Laptop power jack repair

[IEC]

I've got an Asus A53E laptop where the DC power jack soldered onto the motherboard has died (sibling killed it by not being careful). If I could replace it the laptop would be working again. I've got a replacement part and the whole laptop disassembled but I can't get the 5-pin jack desoldered from the motherboard with just my Weller 15W soldering iron.

Is there any place online which would accept small motherboard repair jobs for not too much money, or an easy/inexpensive way to repair this? Or would it be better just to sell the laptop for parts/not working?

Example of what I am talking about, but is not worth $69 to me to repair:
http://www.pcrepairhelp.net/asus-a53e-ac-dc-power-jack-repair/

 

[Ketchup]

Interesting timing. My son ran over mine, and I am waiting for the part to come in. Looking forward to a reply (I know of a couple AT'ers that should be able to answer this).

 

[denis280]

Sound funny.but try to get a good tv repair guy.cheaper.

 

[Cerb]

Ask around at any TV repair places, as mentioned, but also local computer shops.

The PCB traces around the jack are good heatsinks, so wattage could be an issue.

I have yet to figure out a way to make use of solder wick with lead-free solder, as well. I just use the solder that's there to tin my tip when it melts (bow chica bowow), then clean and repeat several times. It usually takes me 1-2 minutes.

That's with a 60W Hakko 936 (discontinued) using a small chisel tip. If you are using a pointed tip, or an oval angled tip, that will make it harder, too.

I would imagine the common-as-air Weller WLC100 would be adequate for the task, if you're looking to buy something for the work (obviously not the OP, but anyone else).

--

One thing you can try, though, if you have a dremel (if the shield material is very soft, dykes will do), is to cut the shield of the jack with a cutting wheel, and destroy the jack that's there, so that you can heat up the pins, and yank on them with pliers as you melt the solder.

 

[paul878]

Cut up the old connector and take it out pin by pin.
Put giant blob of solder that covers all five pin and pull connector out.

I recommend tape up the motherboard and use Mr, Hack Saw.

 

[IEC]

Ask around at any TV repair places, as mentioned, but also local computer shops.

One thing you can try, though, if you have a dremel (if the shield material is very soft, dykes will do), is to cut the shield of the jack with a cutting wheel, and destroy the jack that's there, so that you can heat up the pins, and yank on them with pliers as you melt the solder.

I'm not afraid of a little Dremel work, so I'll give this a shot. Could end up being a $3 + time/labor fix if all works out.

 

[paul878]

I'm not afraid of a little Dremel work, so I'll give this a shot. Could end up being a $3 + time/labor fix if all works out.

Don't you Dremel, you might, will lose control and damage the board.
Use hacksaw blade and do it very slowly.

 

[seo manager]

sometimes the best is buy a new one, just backup what you have in the hard drive!

 

[Vinwiesel]

You should never apply any force when soldering. The Copper and fiberglass the board is made of becomes weak when it is hot.

If you don't have access to a good soldering iron that can put out enough heat, you can pre-heat the area with a heat-gun so the tip doesn't have to work as hard. Sometimes I'll have the hot air on one side of the board, and the iron on the other. Getting a friend to help out makes this easier. Just remember you can over do it with the heat gun.

If you can carefully dismantle the old jack and remove it in pieces that can help too. Just leave plenty of the metal legs behind so you have something to grab on to as well as something to heat. Adding more solder helps to transfer more heat, and so does good wetting.

 

[Smoove910]

I used to do rework and repair for Plexus corp for many, many years. Believe it or not, if you are wanting to repair at home, try this.

Preheat your oven to 250 degrees, place motherboard on a cookie sheet and preheat the board for about 6-7 minutes. Take it out and try to desolder while still hot. The residual heat will raise the ambient temp of the imbedded heatplane in the PCB and will achieve reflow temp a shit-ton easier.

Always remember, it's HEAT, not pressure that will reflow your solder. Be careful!

Good Luck!

 

[webmaster1]

Hello,
Ok i got and i definitely go through it...:sneaky:

 

[sm625]

Yes whenever you are trying to desolder anything that is a heatsink, the easiest thing to do is cut out as much of the heat sinking material as you can. Once the legs are isolated they will desolder much easier. If you needed to preserve the old part this becomes much more problematic. In that case I use two irons and apply heat on both sides of the board.

 

[xgsound]

I find a solder sucker http://www.amazon.com/Parts-Express-...ref=pd_cp_hi_0 can be a good way to remove these things. Practice on an old circuit board with a 40 watt iron first. It's easy to burn off pads and traces and is almost an art.

Alternatively cutting out the old jack is highly desirable if possible. You can then heat each pin and sharply rap the board on the desk and the pin will come out and often leave a clean hole. Practice on on old board if you haven't done it often.

Jim