dishonest thing to do as manufacturer's warranties don't cover damage caused by accidents, water, or other types of physical damage.

 

[corkyg]

In my experience, insurance depends on what the policy covers. Normally the payout is based on value of the insured items, possibly less depreciation. What you buy with the money is not their concern. Best to spend some minutes reading the policy terms. They can all be different.

 

[lundrog]

This would be a question to ask your insurance company, as policies are different.

I personally couldn't imagine filing a claim on homeowner's or renter's policy over a sub-$1000 computer, which you most likely pay a deductible and which will increase the cost of your policy.



Did you really RMA the video card after water damage? If so, that's a pretty dishonest thing to do as manufacturer's warranties don't cover damage caused by accidents, water, or other types of physical damage.

No, I was indicating I had prepaid for the 10 year warranty and advanced RMA.. for nothing... as it's void with water damage.

 

[lundrog]

In my experience, insurance depends on what the policy covers. Normally the payout is based on value of the insured items, possibly less depreciation. What you buy with the money is not their concern. Best to spend some minutes reading the policy terms. They can all be different.

agreed, my wife is working on the policy end. I'm trying to find current replacements's for things like the 3770k and 680 classified.

 

[UsandThem]

No, I was indicating I had prepaid for the 10 year warranty and advanced RMA.. for nothing... as it's void with water damage.

Gotcha. Thumbs up for honesty.

 

[VirtualLarry]

I sweated into my quad-GPU rig, an Antec 300, with a blow-hole, while I was setting it up at another location. It was just a few drops, but it wouldn't turn on for a week or so. Thankfully, it turned out OK.

I can imaging dropping quite a bit of water-like substance into the top of the PC while it was on, may have done more permanent damage than what happened to myself.

Best of luck. I don't know that I would invoke the insurance policy for a sub-$1000 PC either. Just save up, and get another one.

 

[corkyg]

BTW, I think the clear liquid in a snow globe is glycerine based.

 

[ChuckFx]

My son had a snow globe fall onto his PC while I was on a business trip. crash! and it shattered. Of course it was a fractal design r2, with two top fan slots open... and the water like substance ran down onto the video card

He was running a Intel 3770K, asrock extreme 4 motherboard, 2x 8GB Crutial Ballistix sport memory, and a EVGA 680 Classified, of course with a ten year warrenty and RMA on the video card.. A antech 620 AIO water block cooler. A PC Power and Cooling 920 PSU.


So back to the question. I could use a second opinion on replacement gear. The only piece of hardware I could get working at this point was the ssd he had in it, the rest is toast, doesn't power on completely and I don't want to risk a existing system testing components.


In a insurance claim do you just fine the replacement models for each and make a list? has anyone else had to deal with this?


Since Intel changed up the CPU's a bit this time, at the time it was on the top of the current i7 lineup, so what would replace it via model number? Or do you replace it via original value?

Depending on your policy you may get the Replacement cost of the material or a Devaluated cost (based on the age of the components). I would not necessarily recommend claiming for such a low amount. You must have a deductible around 500$ to pay before they give you any money first of all.

Second thing to consider is the long term increase this will produce on your insurance policy. The amount you claim will pe given back to them or more in the next few years.

This is general information, some countries may work differently.

I worked as an insurance consultant for awhile, in Canada.

 

[Insomniator]

This... is not an insurance claim. Buy a new PC or tell him to save up.

 

[Bardock]

My homeowners has clauses for what it calls gross negligence, where they don't have to pay. If my house burns down in a fire, I get a check. If I was burning a fire right next to the house, no check.

 

[NeoPTLD]

The damage depends on how long it was left plugged in and what measures you took before you attempted to power up again.

It might be too late by now but you have nothing to lose by taking it apart and giving everything a bath in warm water with a bit of dish soap.Remove the coin battery first. You'll have to soak and swish around until you get all the crap off. Rinse in plain warm water a few times and final rinse with distilled water. Shake out water the best you can and bake it out at about 180F. shake out after an hour or so to remove partially displaced water and continue baking out. After 4-5 hours, it should be completely dry. Pop in a new battery, clear CMOS and bench test on a piece of wood Corrupt CMOS can do all sorts of weird things so don't skip that.