Kitchen Design ... doing a remodel (now with pics!)

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Sep 29, 2004
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Sort of calm now ... I'll take a look at stealing some real estate ffrom the larger upstairs bedroom to do the laundry thing up there. It might start looki9ng cramped that way.
 

MooseKnuckle

Golden Member
Oct 24, 1999
1,392
0
0
Originally posted by: IHateMyJob2004
Just want o voice my frustrations with buying/sellign a home.

WANRING: RANT

Why the hell did the septic inspector say "leech field nearing the end of it's useful life" when he simply could say it's time to have it replaced?
Oh, our agent says things like, "If they back away, you have to disclose the pH and leech field thing".
RANT END
Hope that made sense.

No, it doesn't make sense. The ball is in your court, you own the house so challenge the inspector. Ask him if he did a dye test? If he looks at you and has no clue, tell him you're willing to do a dye test and run the water for 8 hrs. then he can come back and see for himself. Building inspectors are a "crock of @#%%", my inspector is my builder, atleast he has picked up a hammer before... As for real estate agents, they're a dime-a-dozen. I found a good one, but even then you have to do alot more yourself to get done what needs to be done. My realtor was away on vacation last week, so I lost out on my "dream home"... Oh well, it was a 400 sq. ft. bungalow for $225,000; the search goes on...
 
Sep 29, 2004
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And the thread lives. Tommorrow we go see the design consultant and order our cabinets (I pray).

The inspector was the person that pumped the septic system, not the home inspector. I'd assume he knows what he is doing. The people got a $5K credit whcich is total BS ... but they are still trying to pull BS and we are simply ignoring them. This closing has turned into a nightmare. The buyers are total butt holes.

 
Sep 29, 2004
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Also, this is the closet post to what we are doing:

http://www.flickr.com/photo_zoom.gne?id=164642635&size=o

This is the plan going in tommorrow .... The island is gone. The fridge in the lower left corner will be expanded to have some pantry space. Fridge will remain on that wall.

The bathroom addition is gone. The laundry will go in the bottom of the lower right section. Some extra storage there also. Essentailly, everything below the windows will be a closet that opens to the laundry. That bathroom door (bathroom not going there) is an existing opening right now. That door will be delated or flipped in the direction it opens to yield a small closet.

The breakfast bar remains and should seat 3.

The breakfast table will be against the right wall near where it is in the drawing.

The laundry in the drawing is moved as previously stated. The upper right corner will get a small pantry if room permits.

Keep in mind that the drawing that is posted uses inaccurate measuremnts, but it is close.

I mgiht draw up the current thoughts and post them should time permit.
 

Scarpozzi

Lifer
Jun 13, 2000
26,389
1,778
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All I can say is that kitchen design for work areas has switched from triangles to circles... Usually 2 or 3 small ones and one big one... Complex designs can drum up problems. For example, never put oven doors or dishwasher doors in corners. You should have at least 30 inches on both sides of doors that open down like that...and always make sure your dishwasher is offset from the cabinets that will house your dishes.

Try to position your fridge, sink, primary counter space, stovetop, and oven in a way that suits your cooking style. You may need to figure out what you use most and design the kitchen around that... When it comes to making the cabinets do what you need to, it's pretty easy these days since they're all modular and come in so many preset sizes. Good luck. I'm about to add another 6 feet of counter space to my kitchen in the next 6 months. I just finished the lighting last week.
 
Sep 29, 2004
18,665
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Originally posted by: Scarpozzi
All I can say is that kitchen design for work areas has switched from triangles to circles... Usually 2 or 3 small ones and one big one... Complex designs can drum up problems. For example, never put oven doors or dishwasher doors in corners. You should have at least 30 inches on both sides of doors that open down like that...and always make sure your dishwasher is offset from the cabinets that will house your dishes.

Try to position your fridge, sink, primary counter space, stovetop, and oven in a way that suits your cooking style. You may need to figure out what you use most and design the kitchen around that... When it comes to making the cabinets do what you need to, it's pretty easy these days since they're all modular and come in so many preset sizes. Good luck. I'm about to add another 6 feet of counter space to my kitchen in the next 6 months. I just finished the lighting last week.

Quick post
OPnce the cabinets go in, we are sarting the elcetrical. I plan to spend one day pulling wire. I pray I can get it done in one Sunday. Shouldn't be to bad though. Mostly a matter of determineing what goes where. We are redoing the ceiling with new drywall so holes arn't an issue!! Thank goodness!!!

Done electrical before. For what we are doing ... this should be a snap.
 
Sep 29, 2004
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The toughest part so far ... I want to assume a 36x36" fridge footprint. I wanta big fridge that is 36" wide. The problem is that for a 30" deep fridge that is 36" wide ... I'm looking at $2K fridge. I'll do it if required .... but man I really think it's a waste of money. Shooting for a 20+ cuft fridge but want a 25 cubt fridge. We'll have to see.

EDIT:
GE model: GCL22KGRSV
W 35 3/4" D 29 3/16"
22.1 cu ft

retail about $1800. not bad .. can probably get it under $1500. I think I found it!!!
 
Sep 29, 2004
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GE makes a bunch of 30" deep, 36" wide fridges that come in at 22.5 cu ft. Unfortunately, they all cost $2000 or so
 

Greenman

Lifer
Oct 15, 1999
20,657
5,346
136
Just a quick question for you, but why are you doing electrical after the cabinets? Perhaps even more important, why are you installing cabinets when the drywall isn't finished?
 

GMI

Member
Jun 6, 2005
191
0
0

I think that's the "professionally" installed price. My estiamte is about half that while my father in laws (who has done more of these than I) says it's doable in the $10K ball park. This week, I'll be taking my plans to the local lumber yard (who does alot more than lumber) and getting an estiamte done. I think I am way over-estiamting the cabinetry costs. And we can always do a "cheaper" granite. I can see doing it for $15K, but that $10K number by my father in law might be pushing it.

Depending on where you live op, your island granite piece might be hard to find. prefab granite pieces in 96x36 inches are easy to find, but 42 gets a tad harder and would certainly drive the cost up quite a bit if you have to have someone to fabricate it for you.
 

Kelemvor

Lifer
May 23, 2002
16,930
7
81
Just have an island that's not bolted down and is on legs so you can slide it around. We have ours over by the wall most of the time but slide it out when we need to use it a lot.

I built this: http://plansnow.com/kitchenctr.html
And it works great. We just put those glide feet things on the bottom and it slides right around on the wood flooring.
 
Sep 29, 2004
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THE FOUR FINAL IDEAS I HAVE

This is what it comes down to in my mind:

-- 1 --
In the drawing, it looks liek things are far appart ... trust me it's an illusion. fridge to breakfast bar is about 12 feet, whcih is on the firndge of the work triangle size. But this also gives some counter space by the fridge.
http://www.flickr.com/photo_zoom.gne?id=184508278&size=o

-- 2 --
Or with an island which causes the pantry to be deleted because the breakfast bar needs to be moved to better accomodate the island. With the island, the stove (oven/cooktop) could be moved to the island. The island would probably have to be 4 feet long whcih is kinda small. 5 feet would be better. And the associated pic:
http://www.flickr.com/photo_zoom.gne?id=184508279&size=o

EDIT:
I should add that "2" above will also allow for the island to strectch if desired. We can always move the breakfast bar farther away. An extra 6" on the island is only a 6" move of hte breakfast bar after all

EDIT 2:
Heck, here's 2 other ideas, the second of whci his awesome. It requires moving the door on the left side of the kitchen, but it might be worth it.

-- 3 --
http://www.flickr.com/photo_zoom.gne?id=184531885&size=o

-- 4 -- (this one is NICE)
http://www.flickr.com/photo_zoom.gne?id=184531886&size=o
 
Sep 29, 2004
18,665
67
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Originally posted by: Greenman
Just a quick question for you, but why are you doing electrical after the cabinets? Perhaps even more important, why are you installing cabinets when the drywall isn't finished?

Sorry for the confusion ....

The kitchen is currently 90% demoed. All that is left is demoing the floor. That will be done tommorrow.

We are finalizing our design (hopefully tommorrow) and ordering the cabinets. (2+ weeks for delivery)

Once that is done, we can plan the lighting and start pulling wire. And do all the electrical that is needed.

Once electrcial is done, we can get the drywall patched up and do all the associate drywall work (hiring someone to do this).

I'm planning 1-2 weeks for electrical and framing and drywall. And paint I suppose. We also need to tile.

The completion of the prep work should nearly coincide with the cabinet delivery. Then the cabinets get installed Then the counters will probably be done 2 weeks later.
 
Sep 29, 2004
18,665
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Originally posted by: FrankyJunior
Just have an island that's not bolted down and is on legs so you can slide it around. We have ours over by the wall most of the time but slide it out when we need to use it a lot.

I built this: http://plansnow.com/kitchenctr.html
And it works great. We just put those glide feet things on the bottom and it slides right around on the wood flooring.

We are considering this. If we go with this design:
http://www.flickr.com/photo_zoom.gne?id=184508278&size=o

We will try it out for a while and if we decide on the portable island .. we'll do it in a heartbeat. Thanks for the tip though!

EDIT: I just have one fear. We will end up leaving it in the middle of the kitchen all the time. I'd have regrets of not doing the "installed" island in the first place.
 
Sep 29, 2004
18,665
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Originally posted by: GMI

I think that's the "professionally" installed price. My estiamte is about half that while my father in laws (who has done more of these than I) says it's doable in the $10K ball park. This week, I'll be taking my plans to the local lumber yard (who does alot more than lumber) and getting an estiamte done. I think I am way over-estiamting the cabinetry costs. And we can always do a "cheaper" granite. I can see doing it for $15K, but that $10K number by my father in law might be pushing it.

Depending on where you live op, your island granite piece might be hard to find. prefab granite pieces in 96x36 inches are easy to find, but 42 gets a tad harder and would certainly drive the cost up quite a bit if you have to have someone to fabricate it for you.

I suppose if I have to buy a whole slab and discard half of it, that would be a costly issue to debate.
 

GMI

Member
Jun 6, 2005
191
0
0
granite island ususally come in as...well not islands but peninsulas (no bullnose work on one of the shorter edges) so you can cut to fit and it wouldn't be terribly expensive (just a matter of paying someone for one quick cut and 3 ft of bullnose fabrication work). but if you need something the width of 42, it might be hard/impossible to find in prefab depending on your location and you might have to pay for fabrication work on all 4 sides if you end up going with a whole slab.
 

Greenman

Lifer
Oct 15, 1999
20,657
5,346
136
Originally posted by: IHateMyJob2004
Originally posted by: Greenman
Just a quick question for you, but why are you doing electrical after the cabinets? Perhaps even more important, why are you installing cabinets when the drywall isn't finished?

Sorry for the confusion ....

The kitchen is currently 90% demoed. All that is left is demoing the floor. That will be done tommorrow.

We are finalizing our design (hopefully tommorrow) and ordering the cabinets. (2+ weeks for delivery)

Once that is done, we can plan the lighting and start pulling wire. And do all the electrical that is needed.

Once electrcial is done, we can get the drywall patched up and do all the associate drywall work (hiring someone to do this).

I'm planning 1-2 weeks for electrical and framing and drywall. And paint I suppose. We also need to tile.

The completion of the prep work should nearly coincide with the cabinet delivery. Then the cabinets get installed Then the counters will probably be done 2 weeks later.

Got it! It was looking like you were making a huge mistake or two. If you can paint before hanging cabinets it's a real time saver, you will have to touch up when the kitchen is finished but thats much eaiser than a complete paint job. One last tip then I'll stop bothering you, use 5/8" plywood under the Granit. 3/4" is as thick as the stone and will show under the edge of the top, it's a sloppy finish.
Ok, make that two last tips, get a set of face frame clamps, makes setting cabinets a lot eaiser, I think "Pony" makes them.

Edit: A fixed island is IMHO a better idea than something that moves around, because you can have an electric outlet on it, always a plus.
 
Sep 29, 2004
18,665
67
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Originally posted by: GMI
granite island ususally come in as...well not islands but peninsulas (no bullnose work on one of the shorter edges) so you can cut to fit and it wouldn't be terribly expensive (just a matter of paying someone for one quick cut and 3 ft of bullnose fabrication work). but if you need something the width of 42, it might be hard/impossible to find in prefab depending on your location and you might have to pay for fabrication work on all 4 sides if you end up going with a whole slab.

I was half execting to go to a stone yard and picking out the slab. If I go the granite route. It will all be custom finished for us at the yard.

Corian is a maybe, but I highly doubt it at this point. But corian costs the same as granite where I live (east coast) so there is little point in going the corian route.

We might do laminite also. The cheapo route. But it will result in a huge cost savings. We would then later consider an upgrade if we want to sell or simply have some cash to burn. Some laminites actually look great.
 
Sep 29, 2004
18,665
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Originally posted by: Greenman
Originally posted by: IHateMyJob2004
Originally posted by: Greenman
Just a quick question for you, but why are you doing electrical after the cabinets? Perhaps even more important, why are you installing cabinets when the drywall isn't finished?

Sorry for the confusion ....

The kitchen is currently 90% demoed. All that is left is demoing the floor. That will be done tommorrow.

We are finalizing our design (hopefully tommorrow) and ordering the cabinets. (2+ weeks for delivery)

Once that is done, we can plan the lighting and start pulling wire. And do all the electrical that is needed.

Once electrcial is done, we can get the drywall patched up and do all the associate drywall work (hiring someone to do this).

I'm planning 1-2 weeks for electrical and framing and drywall. And paint I suppose. We also need to tile.

The completion of the prep work should nearly coincide with the cabinet delivery. Then the cabinets get installed Then the counters will probably be done 2 weeks later.

Got it! It was looking like you were making a huge mistake or two. If you can paint before hanging cabinets it's a real time saver, you will have to touch up when the kitchen is finished but thats much eaiser than a complete paint job. One last tip then I'll stop bothering you, use 5/8" plywood under the Granit. 3/4" is as thick as the stone and will show under the edge of the top, it's a sloppy finish.
Ok, make that two last tips, get a set of face frame clamps, makes setting cabinets a lot eaiser, I think "Pony" makes them.

Edit: A fixed island is IMHO a better idea than something that moves around, because you can have an electric outlet on it, always a plus.

The face frame clamps are a good idea. The father in law probably has them though. Thanks for the tip and tips
 

GMI

Member
Jun 6, 2005
191
0
0
I'm on the west coast, so I can not tell you the price over in the east coast. Basically if you pick a granite slab and have it custom work, you would be looking at easily 40~90bucks per squard feet over here. or via the pre-fabricated route, the prices here for a standard 8'x2' cost anywhere from 100~300 and the only work require with that is if you want to join it with another piece of granite or make a sink hole. I strongly recommend you look for a prefab shop around your area, it saves a significant amount of money/time(your kitchen counters should take 1 day or day and a half of work to complete if it were a kitchen over here) compare to having it all custom done and the quality should be just as good.
 
Sep 29, 2004
18,665
67
91
THE FOUR FINAL IDEAS I HAVE

This is what it comes down to in my mind:

-- 1 --
In the drawing, it looks liek things are far appart ... trust me it's an illusion. fridge to breakfast bar is about 12 feet, whcih is on the firndge of the work triangle size. But this also gives some counter space by the fridge.
http://www.flickr.com/photo_zoom.gne?id=184508278&size=o

-- 2 --
Or with an island which causes the pantry to be deleted because the breakfast bar needs to be moved to better accomodate the island. With the island, the stove (oven/cooktop) could be moved to the island. The island would probably have to be 4 feet long whcih is kinda small. 5 feet would be better. And the associated pic:
http://www.flickr.com/photo_zoom.gne?id=184508279&size=o

EDIT:
I should add that "2" above will also allow for the island to strectch if desired. We can always move the breakfast bar farther away. An extra 6" on the island is only a 6" move of hte breakfast bar after all

EDIT 2:
Heck, here's 2 other ideas, the second of which is awesome. It requires moving the passage way on the left side of the kitchen, but it might be worth it.

-- 3 --
http://www.flickr.com/photo_zoom.gne?id=184531885&size=o

-- 4 -- (this one is NICE)
http://www.flickr.com/photo_zoom.gne?id=184531886&size=o
 
Sep 29, 2004
18,665
67
91
It's official.

This is the general design.

http://www.flickr.com/photo_zoom.gne?id=184531886&size=o

Hopefully, tommorrow we will finalize the design with the place we are dealing with and order our cabinets. Cabinets and counters(basic counters) will cost in the $7,000-$9,000 ballpark depending on changes we make tommorrow. Corian will cost an extra $1500 ... granite will probably cost the same(possibly less) and we are about 90% committed to granite.

FINALLY! Once the cabinets are ordered, we will decide on our lighting plan and start running wires for hte new lighting. A very exciting time.
 
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