Least drama beater commuter car?

[slackerinabox]

I just accepted a job that requires a 30 mile commute and, since the mrs. needs a car as well, my only option is to buy an old beater. I've been unemployed for a while and doubt I'd even get credit approval without a paystub yet, and may use my car allowance in 6 months I really only need something to get me there and back, with a backseat for the rare time I have to drop my kid to kindergarten (rare, my wife will use the minivan most of the time).

Budget - embarassingly low, $2000 would be best, $3,000 is doable. I'll probably be trading this in toward a certified pre-owned car once my car allowance kicks in. The reason I'm being cheap is because this is nyc and, if this job doesn't work out, my next job will mostly like just be a subway ride away (and then I'd be stuck with a big loan and an extra car).

*update*

Found a pretty good deal on a 2003 Tiburon GT owned by a gear head (perfect maintenance record, nice mods for a car that cheap, and a V6 that ran very smooth for the age), originally listed at $3,000 but haggled the seller down to $2,200 (he's moving in 2 weeks and needs it sold stat).

It's pretty handsome actually, blue with a black leather interior with no damage (exterior's paint is a little faded), leather, dvd, bluetooth, navigation (jensen, but hey it's something), infinity speakers and sub, and newish rims and tires with at least 70% of their life left. My wife won't look silly dropping off the kid, and I might take a trip to maco for the fading. I think we'll take turns driving it, so sometimes it'll have a 60 mile commute, sometimes 3. Really quite pleased!

The cool thing is that I won't be tempted to dig into the car allowance so I can just let it stack until I get a sizable down payment + trade in, without taking out a loan right now when just starting a job. Thanks for the advice guys, I'm pretty confident this will last me 6 months to a year with little drama! (the headlight looks busted, it's just a reflection)

 

[slackerinabox]

I've seen 2004 hyundai tiburon's for $2000, and that's on my list because it's kinda attractive and not a lot of drama. Anything else I should look at? I don't really care about age

 

[thedarkwolf]

You are buying a temporary car here so don't be too picky. You can pretty much forget toyotas and hondas. Any of those you find are going to have a crap load of miles, be beat up, and old as hell. Try for 2 out of those 3 .

Pontiac Aztec
Aztecs are reviled for their looks but that also means you can pick one up for nothing.

Ford taurus/focus/escape/explorers, Saturns, about any minivan, jeep cherokee not the grand, chevy impalas, pontiac g6 or if you get really lucky a vibe which is just a toyota. I wouldn't want anything early 2000s from hyundai or anything European.

 

[Torn Mind]

The 1999-2003 Hondas should be avoided because of suspect transmissions.

Toyota Corolla is okay, but you must be willing to walk if the exhaust is toast or if it is a leakfest in there. The Echo is cheaper.

1st gen Priuses are also available.

Minivans-will likely be over budget if Japanese or prone to gremlins if we're talking Chryslers.

 

[Dr. Detroit]

You should be looking at '98-'02 GM's. 3400 is bulletproof and should net you 25mpg. Alero, Impala, MonteCarlo, Grand Am,

The 3800 engines are also a great choice - Regal, LeSabre, Grand Prix.

The 4cyl Contour/Mystique is also a decent enough choice. Saturn Ion is also a fine choice.

 

[SSSnail]

Toyota Corolla.

/thread

 

[Yuriman]

Toyota Corolla.

/thread

Quoted for truth.

Also I believe the 99-03 Honda transmissions that were problematic were only the V6 automatic transmissions?

 

[tracerbullet]

Agree with a Taurus as a possibility. There have been and still are a few in my extended family and the things run forever trouble free.

 

[slackerinabox]

Thanks very much guys! Funny that prius was mentioned - I've seen them with 150k on them for under $4k. I know it's highly likely that the battery is exhausted, but am I right in that an exhausted battery just means decreased fuel efficiency? Or will the car not run at all? I've also read that they're bullet proof up to 200k, and I doubt I'd put anywhere near 50k on the car (the truth is I'll sell it the moment I realize the job is for me or not - if I do make the job longterm the $400/month car allowance is too good to pass up, I'd just trade in for an elantra or something)

 

[slackerinabox]

Weird thought - I ran the numbers and I can get a 2011 genesis for 0 down after trade in for $60 less than my monthly car allowance. I think that will be my 6 month goal, and this purchase will DEFINITELY just be used for 6 months and then used for a trade in (or I get fired and I take the bus ). With that in mind, I found a BMW 3 series that looks great at a 4 star dealer (tons of miles, 140k) for $4,000. It also comes with a 3 month powertrain warranty (I figure with 60+ highway miles a day I'll see major tranny and engine problems in weeks).

I know the wise advice is to avoid beater european cars, but with a 3 month warranty, would my assumption that the trade in value for an old loaded (leather, nav, xm, heated seats) bmw would be better than a beater GM be correct? And I'd have more fun (or more headaches, but I *believe* my car allowance can be used toward maintenance, and the 6 month rule is my own - I get the allowance from day one, I just feel stupid using it without being positive this is the place for me).

 

[lxskllr]

Cars are priced what they're worth(usually). There's a reason a loaded bmw is selling for $4k. It's because there's a hole under the seat that sucks money from your wallet ;^)

 

[slackerinabox]

Cars are priced what they're worth(usually). There's a reason a loaded bmw is selling for $4k. It's because there's a hole under the seat that sucks money from your wallet ;^)

I hear you, and wise words. One thought, what if I got the $2,000 for 3/years extended warranty? I know there's hassles involved in getting reimbursed, and then my total's up to $6k. Still would be driving a bmw for a year vs a hyundai accent actually, some nice gm choices mentioned - I also like the cobalt ss, just gotta make sure a booster seat fits in the back, it might be the most sensible and at least modern looking cars (I'd drive a saturn, I think my colleagues at the dealership would laugh at me.. )

 

[lxskllr]

You're really not gonna get any kind of "status symbol" for the money you have to spend. Ugly gives you the best value. You need to get to work reliably until you get some money saved up. A solid drivetrain, with few frills. To me that means an older Japanese or Korean car. I'd consider American, but I have more faith in Asian imports. I do kind of like the Aztec suggestion. It really was a useful vehicle, but I have no idea how something that ugly passed internal review :^D

 

[Slacker]

What region of craigslist would you be looking at?

 

[slackerinabox]

NYC, I'd be willing to drive as far as 150 miles for a good deal

 

[HarryLui]

https://newyork.craigslist.org/lgi/ctd/5719612563.html

 

[NutBucket]

How about an ex-cop car? Those are cheap and dead simple.

 

[thedarkwolf]

yeah I forgot the crown vics. Super reliable and completely worthless, the perfect beater. Doesn't need to be a cop car but those are usually even cheaper. The only downside is RWD may suck in Ny.

 

[slackerinabox]

Lots of super cheap taxis crown vics with 300k miles, tempting if it weren't for the urine .. or worse... stains on the back seats.

 

[Torn Mind]

You're really not gonna get any kind of "status symbol" for the money you have to spend. Ugly gives you the best value. You need to get to work reliably until you get some money saved up. A solid drivetrain, with few frills. To me that means an older Japanese or Korean car. I'd consider American, but I have more faith in Asian imports. I do kind of like the Aztec suggestion. It really was a useful vehicle, but I have no idea how something that ugly passed internal review :^D

I thought Korean cars had the reputation of being basically cheap, hot garbage until around the late 2000s.

 

[agent00f]

Wait, you're unemployed + have no money, and thinking about getting a BMW?

If you're serious about this, look for late model GM something. They're common, reliable enough, & not terribly popular, so with the copious time on your hands should be able to find a very well (ie under)priced one.

 

[lxskllr]

I thought Korean cars had the reputation of being basically cheap, hot garbage until around the late 2000s.

I dunno. I always considered them the poor man's Japanese. I don't follow this stuff closely, but people I know with Korean cars have been happy with them.

 

[CombatChuk]

Mazda Protege?

 

[dave_the_nerd]

For the last three years, I have had a 30 mile commute each way - my '07 Ford Focus has been handling it pretty well . (30+ MPG, relatively comfy.) Put on 120k miles since I bought it in 2010.

But since it's currently in the shop with the third blown alternator* in 6 years, I'm going to go with "it works, but get a similar-mileage Civic/Corolla if you can afford it."

*(Apparently that's a common problem with Focuses of this vintage. Bad alternator design, so we're kind of stuck with it. I haven't researched it enough to know if an aftermarket 'racing' alternator might be better.)

 

[dave_the_nerd]

Thanks very much guys! Funny that prius was mentioned - I've seen them with 150k on them for under $4k. I know it's highly likely that the battery is exhausted, but am I right in that an exhausted battery just means decreased fuel efficiency? Or will the car not run at all? I've also read that they're bullet proof up to 200k, and I doubt I'd put anywhere near 50k on the car (the truth is I'll sell it the moment I realize the job is for me or not - if I do make the job longterm the $400/month car allowance is too good to pass up, I'd just trade in for an elantra or something)

My parents' Prius has gone 300k on the original battery pack and is still running like a top. But according to the Toyota dealer via my parents (so, it could be bad info) once the battery pack goes, the car is a brick.