Making DIY oil changes easier . . . are these products reliable, though?

[BonzaiDuck]

I've gone on a year-long campaign to eliminate every possible detectible fluid leak on my old '95 Trooper.

Dexron from the Tranny -- Leak-abatement required only torqueing the tranny attachment bolts to factory spec -- a recommendation of the shop manual.

Anti-freeze -- Another thread traces my saga on this item. In the end, I replaced the radiator.

Engine oil -- First thought there was a rear-mainseal leak, and truth be told, there had been a slight leak at the mainseal over the years -- resolved with only part of a bottle of Blue-Devil Main-Sealer. Replacing the old valve-cover gaskets after 60K miles resolved another minor leak. Belatedly, I discovered that the engine-oil drain-plug leaks even when the bolt is snugly torqued. This is the only leak I have left to resolve.

The Trooper engine has been through 188,500 miles, which amounts to approximately 60 oil changes. Web-forum stories are not uncommon for stripped bolts or damaged oil-pans. My bolt still snugs as though the threads are damage-free, but a tiny leak remains. The immediate and most likely solution would be provided by a better gasket. Drain-plug gaskets are often made of copper, and I have some new ones. The unit currently installed is zinc or aluminum. There are rubberized metal gaskets and nylon gaskets that can be purchased, and I made those tiny investments anticipating my next oil change.

I also discovered these devices:

Valvomax Oil Drain Valve



Fumoto Drain Valve


There are rather numerous customer reviews at least for the Fumoto product, and only a handful indicate complaints that they leak.

It's important to prevent catastrophic leaks from loose drain plugs. Minor leaks -- well -- that puts me back in my current situation, and a Dorman drain-plug with a good gasket would be a remedy anticipating some new or different valve assembly.

Anyone else with experience using these types of products, or those I've specifically posted? Thoughts? Comments?

 

[feralkid]

Trying to address a potential failure point by adding a second potential failure point.

 

[jlee]

A new drain plug gasket should fix your problem - that said, I have used Fumoto valves problem-free for years.

 

[BonzaiDuck]

A new drain plug gasket should fix your problem - that said, I have used Fumoto valves problem-free for years.

That's the positive encouragement I was seeking. I assume we're both open to someone else's negative horror story. But one of the customer reviews I scanned said about the same thing: used them for years -- no problem (unless that was YOUR review! ).

Feralkid has a point, but the Fumoto and Valvomax both have fall-backs. The initial "failure point" we assume would be a leaky and progressively loosening conventional drain plug bolt. I saw that happen to a friend who'd just purchased a pristine pre-owned Accord, running it through one of those "Qwik-Change" oil-service-only places. The bolt dropped off the pan after 50 miles, and his engine was toast. But that problem diminishes by doing your own oil changes, and checking the torque on the plug bolt -- perhaps even checking it periodically and between oil changes.

The Valvomax has a screw-on cap that secures the drain hole mating up with the metal part and plastic drain tube. Fumoto offers an accessory vinyl or rubber cap to cover the flow-nozzle -- too expensive at $5 but other items can be substituted.

However, if you've used them extensively and never observed failure of the stop-cock mechanism, your experience inspires confidence.

I'd rather have a device that screws into the oil-pan for the duration, while allowing quick and easy drain for an oil-change. Just installing a new and better gasket solves the leak, but I'll have to remove and reinstall the bolt after every oil change. I think the Fumoto may have the better gasket, and can remain in place, still allowing for oil changes.

 

[pcgeek11]

I'm also in the Fumoto Court. I have used a Fumoto valve in my Tacoma for many years with no issues whatsoever. Plus it has a nipple for a hose so I drain it into a plastic 2 gallon jug so I don't have to clean a drain pan either.

Only "drawback" if you want to call it that is that it drains slower than just removing a plug. But that is a plus in my opinion as I get a chance to drink a beer while it drains.

 

[tracerbullet]

I've considered one of these for years, but at like 2 changes a year I've just never pulled the trigger. I let the drain plug drop into the oil and fish it out later, it's not ideal but hasn't been a big enough issue to try and solve. That said it's on my mind again after reading this.

 

[skyking]

I put fumotos on both of my diesel beetles, mostly because I had put on aluminum skid plates with fairly small doors for oil changing. I happen to like them.

 

[BonzaiDuck]

I've considered one of these for years, but at like 2 changes a year I've just never pulled the trigger. I let the drain plug drop into the oil and fish it out later, it's not ideal but hasn't been a big enough issue to try and solve. That said it's on my mind again after reading this.

Oh, I'd be in the same state of mind, but I have a "chemical maintenance" plan through mid-summer. I chose against using Motor Medic MF3 Flush. Instead, I'll put in a quart of Marvel Mystery Oil. I want to get the viscosity to the right level, so I'll probably want to drain two quarts of 10W-30 and replace with 1 quart 20W-50 and 1 qt Marvel.

This all fits with my plan to eliminate my leak. I'll install the Fumoto F106N or a similar M14-1.5 model at next complete oil change. For the moment, expecting to "lose" 2 quarts anyway, I'm going to swap in an AGS ODP 00007 M14-1.5 drain plug:

AGS Drain Plug

Before I do the swap, I'll coat the threads near the bolt-head with either Permatex PTFE High-temp thread sealer or a little packet of goop I found at Autozone called something like "oil drain plug seal" or thread seal. The Permatex was about $5, the tear-open packet of goop about $2, and the AGS plug about $2.

Through all this it occurs to me that I've had a low carbon footprint a good part of my driving life. Never negligent, I've been thrifty about oil changes. And now I'm thinking that waste oil, even if it only has a thousand miles of use, gets recycled anyway. With a part like the Fumoto valve, you could change your oil at any time with little inconvenience but the opportunity to drive down to the Zone or Reilly's so as to drop off five gallons for recycle. In the meantime, I'll get some miles out of the existing fresh oil with some MMO and a viscosity still somewhere in the vicinity of 30.

UPDATE: The Auto-Zone item is packaged like battery dressing or those little packets of folded sanitizing paper towels: American Grease Stick Oil Drain Plug Sealant.

This promises to make the use of the copper-ring gasket option leak-free. No need for nylon, or rubber, or cork or paper. Even so, it wouldn't hurt to cut a custom ring from a Fel-Pro rectangle. I think the assortment comes with a cork-rubber piece. But the AGS Drain Plug comes with its own non-metal gasket -- which is probably best of all.

 

[BonzaiDuck]

ANOTHER UPDATE FOR THE OLD-CLUNKER AND DIY CROWD

Sixty oil changes . . . the odds that anyone making them might forget that the oil-pan threads are limited to the thickness of the oil-pan when they torque the bolt back on . . . eventually, the bolt will show looseness in the threads when it has been screwed out more than half-way. You might console yourself that the threads are still "holding". And it's possible that there is a slight taper in these bolts. But if the threads are "holding", the bolt will be snug at the last few turns.

On the Valvomax and Fumoto products, the length of the threaded male fitting is little more than the thickness of the oil pan -- or even a bolt welded to the hole on the inside -- I don't know if that's a design and manufacturing practice, but it's possible. Not so likely, though, because no manufacturer would want to leave a puddle of oil in the pan between changes. It could be done in a corner of the pan, though. Logically, those products -- VMax and Fu -- must remain secured to the oil-pan as it drains, yet avoid leaving a half-inch-deep oil level in the bottom of the pan. One might think that the two products can more easily rattle loose if they aren't torqued on a bit. But if that's a worry, a couple dabs of Pit-Crew Automotive Adhesive on clean metal of the pan and valve exteriors should prevent it from happening. After all -- you're going to leave either the ValvoMax or the Fumoto undisturbed with every oil change.

I chose the Valvomax, if only for concerns that there isn't enough clearance on the dimpled shape of my oil-pan, and the Fumoto is longer -- therefore more susceptible to getting knocked off by a rock in the middle of Goler Wash. You can, however, buy the F10[n]S Fumoto valve -- the "S" version. I made a mistake in buying the "N" version. But I saw that the Valvomax has a good fallback with its sealed, screw-on cap.

If the damage to the bolt or threads (more likely the latter) leaves no confidence about any likelihood that it spins off toward catastrophic engine damage -- as if you could wiggle the bolt loose by rocking it back and forth without turning -- then you can buy one of a few products conceived to avoid replacing the entire oil pan. Oil pan removal on some cars may involve removal of other parts -- it's not all that simple. So it's encouraging that it can be avoided.

First, there's the oversized repair bolt spec'd to replace the original. They can be had at Autozone or O'Reilly's. ( . . and Amazon or eBay -- but you're gonna want something so simple today -- not next week). These usually show slots cut crosswise at the tip and extending up the first quarter-inch of threads. Second, there's a variety that is supposed to work like the ValvoMax and Fumoto, in that there are two bolts -- one inside the other, the smaller having fine threads and a decent thickness for a hole to allow no-delay draining. The larger bolt goes in once and stays there. Third, you can even buy a kit with a tap for cutting threads and an assortment of replacement bolts.

After that -- choose the gasket material probably recommended for the drain valve products and simple bolts as well. Fumoto and the AGS bolt feature gaskets of a rubber material. The manufacturers seem to think that the metal washer/gaskets are unnecessary, although ValvoMax includes a conventional metal washer. You can buy "rubberized fiber" gasket material in a Fel-Pro kit of rectangles. Cutting a 3/4" diameter gasket is an exercise in patience and punching along with an Xacto knife. I used two gaskets of the 1/32" thickness, dabbing the surface between them with RTV silicone adhesive/sealant. Gently thread the gaskets until they're flush and flat with the bolt-head, then apply thread sealant -- skipping the leading thread but coating 3/4 the circumference of the remaining threads. Perhaps you wouldn't coat the full length of a 3/4" long bolt, but only the quarter-inch closest to the head.

In parting, you will not likely want to have your mechanic or repair-shop diddle with your Valvomax or Fumoto. You'll have to convey the fitting and drain-hose for the Valvomax, or just provide a drain-hose for the Fumoto. Then, you'll have to brief the mechanic on how the devices operate. I wouldn't complicate their lives with it. Spend the money on asking them to re-lube your differential, transfer case, wheel-bearings -- whatever.

Anyway, that's our show for today -- "You, Your Vehicle and Your Drain Plug". Talk at ya next time! Maybe, with time, we can all get over our OCD focus on oil changes, oil puddles, oil loss and drain-plug failure.

 

[skyking]

I opted for the oil extraction can for our latest diesel purchase, a 2013 Beetle DSG. The aluminum skid plate didn't have a service door for the oil drain and I'm not going to pull a skid plate every time I want to drain the oil. it does have a paper filter element that is serviced from above. the extractor is handy for removing the excess oil from that recess.
https://humblemechanic.com/draining-engine-oil-vs-extracting-engine-oil/

I have a 40000 mile service coming up, and I can confirm how much oil is removed via extraction versus pulling the drain plug because I'll have the skid plate off to service the transmission. I'll pull the filter and extract all the oil while the car is sitting level on the ground, then I will jack it up and pull the plug and see how much was left.

 

[BonzaiDuck]

I opted for the oil extraction can for our latest diesel purchase, a 2013 Beetle DSG. The aluminum skid plate didn't have a service door for the oil drain and I'm not going to pull a skid plate every time I want to drain the oil. it does have a paper filter element that is serviced from above. the extractor is handy for removing the excess oil from that recess.
https://humblemechanic.com/draining-engine-oil-vs-extracting-engine-oil/

I have a 40000 mile service coming up, and I can confirm how much oil is removed via extraction versus pulling the drain plug because I'll have the skid plate off to service the transmission. I'll pull the filter and extract all the oil while the car is sitting level on the ground, then I will jack it up and pull the plug and see how much was left.

Your choice, for which I see no objections. If we try and save time in various ways, constructive curiosity may lead us to spend more of it. And for spending in general, I have a tendency to buy different products or versions that do the same thing, without testing them one at a time. I can always use the spare part later, and if it's cheap enough, it's not a major loss to set it aside after I've made a decision to use the alternative. Thus, I have the Fumoto F106N drain valve as a spare. The item price is approximately that of half an oil change, so it will be quickly compensated during my next oil change. The oil itself is the remaining half of what I've seen shops charge for the service when they only use conventional oil as opposed to synthetic.

As for "extraction", I was considering the possibility of doing it with my transmission, but it has come to my attention that the transmission does indeed have drain plugs. However, I do have arguments to counter your linked advisory.

Our vehicles are technically both "trucks" -- a pickup and an SUV. I don't need to jack either of them up to access the oil pan and drain plug. With a clean floor and some newspaper or a large 32-gallon plastic bag as drop cloth, I can just scoot under the front bumper of my Trooper to reach the drain plug. Those LED lights you can buy at Harbor Freight and auto-parts stores come in handy, too.

For the mess, that's indeed what appealed to me about the ValvoMax and Fumoto devices. But except for the additional mess of getting oil all over your hand and arm without the valve devices, requiring that you roll up your sleeve first, a plastic oil pan placed on top of a 2'x3' aluminum drop pan eliminates all the mess. Once I have an empty container, I can carefully pour the plastic pan into the jug so that "mistakes" are caught by the drop pan, in turn wiped clean with a couple paper towels. If I use small 1qt containers, the valve devices allow me to fill one at a time directly, but I can see how extraction to a 5-quart plastic container might offer a bit more convenience.

And -- again -- the valve devices eliminate near-term damage to the oil pan drain-hole threads.

SO HERE ARE MY RESULTS THUS FAR. The PTFE thread sealer (Permatex) does its job; the two mated rubber-fiber custom-cut gaskets do their job. I ran the car down to AutoZone to deposit the waste oil, and the ValvoMax fitting and oil-pan bottom are dry as sand. No more leaks!

AND -- here's a question I could post as a new thread. I wanted to add a quart of Marvel Mystery Oil to the mix. I can fill to 6 quarts, but the spec capacity is 5.4 quarts. Further, I don't want my oil viscosity to vary from 30, because I ordinarily use 10W-30 Synthetic. Now I've learned through a little web-research that you can freely mix and replace conventional with synthetic and vice versa. Newer formulations of synthetic oils make this possible. And of course we know that you can mix oils of different weights or viscosities.

SO -- is oil viscosity linearly proportional to mixing volume? That is -- if MMO has a viscosity of 20 or 20-weight, and I mix it with 10W-40 quart for quart, do I end up with 2 quarts of 30-weight oil? Anyway, that's what I did, mixing the result with 3.5 quarts of 10W-30 . . . .

 

[skyking]

LOL you can't even get your hand under the Beetles unless you run them up on a ramp

 

[WackyDan]

Fumoto all the way... Have them on all my vehicles. HUndreds of thousands of miles over many years now. Never a leak/failure.

I use the ones with the nipple. I hook up a tube, drain them right into my oil jug for recycling. THe only mess I have now is in changing the filters.

They do drain more slowly though. I get all the oil out too given the angle the vehicle is up at on the ramps or jack stands.

Highly recommend them.

 

[BonzaiDuck]

Fumoto all the way... Have them on all my vehicles. HUndreds of thousands of miles over many years now. Never a leak/failure.

I use the ones with the nipple. I hook up a tube, drain them right into my oil jug for recycling. THe only mess I have now is in changing the filters.

They do drain more slowly though. I get all the oil out too given the angle the vehicle is up at on the ramps or jack stands.

Highly recommend them.

I don't discount the Fumoto product. They look solid. It's just that the F106N model has a 1-inch projection with a flange or nipple. I can change it in whenever I feel dissatisfied with the Valvomax.

Of course, this was an advantage for ordering both of them. the ball-bearing valve system is similar between the two devices. I can certainly determine whether the Valvomax is effective for not leaking any oil. It's only been in the car a day or two, with two errand trips. But I removed the screw-cap and examined the rubber seal. Dry as a bone.

The biggest disadvantage arises with the need to keep track of the "second part" -- a screw-on cap with the plastic drain tube. The valve doesn't open until that cap is screwed in completely. If you lose it, I can see a quick migration to a Fumoto unless replacement can be ordered as an accessory.

Also, thinking about it some more and looking at the Valvomax as installed, the extrusion of the Fumoto F106N would not be significantly greater. There is a cross-member which sits lower from the frame than the oil pan. And thing is -- I mentioned the ordeal of driving up from the Panamints' west side into Goler Wash -- some sorts of rocky encounters are going to damage your oil pan anyway. For how I use the SUV now, it's an ephemeral worry with little weight. I don't think I should worry about it even if I resume my 4-wheelin' wildlife refuge excursions.

Also, the matter of "slower draining". How much slower could that be? I take my time. I don't restore the drain plug or close the valve until all dripping has stopped. Maybe your repair shop could worry about any extra time lost. But if you bother to let your repair shop use your Valvomax or Fumoto, you're still saving them time and effort. I'm just ruminating over how I intend to handle this new situation. I had the habit of using the annual oil change as opportunity to have the shop check for other problems or tune-up needs. Now, I'll be doing oil-changes myself, and more frequently as I wish.

 

[WackyDan]

I do my own changes so I don't worry about slow.

 

[BonzaiDuck]

I do my own changes so I don't worry about slow.

Sure -- but our colleague here was saying that his Fumoto device could be annoying for that reason. Personally, I haven't noticed much of a difference, but like you (probably), I just set up the waste pan and drop pan, unscrew the drain plug (or open the valve device we've been discussing), get out from under the car, clean my hands, and go about my other business while the oil drains.

Oil changes are probably the easiest thing for a car owner to do, even those who can't or won't aspire to being a "DIY backyard mechanic". If this were 40 years ago so the remark wouldn't be "taken the wrong way", I'd argue that "even a woman can do an oil change".

But what happens? People retire and get old. They start thinking they don't want to get their hands dirty anymore. They put away their tools, figuring to keep them for better days. They lose their objection to depending on others (a repair shop with mechanics). Or they buy a new car, arguing that "you can't take it with you, so spend it on a new car" and then have the dealership do oil changes. And personally, I could embrace the idea that I had no hydraulic hoist in my garage, that you'd most incline to using a hydraulic lift to change oil -- so give it to the repair shop.

The valve devices just change the perceptions about that, especially if you don't even really need to jack up the car to do the oil change. Then it's mostly about potential messes and disposal. Avoiding the mess is easy with the right preparation. And, Furchrissake! I didn't even learn that Autozone and Reilly's will take waste oil for recycle until last year! I'd been hauling that stuff with other toxic chemicals across town to the county's hazardous household waste collection site! It was like something that required a specially planned trip, so more inconvenience! So I just told myself again "Let the repair shop handle it!"

All of these little details dawned on me over the last year, when I stopped ignoring my vehicle after my longstanding mechanic retired. For at least a few years, I would discuss with him -- then later with repair shops I hoped would replace him -- my relatively minor (but messy) transmission leaks and what I thought was a leaky rear main seal of the engine. I'd get these stories, like "You don't need to do anything with the tranny now; save your money and you can overhaul it next year"; "Oh, it'll probably cost you $1,000 or more to take care of that rear main seal!" The tranny I explained: the attachment bolts only needed tightening to factory spec to eliminate that leak -- according to the factory shop manual, and proven by me last year. But they knew I didn't want to get under my car anymore, so they could hide the truth from me and reap the profits from unnecessary repair work. With that, they didn't tell me that there was no rear main seal leak and that the oil was coming from the drain plug! They figured eventually that I'd come in and ask them to swap in a new rear main seal!

So -- I say -- keep those bib overalls ready, organize your toolbox, buy your own oil and do your changes, until you're over 80 years old and need a walker to get around!

We're turning into a country of pussies! A buncha senior-citizen sissies, I say! So when the day comes that I punch out from this world, doing it gracefully could mean dying with a crescent wrench in my cold, withered, dead hands. And if it happens before I complete my "last repair", well, I won't be driving the Trooper anymore, anyway. Maybe they can just bury me and the entire SUV like a mobile tomb, so I'm propped up in the driver's seat with my hands on the steering wheel. That would be a good one for some archaeologist or anthropologist digging up graves in the future! Wouldn't it?! I'll bet that they don't find any oil leaks, contaminating the ravaged environment of the Fuu-tshure!

 

[skyking]

That hands dirty thing is one of the reasons I got the oil extractor. If it gets enough oil out of the 2013 beetle I'll start using it on the other ones too. I'll always slide a 5 gallon bucket under the diesel truck and use the standard drain plug on that one it's a once-a-year event. There's really no other way to do that one because three gallons do come out of it

 

[BonzaiDuck]

That hands dirty thing is one of the reasons I got the oil extractor. If it gets enough oil out of the 2013 beetle I'll start using it on the other ones too. I'll always slide a 5 gallon bucket under the diesel truck and use the standard drain plug on that one it's a once-a-year event. There's really no other way to do that one because three gallons do come out of it

Same reason for the ValvoMax or Fumoto. Either way -- you either have to pay for the extractor, or buy the valve and make the one-time installation.

As anyone can see from my posts on this thread, I'm all revved up over something so inconsequential as oil changes. I've made some profound discoveries with all of it.

Also, I imagine I'm experiencing some sort of placebo effect with the Marvel Mystery oil and a few extra surplus ounces of synthetic 30-weight. I THINK the car runs like a well-oiled roller skate -- that it's somehow "better". I THINK it feels that way. It feels smoother at cold idle, smoother at warm idle, and smoother on the road.

I used to be just "responsible" about oil changes -- didn't want to spend more than necessary. I imagined that the only way I could measure oil consumption (burning and leaking) required me to go the full 3,000 miles between changes, but it doesn't. The smog-test results -- this year for the 25 mph test in PPM for HC of 11 vs 36 "max", % CO of 0.01 vs 0.51 "max", and PPM NOx of 207 vs 523 max -- suggests to me that I'm not burning any oil. The HC and CO measured results are significantly lower than they were in 2002 when I bought the car -- 90,000 miles ago. The NOx was actually 189/523 in 2018, but back in 2004 it was something like 320. The leaks are gone. And I've never really had to top off the oil when I let it go the full 3,000 between changes. Never replaced the rings; never replaced pistons; never had the cylinder walls honed; never replaced any head gaskets -- never been overhauled.

I've got it into my head that I can change my oil every 1,000 miles if I please. It's going to get recycled, so I'm no less "green" except for just buying more of the stuff. I'll only spend about $22 per 5-quart container, maybe every four months.

If you love your vehicle, baby that sucker to death!

 

[BonzaiDuck]

AND BY THE WAY -- GLAD THAT I REMEMBERED . . . . .

Consider the price differential between "economy" and "performance" oil filters "Economy" might cost you $4 to $6.

Departing from a repair shop visit some 9 months ago, where they installed a scrawny black oil filter that was short on branding and model indications, I decided to spring for a WIX XP filter. The XP filter touts filtering at a smaller micron level, promises to be good with synthetic oils, boasts of being effective at something short of 10,000 miles are maybe closer to 7,000. There's dozens of brands: you got yur STP, your FRAM, your Bosch, your ACDelco, Motorcraft, Mobil1, K&N . . . . WIX. They all make "performance" filters to some superior spec.

WIX XP series review -- "Is it worth it?"

Considering what I quoted as a range for "Economy", I spent about $13 on the WIX XP. I'm sure you could even spend $50 on an oil filter -- some of those are not for discard, and they're meant for cleaning or rejuvenating and reinstallation. Hell! I'll buy a filter and use IT for 3,000 miles, while changing the oil ever 1K to 1.5K. Oh-ma-gosh! Ah'm spendin' just SO . . MUCH . . . MONE-EEEY -- keepin' my ol' Trooper alive! Such a spendthrift! I'm goin' to Hell!!

 

[mindless1]

Good grief, you've already spent more time on this than it would take to ratchet off a pan bolt the few times you're going to need to continue doing it on a 25 y/o vehicle.

The thing about DIY on an old vehicle is Just Do It, do not make a molehill into a mountain and do not try to find ways to make a repair more expensive than it needs to be, except for avoiding generic Chinese garbage parts.

 

[BonzaiDuck]

Good grief, you've already spent more time on this than it would take to ratchet off a pan bolt the few times you're going to need to continue doing it on a 25 y/o vehicle.

The thing about DIY on an old vehicle is Just Do It, do not make a molehill into a mountain and do not try to find ways to make a repair more expensive than it needs to be, except for avoiding generic Chinese garbage parts.

Yeah . . . . I can sit here, eat breakfast, watch bad news on TV, and rattle this stuff off all at once. The web-searches didn't take long. I suppose this is where necessary life-maintenance and basic transportation service turns into a sort of periodic hobby. I've got a "plan" for the remainder of the year: pack wheel-bearings, replace transfer case and axle oil, then -- replace the tires. That puts me "on top". Nothing to do but find excuses to drive it . . .

Oh, yeah. This was also the year for the fog-lights project. Screw the light bar; I'm going with 3x3" RIGID LED pod lights and mount them on the year-old bull-bar-grille guard. Forget modifying the bumper. If we had that much fog around here, I'd want them closer to the ground, but it's not that much difference.

 

[zinfamous]

I opted for the oil extraction can for our latest diesel purchase, a 2013 Beetle DSG. The aluminum skid plate didn't have a service door for the oil drain and I'm not going to pull a skid plate every time I want to drain the oil. it does have a paper filter element that is serviced from above. the extractor is handy for removing the excess oil from that recess.
https://humblemechanic.com/draining-engine-oil-vs-extracting-engine-oil/

I have a 40000 mile service coming up, and I can confirm how much oil is removed via extraction versus pulling the drain plug because I'll have the skid plate off to service the transmission. I'll pull the filter and extract all the oil while the car is sitting level on the ground, then I will jack it up and pull the plug and see how much was left.

I'm getting one of these soon--waiting for the model to come back in stock at Shopdap.com (I'm detecting sketchiness in the "EWK" version that Amazon sells).

I like that the oil filter is top-mounted, so I never have to climb under the car to drain the oil, and also worry about the plastic oil pan and drain plug (speaking of, I do feel a bit sketchy about never replacing the drain plug with this method--is that something I should actually consider long-term? I assume it's got a little gasket in there that will eventually shit the bed, right?).

In HM's latest video, he tested this with his new Golf R, and it looks like the extractor left around 200ml in the pan, which seems quite tolerable. This has all been tossed around and mixed before the change, so it's not like it's the sludge just sitting in the bottom. Also not sure if he took the time to keep snaking the hose in as far as it can go...and I've also read that parking on a slight downslope--hood angled down--helps to pool more oil where the hose can reach it.

 

[skyking]

I get to play with a little bit as I will have the belly pan off the car for the transmission service. I can try jacking up one side or running it up on a wood block to see if I get more oil where the dipstick is.

 

[tracerbullet]

If anyone goes for an extractor, please be sure to keep the important bits sealed up between uses, i.e. in a heavy plastic bag. If it's hanging out on a garage shelf for a few months collecting dirt and everything else, you should not even consider jamming it into the engine again.

You might also want to pull up some images of replacement OEM oil pans for your vehicle, so you can check for internal baffles and such that might prevent you from getting out everything you expect.

Also keep in mind that you'll need to be slightly more certain about how much oil you add later. Don't assume that it's all drained and then go add the recommended amount. It might be too much.

I'm sure the extractor can be made to work well but just keep some things in mind.

 

[TXHokie]

I had a Fumoto (or look alike) in my old Toyota long time ago. It was convenient then since I lived in a townhouse and didn't want to do change on a ramp in shared parking. This device made it easy since I just slide a flat container under the car. Only complain was that it really slow down the flow of oil since the opening is smaller.
Fast forward, I'm too lazy to do DIY oil change anymore - not worth the hassle.