JCH13 - Turbo Miata Rehab Thread

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JCH13

Diamond Member
Sep 14, 2010
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UPS got their heads out of their asses and delivered the rest of the parts I had ordered.



Started some assembly on the new rear sub-frame setup. Going together nicely so far.



Exhausted, called it an early night.
 

PseudoSport

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Apr 19, 2011
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soooooo... whats your opinion on the color scheme...


I liked it more when it was all red with black suspension. With the gray wheels, hardtop, and recalculated BOV the car didn’t draw any attention. I’m a fan of subtle mods and sleepers but every now and then it was fun to sticker the car up and go racing.

I also understand the whole “Because Racecar” thing and the need to build something different. I’m sure not everyone likes our Turbo Jeep.
 

JCH13

Diamond Member
Sep 14, 2010
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I really like the sleeper qualities of my MazdaSpeed3. Outwardly it just looks like any other schmo hatchback, almost no one has a clue until the pedal goes down. Sleeper cars are definitely awesome.

Clearly I went the other direction with this Miata, which has lead to an entirely different type of awesome. Driving around town I can hear (over the exhaust) little kids yelling "oh my god mom! Look at that car!" I enjoy watching other drivers mouth "WTF" as I drive by. It sparks endless conversations with random car people routinely, which I find quite enjoyable. Especially when they say "yeah, it handles well, but it's too slow" and then I pop the hood... :awe:
 

JCH13

Diamond Member
Sep 14, 2010
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Another shot at a de-rusting technology. This time, Evaporust, that I got at Autozone after reading nothing but praise for it's performance on the interwebz. After testing it out on a small subframe brace with great results. However, I was dumb, and didn't take any pictures.

So here's the setup my roommate and I came up with for submerging the front LCAs in a minimum amount of Evaporust ($23/gallon). I had buzzed off excess rust with a needle descaler and degreased them with Simple Green and a pressure washer.

We got the tray and sand at HomeDepot for less than $30 and used 5mil plastic from a cut-up mattress bag.


Here you can see most of the LCA is submerged. We used a shop rag to wick evaporust up ontoTthe shock and sway bar brackets.


I wound up using 1 gallon for each sway bar. Note that Evaporust is reusable for at least 1year after opening and will work until it's pitch-black in color. It is non-toxic, has no smell to it, and does not hard un-oxidized steel or paint. It seems to really be all it's cracked up to be, I've been quite impressed so far.

Will make a bigger update tonight when I take more pictures.
 

jlee

Lifer
Sep 12, 2001
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Really works? Hmm, I may have to give it a shot for everything that goes back on my car.
 

JCH13

Diamond Member
Sep 14, 2010
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Really works? Hmm, I may have to give it a shot for everything that goes back on my car.

Yar. AutoZone actually had the best price on it too... better the Prime and better than the maker's website+shipping. Get a gallon or a quart and try it out on some hand tools.

Evaporust has a tough time removing thick rust scale, but that's easy to take off with a chisel or a needle de-scaler... (go figure)
 

JCH13

Diamond Member
Sep 14, 2010
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Just ordered another pile of parts:

New brake rotors
New e-brake cables
Wheel bearing seals
Rear caliper bleeder screw

Loving AutoZone's 20%+free shipping deals. Makes all of these parts considerably less expensive than going anywhere else.
 

phucheneh

Diamond Member
Jun 30, 2012
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That seems like an awful lot of trouble to go through to strip control arms. Stuff like that, I normally just wire-wheel with an angle grinder.

Are you trying to get rust out of the inside, where a tool can't reach? If so, the question becomes...how do you get paint back in there?
 

JCH13

Diamond Member
Sep 14, 2010
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That seems like an awful lot of trouble to go through to strip control arms. Stuff like that, I normally just wire-wheel with an angle grinder.

Are you trying to get rust out of the inside, where a tool can't reach? If so, the question becomes...how do you get paint back in there?

It is to get rust out of the inside. I'm not planning on painting the inside, but rather using a rust inhibitor (Boeshield) to seal up the inside surfaces.

It's not an awful lot of trouble either... I just play with sand to shape it right for a few minutes and then leave it overnight. Then just pull them out, wipe them down, and let them dry. Maybe 5-10 minutes of effort per arm. Though a quick shot with a wire-wheel does put a nice finishing touch on it. Evaporust leaves a good surface for rust-bullet though. The sand was super-easy to reshape for the upper a-arms tonight, which was nice.

My roomate wire-brushed one to try out some new wire wheels I got.


Pulled the front calipers.



The cleaned and painted them.



Replaced the fuel-filter bracket.



Regreased and put new boots on the upper control arm ball joints. The boots have a metal ring in the bottom that I tapped onto the ball joint with a brass drift. That brass drift and a ~1/2in copper drift are turning out to be immensely useful.



Also:
Drained transmission oil.
Removed all of the bolts connecting the transmission to the engine, ready to pull the transmission soon!
Re-greased one of the rear calipers. Going to need to strip the old paint off before painting it black.
Painted the rear sub-frame brace.

Still so much left to do...
 
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PseudoSport

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Apr 19, 2011
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Have you tried Muriatic acid? You can pick up a gallon at Home Depot for about $7. Just make sure you dilute it with water since its pretty aggressive. Down side is metal will flash rust pretty quick if its not cleaned or neutralized after.

Phosphoric acid (which i'm guessing Evaporust is) is less aggressive but will leave a phosphate coating that prevents flash rust and is a great base for paint. You should be able to find a gallon for half the cost of Evaporust.

I've used both acids to clean a gas tank and some other parts.
 

JCH13

Diamond Member
Sep 14, 2010
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I haven't tried any acids... yet. Evaporust isn't any sort of acid, it works through 'selective chleation' which I believe means that it's got a compound that only bonds with iron oxide molecules and nothing else. The innocuous nature of Evaporust was one of the most compelling reasons to get it in my opinion.

Last night I dropped the transmission and replaced the clutch/flywheel. The experiment of using an OE clutch/pressure plate was a total failure. Oh well, at this point I could probably do a clutch job in 4 hours or so...
 

PseudoSport

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I’m guessing the OE setup would slip at anything over 7 psi. What did you end up installing for a clutch? Did you go back to a 1.6L setup or stay with the 1.8L?
 

JCH13

Diamond Member
Sep 14, 2010
4,981
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I’m guessing the OE setup would slip at anything over 7 psi. What did you end up installing for a clutch? Did you go back to a 1.6L setup or stay with the 1.8L?

I had an OE 1.6L stock clutch from a used driveline I bought, tried that in the hopes that it could hold some boost (10psi I was hoping for) and make it a little smoother. Well, it couldn't even hold near wastegate (8-9psi). So it's back to the 6-puck setup!
 

JCH13

Diamond Member
Sep 14, 2010
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Tried cleaning on the transmission and differential... might take a LOT more elbow grease. The cold weather isn't helping either.

Did get some more suspension parts de-rusted and got on a first coat of rust bullet.

 

JCH13

Diamond Member
Sep 14, 2010
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Those look cleaaaan. Vry nice. Seems like a lot of effort though. Totally worth it?

Thanks! Rust Bullet goes on thick and covers a lot of surface imperfections very well. Not what I'd call a "lot" of effort, but more than trivial. I would estimate about 1-1.5hr of labor per suspension component I de-rust, de-grease, paint w/ two coats of rust bullet and then spray paint w/ two coats of color. Getting a bunch of parts together and working in large batches with a good order of operations helps things go quite efficiently. Definitely worth it, a set of new control arms runs close to $2k, used is around $700-1k.
 
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JCH13

Diamond Member
Sep 14, 2010
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Finished de-rusting and painting all of the front control arms, uprights, and new rod ends. All of the Energy Suspension poly bushings I bought in 2011 are finally installed! Also the front brake calipers are painted and back together.

Pro-tip: when installing poly bushings greased and installed the plastic bits first, then grease and install the metal inserts. With this assembly order you can press them in basically by hand.



My garage is a total wreck.

 
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JCH13

Diamond Member
Sep 14, 2010
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Not a whole lot of progress last night. I cut the driver's side e-brake cable to get the caliper off. I started digging through the caliper, taking it apart, etc. It became apparent that there was a lot of corrosion inside the various mechanisms of the rear calipers. The Miata has a lot of extra mechanism in there to handle the e-brakes, annoyingly. One or two slide boots were just totally missing too. I'm just going to bite the bullet and get two new rear calipers, then I'll have basically an entirely refreshed braking system.

I also installed new axle seals on the rear uprights. I figured I would write up a short how-to based on my experience with this install and other installs I've done.

I split the fresh coat of paint with a razor around the edge of the axle seal.

Then I tapped a screwdriver sideways under the shoulder of the seal. This particular screw driver I have filed a little sharper just for odd jobs like this.



Then twist the screw driver to pop the seal out. Some times you need to walk to screw driver around a little and pry from a few different spots.



Clean off the seal surfaces, wire brushes and scrapers work well.

Put a thin layer of grease on the new seal to help with install and to keep the rubberized coating from tearing.



Line up the seal and use a clamp to LIGHTLY and CAREFULLY hold one side of the seal in place. The clamp does not have to be tight, just enough pressure to keep it from slipping off is enough.



To tap the seal in I used a rounded chisel about 3/4in wide. Having a rounded chisel has been quite handy for random tasks like this.



Start on one side next to the clamp and lightly tap around going in one direction. Don't jump around or try to start tapping in the seal from both sides of the clamp, the seal will usually just pop out where you're not tapping.



Once the seal has started to engage around it's entire circumference you can take the clamp off and finish tapping it in.
 
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JCH13

Diamond Member
Sep 14, 2010
4,981
66
91
Finished up some painting. The aluminum part of the diff pumpkin refused to be de-greased in any reasonable way, so it will stay aluminum for the time being.







Installed a hood gasket. Turns out these are very important for controlling air flow through the engine compartment.



Got one corner's links and upright attached.



Probably won't be doing much for about a week or so. Other obligations to take care of, sadly.
 

Phanuel

Platinum Member
Apr 25, 2008
2,304
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Alright, so where's the snail the size of a 3 year old that you're going to cram under that hood?
 
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