Massive Fps Drops

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Jul 12, 2013
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Awesome. You're good to go with that HDD. That should save you around $70. I'll type up the information about your processor upgrade (crash course in socket types and TDP) and try to answer your other questions tomorrow. Bed time for now. Long day...


Awesome, I apologize for not responding quicker.

Okay thank you very much, I will definitely appreciate that info.

I will be responding to John Dime next. I will combine both of his posts and reply accordingly; thank you for your patience John Dime.
 
Jul 12, 2013
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Regarding the GPU usage percentage I've been going on about - this pertains primarily to the core and memory clocks. The HD 5770 has its default top clocks at 850 and 1200 MHz, respectively. As you may have noticed, it idles at 157 and 300 MHz, respectively. Now, once the GPU is stressed past a certain point, much like how it happens with CPU's and their C states, the GPU will resort to another clock state in order to provide sufficient rendering power to process whatever's thrown its way, up until it reaches the highest clock state, which by default is the former (850 and 1200 MHz). I'm omitting the details on clock states to try and keep it succinct, but you can consult them here, on the BIOS Internals table.

The particular column I've been referring to, on the GPU-Z log, should read GPU Load [%] and present values within the interval 0-100. It's the percentage of load on the GPU clocks, simply put. To gain some headroom, you push those 850/1200 numbers a little further, the so called over-clocking, which will, if the GPU is constantly loaded at or above 90% of its capacity (while gaming, for instance), give you some more rendering power and provide slightly smoother gaming, hopefully. Given that you keep asking about averages: not to confuse you further, but the load percentage on the log, as well as every other value, is indeed an average, given that the log will have information added every 1 second and the values change more often than that. Otherwise, for most intents and purposes, you can consider it an instantaneous reading. I hope I've been clear, this time.

The second relevant clarification I would like to make is regarding motherboard CPU compatibility. From what I gather, the top CPU you want to use with that motherboard is indeed the Phenom II X4 840 (check this). Your current CPU has a TDP of 65 W -> X4 840 = 95 W -> X4 955 = 125 W. We're talking about nearly doubling the TDP of the processor if you opt for the X4 955, which isn't a good idea at all. Furthermore, I've read 2 or 3 topics on the matter, on the Dell forums, where people wanted to upgrade their CPU with the same motherboard, and the best it could handle was indeed the X4 840.

Frankly, if you acquire the X4 840 + 2 GB more of RAM and install the 64 bit version of Windows 7, you should be fine running most pre-2013 games on medium settings, at 1080p (rough estimate), provided that you don't come across any thermal issue, which running that CPU at stock voltages shouldn't incite. Again, this incremental upgrade isn't ideal, because it's a matter of time until your virtual endeavours require more power, but for now, given that you are willing to spend a little over $100 on a temporary solution, that should relieve your system.

A side note: the main differences between [P]ATA and SATA are a slight speed increase from the latter over the former and different connectors. You can read more on the Web, but that pretty much covers the relevant points.

JD



[FONT=&quot]Okay so I’m combining both of your posts to respond accordingly.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]I was unaware that graphics cards took up ram to run; I had thought that the 1gb of video ram was just added RAM for games. Now that I understand better I could see how this would take memory in order to run. I should have realized this because I understand RAM pretty well for the most part. Thank you for opening my eyes to this.[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot][/FONT]



[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Considering I only see 784 free, I am assuming this is a huge issue, especially when trying to run highly demanding games; by the way thank you for the article I will have to look into this when I get some free time.[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot][/FONT]

[FONT=&quot][/FONT]


[FONT=&quot]I will confirm if my GPU-z shows bottlenecking conditions in about a day or two; I apologize I have just been extremely busy.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]Okay, I understand OEM now: expendable PCs. Ridiculous this even happens, but money is money I suppose.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] As far as the Phenom II x4 955 is concerned I found this:[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]http://www.overclock.net/t/806578/its-here/30[/FONT][FONT=&quot][/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]He seemed to install it, but overclocking seems to be an issue.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]I’m not sure how my PC would handle this, but I may have enough power, 500w; I don’t know how much watts I have free though, any ideas on using my tools to find out?[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]I may have to get a new processor fan, in which I may ask both of you for recommendations.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]“A bit of good news now (potentially) - according to the last post [/FONT][FONT=&quot]here[/FONT][FONT=&quot], and take it for what it is, someone's opinion and something of which they aren't completely sure, that user indicates the motherboard in question may be a standard Micro ATX board, which would allow you to replace only the motherboard, the CPU and the RAM, for now. If you follow the i5-3570K route, as suggested here and endorsed by myself, who happens to own one, you can get away with buying a Micro ATX board, the CPU and 8 GB of RAM for what, $350-400? I'm not big on US prices, living in Europe and all, but that rough estimate sounds accurate enough - BigChickenJim to the rescue here!”[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Are you saying that I can keep my mobo?[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]As far as MSI Afterburner goes, I won’t be messing with this.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]I tried over ten different methods to remove drivers for CCC and all AMD drivers, but it only screws things up forcing me to go back to SYSTEM RESTORE points; RadeonPro is awesome for the most part.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]“The particular column I've been referring to, on the GPU-Z log, should read GPU Load [%] and present values within the interval 0-100. It's the percentage of load on the GPU clocks, simply put. To gain some headroom, you push those 850/1200 numbers a little further, the so called over-clocking, which will, if the GPU is constantly loaded at or above 90% of its capacity (while gaming, for instance), give you some more rendering power and provide slightly smoother gaming, hopefully. Given that you keep asking about averages: not to confuse you further, but the load percentage on the log, as well as every other value, is indeed an average, given that the log will have information added every 1 second and the values change more often than that. Otherwise, for most intents and purposes, you can consider it an instantaneous reading. I hope I've been clear, this time.”[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]This definitely cleared up a lot; you’ll have to forgive me, sleep doesn’t get had very often around here haha. I’ll be checking this out very soon and I’ll let you know what’s going on.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Thank you for the overclock info this is very much appreciated, I have actually overclocked at one point pushing it past its limits (serious miscalculation which lead to yet another SYSTEM RESTORE), so I assume you called it for MSI Afterburner. (I used CCC back when it worked to overclock.)[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]“The second relevant clarification I would like to make is regarding motherboard CPU compatibility. From what I gather, the top CPU you want to use with that motherboard is indeed the Phenom II X4 840 (check [/FONT][FONT=&quot]this[/FONT][FONT=&quot]). Your current CPU has a TDP of 65 W -> X4 840 = 95 W -> X4 955 = 125 W. We're talking about nearly doubling the TDP of the processor if you opt for the X4 955, which isn't a good idea at all. Furthermore, I've read 2 or 3 topics on the matter, on the Dell forums, where people wanted to upgrade their CPU with the same motherboard, and the best it could handle was indeed the X4 840.”[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]I’m a bit confused on this: I understand (From wiki) “The thermal design power (TDP), sometimes called thermal design point, refers to the maximum amount of [/FONT][FONT=&quot]power[/FONT][FONT=&quot] the [/FONT][FONT=&quot]cooling system[/FONT][FONT=&quot] in a computer is required to [/FONT][FONT=&quot]dissipate[/FONT][FONT=&quot].”[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Can my PSU affect this?[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Also doesn't this mean I would only require a better CPU fan for that specific issue?[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Hopefully that link helps shed some light on this being a possibility(Phenom II x4 955); it has definitely lead me to speculation, although this is only one article that I have found proving it to be possible.(safe or unsafe, I am unsure.)[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]“Frankly, if you acquire the X4 840 + 2 GB more of RAM and install the 64 bit version of Windows 7, you should be fine running most pre-2013 games on medium settings, at 1080p (rough estimate), provided that you don't come across any thermal issue, which running that CPU at stock voltages shouldn't incite. Again, this incremental upgrade isn't ideal, because it's a matter of time until your virtual endeavours require more power, but for now, given that you are willing to spend a little over $100 on a temporary solution, that should relieve your system.”[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] I totally appreciate your help. I would at least like to be able to run new games on 720p with medium-high settings (hoping it still looks and runs better than XBOX360) on most 2013+ games, but that is just what I am hoping for. I’d like to be able to have those specifics and still run at the very least 30 fps. I am sure my 650$ system will please me, but playing some new games at lower settings would still be awesome.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]
“A side note: the main differences between [P]ATA and SATA are a slight speed increase from the latter over the former and different connectors. You can read more on the Web, but that pretty much covers the relevant points.”[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]So is my HDD still a good choice to blend into the new upgrade, considering it is an ATA?[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]I may be just getting my hopes up on this temp upgrade, but I appreciate all the help everyone has given me, including the patience.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Thank John Dime, you've been a great help.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
By the way just did a quick test with this browser open and Call of Duty 4: Modern Warefare playing. HAHAHAHA wow just wow, running off of pure Virtual Memory( granted I have this set pretty awesome from what I'm to understand; it definitely runs awesome considering the amount of free physical memory here ).


I was even using GameBooster, which frees around 100mb of memory.


[FONT=&quot] I think it’s about time I get at the very least a memory upgrade and upgrade to 64bit ( running 32bit Windows 7 on VMware if I have any issues; I have still read about issues even with it's 32bit emulator); any ideas on memory upgrades for this mobo?




[/FONT]
I could see going to Windows XP to free up some RAM, but performance, in my experience, has been lower on Windows XP opposed to Windows 7; I did these comparisons almost back to back.
 

John Dime

Member
May 6, 2013
71
0
0
Considering I only see 784 free, I am assuming this is a huge issue, especially when trying to run highly demanding games.

Are you saying that I can keep my mobo?

As mentioned, 32 bit applications, which most games are, will use up to 2 GB of RAM by default, in most cases. Surely, anything below that level may affect performance - I don't know what else you were running there, but that amount of free RAM, once filled, will cause massive FPS drops... which just so happens to be the title of your thread! If you know about RAM, you'll know it's a storage point for data, significantly faster to read from than the hard drive. Resorting to virtual memory is resorting to the HD and once you're out of physical memory and the system is left to access virtual memory, the speed of RAM vs. HD gives notice. Given that we've found this egregious culprit, I'm fairly certain that updating to the 64 bit version of Windows and adding at least 2 GB more of RAM, will relieve your system.

Regarding the motherboard question, it comes down to what you want. You've now made clear that you intend to try this year's games and even though a newer CPU (say, i5-2500K and above) will benefit game-play in comparison to a stock X4 955, the most relevant part of hardware and subsequently the one that gets stressed the most, is undoubtedly the GPU. Furthermore, well-founded conclusions have been frequently drawn, pointing how many games do not take advantage of a 2500K over-clocked past a certain point, at 1080p. Therefore, if you wish to keep that motherboard, and according to the thread you found, it will support the X4 955, your computer may be able to handle recent titles at 720p, without the extra glitter, at medium-low settings (thinking along the lines of Crysis 3 and Far Cry 3) - weighing in the remainder of your system, assuming 2 GB more with a 64 bit OS and as noted, the X4 955. So if you want access to this right now, go for it. If you already have the 64 bit OS, then it likely won't be that much over $100 for you to upgrade that system without setting reason aside, meaning, there will be no point in investing further beyond that on a system based on DDR2, ATA and an outdated CPU compatibility list. However, do keep in mind that we don't have any further input on that thread. And this pertains to my following point...

I’m a bit confused on this: I understand (From wiki) “The thermal design power (TDP), sometimes called thermal design point, refers to the maximum amount of power the cooling system in a computer is required to dissipate.”


Can my PSU affect this?
Also doesn't this mean I would only require a better CPU fan for that specific issue?

My concern with the X4 955 being used on that motherboard relates to its high TDP. The TDP, as you properly understood from examining the articles, is "the maximum amount of power the cooling system in a computer is required to dissipate.", but what you should be considering here is the previous step. The power is there to be dissipated, because it was induced. The problem with inducing higher and higher amounts of power to a system that has not been designed to cope (assuming your motherboard hasn't, and that's why I would like further commentary on how the system reacted overtime in that person's case), can lead to rapid degradation and deem the system useless. A decent cooler could be able to address this issue as you suggest with the follow-up question, but I don't know whether there is sufficient airflow inside the case in the first place, nor how robust of an heat sink that motherboard and tower can support, where height, width and weight are concerned. As for your PSU, 500 W are plenty, if it is indeed capable of providing that wattage. I'm assuming you added that part afterwards as happened with the GPU, so you should be fine there.

Even if we are to conclude that the X4 955 won't constitute a thermal problem, bearing in mind all of the points above, I would opt for the cheapest of the two (955 vs. 840). The 955 has the L3 cache which does sit well with some games, but for the level you're aiming at, the 840 will do just fine. You can watch this (6 videos total), where incidentally someone using a system similar to yours - if you get the X4 840 - gets acceptable FPS playing such games as Metro 2033 (check video 5). They don't make them much more demanding than that.

As a side note, the X4 820 has 4 MB of L3 cache, but the clock is 400 MHz inferior and given that you can't over-clock, it may not seem the brightest of options, but we're talking about doubling your current amount of cores and adding 4 MB of L3 cache per each - that would certainly improve your gaming experience and suffice until the upcoming upgrade.

I tried over ten different methods to remove drivers for CCC and all AMD drivers, but it only screws things up forcing me to go back to SYSTEM RESTORE points; RadeonPro is awesome for the most part.

I think it’s about time I get at the very least a memory upgrade and upgrade to 64bit ( running 32bit Windows 7 on VMware if I have any issues; I have still read about issues even with it's 32bit emulator); any ideas on memory upgrades for this mobo?

I could see going to Windows XP to free up some RAM, but performance, in my experience, has been lower on Windows XP opposed to Windows 7; I did these comparisons almost back to back.

If you're satisfied with RadeonPro, there's no need to go further, but what I'm wondering about is why you're having issues getting rid of the drivers and having issues that require you to restore the system in the first place. Hopefully though, once you get the 64 bit version up and running, assuming you'll do a fresh install, that should all go away.

As I've mentioned in the beginning of the post, the memory situation does seem overdue. That should address some of your FPS drops, from what I can tell. As far as what type of RAM you should be looking for, any low-profile 2 GB PC2-6400 DDR2 module should do. No need to go fancy here, but I don't feel comfortable making a suggestion any more specific than this, due to pricing. If BigChickenJim is still around, I think he can be of more service here than I can.

A small point: regarding the compatibility issues with the 64 bit version, what you can do if you encounter these at all is to consider running Windows XP on the VM instead of Windows 7, since you appear to have it available.

So is my HDD still a good choice to blend into the new upgrade, considering it is an ATA?

At most, you'll need an IDE to SATA cable, if the motherboard doesn't support the current connector, otherwise, you should be set with it - it spins at 7.200 RPM and has 16 MB of cache. Sufficient.

JD
 
Jul 12, 2013
144
0
71
As mentioned, 32 bit applications, which most games are, will use up to 2 GB of RAM by default, in most cases. Surely, anything below that level may affect performance - I don't know what else you were running there, but that amount of free RAM, once filled, will cause massive FPS drops... which just so happens to be the title of your thread! If you know about RAM, you'll know it's a storage point for data, significantly faster to read from than the hard drive. Resorting to virtual memory is resorting to the HD and once you're out of physical memory and the system is left to access virtual memory, the speed of RAM vs. HD gives notice. Given that we've found this egregious culprit, I'm fairly certain that updating to the 64 bit version of Windows and adding at least 2 GB more of RAM, will relieve your system.

Regarding the motherboard question, it comes down to what you want. You've now made clear that you intend to try this year's games and even though a newer CPU (say, i5-2500K and above) will benefit game-play in comparison to a stock X4 955, the most relevant part of hardware and subsequently the one that gets stressed the most, is undoubtedly the GPU. Furthermore, well-founded conclusions have been frequently drawn, pointing how many games do not take advantage of a 2500K over-clocked past a certain point, at 1080p. Therefore, if you wish to keep that motherboard, and according to the thread you found, it will support the X4 955, your computer may be able to handle recent titles at 720p, without the extra glitter, at medium-low settings (thinking along the lines of Crysis 3 and Far Cry 3) - weighing in the remainder of your system, assuming 2 GB more with a 64 bit OS and as noted, the X4 955. So if you want access to this right now, go for it. If you already have the 64 bit OS, then it likely won't be that much over $100 for you to upgrade that system without setting reason aside, meaning, there will be no point in investing further beyond that on a system based on DDR2, ATA and an outdated CPU compatibility list. However, do keep in mind that we don't have any further input on that thread. And this pertains to my following point...



My concern with the X4 955 being used on that motherboard relates to its high TDP. The TDP, as you properly understood from examining the articles, is "the maximum amount of power the cooling system in a computer is required to dissipate.", but what you should be considering here is the previous step. The power is there to be dissipated, because it was induced. The problem with inducing higher and higher amounts of power to a system that has not been designed to cope (assuming your motherboard hasn't, and that's why I would like further commentary on how the system reacted overtime in that person's case), can lead to rapid degradation and deem the system useless. A decent cooler could be able to address this issue as you suggest with the follow-up question, but I don't know whether there is sufficient airflow inside the case in the first place, nor how robust of an heat sink that motherboard and tower can support, where height, width and weight are concerned. As for your PSU, 500 W are plenty, if it is indeed capable of providing that wattage. I'm assuming you added that part afterwards as happened with the GPU, so you should be fine there.

Even if we are to conclude that the X4 955 won't constitute a thermal problem, bearing in mind all of the points above, I would opt for the cheapest of the two (955 vs. 840). The 955 has the L3 cache which does sit well with some games, but for the level you're aiming at, the 840 will do just fine. You can watch this (6 videos total), where incidentally someone using a system similar to yours - if you get the X4 840 - gets acceptable FPS playing such games as Metro 2033 (check video 5). They don't make them much more demanding than that.

As a side note, the X4 820 has 4 MB of L3 cache, but the clock is 400 MHz inferior and given that you can't over-clock, it may not seem the brightest of options, but we're talking about doubling your current amount of cores and adding 4 MB of L3 cache per each - that would certainly improve your gaming experience and suffice until the upcoming upgrade.







If you're satisfied with RadeonPro, there's no need to go further, but what I'm wondering about is why you're having issues getting rid of the drivers and having issues that require you to restore the system in the first place. Hopefully though, once you get the 64 bit version up and running, assuming you'll do a fresh install, that should all go away.

As I've mentioned in the beginning of the post, the memory situation does seem overdue. That should address some of your FPS drops, from what I can tell. As far as what type of RAM you should be looking for, any low-profile 2 GB PC2-6400 DDR2 module should do. No need to go fancy here, but I don't feel comfortable making a suggestion any more specific than this, due to pricing. If BigChickenJim is still around, I think he can be of more service here than I can.

A small point: regarding the compatibility issues with the 64 bit version, what you can do if you encounter these at all is to consider running Windows XP on the VM instead of Windows 7, since you appear to have it available.



At most, you'll need an IDE to SATA cable, if the motherboard doesn't support the current connector, otherwise, you should be set with it - it spins at 7.200 RPM and has 16 MB of cache. Sufficient.

JD



Thank you for all your help, It is well appreciated; hopefully you don't mind a few more questions.


"As mentioned, 32 bit applications, which most games are, will use up to 2 GB of RAM by default, in most cases."

Are you speaking of newer titles? If this is the case I am in the negatives for physical memory.


As far as what I was running, absolutely the basics; at least the first test, I'm not even sure I had my anti-virus on, but as you've seen now I'm sure, I end up with zero when just running COD4:MW.

I didn't know that, thank you for the information; I just knew what RAM does in general, I had no idea the comparisons between the two, other than one was drawn from the HDD and one from my memory sticks. That definitely makes sense.

I'm glad to read you say "relieve the system".
I will probably be doing this soon.


"your computer may be able to handle recent titles at 720p, without the extra glitter, at medium-low settings"

So would you say this would play at 60fps or at least a steady 45fps; also would you say these settings would be better than my XBOX360 Elite?(Graphics detail and speed)

I believe I will upgrade this system first; also I see your point about any further upgrades past that being irrelevant.


"The problem with inducing higher and higher amounts of power to a system that has not been designed to cope (assuming your motherboard hasn't, and that's why I would like further commentary on how the system reacted overtime in that person's case), can lead to rapid degradation and deem the system useless."

What other factors should I consider other than cooling; is this the biggest issue?

The case itself would probably have no issues staying cool, at least in my opinion, but I do see your concern. As far as the heat sink goes, what are some good smaller sized heat sinks, if you know any and don't mind sharing.

My PSU is an CoolMax 500w, so it's definitely capable; I assume you didn't want to go through 70+ posts to find that out haha.

As far as going with the 840, I wasn't pleased with the results enough to purchase this processor; I do appreciate the suggestion though.

Most of those games seemed a bit outdated; most of the games that run steady, a.k.a. Skyrim etc., seem to run better than these video captures and although I will note the video is in 480p, it still seems to be less detail than what I normally push.

I would post a Skyrim photo, but I doubt it would matter considering all the variables involved.

I will note that Skyrim could have been created for both high and low demanding systems and RAM could also play a big part here.


Thank you for the RAM suggestion and I will just ask BigChickenJim in a PM if he doesn't respond anymore.


"A small point: regarding the compatibility issues with the 64 bit version, what you can do if you encounter these at all is to consider running Windows XP on the VM instead of Windows 7, since you appear to have it available."


Well the only issue I have with running Windows XP is the noticeable difference in performance. Sure, I could tweak it out, but I doubt that would help much; thank you for this suggestion though. One day I want to have a dual-boot set up, a dedicated external HDD OS, and all Windows and other OSes set up virtually on one system; due to many issues, including the inability to install a Windows XP after Windows 7, I have settled with Windows 7. Hopefully soon I can get a career in IT and stay with the times haha. Lack of space sucks, to put it bluntly.

I believe once I upgrade to 64bit that I will see a significant difference even without the extra memory if I use ReadyBoost. Also I have found something called AMD Radeon RAM Disk.

http://www.radeonmemory.com/software_4.0.php

I think it will help, but I haven't given it much examination.

I'm glad to read my HDD will not have to be replaced with the later upgrade.

Thank you very much for your time and patience.
 

John Dime

Member
May 6, 2013
71
0
0
Are you speaking of newer titles? If this is the case I am in the negatives for physical memory.

32 bit applications in general, which most games are, therefore most games will use up to 2 GB of RAM on a 32 bit OS, unless the 3 GB switch is on, as I briefly addressed on post #69. On a 64 bit OS however, 32 bit applications can use up to 4 GB of RAM.

So would you say this would play at 60fps or at least a steady 45fps; also would you say these settings would be better than my XBOX360 Elite?(Graphics detail and speed)

It depends on the game, but if we consider some of the most demanding titles such as Crysis 3, Far Cry 3 and both Metro titles, then I would very roughly estimate you to be able to draw an average of 35-40 FPS at 720p, with Medium settings, AA turned off, paired with a X4 955. Overall, if you're going to stay at that resolution, everything should be playable if you're prepared to tweak the settings somewhat, even though I would estimate less demanding titles to run fairly smoothly, 40-50 FPS, with the same set up, at High settings. From what I gather, and I'm not too aware of consoles nowadays so you'll probably know more about the subject than myself, most games run at 30 FPS and at a resolution of up to 1080p. If this is so, you may not be able to top the detail on those recent games just yet with your set up, already including the new processor and 64 bit OS/memory upgrade, but you won't be too far off. Essentially, there's only so much the HD 5770 will do too. If we consider the HD 5850, which came out 4 years ago and is around 35-40% faster than the HD 5770, it's already a GPU that will only saturate earlier 4-core processors moderately over-clocked. For you to leave the consoles behind and let us discard the upcoming generation, you probably need a GPU along the lines of a HD 7850. Again, not the most knowledgeable fellow when it comes to consoles, but from the little I've read, even though I may be a little off, up or down, the HD 7850 is vastly superior to the HD 5770 and quite cheap nowadays. Something to consider when you go for the thorough overhaul.

What other factors should I consider other than cooling; is this the biggest issue?

The case itself would probably have no issues staying cool, at least in my opinion, but I do see your concern. As far as the heat sink goes, what are some good smaller sized heat sinks, if you know any and don't mind sharing.

If you're talking about the processor alone, then proper cooling is all you'll have to worry about. There's plenty of software available to monitor CPU temperatures, which I advise you to install once the new processor is on-board. There won't be any over-clocking involved, which means the stock cooler should be able to handle the default voltages, provided that the air doesn't get too warm inside the case. I don't know what temperatures you have there, but where I'm at, I wouldn't take my chances unless I knew the case was able to exhaust warm air at a decent enough rate not to cause any unwanted over-heating. If you're getting the CPU and the stock cooler, analyse the temperatures afterwards. We still don't know whether you'll have an issue there as up until now we've only been speculating to be on the safe side, but if it comes to that, we can go through a selection of adequate candidates to cool the CPU in alternative to the stock heat sink. Let us know if you'll acquire the CPU with the stock cooler or not.

My PSU is an CoolMax 500w, so it's definitely capable; I assume you didn't want to go through 70+ posts to find that out haha.

Did I miss that? Memory no longer in its prime hehe thanks for the rectification.

As far as going with the 840, I wasn't pleased with the results enough to purchase this processor; I do appreciate the suggestion though.

Most of those games seemed a bit outdated; most of the games that run steady, a.k.a. Skyrim etc., seem to run better than these video captures and although I will note the video is in 480p, it still seems to be less detail than what I normally push.

I would post a Skyrim photo, but I doubt it would matter considering all the variables involved.

I will note that Skyrim could have been created for both high and low demanding systems and RAM could also play a big part here.

I'm still curious to know of the impact the OS and RAM upgrades will have on your gaming experience. With that in mind, there's no denying a 4-core CPU will vastly surpass your current X2 240 and while I can't egregiously consider the X4 955 the best option, all things considered, that L3 cache, which for some reason AMD included on the X4 820 but not on the X4 840, can be seen making a difference in games - scroll down on this page to check L3 cache versus no L3 cache in games. Slightly archaic resolutions, but it gives you an idea.

Well the only issue I have with running Windows XP is the noticeable difference in performance. Sure, I could tweak it out, but I doubt that would help much; thank you for this suggestion though. One day I want to have a dual-boot set up, a dedicated external HDD OS, and all Windows and other OSes set up virtually on one system; due to many issues, including the inability to install a Windows XP after Windows 7, I have settled with Windows 7. Hopefully soon I can get a career in IT and stay with the times haha. Lack of space sucks, to put it bluntly.

Sounds good. Don't forget the old folks here when you become Gates' beer buddy!

I believe once I upgrade to 64bit that I will see a significant difference even without the extra memory if I use ReadyBoost. Also I have found something called AMD Radeon RAM Disk.

http://www.radeonmemory.com/software_4.0.php

I think it will help, but I haven't given it much examination.

ReadyBoost is fine, but it's no match for RAM, speed wise. You should be fine with another 2 GB, until you get to DDR3, or DDR4. As for AMD Radeon RAM Disk the way it works is, you resort to RAM memory as you would to a HDD or SSD, meaning that you can use it to speed up reading/writing time of applications, but because RAM gets reset when the power goes off, you have to rebuild the data every time you boot into the OS. I'm afraid it will have no use for you, not in the way you implied it could, as it's something to take advantage of RAM as ultra-fast storage, rather than increasing RAM availability in any way. I hope that cleared it.

Keep us posted with the upgrade progress, whenever possible.

JD
 

BigChickenJim

Senior member
Jul 1, 2013
239
0
0
I'm still here, my friend. JD is doing a spectacular job and I have a child due any day now, so I haven't felt the need to chime in for a little bit.

I'd just like to reiterate that based on what I now know about your rig I believe you'll have some pretty wicked cooling issues if you opt to go with a temporary CPU upgrade. As JD said, even a 95 watt TDP chip is likely to raise your mobo and case temps to unsafe levels, so a 125 watt TDP chip like the 955 is virtually guaranteed to. I foolishly mentioned the 955 before I had all of your system details; now that I've seen them I feel an obligation to warn you about the potentially disastrous issues that could arise from placing a high-TDP chip in a poorly cooled (comparatively speaking) mid-tower OEM system, especially one with a micro-atx board that is probably burdened by poor power phasing and sinkless VRMs. In basic terms: heat is going to be a big issue in your current system no matter which upgrade you choose, so much so that I question the wisdom of any upgrade at all.

I'm still not convinced an OS/RAM upgrade is going to fix your problems, but JD seems like a very knowledgeable gentleman so I'll reserve judgement until you've done it. My guess is that you'll see a marginal performance increase, but you're still going to bottlenecked severely by your CPU and, as I said above, any significant CPU upgrade is likely to do more harm than good. That said, new RAM and a 64 bit OS can't hurt and at least the OS can be transplanted into a new system later. I'm happy to help you find some decent LP DDR2 modules if you need me to.

Oh, and RAM disks are very, very tricky to set up and use efficiently for gaming. They are FAST to be sure, but you need some substantial capacity overhead to even consider using them and I question their usefulness for gaming given that they can usually only accommodate a small number of game files and would require hours or days of tweaking for each game in order to work optimally. Besides, your 7200 RPM HDD shouldn't be causing any issues. It and the PSU are arguably the only two components in your system that don't need to be upgraded. Save the RAM disk idea for a day when you have at least 16 GB of DDR3 to play with and just focus on basic physical memory upgrades for now.
 
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I'm still here, my friend. JD is doing a spectacular job and I have a child due any day now, so I haven't felt the need to chime in for a little bit.

I'd just like to reiterate that based on what I now know about your rig I believe you'll have some pretty wicked cooling issues if you opt to go with a temporary CPU upgrade. As JD said, even a 95 watt TDP chip is likely to raise your mobo and case temps to unsafe levels, so a 125 watt TDP chip like the 955 is virtually guaranteed to. I foolishly mentioned the 955 before I had all of your system details; now that I've seen them I feel an obligation to warn you about the potentially disastrous issues that could arise from placing a high-TDP chip in a poorly cooled (comparatively speaking) mid-tower OEM system, especially one with a micro-atx board that is probably burdened by poor power phasing and sinkless VRMs. In basic terms: heat is going to be a big issue in your current system no matter which upgrade you choose, so much so that I question the wisdom of any upgrade at all.

I'm still not convinced an OS/RAM upgrade is going to fix your problems, but JD seems like a very knowledgeable gentleman so I'll reserve judgement until you've done it. My guess is that you'll see a marginal performance increase, but you're still going to bottlenecked severely by your CPU and, as I said above, any significant CPU upgrade is likely to do more harm than good. That said, new RAM and a 64 bit OS can't hurt and at least the OS can be transplanted into a new system later. I'm happy to help you find some decent LP DDR2 modules if you need me to.

Oh, and RAM disks are very, very tricky to set up and use efficiently for gaming. They are FAST to be sure, but you need some substantial capacity overhead to even consider using them and I question their usefulness for gaming given that they can usually only accommodate a small number of game files and would require hours or days of tweaking for each game in order to work optimally. Besides, your 7200 RPM HDD shouldn't be causing any issues. It and the PSU are arguably the only two components in your system that don't need to be upgraded. Save the RAM disk idea for a day when you have at least 16 GB of DDR3 to play with and just focus on basic physical memory upgrades for now.



Congratulations, I have four children and I'm glad you get to experience this blessing.


As far as the upgrade goes the 840 had a place on the spec list, while the 955 did not; do you think if I had a awesome cooling unit and heat sink that I would be able to manage with either?

" poor power phasing and sinkless VRMs"

If you don't mind and have the time can you elaborate on this?


I would totally appreciate the RAM suggestions; thank you very much.

Thank you for the RAM disk information; I didn't realize that I would need so much RAM to use it. I really don't want to have to do more tweaking, considering I've done so much already.

You and John Dime have been the most help so far; thank you for all your time, effort, and patience.
 
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Hey John Dime, I just seen your post. I have a few things to do today but I will respond as quickly as I can.

Thanks again John Dime
 
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32 bit applications in general, which most games are, therefore most games will use up to 2 GB of RAM on a 32 bit OS, unless the 3 GB switch is on, as I briefly addressed on post #69. On a 64 bit OS however, 32 bit applications can use up to 4 GB of RAM.



It depends on the game, but if we consider some of the most demanding titles such as Crysis 3, Far Cry 3 and both Metro titles, then I would very roughly estimate you to be able to draw an average of 35-40 FPS at 720p, with Medium settings, AA turned off, paired with a X4 955. Overall, if you're going to stay at that resolution, everything should be playable if you're prepared to tweak the settings somewhat, even though I would estimate less demanding titles to run fairly smoothly, 40-50 FPS, with the same set up, at High settings. From what I gather, and I'm not too aware of consoles nowadays so you'll probably know more about the subject than myself, most games run at 30 FPS and at a resolution of up to 1080p. If this is so, you may not be able to top the detail on those recent games just yet with your set up, already including the new processor and 64 bit OS/memory upgrade, but you won't be too far off. Essentially, there's only so much the HD 5770 will do too. If we consider the HD 5850, which came out 4 years ago and is around 35-40% faster than the HD 5770, it's already a GPU that will only saturate earlier 4-core processors moderately over-clocked. For you to leave the consoles behind and let us discard the upcoming generation, you probably need a GPU along the lines of a HD 7850. Again, not the most knowledgeable fellow when it comes to consoles, but from the little I've read, even though I may be a little off, up or down, the HD 7850 is vastly superior to the HD 5770 and quite cheap nowadays. Something to consider when you go for the thorough overhaul.



If you're talking about the processor alone, then proper cooling is all you'll have to worry about. There's plenty of software available to monitor CPU temperatures, which I advise you to install once the new processor is on-board. There won't be any over-clocking involved, which means the stock cooler should be able to handle the default voltages, provided that the air doesn't get too warm inside the case. I don't know what temperatures you have there, but where I'm at, I wouldn't take my chances unless I knew the case was able to exhaust warm air at a decent enough rate not to cause any unwanted over-heating. If you're getting the CPU and the stock cooler, analyse the temperatures afterwards. We still don't know whether you'll have an issue there as up until now we've only been speculating to be on the safe side, but if it comes to that, we can go through a selection of adequate candidates to cool the CPU in alternative to the stock heat sink. Let us know if you'll acquire the CPU with the stock cooler or not.



Did I miss that? Memory no longer in its prime hehe thanks for the rectification.



I'm still curious to know of the impact the OS and RAM upgrades will have on your gaming experience. With that in mind, there's no denying a 4-core CPU will vastly surpass your current X2 240 and while I can't egregiously consider the X4 955 the best option, all things considered, that L3 cache, which for some reason AMD included on the X4 820 but not on the X4 840, can be seen making a difference in games - scroll down on this page to check L3 cache versus no L3 cache in games. Slightly archaic resolutions, but it gives you an idea.



Sounds good. Don't forget the old folks here when you become Gates' beer buddy!



ReadyBoost is fine, but it's no match for RAM, speed wise. You should be fine with another 2 GB, until you get to DDR3, or DDR4. As for AMD Radeon RAM Disk the way it works is, you resort to RAM memory as you would to a HDD or SSD, meaning that you can use it to speed up reading/writing time of applications, but because RAM gets reset when the power goes off, you have to rebuild the data every time you boot into the OS. I'm afraid it will have no use for you, not in the way you implied it could, as it's something to take advantage of RAM as ultra-fast storage, rather than increasing RAM availability in any way. I hope that cleared it.

Keep us posted with the upgrade progress, whenever possible.

JD


To be honest I haven’t had the chance to read the article describing the 3gb switch; I saved that one and a couple of other on my desktop for “Soon” reading.

“32 bit applications in general, which most games are, therefore most games will use up to 2 GB of RAM on a 32 bit OS, unless the 3 GB switch is on, as I briefly addressed on post #69. On a 64 bit OS however, 32 bit applications can use up to 4 GB of RAM.”

I am glad you explained this to me, as I had no idea.

I have a question: Wouldn’t my 1gb of video memory (included in the 5770) help in reduction of physical RAM?




You are correct when it comes to consoles; normally they will run at 30 fps, but some titles like BattleField 3 are a rare exception. I have heard that a lot of PS3 titles are 1080p, but that is just here say; I have seen almost 90% 720p titles on the XBOX360. Considering what you said here about the settings, I believe it should suffice.




“it's already a GPU that will only saturate earlier 4-core processors moderately over-clocked.”




I am bit confused, can you elaborate?




Concerning the 7850: Is my mobo able to handle this and if so I know I will most likely need a PSU. Any ideas?




I am actually using HwInfo32 now for temp readings, so I am set when I upgrade as far as software monitoring is concerned.




Ok I think I see what you are saying now, I didn’t even think about it having a stock cooler or heat sink; I thought I was going to have to purchase each individually. Thank you for cluing me in on that; I will definitely let all of you know.

“Did I miss that? Memory no longer in its prime hehe thanks for the rectification.”


No problem, I don’t have the greatest memory now days; ha in more than one way now. (DDR2)




I will definitely let you know as far as the RAM and OS goes; I found these: http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_no...2Ck%3Addr2+ram

I personally like the Crucial 4gb Kit, but I just see price not specs. (I know only the general concept of RAM.)





As far as the L3 cache is concerned: I’d rather not take the chance of getting an inferior CPU, with the knowledge that it helps specific games, at least from what I understand. I would appreciate a smoother experience, but if the 820 opposed to the 840, is in fact inferior (by how much I am unsure, sorry haven’t had a chance to do the comparisons.) I do not think I would want to go with that CPU.




So now I am faced with this: Phenom 955 which in fact could have some issues or a 840/820 +L3 cache.
I would like to do some research into the comparisons between the 840 and 820 and also some comparisons concerning the L3 cache; Thank you for sharing this information.





“Sounds good. Don't forget the old folks here when you become Gates' beer buddy!”

Don’t worry friends, I log everything including forums; when this closes if it isn’t instantly deleted, I shall take the time to copy all this information to a Word Document and save it. This should hopefully secure a place for all of you at the Steak and Caviar parties haha.




Right on, I shall just wait for the new memory to come in. (ReadyBoost topic)




“As for AMD Radeon RAM Disk the way it works is, you resort to RAM memory as you would to a HDD or SSD, meaning that you can use it to speed up reading/writing time of applications, but because RAM gets reset when the power goes off, you have to rebuild the data every time you boot into the OS.”


First off this seems incredibly repetitive and tedious haha.
Second, what do you mean I can use my HDD to speed up my RAM; any information you could share?


What have I been missing? Haha


Also:
“as it's something to take advantage of RAM as ultra-fast storage”


What do you mean by this? Are you saying that it actually turns RAM into physical space?
I know I have a lot of questions, hope you don’t mind; this seems to be very informative and “KNOWLEDGE IS POWER!”
Thank you for your time and patience, you have been very helpful.
 

BigChickenJim

Senior member
Jul 1, 2013
239
0
0
Congratulations, I have four children and I'm glad you get to experience this blessing.


As far as the upgrade goes the 840 had a place on the spec list, while the 955 did not; do you think if I had a awesome cooling unit and heat sink that I would be able to manage with either?

" poor power phasing and sinkless VRMs"

If you don't mind and have the time can you elaborate on this?


I would totally appreciate the RAM suggestions; thank you very much.

Thank you for the RAM disk information; I didn't realize that I would need so much RAM to use it. I really don't want to have to do more tweaking, considering I've done so much already.

You and John Dime have been the most help so far; thank you for all your time, effort, and patience.

The problem is that higher TDP CPUs have wider systemic implications on an OEM board than their own heat. Yes, a good cooler could keep your chip itself well within the safe thermal envelope under load (provided you can actually fit an aftermarket cooler into your case in the first place), but that doesn't take into account all of the smaller variables in play like power phase counts and, by extension, VRM heat.

1. VRMs are the motherboard regulation modules that act more or less as gatekeepers between the PSU and the CPU itself. Their main job is to convert the high voltages produced by a PSU into the lower voltages needed by a processor. A byproduct of this process is waste heat. That heat is multiplied when a motherboard has a lower power phase count like 3 + 1 or 4 + 1 because the VRMs are not able to process power as efficiently. Less efficiency means more waste heat. Most modern motherboards have VRM heatsinks or spreaders to help combat this problem, but I'm guessing yours does not since it was designed to operate with a light TDP chip.

2. Truth be told, I'd be hard-pressed to explain the nitty gritty of power phase counts and transistor efficiency within a VRM structure--it's pretty technical stuff. However, what I can tell you is that lower phase count boards with no VRM cooling are generally not advised for power-hungry, high TDP chips. The increased heat caused by using a high TDP processor on a board with no VRM cooling in a relatively poorly ventilated case can cause high case temperatures and, in the worse case scenario, a melted or fried motherboard. That's why I'm a little wary of you sticking a high TDP CPU into the OEM board that you have now. It simply wasn't designed for it regardless of the fact that the CPU will theoretically work with the socket type. I suppose you could plop a fan down on top of the VRMs and hope for the best, but I wouldn't chance it.

Regardless of all this, a higher TDP CPU will increase your case temps no matter which cooler you choose. The cooler is simply removing heat from the chip itself via a heatpipe/radiator and attempting to exhaust it out of the case. However, your case has very little exhaust volume and the excess heat will likely just hang around. That will compound the potential VRM heat issues and also drive up the heat levels of your other components, thus decreasing system reliability.

All of this is based on possibly incorrect assumptions about your current motherboard, mind you. You may plop an 840 onto the board and have no issues whatsoever. The alternative, however, is pretty scary...
 
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John Dime

Member
May 6, 2013
71
0
0
I have a question: Wouldn’t my 1gb of video memory (included in the 5770) help in reduction of physical RAM?

Let me quote something from a Microsoft support page:

"(...) if you have a video card that has 256 MB of on-board memory (VRAM), that memory must be mapped within the first 4 GB of address space. If 4 GB of system memory is already installed, part of that address space must be reserved by the graphics memory mapping. Graphics memory mapping overwrites a part of the system memory. These conditions reduce the total amount of system memory that is available to the operating system.".

So as pointed on an earlier post, the memory from a GPU does affect the amount of available RAM, as part of its VRAM is mapped to system memory. Then there are also other factors that affect the amount of RAM available, generally to a lesser extent than VRAM, given that the proposed amount to cover these other factors is 256 MB. We're then left with the following formula: 4 GB - 256 MB - 1 GB (GPU VRAM) = 2,75 GB of available RAM, which is what you generally see available on a 32 bit OS, regardless of how much RAM is installed, past 4 GB.

I am bit confused, can you elaborate?

What I meant is that past-generations 4-core processors, moderately over-clocked, will deem the HD 5770 as the limiting factor. Consider the i5-760 at 3,5 GHz (25% over-clock), which should be sufficient to feed enough information to keep the HD 5770 at full throttle, during games that would stress the system as much.

Concerning the 7850: Is my mobo able to handle this and if so I know I will most likely need a PSU. Any ideas?

From what I gather, your PSU is able to deliver 34 A on the 12 V rail, which means 408 W (34 x 12= 408). Even if we are conservative and drop that by 50 W, it will still manage a single HD 7850 by a long shot - scroll down for power consumption results on Anandtech's 7850 benchmarks. As for your motherboard, I would not venture myself with anything past a new CPU/extra RAM and as BigChickenJim proposes, depending on your choice, that's stretching it. There are a couple of details that you want to shave off by acquiring a new motherboard eventually, like the slightly outdated RAM, the seemingly poor power phasing/VRM's that won't allow you to install higher TDP CPU's safely, the absence of the over-clocking venue due to BIOS limitations. These considerations ought to be held into account and these are why I wouldn't feel comfortable suggesting you upgrading past the newer CPU and extra RAM point.

I will definitely let you know as far as the RAM and OS goes; I found these: http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_no...2Ck%3Addr2+ram

I personally like the Crucial 4gb Kit, but I just see price not specs. (I know only the general concept of RAM.)

If you can save up money by acquiring only a 2 GB module and be set with 6 GB, which shouldn't hinder you in any way, why not? Your 2 modules are DDR2 PC6400, which run at 800 MHz and that's what you should take into account.

As far as the L3 cache is concerned: I’d rather not take the chance of getting an inferior CPU, with the knowledge that it helps specific games, at least from what I understand. I would appreciate a smoother experience, but if the 820 opposed to the 840, is in fact inferior (by how much I am unsure, sorry haven’t had a chance to do the comparisons.) I do not think I would want to go with that CPU.

So now I am faced with this: Phenom 955 which in fact could have some issues or a 840/820 +L3 cache.
I would like to do some research into the comparisons between the 840 and 820 and also some comparisons concerning the L3 cache; Thank you for sharing this information.

Again, I'm not big on prices there, but you can probably save enough money going with a X4 840 or a X4 820, to acquire the extra RAM and either way, you're going to double the amount of cores, at the very least, which games are benefiting from, more and more. Some more numbers regarding L3 cache versus no L3 cache for gaming, here (last results). Around 15% for the best result, but I too wouldn't acquire a CPU that's runs 12,5% slower than another (based on clock speed alone), because of the L3 cache. I proposed the X4 820 because it's already a significant upgrade over your X2 240, so you would likely relieve your system enough until any future upgrades, at an even lower price, versus the X4 840.

Don’t worry friends, I log everything including forums; when this closes if it isn’t instantly deleted, I shall take the time to copy all this information to a Word Document and save it. This should hopefully secure a place for all of you at the Steak and Caviar parties haha.

Snap! Don't get me started with the cravings at 5 AM, please!

First off this seems incredibly repetitive and tedious haha.
Second, what do you mean I can use my HDD to speed up my RAM; any information you could share?

It came out a bit confusing. It doesn't interfere with physical drives' speeds. You speed up applications that will constantly write/read from the storage point, because you'll be using RAM as physical space (as you put it), which is substantially faster than HDD's/SSD's, simply put. The downside is that, whereas HDD/SSD don't lose data when the power goes off, RAM gets reset. That's why you'd have to move data back to the RAM disk every time after shutting down. Also, as noted, this is only relevant on systems with a significant amount of spare RAM, which isn't the case.

P.S.: BigChickenJim, I hope everything goes well. Congratulations!

JD
 

BigChickenJim

Senior member
Jul 1, 2013
239
0
0
Alright, I took a look at your RAM options for you since that seems to be the way you are leaning. First of all, I personally would stick to Newegg over Amazon. The prices are (usually) lower and they're awesome about returns.

Note: all of the following assumes an upgrade to a 64 bit OS.

As near as I can tell, your motherboard is able to accommodate up 8 gigs of 240 pin, 800 MHz DDR2 (you can also use 667 MHz modules, but given that you are attempting to fix in-game frame rates I'd like to point out that faster is better). You have 4 DIMM slots, which means you can accommodate up to 4 separate RAM modules as long as they don't equal more than a combined 8 gigs. Because the board is dual-channel, you'd be best served here--in terms of efficiency at least--by discarding your old 2x2GB RAM modules and replacing them with 2x4GB modules. That's where things start to get a little tricky, though, because to do so would cost you hundreds of dollars thanks to the ridiculous prices of DDR2 modules these days. They are in such short supply due to the fact that they have not been manufactured for quite some time--DDR3 has taken over the market just as DDR4 will soon do--and short supply plus high demand equals high prices (economics on a PC forum!).

That leaves you with only one financially viable option: purchase another 2x2GB module set and use all four DIMM slots. Here is a link to Newegg's options on that front. However, DO NOT purchase any of them yet. Before you do, I need to know the frequency (MHz) of your current RAM modules (should be on display in BIOS) in order to make sure your new 800 MHz modules won't be throttled down to the (possibly) lower speeds of your current memory, thus wasting performance and money. There's also the issue of CAS latency and timings, but to be honest those may be more trouble to find than they're worth in your case. Also, some modules on that list are EEC. It appears that you need non-EEC for proper functionality. I'd also like to add that you can, as JD pointed out, simply buy one more 2GB module in order to bump your total up to 6GB. The only downside there is that only occupying 3 DIMM slots will force your memory into single-channel mode, possibly costing you performance.

So that's what I've got for you in terms of a first step towards a memory upgrade. I need your current memory frequency in MHz before we can jump to actual pricing, though. As it stands now, it looks like you're going to be spending around $80-100 on your memory. I know you're sick of hearing me harp about this, but I'd just like to point out that $100 is 15% of your budget for a new rig and, unlike the OS upgrade (another $100), you will not be able to transplant it into a new system. Essentially you'd be throwing $100 that you'll never get back at your system for an upgrade that may or may not offer big improvements. Still, it's your rig so it's your call.

Edit: Here is the information page I'm using to gauge your motherboard's capabilities. It's the only one I've been able to find with most of the information I need included. It could be helpful for you to be able to refer to this since I'm likely to be out of pocket for at least a few days in the near future (baby's a-coming!).
 
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Hey BigChickenJim and John Dime:

Thank you very much for all this information, I have had less time lately than usual, so please don't think I'm neglecting the forum haha; I will be responding to you both as soon as I can.

I have appreciated all of your efforts, time, and patience; considering this is my first forum, I don't think I could of stumbled across anyone more helpful than you guys have been. I have learned a great deal from this experience and I hope it continues to help other.
 
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I’m going to combine both of your posts BigChickenJim and respond accordingly.
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
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[FONT=&quot]“The problem is that higher TDP CPUs have wider systemic implications on an OEM board than their own heat. Yes, a good cooler could keep your chip itself well within the safe thermal envelope under load (provided you can actually fit an aftermarket cooler into your case in the first place), but that doesn't take into account all of the smaller variables in play like power phase counts and, by extension, VRM heat”[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]I read a bit of the below link and assuming my PC is a cheaper model (It’s used), I am assuming more so that my mobo has less power phases than most; this, as you said, could definitely be an issue. [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]
[/FONT][FONT=&quot]http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/Everything-You-Need-to-Know-About-The-Motherboard-Voltage-Regulator-Circuit/616/4[/FONT][FONT=&quot][/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]
“1. VRMs are the motherboard regulation modules that act more or less as gatekeepers between the PSU and the CPU itself. Their main job is to convert the high voltages produced by a PSU into the lower voltages needed by a processor. A byproduct of this process is waste heat. That heat is multiplied when a motherboard has a lower power phase count like 3 + 1 or 4 + 1 because the VRMs are not able to process power as efficiently. Less efficiency means more waste heat. Most modern motherboards have VRM heatsinks or spreaders to help combat this problem, but I'm guessing yours does not since it was designed to operate with a light TDP chip.” [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]I also doubt my ‘Grand’ OEM board has a VRM heatsink or spreader; considering the majority of the images of VRM heat sinks are incredibly varied (Google search), the only way I think I could find the answer (including evidence) to this is through at least an hour of research. Any ideas?[/FONT]
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[FONT=&quot]And still for the most part you are stating that generally my only problem would be heat, aside from other compatibility issues that may arise; am I correct?[/FONT]
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[FONT=&quot]

“2. Truth be told, I'd be hard-pressed to explain the nitty gritty of power phase counts and transistor efficiency within a VRM structure--it's pretty technical stuff. However, what I can tell you is that lower phase count boards with no VRM cooling are generally not advised for power-hungry, high TDP chips. The increased heat caused by using a high TDP processor on a board with no VRM cooling in a relatively poorly ventilated case can cause high case temperatures and, in the worse case scenario, a melted or fried motherboard. That's why I'm a little wary of you sticking a high TDP CPU into the OEM board that you have now. It simply wasn't designed for it regardless of the fact that the CPU will theoretically work with the socket type. I suppose you could plop a fan down on top of the VRMs and hope for the best, but I wouldn't chance it.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]
Regardless of all this, a higher TDP CPU will increase your case temps no matter which cooler you choose. The cooler is simply removing heat from the chip itself via a heatpipe/radiator and attempting to exhaust it out of the case. However, your case has very little exhaust volume and the excess heat will likely just hang around. That will compound the potential VRM heat issues and also drive up the heat levels of your other components, thus decreasing system reliability.”[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]I would definitely say that power phase counts are both interesting and complicated, from what I read. I’m not sure what part in my particular system is the VRM, but I might just look it up. Aside from dust particles, would leaving the side of my system open help the heat issue?[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]

“All of this is based on possibly incorrect assumptions about your current motherboard, mind you. You may plop an 840 onto the board and have no issues whatsoever. The alternative, however, is pretty scary...”[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]The 840 does seem to be the safer option, but as far as performance do you think there is a big difference? I think I may go do some comparison research.[/FONT]

Post #2-
“Alright, I took a look at your RAM options for you since that seems to be the way you are leaning. First of all, I personally would stick to Newegg over Amazon. The prices are (usually) lower and they're awesome about returns.”


Ok awesome, how do you feel about TIGERDIRECT.com


“Before you do, I need to know the frequency (MHz) of your current RAM modules (should be on display in BIOS) in order to make sure your new 800 MHz modules won't be throttled down to the (possibly) lower speeds of your current memory, thus wasting performance and money. “
I will look into this very shortly and respond back.

“There's also the issue of CAS latency and timings, but to be honest those may be more trouble to find than they're worth in your case”.


I looked this up, but I am still confused about what you mean. Could you please elaborate; do you mean I should look for low latency CAS RAM?


“Also, some modules on that list are EEC. It appears that you need non-EEC for proper functionality.”


Thank you for letting me know that; would have been pretty irritated had I made that mistake.




“I'd also like to add that you can, as JD pointed out, simply buy one more 2GB module in order to bump your total up to 6GB. The only downside there is that only occupying 3 DIMM slots will force your memory into single-channel mode, possibly costing you performance. “




To be completely honest, I really would rather have the general memory be 2gb a piece and stay with two of the 1gb I am currently running; I have to take into consideration that this PC was not built for high performance gaming. I really would like to replace all of the stock RAM in hopes of increased performance; thank you both very much for this suggestion though.






“So that's what I've got for you in terms of a first step towards a memory upgrade. I need your current memory frequency in MHz before we can jump to actual pricing, though. As it stands now, it looks like you're going to be spending around $80-100 on your memory. I know you're sick of hearing me harp about this, but I'd just like to point out that $100 is 15% of your budget for a new rig and, unlike the OS upgrade (another $100), you will not be able to transplant it into a new system. Essentially you'd be throwing $100 that you'll never get back at your system for an upgrade that may or may not offer big improvements. Still, it's your rig so it's your call.”




[FONT=&quot]Crucial 4GB Kit (2GBx2) DDR2 (PC2-6400) DIMM 240-Pin Desktop Memory Modules CT2CP25664AA800:[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]
[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]Is this compatible? It doesn’t state the mhz; perhaps you could explain this easily, if not I will look it up and I appreciate it either way. It’s only $55 plus whatever shipping might be. As far as the OS is concerned, I actually already have a 64bit of Windows 7 on call, so I’m glad I don’t have to fork out the extra $100 for that haha. Also I’d like to note that although I will be getting a high performance PC, it doesn’t matter too much because this will not only be a learning experience, but also a great decked out OEM for my wife when it all said and done. [/FONT]


“Edit: Here is the information page I'm using to gauge your motherboard's capabilities. It's the only one I've been able to find with most of the information I need included. It could be helpful for you to be able to refer to this since I'm likely to be out of pocket for at least a few days in the near future (baby's a-coming!).”


Thank you for this page, John Dime had posted the link for this earlier on post #69 and it seems to be the only specs out there with that type of detail. (I also researched quite a bit.)


Thank you for all this information and rock on; teach that baby everything you know. This world needs people like us who are willing to help; let our numbers grow until Earth and beyond is filled with us and there is no more ignorance.




John Dime, I’ve run out of time for today, but I will respond as soon as I get a chance; thank you for your patience.
 

BigChickenJim

Senior member
Jul 1, 2013
239
0
0
Wow. I typed out a gigantic response to you to answer all your questions about VRMs and what not, but somehow in the process of editing it for a typo it all got deleted. Huge bummer. Maybe I'll try again tomorrow, but that took a very long time. Grrrrrrrrr!
 

BigChickenJim

Senior member
Jul 1, 2013
239
0
0
[FONT=&quot]I read a bit of the below link and assuming my PC is a cheaper model (It’s used), I am assuming more so that my mobo has less power phases than most; this, as you said, could definitely be an issue. [/FONT]



[FONT=&quot]I also doubt my ‘Grand’ OEM board has a VRM heatsink or spreader; considering the majority of the images of VRM heat sinks are incredibly varied (Google search), the only way I think I could find the answer (including evidence) to this is through at least an hour of research. Any ideas?[/FONT]


[FONT=&quot]And still for the most part you are stating that generally my only problem would be heat, aside from other compatibility issues that may arise; am I correct?[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]I would definitely say that power phase counts are both interesting and complicated, from what I read. I’m not sure what part in my particular system is the VRM, but I might just look it up. Aside from dust particles, would leaving the side of my system open help the heat issue?[/FONT]

Let's first take a look at where the VRMs we're talking about are located. They are almost universally located to the left of the processor socket, though sometimes they are also located above the socket. Unsinked VRMs look like this:









If the VRMs have heatsinks, they'll look something like this (same position, though note that there is also a phase above the socket):




Your motherboard looks like this:




[FONT=&quot]Obviously you have no VRM heatsinks. Now we need to determine what the phase count of your board is. The easiest way to do this is to count the chokes in each phase. This method isn't 100% reliable since it is possible for more than one phase to use a single choke, but that's very rare. This is generally the best method to use if a manufacturer doesn't disclose the board's phase count. The chokes on your board are here:[/FONT]




You have four chokes, so you've got a four-phase board. It's likely a 3 + 1. The "+" number simply means that one of the phases is supplying other components while three of them are supplying the CPU. 3 + 1 is a very low phase count. My board is a 4 +1; I overclock slightly on it because I have a 95W TDP CPU, VRM heatsinks, and, most importantly, phenomenal case airflow. I wouldn't even think about overclocking on a 3 + 1 board, and I'd be very careful about putting a higher TDP (95 and up) onto it without fantastic case cooling. That recommendation is also based on the fact that when it comes to VRMs, quality matters. Low quality MOFSETs (the working units inside the VRMs) or bad VRM design are very dangerous at higher wattages, and especially so with lower phase counts.

Yes, technically your main issues will still be heat related. However, I'd like to caution you not to brush them off. Catastrophic VRM failure often takes out the CPU as well as the motherboard and can even result in explosions or fire inside your case. There are horror stories out there about house fires caused by VRM overload. Most modern mainboards have throttling mechanisms in place to prevent such a disaster, but I'm guessing yours does not. Without a way to tell for certain, I'd be very, very wary of stressing them beyond what they were designed for.

You could theoretically take the side off your case and point a house fan in there, but to be honest if you're going to have to resort to such a tactic the upgrade probably isn't a very good idea. Besides, such a setup is just asking for trouble. Computer cases are closed environments for a reason. You could try rigging fans inside the case, but that could be tricky.

1. Ok awesome, how do you feel about TIGERDIRECT.com


2. I looked this up, but I am still confused about what you mean. Could you please elaborate; do you mean I should look for low latency CAS RAM?


3. To be completely honest, I really would rather have the general memory be 2gb a piece and stay with two of the 1gb I am currently running; I have to take into consideration that this PC was not built for high performance gaming. I really would like to replace all of the stock RAM in hopes of increased performance; thank you both very much for this suggestion though.


[FONT=&quot]4. Crucial 4GB Kit (2GBx2) DDR2 (PC2-6400) DIMM 240-Pin Desktop Memory Modules CT2CP25664AA800:[/FONT]


[FONT=&quot]Is this compatible? It doesn’t state the mhz; perhaps you could explain this easily, if not I will look it up and I appreciate it either way. It’s only $55 plus whatever shipping might be. As far as the OS is concerned, I actually already have a 64bit of Windows 7 on call, so I’m glad I don’t have to fork out the extra $100 for that haha. Also I’d like to note that although I will be getting a high performance PC, it doesn’t matter too much because this will not only be a learning experience, but also a great decked out OEM for my wife when it all said and done. [/FONT]


5. Thank you for all this information and rock on; teach that baby everything you know. This world needs people like us who are willing to help; let our numbers grow until Earth and beyond is filled with us and there is no more ignorance.

I added numbers to your questions/statements in order respond more easily. Here we go.

1. Tiger Direct has been around for quite a while and many people love it. I've never used it, so I can't recommend it. I'd personally stick with Newegg, but you'll likely be fine with TD.

2. Don't worry about RAM timings or latency if you're going to replace all of your modules like you've stated you want to. It's only an issue if you're mixing and matching RAM.

3. Good choice. When you don't know the exact specifications of your current memory and don't have a reliable way of finding the information, it simply makes more sense to start over and replace it all at once.

4. PC2-6400 equates to 800MHz, and that's the highest speed your board can handle, so you're good there. Everything else looks good too except one little thing: I can't seem to figure out if those modules are EEC or non-EEC. I have very limited knowledge of EEC functionality outside of the fact that it includes an error-checking chip, but I've read many posts stating that EEC modules can be used on non-EEC boards. However, I've also read accounts of computers refusing to boot if they attempt to run EEC modules on a non-EEC board. Because of this, I'd say your best bet is to stick to modules that definitively meet all the criteria you're looking for. Don't resort to finger-crossing or guesswork if you don't have to.

Also, I'd like to point out that the kit you posted only includes 2 x 2GB modules. You'd need two of those kits to reach your board's 8GB maximum (after the OS upgrade). 4GB won't be enough and 5 or 6GB will force you into single-channel territory, so 8GB is really your only option here. That means you're looking at $110, not $55.

5. I am only a hobbyist and am far from an expert, but like I've said before I love this stuff and am more than happy to pass my limited knowledge on to people if it will help them solve a problem.

As for eliminating ignorance... well, let's not hold our collective breath.
 
Jul 12, 2013
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Wow. I typed out a gigantic response to you to answer all your questions about VRMs and what not, but somehow in the process of editing it for a typo it all got deleted. Huge bummer. Maybe I'll try again tomorrow, but that took a very long time. Grrrrrrrrr!

I had a second to respond and thought I should tell you thank you for all the effort you just put in. John Dime, I've already read the post, now the responding part haha. I wish I had more time, but at the moment I am trying to get into classes at Mapletronics; I really need to get a career in IT, as this is what most interests me.

Thank you very much, I appreciate it BigChickenJim; I can see how that would irritate. Lately I've been copying to WORD and saving just to be safe; it has served to be a good backup plan when issues have arisen in the past.

By the way, although this is irrelevant to the current discussion, I feel it is important for everyone to know this: I tried Phoenix University and Ivy Tech; both of these colleges have wronged me in one way or another, I do not recommend them. Many people have made complaints and in fact I believe it was CNN that created a video stating that for-profit colleges like Phoenix University have a notorious reputation for putting people in the red. Ivy Tech on the other hand was just ridiculous and misinformed me about everything, even though just as I have here, I asked many questions. I feel some people may come to this forum that may have an interest in a career in IT or furthering their education; this is why I feel it necessary to warn about this type of dysfunction.

Again not much time, but I appreciate all the help friends. John Dime, I will try to respond to this tonight before going further into the posts; thank you for your patience, this has been a great experience.
 
Jul 12, 2013
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Let me quote something from a Microsoft support page:

1. "(...) if you have a video card that has 256 MB of on-board memory (VRAM), that memory must be mapped within the first 4 GB of address space. If 4 GB of system memory is already installed, part of that address space must be reserved by the graphics memory mapping. Graphics memory mapping overwrites a part of the system memory. These conditions reduce the total amount of system memory that is available to the operating system.".

So as pointed on an earlier post, the memory from a GPU does affect the amount of available RAM, as part of its VRAM is mapped to system memory. Then there are also other factors that affect the amount of RAM available, generally to a lesser extent than VRAM, given that the proposed amount to cover these other factors is 256 MB. We're then left with the following formula: 4 GB - 256 MB - 1 GB (GPU VRAM) = 2,75 GB of available RAM, which is what you generally see available on a 32 bit OS, regardless of how much RAM is installed, past 4 GB.



2. What I meant is that past-generations 4-core processors, moderately over-clocked, will deem the HD 5770 as the limiting factor. Consider the i5-760 at 3,5 GHz (25% over-clock), which should be sufficient to feed enough information to keep the HD 5770 at full throttle, during games that would stress the system as much.



3. From what I gather, your PSU is able to deliver 34 A on the 12 V rail, which means 408 W (34 x 12= 408). Even if we are conservative and drop that by 50 W, it will still manage a single HD 7850 by a long shot - scroll down for power consumption results on Anandtech's 7850 benchmarks. As for your motherboard, I would not venture myself with anything past a new CPU/extra RAM and as BigChickenJim proposes, depending on your choice, that's stretching it. There are a couple of details that you want to shave off by acquiring a new motherboard eventually, like the slightly outdated RAM, the seemingly poor power phasing/VRM's that won't allow you to install higher TDP CPU's safely, the absence of the over-clocking venue due to BIOS limitations. These considerations ought to be held into account and these are why I wouldn't feel comfortable suggesting you upgrading past the newer CPU and extra RAM point.



4. If you can save up money by acquiring only a 2 GB module and be set with 6 GB, which shouldn't hinder you in any way, why not? Your 2 modules are DDR2 PC6400, which run at 800 MHz and that's what you should take into account.



5. Again, I'm not big on prices there, but you can probably save enough money going with a X4 840 or a X4 820, to acquire the extra RAM and either way, you're going to double the amount of cores, at the very least, which games are benefiting from, more and more. Some more numbers regarding L3 cache versus no L3 cache for gaming, here (last results). Around 15% for the best result, but I too wouldn't acquire a CPU that's runs 12,5% slower than another (based on clock speed alone), because of the L3 cache. I proposed the X4 820 because it's already a significant upgrade over your X2 240, so you would likely relieve your system enough until any future upgrades, at an even lower price, versus the X4 840.



6. Snap! Don't get me started with the cravings at 5 AM, please!



7. It came out a bit confusing. It doesn't interfere with physical drives' speeds. You speed up applications that will constantly write/read from the storage point, because you'll be using RAM as physical space (as you put it), which is substantially faster than HDD's/SSD's, simply put. The downside is that, whereas HDD/SSD don't lose data when the power goes off, RAM gets reset. That's why you'd have to move data back to the RAM disk every time after shutting down. Also, as noted, this is only relevant on systems with a significant amount of spare RAM, which isn't the case.

P.S.: BigChickenJim, I hope everything goes well. Congratulations!

JD



I am going to follow suite with BigChickenJim, considering I have no idea how to do what you are doing John Dime haha.
1.

1.1. Thank you for clearing that up.

2. 2. Ah, I see thank you for that elaboration; would you consider me to be at risk of bottleneck if I obtained a 7850, with the 840 or 820? I just don’t want to create a similar problem in the process of my upgrade. (note I am starting to steer clear of the 955 haha) Thank you for the suggestion for as far as the super upgrade; an I5 does sound quite amazing.

3. 3. If it will handle it, that is totally fine with me; I fear though that it will just become another bottleneck situation. Thank you for teaching me how to do this type of voltage math, this is very cool.

4. 4. Ah, had I some extra time, I would have noticed that you already answered a question I just asked haha ([FONT=&quot]DDR2 PC6400, which run at 800 MHz). [/FONT]Thank you for this suggestion; I do have to say, however, I have only four RAM slots. Therefore if I remove only one 1gb stick of RAM and replace it with a 2gb stick of RAM, my total will only be 5gb. I think I would rather replace two 1gb with two 2gb and eventually get the exact same RAM for the other two slots.

5. 5. Although I appreciate your concern, I think if I choose to avoid the 955 I’m going to have to purchase the 840 to be completely happy; it is interesting how the L3 cache tends to help certain aspects though.

6. 6. Don’t worry soon enough, just got to find the right path to a IT career haha.

7. 7. Sweet, I will keep this in mind for the super upgrade.


I wanted to make sure I’ve understood this correctly: The fps drops are at specific times, areas, and levels for the most part (acknowledged through constant and repeated observation); would this happen in a bottleneck? Most games run pretty decent, as I’ve said Skyrim and others; I just want to make sure this is truly the issue and not one of my famous game issues.
Are there many differences to GDDR5 RAM and other types of similar RAM?
I’ve found this here http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/GDDR5 and am wondering if it is based off DDR3, why didn’t they just make it compatible with DDR3? I am assuming that this is yet another marketing ploy.
“Like its predecessor, GDDR4, GDDR5 is based on DDR3 SDRAM memory which has double the data lines compared to DDR2 SDRAM, but GDDR5 also has 8-bit wide prefetch buffers similar to GDDR4

I just tried another game, a lower type 2-D/3-D game (Mark of the Ninja), that left me with 61-108 RAM free. I’m starting to question whether I was correct to assume memory as a big issue; regardless if it is a big issue or small issue, I still wouldn’t mind a RAM and CPU upgrade that could bring me to a decent stand point.
Thank you for your time and patience friends; BigChickenJim your next on the list of responses.
 
Jul 12, 2013
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I have read that you can check the amps of a PSU and find the +12 Volt consumption of your PC to find if a PSU is good enough considering power consumption. Is that what you did John Dime; if so how do I do this? (if you don't mine explaining.)
 

BigChickenJim

Senior member
Jul 1, 2013
239
0
0
As a quick reminder, GDDR5 is specific to VRAM found on a graphics card. It is not the same as DDR3 or DDR2 and you therefore can't use it as system memory. However, when you build a new rig, a GDDR5 graphics card will work fine with DDR3 system memory just as your current DDR2 works fine with GDDR5.

And yes, your specific areas of performance drop indicate (to me, at least) a CPU bottleneck. That's why I'm unsure your RAM upgrade will solve your problems. It will help on a general average frame rate level, but it won't kill a CPU bottleneck or improve your minimum frames in specific CPU-intensive scenarios.
 
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John Dime

Member
May 6, 2013
71
0
0
Ah, I see thank you for that elaboration; would you consider me to be at risk of bottleneck if I obtained a 7850, with the 840 or 820? I just don’t want to create a similar problem in the process of my upgrade. (note I am starting to steer clear of the 955 haha) Thank you for the suggestion for as far as the super upgrade; an I5 does sound quite amazing.

It's good that you're starting to consider a lower TDP CPU. BigChickenJim did a great job of reiterating why such a shift could gravely compromise your system, where heat is concerned. Given that it's an upgrade for the short term, saving a few dollars and staying within the motherboard's CPU compatibility list, sounds prudent.

With that motherboard, you can't over-clock whichever CPU you end up acquiring, therefore, the HD 7850 will necessitate something more powerful to be duly pushed. When I brought it up though, I was thinking of your other upgrade, where from my understanding you're going to get a new motherboard, CPU and so on. Only then, such a leap in GPU power will be justified. For now, the HD 5770 paired with a X4 840, will be a more adequate match.

If it will handle it, that is totally fine with me; I fear though that it will just become another bottleneck situation.

A decent 500 W would handle it, but as expressed above, my understanding is that you would opt for the HD 7850 come the next upgrade, which means you would still be using your current 500 W PSU to power up your current system. The clarification came about because I wanted to assure you that a decent 500 W PSU is able to handle a single HD 7850. When I mean decent, I'm referring to a PSU that doesn't have noteworthy fluctuations where continuous power delivery is concerned. If my understanding is correct then, for your next system, you could acquire another 500 W PSU, if you don't intend to over-clock any component and if you don't plan on adding a second GPU, but make sure it's at least 80 Plus certified, so you know it's efficient enough. Read more about 80 Plus here and here.

I do have to say, however, I have only four RAM slots. Therefore if I remove only one 1gb stick of RAM and replace it with a 2gb stick of RAM, my total will only be 5gb. I think I would rather replace two 1gb with two 2gb and eventually get the exact same RAM for the other two slots.

So you have 4 x 1 GB modules installed. I agree with you then, it makes more sense to get 2 x 2 GB modules and see how the system copes with 6 GB of RAM.

Although I appreciate your concern, I think if I choose to avoid the 955 I’m going to have to purchase the 840 to be completely happy; it is interesting how the L3 cache tends to help certain aspects though.

Given that you can't over-clock the CPU, I agree. You'll benefit more from +400 MHz/core, then from -400 MHz/core + 4 MB of L3 cache.

I wanted to make sure I’ve understood this correctly: The fps drops are at specific times, areas, and levels for the most part (acknowledged through constant and repeated observation); would this happen in a bottleneck? Most games run pretty decent, as I’ve said Skyrim and others; I just want to make sure this is truly the issue and not one of my famous game issues.

Yes. As BigChickenJim points, it's likely a CPU bottle-neck. An outdated 2-core CPU running at 2.8 GHz isn't much of a gaming CPU, concerning more recent games. Personally, I was running my 2-core E8500 at 4.00 GHz, and changing from that to a stock, turbo-disabled 3570K (running at 3.4 GHz), did cause my HD 5850 to become the limiting factor in highly demanding games like Crysis 3. These two CPU's are drastically different, architecturally, but the mere availability of 2 more cores does make a significant difference. That's why the old 4-core Q6600 is still a great chip to be reckoned with, now that more applications are taking advantage of multiple cores.


Are there many differences to GDDR5 RAM and other types of similar RAM?
I’ve found this here http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/GDDR5 and am wondering if it is based off DDR3, why didn’t they just make it compatible with DDR3? I am assuming that this is yet another marketing ploy.
“Like its predecessor, GDDR4, GDDR5 is based on DDR3 SDRAM memory which has double the data lines compared to DDR2 SDRAM, but GDDR5 also has 8-bit wide prefetch buffers similar to GDDR4.”

GraphicsDDR memory is different from DDR memory where voltage, clock speeds, bandwidth and latency are concerned, from what I understand. GDDR5 runs at a lower voltage versus DDR3. DDR3 runs at lower latencies than GDRR5, but the latter counters this otherwise performance-hindering characteristic by having a higher clock speed and, subsequently, higher bandwidth, possibilitated, among other factors by the lower heat output, thanks to being able to function at lower voltages. In short, even though GDDR5 (and GDDR4), is based on DDR3, GDDR is optimized for GPU's and can't be utilized as system memory as is, if that's what you're inquiring. I'm guessing a different memory controller would be required, as well as different memory sockets and modules (read, more expensive) - it's not too cost-efficient, given also that increasing current RAM bandwidth isn't really necessary for the majority of computer users.

I'm afraid I can't go any further here, because my own understanding of the subject is limited. As has happened before, I briefly studied it in order to provide a substantiated explanation and even though I reckon I clarified it for the most part, I suggest you delve deeper on your own if you wish to deepen your understanding.

I just tried another game, a lower type 2-D/3-D game (Mark of the Ninja), that left me with 61-108 RAM free. I’m starting to question whether I was correct to assume memory as a big issue; regardless if it is a big issue or small issue, I still wouldn’t mind a RAM and CPU upgrade that could bring me to a decent stand point.

That game requires 2 GB of RAM to run, according to its recommended settings. Furthermore, every other requirement is fairly light and from what I gather, your computer shouldn't have any issue running it. Now, the fact that practically all RAM is utilized with such a light title, it's a definitive indication that your system isn't sporting a sufficient amount of RAM to handle more demanding titles, but when it comes to those, I'll make it clear that I agree with BigChickenJim - the X2 240 is the most limiting factor.

A small addendum: with AMD RAM disk, you decrease the writing and reading times of applications that make use of it, because RAM is much faster than current physical drives, even SSD's. If we revert this, it can be used to explain why having a system resort to virtual memory (made available by a physical drive), instead of resorting to physical memory, slows it down significantly and may result in FPS drops, while gaming. Given the evidence you've provided thus far, this is why I don't exclude RAM as being yet another culprit. Be that as it may, I'll reaffirm that while gaming at 720p and higher, the relevance of components goes like this: GPU > CPU > RAM.

I have read that you can check the amps of a PSU and find the +12 Volt consumption of your PC to find if a PSU is good enough considering power consumption.

The PSU's themselves have a table with the values in question, generally. The voltages (V), respective amperage/current (I) and wattage/power (W). The formula to calculate wattage/power, which I employed earlier, is W = V x I. Then you have the components of the computer, for which wattage requirements are normally available on the manufacturers websites. For instance, a CPU's TDP approximately reflects the maximum amount of power, on paper, that it will draw while running at stock conditions, fully loaded. Take your X2 240, with its TDP at 65 W. Given that nowadays CPU's draw power from the 12 V rail, you'd need:

65 = 12 x I
65 / 12 = I
5.42 ~ I


around 5.42 Amps from the 12 V rail to power that CPU at full load. You can then do the same for the GPU, add them up and if you're within the PSU specifications (consider a 5 to 10% margin of error for the results, if you're basing the values on TDP), you're good to go.

JD
 
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