Looking to identify this capacitor

[wescotte]

Here is a link to a capacitor I am trying to identify and find a place i can purchase a replacement. The only written information is presented on the top. I cannot locate anything to specific positive and negative connections but I assume the side with the black marking could mean a negative connection. Is anyone able to verify that for me?

Simple sketch of capacitor

Thanks

Eric

 

[ScottMac]

I'd say it's probably a 100 mfd, 10v electrolytic. The marked sides are usually positive.

FWIW

Scott

 

[CTho9305]

millifarad or microfarad? 100millifarad would be pretty big, wouldn't it?

 

[DeeK]

At those dimensions it'd be microfarads. "mfd" often means microfarads on capacitors, whereas (for example) a 100 millifarad cap would usually have "0.1 Fd" printed on it.

 

[ScottMac]

I've never heard of a capacitor rated by "millifarad." A "1 millifarad" capacitor would be marked as 1000 microfarads.

Dimensions don't always tell the tale either. When I was in electronics class ('72-'73) one of the excercises we had to do was calculate dimensions for a workable ONE FARAD capacitor. The smallest unit anyone came up with was about the size of an eighteen-wheeler.

Nowadays, with new materials & such, the extreme bass-thumping idiot drivers have BANKS of ONE FARAD (rated ~15V) caps in the line (each about the size of a tall-boy can of beer) to help fill in the power gaps of the subs. I also have some ONE FARAD caps that aren't much larger than a coat button (rated ~5V).

Things may have changed some, but my recollection is that caps are marked in microfarads, picofarads, or (now) farads in non-fractional numbers. That way there's no room for confusion about what a "m" stands for.

But, I could be wrong.....

FWIW

Scott

 

[highwire]

Nice sketch of cap.
Slam dunk that it is an aluminum elecrolytic. It is identical to the caps that litter my ATI 8500. As others said, it is a 100 uFd 10 volt cap.
The caps on the ATI board are mounted with the black marking AWAY from the plus signs at the cap locations. So, that polarity marking is the NEGATIVE side. If the polarity of the replacement is marked with a different style, mount accordingly.
The bottom 3 alphanumeric is likely a date code.

 

[Demon-Xanth]

The big piece of missing info is the size. You'll need to measure it pretty precisely.

 

[CTho9305]

<< The big piece of missing info is the size. You'll need to measure it pretty precisely. >>


not really... you can always bend the pins of the replacement a little.

 

[Demon-Xanth]

You can go up or down a size at the most. But trust me, these parts you can't really bend the pins on. (I've soldered them). The plastic piece on the bottom is both an insulator, polarity mark, and a stable base for the capacitor.

 

[CTho9305]

<< You can go up or down a size at the most. But trust me, these parts you can't really bend the pins on. (I've soldered them). The plastic piece on the bottom is both an insulator, polarity mark, and a stable base for the capacitor. >>


In that case you probably wouldn't like my Epox 7KXA