JCH13 Garage Workshop Rework

JCH13

Diamond Member
Sep 14, 2010
4,981
66
91
I have been quite busy the last month or so working with a friend of mine to make the workshop above my garage a usable, non-squirrel-infested, space. The guy who built it didn't have any comprehension of flashing or rodent-proofing a structure. Squirrels had basically been shredding everything inside the 2nd floor of my garage for many years before I bought it about a year and a half ago.

Before: super-thin vapor barrier was sagging all over the place, and failed in some. Insulation is filled with dust and smoke from being poorly sealed. Squirrel piss stains are visible on the ceiling vapor barrier and a few spots on the walls... very gross. The floor was so dirty it looked white/gray.

Also note: no overhead lights, or lights of any kind. A space with great potential, but terrible execution.





We suited up with those head-to-toe disposable suits, elbow-length rubber gloves, and respirators to rip everything out. And I mean everything. Squirrels are the devil's pets, they burrow everywhere, shit everywhere, and piss everywhere. They even die everywhere. I removed 5 squirrels in varying states of decomposition. Ripping down the ceiling vapor barrier sounded and looked like... someone taking a bucket of jimmy's and hurling it across the floor. I almost threw up in my respirator. We filled about 32 contractor bags with mostly insulation. Pissy, shitty, insulation.

They don't make water hot enough.

Everything ripped out and cleaned up. Also note the six overhead lights (there is also a pull-cord light in the attic you can't see). Hooray light!



Repaired soffet vents and the first insulation batt.



A lot of the insulation in.



The last of the vapor barrier going in. I used all 6mil vapor barrier on the leaning walls and the ceiling. Its remarkably strong. The end-walls got 3.5mil because they won't support any load.



Many, many late nights were worked. It took a lot longer than I thought it would, but there were a lot of details to work through. I also had to re-do some wiring to the addition on the side of my garage. Apparently the guy who built it had no idea what a wire staple was, and he also thought it was okay to wire in a new circuit by putting a 110v plug on the end of a house wire and plugging it into an outlet. Genius!



Finally, with all the vapor barrier done and stuff being moved in.



Drywall to come in the future, not sure when. A lot of work to get to this point, but having dry, insulated, clean space to move the heavier machines into is phenomenal.

I did get a new toy, one that prompted me to take on this project. More on that later though...
 
Last edited:

Kaido

Elite Member & Kitchen Overlord
Feb 14, 2004
48,518
5,340
136
Wow, that is shaping up great!

I hear you on the rodent issue. I used to work in my buddy's garage a lot and he had a never-ending raccoon problem. I think eventually he just gave up and would leave out food on the other side of the garage for them
 

JCH13

Diamond Member
Sep 14, 2010
4,981
66
91
Thanks!

Aside from buttoning up all the openings I found (aluminum flashing and anti-rodent great-stuff) I also laced the soffit vents with poison and will lace the attic with poison and probably traps.

This is war.
 

FuzzyDunlop

Diamond Member
Jan 30, 2008
3,261
12
81
It looks all warm and cozy. Needs a couch.
The floor in there didnt look too bad but I can understand the reason for covering it (easier to clean, easier to see things dropped).
 

JCH13

Diamond Member
Sep 14, 2010
4,981
66
91
It looks all warm and cozy. Needs a couch.
The floor in there didnt look too bad but I can understand the reason for covering it (easier to clean, easier to see things dropped).

I'll have to haul up the couch from the garage... :biggrin:

The floor was fairly terrible, the pictures don't show it well. I used 2 coats of stain-blocking primer (triple or more on some bad stains) and then two coats of paint, and some stains still came through. I also used a scraper and sander to lift up globs of paint, epoxy, and newspaper that was painted and epoxied to the floor. Like you say it makes it easier to clean and see things, but it also seals up the floor from water/oil, reflects light around, and helps stop splintering.
 

franksta

Golden Member
Jun 6, 2001
1,967
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81
Do I even want to know what the PVC piping was for? Are the stairs outside of the sliding door?
 

Zargon

Lifer
Nov 3, 2009
12,240
2
76
very nice work man


kinda surprised you didn't save the 'attic' to the attic for storage but probably a way bigger PITA to do the insulation ETC
 

JCH13

Diamond Member
Sep 14, 2010
4,981
66
91
Do I even want to know what the PVC piping was for? Are the stairs outside of the sliding door?

The plastic pipes were for a hacked together shop vac system the PO had in there. Pretty sure I found more squirrel shit in there too...

No stairs by the sliding door (not exactly up to code) just a metal roof. I think I'm going to put some sort of removable guard rail over the sliding door, and the bay doors at the other end.
 

deadken

Diamond Member
Aug 8, 2004
3,193
2
81
Nice job. I can't imagine not putting up sheetrock right away (unless money is an issue). Can I ask why you didn't go with Fluorescent lighting? Given the room dimensions, my brain is going towards 4' or even 8' lighting.
 

Meghan54

Lifer
Oct 18, 2009
11,573
5,096
136
I used 2 coats of stain-blocking primer (triple or more on some bad stains)



Nice work! May I ask what brand of primer you used? Hope it wasn't Killz---that stuff may as well be water. Found that out the hard way when we were rehabbing the dog boarding kennel 4 years ago that my wife's father owned. Started out with Killz, made the move to Zinsser and never looked back. (Used both 1-2-3 and B-I-N, depending on surface.)
 

JCH13

Diamond Member
Sep 14, 2010
4,981
66
91
Nice job. I can't imagine not putting up sheetrock right away (unless money is an issue). Can I ask why you didn't go with Fluorescent lighting? Given the room dimensions, my brain is going towards 4' or even 8' lighting.

Yeah... I had a budget for the project... and then blew right through it when It turned out that 2' wide insulation rolls are stupidly expensive per ft^2. To do it again I would do blown-in insulation everywhere... $0.22/ft^2 vs $0.65/ft^2. And re-wiring... and building a block-and-tackle hoist...and... x.x

Drywall might happen in the spring, or after my wedding/honeymoon next summer. That is a fantastic way to deplete fun-money.

Fluorescent lighting fixtures are relatively expensive, less efficient than LEDs, and don't do so well in the cold. So, I did the six LED overhead lights (it was <$2/fixture+can, $5/bulb after rebate) for primary lighting, and I have four 4' fluorescent 2xT8 fixtures with cold-start circuitry for 'task lighting'. I plan on hanging one over each work bench and the chop saw for now. The bandsaw has it's own LED light right above the deck.

Nice work! May I ask what brand of primer you used? Hope it wasn't Killz---that stuff may as well be water. Found that out the hard way when we were rehabbing the dog boarding kennel 4 years ago that my wife's father owned. Started out with Killz, made the move to Zinsser and never looked back. (Used both 1-2-3 and B-I-N, depending on surface.)

I believe I used Zinsser. It did block a lot of stains, but not all of them!
 

JCH13

Diamond Member
Sep 14, 2010
4,981
66
91
That looks sweet! Love to see more videos of it. It looked like you were trying to melt a hole in the plastic.

Thanks! I just sorted out some feed/speed/ramping issues last night, and routed my first aluminum part. I'll try to get a decent video of routing some real parts out of metal in the next day or two.

Hopefully I will get a vacuum mounted to it in the next day or two as well... there are metal and plastic chips f*cking everywhere right now.
 

Kaido

Elite Member & Kitchen Overlord
Feb 14, 2004
48,518
5,340
136
Thanks! I just sorted out some feed/speed/ramping issues last night, and routed my first aluminum part. I'll try to get a decent video of routing some real parts out of metal in the next day or two.

Hopefully I will get a vacuum mounted to it in the next day or two as well...

Waaaaaaaaait a minute, how the heck did I miss the CNC router post?! Let us know if you're ever up for taking CNC jobs! I hate cutting holes in my speaker cabinet projects :biggrin:
 

JCH13

Diamond Member
Sep 14, 2010
4,981
66
91
Waaaaaaaaait a minute, how the heck did I miss the CNC router post?! Let us know if you're ever up for taking CNC jobs! I hate cutting holes in my speaker cabinet projects :biggrin:

I will be, shortly, after I get a few other things sorted out (tuning ramping and feed rates, sorting out a vacuum system, etc) and get fuzzy's engine mounts welded together. Which is a long-winded way of saying "I am, but it'll take some time." I could take a napkin sketch and deliver finished parts, presuming I can make everything.

It's a 4'x4' table, x-y tolerances and repeat-ability seem to be very good, but Z is less reliable due to the deck not being precisely level, it was originally designed as a CNC Plasma table after all. Consider it 2D routing if any close precision is desired over more than a few inches. I have played with some contouring though, and it works okay over a small area.
 
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