LCD Buyer's Guide

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darXoul

Senior member
Jan 15, 2004
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Just tell me what you need translated. I'm Polish.

If you need help with other languages, you can tell me as well - there is a chance I'll speak the particular language, or at least understand it at a decent level.

Maybe let's start with the sentences:

"The full, 8 bit color depth listed in the specifications is achievable thanks to the use of the FRC module, responsible for dynamic dithering. This is noticeable mainly from close distance, and shouldn't be too troublesome in normal usage in most applications. When watching movies, or, to a lesser degree - looking at pictures, you can observe a certain image graininess though, caused precisely by FRC in action. It is also confirmed when displaying micropatterns - one of the test images revealed an intense flickering."
 

xtknight

Elite Member
Oct 15, 2004
12,974
0
71
Originally posted by: darXoul
"The full, 8 bit color depth listed in the specifications is achievable thanks to the use of the FRC module, responsible for dynamic dithering. This is noticeable mainly from close distance, and shouldn't be too troublesome in normal usage in most applications. When watching movies, or, to a lesser degree - looking at pictures, you can observe a certain image graininess though, caused precisely by FRC in action. It is also confirmed when displaying micropatterns - one of the test images revealed an intense flickering."

Thanks. Maybe I'm not crazy after all.
 

Michael

Elite member
Nov 19, 1999
5,435
234
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I'm not aware of how you can get to 16.7 million colours through dithering if you start from a 6 bit screen or drivers. However, due to different temperature setting and such, I could see how you would have a base 8-bit display and then use FRC or other foms of dithering to achieve the "full" 16.7 million colours across all the settings.

I'm sure if you use a test pattern to force the panel into a setting where FRC is easier to see, then you'll see it. Some people are very sensitive to the "flickering" from a regular TV while most don't notice it when watching. The eyes and brain are a strange thing.

The real point here would to get confirmation from Viewsonic - is this a 8-bit panel, including electronics or is it something less than that? If it is an 8-bit panel (which the use of 16.7 in marketing would indicate), then that should be listed in the specs.

Thanks for digging this up and thanks to darXoul for the translation. I should have tried to learn more when I as growing up (mother is Ukranian and grandmother grew up in Poland and speaks Polish well), but I concentrated on French so I could talk to my neighbours instead.

Michael
 

xtknight

Elite Member
Oct 15, 2004
12,974
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Originally posted by: Mant
Hey xtknight, excellent guide. Its tough to find a good guide with some up-to-date recommendations, Im glad you've kept this thread current!
Im in the market for a LCD because my 17"CRT is about to head south (screen is starting to flicker at startup). I'm not sure if I should wait till it actually dies though, because I saw an article here at DailyTech that said prices are about to fall as the manufacturers get new factories up and running.

Anyway, my question is about that BenQ FP91G+ 19" that you just added to the list. I am a gamer and I haven't heard anything about that monitor yet, but the Egg has it (after rebate) for $230 right now! I'm pretty cheap, but I'd be glad to shell out 230 for a good 19in LCD. So how do you think that monitor compares to the Samsung 940B for gaming, which is $100 more? And have you seen a review somewhere you can link me to, this reply is partially to see if anyone that has this monitor to post their experiences woth it too.

Thanks, keep up the good work.

I couldn't find any reviews on the FP91G+ but this guy loves the 940B. Is it worth the extra money? Sorry, I'm not sure about that. Personally? I would buy the Samsung, but I'm somewhat of a Samsung fanboy.

http://www.overclockersonline.com/index.php?page=articles&num=311
 

bsmith1

Junior Member
Feb 7, 2006
1
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Ok I need a big favor....

My friend really enjoys gaming and wants a new LCD. I don't know a whole lot about this stuff, but I do know that he wants a good refresh rate. I'm trying to stick to around $500 as a gift, but I want to make sure I get quality for the $$. I was thinking he wanted a 19" Dell, but now that I've read this post, I am thinking the View Sonic is better?

Please let me know what you think.
 

xtknight

Elite Member
Oct 15, 2004
12,974
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Originally posted by: bsmith1
Ok I need a big favor....

My friend really enjoys gaming and wants a new LCD. I don't know a whole lot about this stuff, but I do know that he wants a good refresh rate. I'm trying to stick to around $500 as a gift, but I want to make sure I get quality for the $$. I was thinking he wanted a 19" Dell, but now that I've read this post, I am thinking the View Sonic is better?

Please let me know what you think.

If he wants a good response time (I assume that's what you mean by refresh rate), then the ViewSonic VX922, VX924 or Samsung 940B are good choices. The VX922 would have the fastest response time.
 

Navid

Diamond Member
Jul 26, 2004
5,053
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I have ordered the Gateway widescreen monitor.

I have a BFG 6800OC graphics card.

How do I figure out how much slower my graphics gets now that I will have a larger monitor?

Is there a formula that can be used to calculate that? Would the important parameter be the number of pixels?
 

mindless1

Diamond Member
Aug 11, 2001
8,602
1,675
126
Originally posted by: Navid
I have ordered the Gateway widescreen monitor.

I have a BFG 6800OC graphics card.

How do I figure out how much slower my graphics gets now that I will have a larger monitor?

Is there a formula that can be used to calculate that? Would the important parameter be the number of pixels?


Why yes, the formula is:

(Benchmark 1) - (Benchmark 2) = difference

Larger monitor is of no consequence, it's the resolution that counts. Typical 2D capability of a modern card is beyond human perception so it's irrelevant. 3D depends on the pre-processing used, ie - FSAA, etc, which varies per particular user setting (game) or global setting (driver). Many people find FSAA less necessary at higher res, if it degrades performance too much then drop it down a notch.
 

martensite

Senior member
Aug 8, 2001
284
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Just a FYI: my friend got a 17" Samsung 740B with DVI and 8ms, today, and there is severe backlight bleeding along the top and bottom edges. I dont know if this is just a bad unit or a design defect on this model.

No dead pixels though.

You might want to consider this when shopping for this monitor.

I found that the Viewsonic VP730B is better than the 740B both in terms of build quality and image quality. Dont mean to sound biased (because I own one), but I'd suggest a VP730 over the 740B if you are shopping for monitors with a equivalent feature-set.
 

Zebo

Elite Member
Jul 29, 2001
39,398
19
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DarXoul - this will bee my next try at LCD. By my calculations it's screen is 9" ^2 bigger than 16:9 20's as well, being 16:10. :thumbsup: Carries a decent pricetag but it's NEC afterall.:laugh:

Found a bigger pic http://www.adnpc.net/images/news/2006_02_02_01.jpg

Nice huh?

I'm a little hesitant to buy anything NEC after they "dissed" CRT users by discontinuing thier 22" U-NX diamondtrons (well you can still get one for $5000) but I love IPS colour and contrast if it games ok it may well have hit the trifecta.

Edit 2 - LOL they've just discontinued the only decent CRT left the $5000 NEC!!
http://www.necdisplay.com/products/Prod...lassificationFamily=1&Classification=1

Notice it says price n/a, used to be avail and say $4999 just one month ago.. ::SIGH::: It's an LCD world we're in now fellas. I better find something. (although I have a backup 2070 22" NIB)

 

filomena

Junior Member
Feb 18, 2006
1
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Hi all!I'm a new here.I have some questions for buying a LCD.
I have only 300$ and i can buy a 17" only .
I hesitate between these models:
http://www.prad.de/en/guide/screen1859.html
http://www.prad.de/en/guide/screen2407.html
These are Philips and have perfect panel guarantee.
http://www.prad.de/en/guide/screen2247.html
This one is Acer.
http://www.prad.de/en/guide/screen2206.html
And this one is Viewsonic.
I use the monitor for watching movies and playing UT99.
My config is:
amd athlon2000+
Asus v600-x
256 Pc3200 ddr400
FX5900 Asus
and 15"Viewsonic GA 800x600 100hz
Well i know that here all monitors that i choose are budget(Tn matrix)Is there any sence to buy LCD or i buy some refurbish 17/19" CRT which will sustain 1024/768 100hz/1280//1024 100hz
I worried about a native resolution of LCD because my system can't run games on 1280x1024.
Give me some advice.Thank u.
 

tm101

Junior Member
Feb 18, 2006
20
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As my first post in this forum let me contribute something to the VP930 Dithering issue.

First of all I can definitively confirm that the VP930 has an issue with certain color bands flickering with strange pattern that remind of dithering patterns, but most likely this is a defect of the electronics! I had two monitors exchanged by Viewsonic already, now I am using my third try. The Viewsonic hotline statet that this is a known issue and they offered several other people to exchange the monitor with a VP201. I did not want a 201 and they told me that they cannot asure me that a new monitor would solve the problem. Obviously it did not solve anything because I had to send it in again. The second one was far worse than the first one, the third one is quite ok, but you can still find the flickering in some colors. The first monitors lacked a good heap of dark green colors (where all just black) resulting in very obvious color banding, the third shows the full range of 256 shades of green. So all of those three tries behaved somehow different, which underlines my suspicion that the electronics are bugged.

Concerning the discussion if the VP930 uses 6 Bit + 2 Bit dithering as stated by the german site (which also states it's 16.7 mio. colors!?), 8 Bit like the VP191 did as statet by the british site (which also states it uses 16.7 mio. colors) or 8 Bit + Dithering. I would say that it uses 8 Bit + Dithering, just like the Eizos do!

With my VP191 it was very easy to find the only one setting that allowed me to use the full range of 16.7 mio. colors. Like with all 8 Bit displays you had to throw away a no. of colours if you changed contrast or color-temperature (RGB channels). With the VP930 I found that once you increase contrast over 70% with RGB all at 100% it shifts white down to the lightest shades of grey effectively replacing them with white while darker shades of grey become lighter.

So why am I quite sure that it's not 6 bit + 2 FRC dithering? Because I have seen a VP171 which uses an 6 bit + 2 FRC TN-panel. Dithering works very good on this monitor but it's still discernable. Also I made myself some pictures to test all gradients of grey, red, green and blue, each picture showing all 256 shades of the coresponding color. A 6+2 bit display could only display 64 pure shades while dithering 253 of the other shades and leaving 2 shades out completely. At least for my eyes the VP930 displays all 256 shades very well (despite the very few that show the mostly red flickering issue). Plus it does so when you lower contrast or color settings, which speaks for at least 8 bit. If those patterns mentioned earlier were pure dithering then you would see them on most shades, not only a handfull of them. But when you decrease contrast or even any color-channel (RGB) no colors are thrown away at all, they all just become darker. For an 8 bit panel this must mean that some kind of dithering is used either or brightness is reduced. The second is not the case because you can see that those few flickering shades are shifted further up the scale as you lower contrast.

Acutally that is quite a feature which Eizo uses to brag about ("10 bit look up table, 1.07 billion colors bla"). But unfortunately it seems as if Viewsonic has not managed to get the control-electronics right. I suspect that those very obvious flickerings are due to improper dithering while we don't even see the dithering that is properly used on all the other colors.There is another flaw in the color settings that supports that there is something wrong with the electronics. When you manually set colors and change one of the basic color (red, green, blue) by just one percent the whole color-channel is increased by +11%, even if you actually decreased the channel! That means if you set all three channels one down and one up again you effectively increase the contrast by +11%. If after that you change the contrast by just 1% the colors turn back to normal. So if you want to manually set colors you first have to decrease contrast by -11%, then set all three channels at least one up and down, then you can set colors to your liking and after that you increase contrast by +11% again.

If you want to see the strange (mostly red) flickering on your VP930 for yourself then do the following (via DVI, analog may show different colors). You will most likely see a dark grey screen with alot of moving red dots and lines on it. If that doesn't work play a bit with contrast and different color settings.

- switch to sRGB colors via the monitor
- turn brightness to 113% via your graphic-card driver
- show a black screen

These are the gradient charts I made myself and used for testing. Each shows all 256 shades of the given color, 16 shades per line, 16 lines total. Above each line you see two bars, the left bar uses the same color as the outer left shade of a line, the right bar shows the same color as the outer right shade of a line (that helps to discern the shades from each other). Use the charts in fullscreen at 1280x1024 for best results, there is a black border around them to compensate for backlight leacking at the corners of your typical Viewsonic/AU Optics panel.

contrast_grey.png
contrast_red.png
contrast_green.png
contrast_blue.png
 

xtknight

Elite Member
Oct 15, 2004
12,974
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71
Originally posted by: tm101
There is another flaw in the color settings that supports that there is something wrong with the electronics. When you manually set colors and change one of the basic color (red, green, blue) by just one percent the whole color-channel is increased by +11%, even if you actually decreased the channel! That means if you set all three channels one down and one up again you effectively increase the contrast by +11%. If after that you change the contrast by just 1% the colors turn back to normal. So if you want to manually set colors you first have to decrease contrast by -11%, then set all three channels at least one up and down, then you can set colors to your liking and after that you increase contrast by +11% again.

Wow, thanks, and welcome to the forums! Best first post I've seen.

For the OSD RGB control flaw does that only occur when you hold down two buttons at once and it makes the bar jump? Or is this happening 'subconciously' (the OSD reporting an incorrect value)?

What is frustrating is that contrast thing. I notice anything over about 66% contrast is basically bleached. And the colors seem to shift a lot when adjusting contrast. They also seem to shift more than they should when just using the RGB bars. The adjustments on this monitor aren't so great.

It never even crossed my mind this flickering could be a defect in the monitor but all the pieces to the puzzle seem to fit together now.

When they suggested a VP201 for you, does that mean none of their VP930bs were exempt from this flaw?

Last night I set my VP930b next to my shadow mask CRT and with lots of adjustment I got the LCD to look very decent compared to any of the settings I had had it at prior. The image is almost the same between the two, the CRT having slightly more contrast between colors and the LCD being overall brighter.

Still, skin tones appear a little bleached compared to the CRT, but nature scenes are even more beautiful on the LCD I'd say. Can probably be attributed to the green tinge of the backlight, so those color washout problems should be solved with LED backlights.
 

tm101

Junior Member
Feb 18, 2006
20
0
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Originally posted by: xtknightWow, thanks, and welcome to the forums! Best first post I've seen.

For the OSD RGB control flaw does that only occur when you hold down two buttons at once and it makes the bar jump? Or is this happening 'subconciously' (the OSD reporting an incorrect value)?
It happens as soon as you change the value of any of the three bars by even 1%. It's not that the value goes wrong, but the color goes all wrong (becomes too bright). As soon as you change contrast by a single % afterwards the colors become darker (right) again.
What is frustrating is that contrast thing. I notice anything over about 66% contrast is basically bleached. And the colors seem to shift a lot when adjusting contrast. They also seem to shift more than they should when just using the RGB bars. The adjustments on this monitor aren't so great.
That should not be so. Actually 70% is the sweet point from which colors start to bleed (become white). Also colors should shift quite slightly when using contrast, but my first model also had that huge impact on using contrast while the later two sported smooth contrast controls.
When they suggested a VP201 for you, does that mean none of their VP930bs were exempt from this flaw?
That was in November I think. They also told me that they offer the VP201 to everyone reporting this issues. Nowadays they are giving VP2030 and VP231 to some people that have issues with their rather cheap VX924 when they do not have any more of these in stock. My first two models have been manufactured in September 05, the latest one in October 05.
Still, skin tones appear a little bleached compared to the CRT, but nature scenes are even more beautiful on the LCD I'd say. Can probably be attributed to the green tinge of the backlight, so those color washout problems should be solved with LED backlights.
Well, my second model was alot too bright overall, everything was a bit more washed out with lots more backlight bleaching in the corners than with the other two models, especially affecting contrast and black levels. This also put emphasize on the flickering issue since that happens mainly with dark colors. Another thing that stroke me with the second model was that soft scrolling text (by scrollbar) and sometimes the mousepointer became kind of bold style, which I cannot remember with model 1 and definitively vanished with model 3.

By the way, the VP930 is less "fast" with dark colors (especially certain problem combinations) than the VP191 used to be, showing slightly more trails. But the overal picture still seems more pleasing, maybe because the VP930 also shows less to nil overdrive-coronas/ghosting and everything looks a bit more homogenous (compare med-stations with a red cross on white background at dark walls in Halflife 2 for instance).

These two images I build can be used to test for trails/smearing/ghosting/coronas. Just view them in a windows (not fullscreen), turn on "Show window contents while dragging" and move the window around with your mouse. Use circle movements to see overdrive-coronas at the edges of the bars. Do not worry too much if you see quite alot of trails there, these are very special problem combinations (also on my former VP191 which behaved quite different at 75Hz compared to 60Hz). You should not turn contrast too low though, because the lower the contrast the more trails you will see. Actually for hardcore gamers it is a good idea to turn brightness to 103 - 105% in the graphiccard-drivers. That will result in less trailing but also less contrast (black becomes dark grey), this is still preferable to a TN-Panel I think (which shows less contrast and colors from the very beginning anyway).

response_midtone_grey.gif
response_dark_grey.gif
 

xtknight

Elite Member
Oct 15, 2004
12,974
0
71
Originally posted by: tm101
That should not be so. Actually 70% is the sweet point from which colors start to bleed (become white). Also colors should shift quite slightly when using contrast, but my first model also had that huge impact on using contrast while the later two sported smooth contrast controls.

Well I mean not that the whole screen is suddenly white after 66%, but I mean the higher colors get gradually bleached after that point.

Well, my second model was alot to bright overall, everything was a bit more washed out with lots more backlight bleaching in the corners than with the other two models, especially affecting contrast and black levels. Another thing that stroke me with the second model was that soft scrolling text (by scrollbar) and sometimes the mousepointer became kind of bold style, which I cannot remember with model 1 and definitively vanished with model 3.

Well, I do not have the mouse pointer problem. Black levels are good on my monitor, but the bleeding is rampant (in relative; of course; it's really not that bad at all). My old Samsung 710T had a higher black level, but more uniform as well.

By the way, the VP930 is less "fast" with dark colors (especially certain problem combinations) than the VP191 used to be, showing slightly more trails. But the overal picture still seems more pleasing, maybe because the VP930 also shows less to nil overdrive-coronas/ghosting and everything looks a bit more homogenous (compare med-stations at dark walls in Halflife 2 for instance).

That agrees precisely with what Tom's Hardware Guide was saying. I notice with text over earth-tone colors (like in Battlefield 2) it seems to have a little reddish overdrive defect. X-Bit Labs also observed the 60/75 Hz blurring difference and has graphs for it (but of VX924 or another Samsung I think).

Check out these pics:

This test image is absolutely disastrous on mine when speaking of blurring, but it is most definitely worst case scenario (I had to specially engineer it to be so because I could not find a good real-life example): http://xtknight.atothosting.com/blur1.bmp

This one has almost no blurring on mine (same pattern, more extreme colors): http://xtknight.atothosting.com/noblur1.bmp

The subtle colors take all the flak of this blurring it seems. I'm not sure it is only darks, but anything that requires a transition of <64 shades. You just don't notice it on the bright ones. Except sometimes you do, like when I move I can see the wall textures get blurry. Not too irritating, but it's noticeable. I do prefer the VAs because they have higher contrast (vs. TNs in both static and motion).

Edit: well, looks like you got right on this as well. I see it in your images as well, a lot.
 

tm101

Junior Member
Feb 18, 2006
20
0
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Originally posted by: xtknightWell I mean not that the whole screen is suddenly white after 66%, but I mean the higher colors get gradually bleached after that point.

That's exactly what I meant. But actually it should not happen over 66% but over 70% (the default contrast setting).

That agrees precisely with what Tom's Hardware Guide was saying. I notice with text over earth-tone colors (like in Battlefield 2) it seems to have a little reddish overdrive defect. X-Bit Labs also observed the 60/75 Hz blurring difference and has graphs for it (but of VX924 or another Samsung I think).

With the VP930 the difference between 60Hz and 75Hz is not that big, while with the VP191 the difference was very obvious. Actually I always prefered 75Hz on my VP191 because of less overdrive-coronas and because I am living in a PAL area (movies use 25 frames/s).

This test image is absolutely disastrous on mine when speaking of blurring, but it is most definitely worst case scenario (I had to specially engineer it to be so because I could not find a good real-life example): http://xtknight.atothosting.com/blur1.bmp

This one has almost no blurring on mine (same pattern, more extreme colors): http://xtknight.atothosting.com/noblur1.bmp

Great pics for testing, but most of what you see there are not trails but overdrive-coronas! They happen because of the transition from one color tone to another. Try out the following. Lower your mouse sensitivity and move the pic very slowly from right to left and look very close at the edge between cyan and red (it's a good idea to enlarge the pic). When you move the pic very slowly you will notice a thin bright red line just at the very edge between the two colors. That it a bright overdrive-corona that appears because the red pixels are overdriven for a brief moment to higher voltage than the destination color/voltage. If you move the pic just a little bit faster you will notice a dark gap between the bright red line and the cyan that grows larger the faster you move. Actually I am a bit shocked :Q that the gap grows that large. What you see mostly likely is a dark overdrive-corona that happens because cyan (green+blue) is overdriven to fall to black level faster than red is overdriven to rise to it's level. As a result you see a trail of darkness for those pixels that where green + blue have already been lowered while red has not been raised yet.
 

tm101

Junior Member
Feb 18, 2006
20
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Finally I have found something very disturbing: There are very perceptible dithering patterns with moving pictures! I can see them very clearly as a checkboard pattern, for example when moving around your pics at slow to medium speed. The lower the contrast the better you can see them. This time I am very shocked! :disgust:

I got this third model just three days ago and had mainly concentrated of static images. But then I played a round of Battlefield 2 and thought "Hey, somehow this looks a bit as if I was using only 16 Bit colors, especially with fog". First I blamed the latest Forceware beta driver that I just had installed. But yesterday I played several games on a lan-party and had the very same feeling with Call of Duty 2. I uninstalled the Forceware driver and used an older one instead that I had been using for several weeks before. The problem remains and now I have to blame the display, especially since it happens so obvious with 2D images as well. Strange thing is that for the last weeks of regulary playing Battlefield 2 I never had such a feeling/perception with the first two models I used before.

So please everyone using a VP930 please have a close look at this phenomen and let me know if you see the same (also try lowering the contrast and don't move too fast) or if this third model is to blame alone. Thanks!
 

xtknight

Elite Member
Oct 15, 2004
12,974
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71
Originally posted by: tm101
That's exactly what I meant. But actually it should not happen over 66% but over 70% (the default contrast setting).

Yeah, I think you're right. I think I noticed it between 68-71 somewhere. I don't know, but it's frustrating.

Great pics for testing, but most of what you see there are not trails but overdrive-coronas! They happen because of the transition from one color tone to another.

It's both bad trails and overdrive. I presume they don't use overdrive on the 0-50 range (at least on the rise) because the effects would just be too bright for too long, having the pixel fall all the way down to 50 from 255. Unfortunately because of the lack of overdrive here though, trails are horrible on VA panels by default. So the overdrive effects from one are spilling into another, plus you're getting all the horrible non-overdrive trails of the other subpixels transitioning, and together, the overall effect is very disgusting. The teal and magenta (outer borders) show this (blur1.bmp), where the teal tries to transition to the magenta, when slowly moving the pic right, you see both the dark trailing of the magenta fading, and the overdrive trying to speed up the teal transition to dark magenta, causing a bright spike (red line) until it reaches the low subpixel values of the magenta.
 

xtknight

Elite Member
Oct 15, 2004
12,974
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71
Originally posted by: tm101
Finally I have found something very disturbing: There are very perceptible dithering patterns with moving pictures! I can see them very clearly as a checkboard pattern, for example when moving around your pics at slow to medium speed. The lower the contrast the better you can see them. This time I am very shocked! :disgust:

Hmm...I have not noticed this in anything yet. Have you noticed the overdrive causing red text labels of players in Battlefield 2 when panning across the screen? Do you think your third model has worse dithering (or noise from bad electronics) problems then? Do you have a test pic where this happens the most, or just take a screenshot where it happens and I'll move it around for a long time and see if I can reproduce it.

Anyway right now I have recommended the Samsung 940B as the best gaming monitor. I think it still uses a pure speed 8 ms TN panel with no overdrive, but I'm not sure of that. It will have much better transitions in the darker spectrum than the VA+overdrive monitors.
 

darXoul

Senior member
Jan 15, 2004
702
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http://www.lesnumeriques.com/duels.php?ty=6&ma1=52&mo1=95&p1=969&ma2=88&ph=1

People from the French site lesnumeriques.com (where you can find some really nice and useful head-to-head comparisons of LCDs based on which you can compare speed, viewing angles, etc.) have just added the brand new NEC LCD20WGX2 6 ms g2g 12 ms bwb AS-IPS display to their database.

In typical game situations, it should look as good as quickest TN panels, if not better. It's clearly much, much better than the 11/14 ms panel mounted in the 3007FPW. As for dark scenes, the text test clearly shows that not much improvement has been made here so TN panels are still by far the best LCDs in this department.

AS-IPS viewing angles are of course great. For people who like 20" widescreens and don't care about height adjustment or the glossy coating, it looks like an awesome gaming monitor. You sacrifice some response time in dark scenes as compared to TN but you get better angles and color accuracy. Not bad.
 
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