Intel "Coffee Lake" Builders Thread

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ozzy702

Golden Member
Nov 1, 2011
1,151
530
136
Thank you- what thermals should I use as guidelines, ie prime 95? Under 90c ok or is that still too high?

I personally pushed my OC to the point where Prime95 under avx got cores into the low to mid 80s. Under normal "heavy" use, gaming, it's mostly in the 50's and occasionally spikes into the low 60s. I don't like pushing my hardware hard but that also means I'm limited to around 4.8ghz.
 
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TahoeDust

Senior member
Nov 29, 2011
557
404
136
I personally pushed my OC to the point where Prime95 under avx got cores into the low to mid 80s. Under normal "heavy" use, gaming, it's mostly in the 50's and occasionally spikes into the low 60s. I don't like pushing my hardware hard but that also means I'm limited to around 4.8ghz.
Do you use any AVX offset? If not, you may be able to bump that OC to 5GHz with a -2 AVX offset. If you are cooling 4.8GHz with AVX, you may be able to cool 5GHz without. You can use Prime95 v26.6 to test your non-AVX temps.
 

ozzy702

Golden Member
Nov 1, 2011
1,151
530
136
Do you use any AVX offset? If not, you may be able to bump that OC to 5GHz with a -2 AVX offset. If you are cooling 4.8GHz with AVX, you may be able to cool 5GHz without. You can use Prime95 v26.6 to test your non-AVX temps.

So, I benched at 4.8ghz with AVX and after finding stability popped on a -2 AVX offset. You're probably correct on being able to pull a higher OC but I've never been one to be pushing my hardware. I'm more concerned with 100% stability long term (even after degradation) and my hardware lasting well past it's warranty since I usually sell it to friends or family at a nice discount.
 
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TahoeDust

Senior member
Nov 29, 2011
557
404
136
So, I benched at 4.8ghz with AVX and after finding stability popped on a -2 AVX offset. You're probably correct on being able to pull a higher OC but I've never been one to be pushing my hardware. I'm more concerned with 100% stability long term (even after degradation) and my hardware lasting well past it's warranty since I usually sell it to friends or family at a nice discount.
I'm all about 100% stability and long term use. I'm just saying don't let the fact you are hitting a thermal wall because of AVX instructions keep you from turning up the base clock. For instance, my temps are roughly the same 4.8GHz w/o AVX and 4.3GHz w/AVX. Hence I run a 48 multi with a -5 AVX offset. If I would have stopped my overclock at 4.3GHz because of thermals and not used an AVX offset, I would have been leaving a lot of performance on the table.

Prime95 4.8GHz w/o AVX...


Prime95 same OC w/ AVX...
 
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DrMrLordX

Lifer
Apr 27, 2000
21,842
11,199
136
Voltage is down but operating frequency has gone up by more than 50%.

DDR-400 worked at 200Mhz, and so did DDR2-800 and DDR3-1600 and... so does DDR4-1600. But now DDR4-3200 works at 400Mhz, and newer kits are pushing over DDR4-4000 which is 500Mhz. The faster kits are going for 1.4V too.

Corsair is still able to bin kits well above 4000 MHz equivalent using low-profile heatsinks. DDR4 just doesn't run that hot. The large RAMsinks are just epeen, which is pathetic given how they reduce compatibility with high-end air coolers.
 

coercitiv

Diamond Member
Jan 24, 2014
6,456
13,095
136
Corsair is still able to bin kits well above 4000 MHz equivalent using low-profile heatsinks. DDR4 just doesn't run that hot. The large RAMsinks are just epeen, which is pathetic given how they reduce compatibility with high-end air coolers.
The same was true about DDR3 2400, it was fine low-profile. Then again, I wasn't advocating tall heat sinks on DDR4, but rather pointing out that the increase in frequency eats some of the power savings, maybe even all of them as we approach the XMP voltage limit. Corsair's latest 4600Mhz kits require 1.5V, and while they too use low-profile heatsinks, I think we can safely agree they use considerably more power than 3200Mhz 1.35V kits (considering chips made on the same process, say all Samsung B-dies).
 

DrMrLordX

Lifer
Apr 27, 2000
21,842
11,199
136
I would like to see the power usage numbers on those high-end kits. I'm sure it is higher, by quite a bit. On a side note, it's about damn time we saw some desktop RAM clocked higher than 200-300 MHz!
 
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rondocap

Member
Nov 6, 2017
30
4
16
How do you get CPUz to show the full Vcore, and not half of it?

Going from an H60 single fan, to an H70 with push/pull fans yeilded me about 7 degrees less or so at 4.9ghz and 1.31v.
 

fastamdman

Golden Member
Nov 18, 2011
1,335
70
91
Nice build @AdamK47 Is it just me or is that a 360mm radiator? What AIO unit is that? I was debating upgrading from my current nzxt kraken x61 which is a 240.
 

fastamdman

Golden Member
Nov 18, 2011
1,335
70
91
@AdamK47 I've got the corsair 900D I think I could fit it in the top, front, or the 2 bottom bays just fine haha. I just want something better than my kraken x61, but I don't want to jump into the custom game yet as its a little over my budget currently.
 

dbrons

Member
May 28, 2001
160
14
81
I'm done with my build too. It had a few complications - one was that the mounting holes for the 280 mm radiator on the front of my define r5 dont line up. I was able to attach two screws at the bottom and two in the middle but then the top two were off by 3/16ths or so. Actually felt pretty solid that way so I ended up going with it like that just sealed off a tiny gap at the top.

the other tough thing was getting adapters to work for my two 8tb drives to fit in the optical bays. more drilling .

Anyway all done, drives formatted windows and office installed.
 
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Aikouka

Lifer
Nov 27, 2001
30,383
912
126
So, I found an interesting... and potential issue with my ASRock Professional Gaming I7 board. It's hard to know for sure if this was the issue, but it all started when I was playing an FPS, and I noticed that I just wasn't performing well. I checked and rechecked to make sure that my settings were correct on the mouse (DPI options and current setting), in the game (sensitivity multiplier) and in Windows (the cursor speed). Nothing was different from my Skylake build, but to make sure, I copied over my settings for the game.

Later on, I was looking at photos on the web, and I kept noticing that I would skip a photo randomly when clicking on the next button. That seemed a bit weird, but it really stuck out to me when I went to select a file, and all of a sudden the file opened. A that point, I realized that I was getting accidental double clicks when I was most assuredly single clicking. I did a little research, and I found a note from Logitech about another one of their mice stating that if there are issues with unintended double clicks to make sure you're using USB 2 instead of USB 3. So, I moved it from the mouse port to a USB 2 port that I added. The motherboard itself doesn't really have many USB 2 ports, so I had to put in one of those old-fashioned add-ins that goes in the expansion port and just connects to a header. (Although, the plastic shielding on the motherboard did make it not install properly.)

After making the change, I did notice considerable changes in my overall accuracy and the accidental double clicks were gone. I can't remember with 100% certainty which port the mouse used on my old desktop, but the Skylake PC uses a Maximus IX Hero, which has 4 USB 2 ports on the back and I tend to plug in mice and keyboards into USB 2 simply because they don't need the extra speed. To be fair, I can't say that the USB 2 change might have been the only possible reason. I use a Logitech G903, which is a wireless mouse. Logitech gives you an adapter to let you plug in the sensor to the charging cable, but you can also disconnect the sensor and hook the charging cable directly to the mouse for data + charging. I'm pretty sure I charged the mouse and swapped back to wireless at the start of the session where I noticed the weird mouse behavior. Although, that wasn't my first time doing that, and I've done that on the Skylake system too.

So, in short, I would consider avoiding the mouse port on the ASRock Professional Gaming I7 board. It might be problematic, so it's probably more worthwhile to just stick with USB 2.
 

dbrons

Member
May 28, 2001
160
14
81
OK a little more progress. I looked up in my manual and learned where to find the XMP profile, I selected it and restarted and my Gskill Trident Z is now running at it's rated 3600 speed I havent tried any other overclocking yet I need to make sure I know what I'm doing. I'd be grateful for any advice.

One other thing, my system is pretty much silent. Even if I take the side panel off I cant hear it. Those Vardar 140 mm fans on my H115 are awesome!. I was going to replace the two Fractal 140mm case fans with Noiseblockers but I don't think I'll need to.

I'm really psyched. the way this is going. I got this dock that runs on USB 3.1 gen 2 and I will hook that up to the back panel and I'l be able to work on my other hard drives that have my video and audio collections.

Dave
 

stockwiz

Senior member
Sep 8, 2013
403
15
81
Stable here at 4.9. Load level calibration is at "level 2" and voltage offset is at -.08 volts. Given I want this rig to last 6 years I'm perfectly happy around here... 4.9 for 24/7 use though at some point I'll try for 5.0 as 1.225 volts at load is still pretty low. Seems I got a decent enough clocking chip.

Volts @ 4.9 but fairly idle:
VID: 1.375V
Bios Reported: 1.215V
Multi-Meter reading: 1.245V

Volts running RealBench:
VID: 1.35V
Bios reported: 1.187V
Multi-meter reading: 1.225V

All stable so far.


 
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psolord

Platinum Member
Sep 16, 2009
2,031
1,225
136
A little higher image resolution please.

1.18 for 4.9Ghz is crazy. Is that a 8700k or a 8600k?

I have stopped at +50mV, level 1, for my 8600k@5Ghz. My gaming benchmarking temps are excellent, so no need for more fine tuning for now.
 

stockwiz

Senior member
Sep 8, 2013
403
15
81
A little higher image resolution please.

1.18 for 4.9Ghz is crazy. Is that a 8700k or a 8600k?

I have stopped at +50mV, level 1, for my 8600k@5Ghz. My gaming benchmarking temps are excellent, so no need for more fine tuning for now.
I used a multimeter this morning. It shows 1.225 volts when running Realbench at 4.9 GHZ so I edited my post. Still not bad.

I may keep it here, I may go to 5.0. I want this thing to last 5+ years.

Moral of the story: If you don't have a multi-meter, you don't have a real reading.

Nice jump from a 2600K running 4.5. That one's going to my nephew for Christmas.
 
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