Ordered a new oil pressure sender. The old one that had worked in the old block was 1/8-27 NPT thread (standard), whereas the block is 1/8-28 BPT thread. So the old sender's threads were totally borked. I used a cheapie switch sender that was lying around just to see if anything was totally blown, and to get it back on the road when I did the engine swap, but now it's time to redo it right!
Got a VDO sender, 0-80PSI with 10-180ohm range to use with a 1/8-28BPT to 1/8-27NPT adapter.
At first I was really frustrated with the KnockSense, I couldn't get it to not give false indications without sacrificing a ton of sensitivity at lower RPMs. But after adding in an attenuation 100k POT (cranked all the way to 100k, so you could use a resistor) I did the normal procedure: adjust the main dial until it triggers at idle, then crank it 15-20deg back. No false indications through the entire rev range at idle, winning. I am also interested in how much spark tuning I can do with it, safely. I already advanced the cruise cells by 4-5deg with no negative effects. Lower RPM/higher load is next, to help spool like you say.
Idle fluctuates a little bit, but not much. Setting the minimum spark column to 1,000rpm helped a bit it seems. Keeping just a few cells in one column that cover all idle rpms keeps this basically constant, and freed up some resolution for actual operating ranges, which was also nice.
No autox at Fort Devans, it's over 2hrs away. When I autox I go with SCCNH at New Hampshire Motor Speedway (parking lot, anyway) which is around 1:10 away.
Got a VDO sender, 0-80PSI with 10-180ohm range to use with a 1/8-28BPT to 1/8-27NPT adapter.
At first I was really frustrated with the KnockSense, I couldn't get it to not give false indications without sacrificing a ton of sensitivity at lower RPMs. But after adding in an attenuation 100k POT (cranked all the way to 100k, so you could use a resistor) I did the normal procedure: adjust the main dial until it triggers at idle, then crank it 15-20deg back. No false indications through the entire rev range at idle, winning. I am also interested in how much spark tuning I can do with it, safely. I already advanced the cruise cells by 4-5deg with no negative effects. Lower RPM/higher load is next, to help spool like you say.
Idle fluctuates a little bit, but not much. Setting the minimum spark column to 1,000rpm helped a bit it seems. Keeping just a few cells in one column that cover all idle rpms keeps this basically constant, and freed up some resolution for actual operating ranges, which was also nice.
No autox at Fort Devans, it's over 2hrs away. When I autox I go with SCCNH at New Hampshire Motor Speedway (parking lot, anyway) which is around 1:10 away.