Mid-range Ryzen build. Suggestions required

[GothAmKing]

1. What YOUR PC will be used for.
Gaming at 1080p @60Hz and bit of web development.

2. What YOUR budget is.
USD 1000

3. What country YOU will be buying YOUR parts from.
India

4. IF you're buying parts OUTSIDE the US, please post a link to the vendor you'll be buying from.
pcpartpicker is fine

5. IF YOU have a brand preference.
I prefer sheer performance over any brand.

6. If YOU intend on using any of YOUR current parts, and if so, what those parts are.
None

7. IF YOU plan on overclocking or run the system at default speeds.
Bit of CPU overclocking upto 4GHz only

8. What resolution, not monitor size, will you be using?
32" 1080p or 25" ultrawide 2560x1080

9. WHEN do you plan to build it?
When cryptocurrency hype dies and GPU prices come down.

10. Do you need to purchase any software to go with the system, such as Windows or Blu Ray playback software?
Nope

Hey folks! Its been a long time but I'm finally back to build another rig to game on. I'm waiting for the cryptocurrency hype to fall so that I can get one of those GTX1060 at the "normal" price. Here's what I have put together so far in my list

https://pcpartpicker.com/list/NJDX6X

CPU : AMD - Ryzen 5 1600X 3.6GHz 6-Core Processor $226.28

CPU Cooler : Cooler Master - MasterLiquid Lite 120 66.7 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler $45.93

Motherboard : ASRock - Fatal1ty AB350 Gaming K4 ATX AM4 Motherboard $89.99

Memory Help me decide

Storage : Samsung - 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive $89.99
Seagate - Barracuda 3TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive $89.73

GPU : MSI - GeForce GTX 1060 6GB 6GB GAMING X Video Card $289.99

Case : NZXT - S340 Elite (Black/Red) ATX Mid Tower Case $89.99

PSU : Corsair - CXM 650W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply $77.43

Wireless Network Adapter : TP-Link - TL-WN881ND PCI-Express x1 802.11b/g/n Wi-Fi Adapter $17.79

Total : $1017

I chose that mobo due to the decent overclocking that it offers and I want a general BLACK+RED theme in my build. Now I believe that only specific memory modules work with Ryzen and at specific speeds(which may differ according to mobo). So I need help deciding a decent 3000 MHz RAM kit (2x8GB), preferably no RGB as I have no room in my budget for RGB stuff. Also how do you folks think this build will handle games at 2560x1080 at 60-75Hz?
Thanks in advance.

 

[lehtv]

7. IF YOU plan on overclocking or run the system at default speeds.
Bit of CPU overclocking upto 4GHz only

"Only" as in only the maximum possible 24/7 overclock for a Ryzen chip? If you intend to go for a mild overclock, 3.7-3.8GHz is more like it.

CPU : AMD - Ryzen 5 1600X 3.6GHz 6-Core Processor $226.28

CPU Cooler : Cooler Master - MasterLiquid Lite 120 66.7 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler $45.93

Motherboard : ASRock - Fatal1ty AB350 Gaming K4 ATX AM4 Motherboard $89.99

Memory Help me decide

Storage : Samsung - 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive $89.99
Seagate - Barracuda 3TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive $89.73

GPU : MSI - GeForce GTX 1060 6GB 6GB GAMING X Video Card $289.99

Case : NZXT - S340 Elite (Black/Red) ATX Mid Tower Case $89.99

PSU : Corsair - CXM 650W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply $77.43

Wireless Network Adapter : TP-Link - TL-WN881ND PCI-Express x1 802.11b/g/n Wi-Fi Adapter $17.79

Total : $1017

Looks fairly good.

CPU: If you intend to overclock, it makes no sense to pay the extra for a 1600X. The cheaper and lower clocked non-X version reaches the same overclocked speed, and you get a bonus stock cooler which is perfectly fine for use without overclocking.

CPU Cooler: I highly recommend against low end liquid coolers. You get much better performance for the money and lower noise level with an air cooler like the popular 212 EVO.

Motherboard: Probably OK. I would go with Asus however, to ensure decent quality power delivery components; you don't really want to buy a cheap board for overclocking unless you know its power delivery parts are good, which they are on Asus B350 boards (someone correct me if I'm wrong).

Memory: Corsair LPX 2x8GB 3000MHz should work at 2933MHz using the specified timings on most AM4 boards, and costs much less than Samsung B-Die chips. In any case, you want 16GB total, not 8GB.

SSD: good, but will fill up quite fast. 500GB would be preferable. You should also check out Crucial MX300, it tends to offer better price per gigabyte and there's no practical difference in performance or quality. I'd buy MX300 525GB and dual boot Linux (for web dev) and Windows (for gaming).

Hard disk: Why do you need 3TB of space just for gaming and web development?

GPU: OK

Case: OK but you could spend less without losing anything important. Checkout cases like Corsair 100R/200R/270R/300R/SPEC-02/SPEC-03 and Fractal Design Define C.

PSU: Okay, could be higher quality. I'd suggest Seasonic Focus. 10 year warranty, good efficiency, competitive price. At least in the US and EU, not sure about India.

Wireless: OK. If you're going to play fps games online however, you'll want to use a more stable wired connection.

9. WHEN do you plan to build it?
When cryptocurrency hype dies and GPU prices come down.

You may have to wait a few months... Come back to finalize your build when you know you're ready to pay.

Re: monitor poll

First, the processor really has no bearing at all on what monitor you should choose. The graphics card solely determines the maximum resolution your PC can handle in games.

More importantly, why are there so few options, and both of them bad? I would not recommend either type of monitor in the poll specifically for gaming. Both suggested monitors have fairly low refresh rate which means sub par motion fluidity. The first option (32" 1080p) has terribly large pixels, it will not look good at a typical PC monitor viewing distance. The second option's larger resolution is tough for the GTX 1060 to handle, it just doesn't have enough performance for high settings in graphics intensive games.

The best type of gaming monitor for GTX 1060:

• resolution: 1920x1080, since any larger is difficult for the GTX 1060 to handle at good fps
• size: 24", since any larger has no benefit on the above resolution
• refresh rate: 144hz
• sync tech: none or GSync (costs extra)
• panel type:
  • VA is preferable given the good contrast, good viewing angles and deep blacks
  • IPS would also be good for image quality but no 1080p 144Hz IPS monitor exists to my knowledge
  • ... but if you want GSync, you have to buy a standard TN panel which has the worst viewing angles and image quality in general (but it's still acceptable for gaming).

Personally, I'd get BenQ XL2411 (144Hz TN) or Samsung C24FG70 (144Hz curved VA, with FreeSync option for use with AMD graphics card).

If you can increase your graphics card budget, GTX 1070 would be ensure high fps at 1080p. It would also handle a 2560x1080 or 2560x1440 resolution screen fairly well in demanding games, but that combination is probably outside of your budget.

 

[GothAmKing]

"Only" as in only the maximum possible 24/7 overclock for a Ryzen chip? If you intend to go for a mild overclock, 3.7-3.8GHz is more like it.



Looks fairly good.

CPU: If you intend to overclock, it makes no sense to pay the extra for a 1600X. The cheaper and lower clocked non-X version reaches the same overclocked speed, and you get a bonus stock cooler which is perfectly fine for use without overclocking.

CPU Cooler: I highly recommend against low end liquid coolers. You get much better performance for the money and lower noise level with an air cooler like the popular 212 EVO.

Motherboard: Probably OK. I would go with Asus however, to ensure decent quality power delivery components; you don't really want to buy a cheap board for overclocking unless you know its power delivery parts are good, which they are on Asus B350 boards (someone correct me if I'm wrong).

Memory: Corsair LPX 2x8GB 3000MHz should work at 2933MHz using the specified timings on most AM4 boards, and costs much less than Samsung B-Die chips. In any case, you want 16GB total, not 8GB.

SSD: good, but will fill up quite fast. 500GB would be preferable. You should also check out Crucial MX300, it tends to offer better price per gigabyte and there's no practical difference in performance or quality. I'd buy MX300 525GB and dual boot Linux (for web dev) and Windows (for gaming).

Hard disk: Why do you need 3TB of space just for gaming and web development?

GPU: OK

Case: OK but you could spend less without losing anything important. Checkout cases like Corsair 100R/200R/270R/300R/SPEC-02/SPEC-03 and Fractal Design Define C.

PSU: Okay, could be higher quality. I'd suggest Seasonic Focus. 10 year warranty, good efficiency, competitive price. At least in the US and EU, not sure about India.

Wireless: OK. If you're going to play fps games online however, you'll want to use a more stable wired connection.



You may have to wait a few months... Come back to finalize your build when you know you're ready to pay.

Re: monitor poll

First, the processor really has no bearing at all on what monitor you should choose. The graphics card solely determines the maximum resolution your PC can handle in games.

More importantly, why are there so few options, and both of them bad? I would not recommend either type of monitor in the poll specifically for gaming. Both suggested monitors have fairly low refresh rate which means sub par motion fluidity. The first option (32" 1080p) has terribly large pixels, it will not look good at a typical PC monitor viewing distance. The second option's larger resolution is tough for the GTX 1060 to handle, it just doesn't have enough performance for high settings in graphics intensive games.

The best type of gaming monitor for GTX 1060:

• resolution: 1920x1080, since any larger is difficult for the GTX 1060 to handle at good fps
• size: 24", since any larger has no benefit on the above resolution
• refresh rate: 144hz
• sync tech: none or GSync (costs extra)
• panel type:
  • VA is preferable given the good contrast, good viewing angles and deep blacks
  • IPS would also be good for image quality but no 1080p 144Hz IPS monitor exists to my knowledge
  • ... but if you want GSync, you have to buy a standard TN panel which has the worst viewing angles and image quality in general (but it's still acceptable for gaming).

Personally, I'd get BenQ XL2411 (144Hz TN) or Samsung C24FG70 (144Hz curved VA, with FreeSync option for use with AMD graphics card).

If you can increase your graphics card budget, GTX 1070 would be ensure high fps at 1080p. It would also handle a 2560x1080 or 2560x1440 resolution screen fairly well in demanding games, but that combination is probably outside of your budget.

Man its so good to hear from you again. You don't remember me but in 2012 you helped me configure my first ever gaming build. It lasted till 2016 after which I sold it away. Thanks a bunch for that.

Yes I mean to overclock and keep it running at 3.6-3.8GHz all the time. 4GHz is the max overclock I want to do, that too way down the line when the CPU becomes old enough.

You are right, I should go for non-X Ryzen 1600 and save some bucks. Noted.

The only reason I went with AIO cooler because it wasn't that expensive than the air coolers and saw videos on Youtube that it made a difference of almost 20 degrees Celcius from the stock Wraith cooler. So Hyper 212 EVO is good enough you say? And just to be clear, I don't mind noise from cooler and chasis fans, I want them to run in cooler temperatures, that's it.

I saw reviews that ASrock is quite sturdy in term s of performance and overclocking. In all cases I am more than willing to swap it out with Asus ROG Strix B350-F Gaming. Will it be enough?

I was thinking of dropping a single stick of 8GB for now and then add in later when it becomes to start bottlenecking. As far as my games are concerned, I doubt any Singleplayer games I play will require more of it.

Actually I have a Samsung 850 EVO 250 GB with my from my previous build, so after another 250 gigs of an SSD I would have 500GB in total.

I watch a lot of movies and TV series so will need that much space I'm afraid.

Yes I saw many cases like CM Masterbox and Thermaltake View cases but all of them fell short in some or the other feature. With the NZXT I could compromise the least(and also the fact that I'm drooling over it, lol).

I have SEASONIC S12II-620 available for the same price as the CX-650M, but warranty is 5 years. No Seasonic Focus products are available as of now in here

The Wifi PCI card is for connecting to router, I have no plans for multiplayer gaming. I just play singleplayer missions and that's it. I am not that good in multiplayer, just spawn-die-repeat.

I guess then I'll stick with the 2560x1080 monitor as my budget isn't that good to afford a 144Hz monitor. I'll try to squeeze in a GTX1070, maybe stretch my budget a little more. Moreover I'm happy to play at 60Hz, maybe down the line I'll come to 144Hz.

Thanks for the reply.

 

[lehtv]

Man its so good to hear from you again. You don't remember me but in 2012 you helped me configure my first ever gaming build. It lasted till 2016 after which I sold it away. Thanks a bunch for that.

You're very welcome

The only reason I went with AIO cooler because it wasn't that expensive than the air coolers and saw videos on Youtube that it made a difference of almost 20 degrees Celcius from the stock Wraith cooler. So Hyper 212 EVO is good enough you say? And just to be clear, I don't mind noise from cooler and chasis fans, I want them to run in cooler temperatures, that's it.

OK. Air cooling will still offer better value for money though. Really the only reason to go AIO is if you want to pay extra to keep the area around the CPU socket clear of obstructions, as high performing air coolers tend to be quite bulky and block off easy access to some nearby connectors.

212 EVO is just an example, it's far from the best air cooler you can get and not even the best in the its size class. As an alternative in the same size class, I'd suggest Scythe Mugen 5, Cryorig H7 and Thermalright True Spirit 120 (possibly the new Direct version) and Noctua U12S as superior alternatives in terms of performance as well as noise. Cryorig M9i is almost as good as 212 EVO while being smaller (92mm fan) and quieter.

None of these 120mm towers will handle the maximum 4GHz overclock, though. If you want to be properly prepared for that, buy a Thermalright Macho Rev. B, Noctua D15 or similar high end tower, or possibly a 240mm AIO.

However, the extra 200MHz is not going to have any noticeable impact on anything, and will certainly not make your build more future proof. What makes the most difference for Ryzen's future gaming performance is how well games will scale up to use the high thread count, since performance per thread is going to be pretty limited even at the maximum overclock. Personally I'd buy the best bang-for-buck 120mm cooler and settle for a moderate 3.7-3.8GHz. Later on, if you need more performance, you can consider upgrading to a next-gen version of the 8-core Ryzen 7 1700 which will hopefully be supported on the B350 chipset.

Note that I haven't checked which of these coolers actually support AM4, so make sure the cooler you buy is AM4 compatible.

I saw reviews that ASrock is quite sturdy in term s of performance and overclocking. In all cases I am more than willing to swap it out with Asus ROG Strix B350-F Gaming. Will it be enough?

What I'm concerned with when it comes to overclocking on cheaper boards is long term stability - I would want the VRM to still be in good shape after 4-5 years of running an overclocked CPU. Most boards will be able to reach a good overclock, but some cheap ones may start crapping out in a few years time. Since it's very hard to estimate exactly how long a given board is going to last, I tend to play it safe and go with Asus which has a track record of using decent VRM components on most of the cheaper boards as well.

However, I checked out Tweaktown's review of the Asrock Fatal1ty B350 K4 board, and that looks like a very good choice too. The reviewer Steven Bassiri knows what he's talking about when it comes to VRM's, and he didn't have anything negative to say, so you should be perfectly fine with either that or the Strix B350-F.

I was thinking of dropping a single stick of 8GB for now and then add in later when it becomes to start bottlenecking. As far as my games are concerned, I doubt any Singleplayer games I play will require more of it.

Sure, you could get by with 8GB. But there are a few reasons you should buy 16GB:

• a single 8GB stick is going to run in single channel mode which hurts performance
• 2x4GB would run dual channel but then you'd have 4GB modules which are going to lose value more quickly than 8GB modules lose value, and you'd have to sell them when upgrading to 16GB
• even though a particular game may not need more than 8GB of RAM, your system as a whole may need more than 8GB when running other processes in the background
• many applications that benefit from Ryzen's high thread count also benefit from more than 8GB RAM, e.g. photo/video editing
• web development may require more than 8GB depending on what technologies you use and how you setup the environment; if you run a virtual development environment (and you definitely should) using Vagrant, Docker or just VirtualBox, having more than 8GB of RAM can be critical

The only counter argument to 16GB is that RAM is pretty expensive now. But, for your use case and budget, I think 16GB makes more sense.

Actually I have a Samsung 850 EVO 250 GB with my from my previous build, so after another 250 gigs of an SSD I would have 500GB in total.

OK.

I have SEASONIC S12II-620 available for the same price as the CX-650M, but warranty is 5 years. No Seasonic Focus products are available as of now in here

S12II-620 is a pretty old model but still considered reliable and good quality. CX-650M does use newer technology and probably performs a bit better, however. The difference is in long term (say, 7-10 years from now) reliability - the capacitors in CX-650M aren't as good quality as those in Seasonic S12II or Focus.

At the same price... I dunno, I'd probably pick the CX-650M for the modular cables.

 

[GothAmKing]

You're very welcome



OK. Air cooling will still offer better value for money though. Really the only reason to go AIO is if you want to pay extra to keep the area around the CPU socket clear of obstructions, as high performing air coolers tend to be quite bulky and block off easy access to some nearby connectors.

212 EVO is just an example, it's far from the best air cooler you can get and not even the best in the its size class. As an alternative in the same size class, I'd suggest Scythe Mugen 5, Cryorig H7 and Thermalright True Spirit 120 (possibly the new Direct version) and Noctua U12S as superior alternatives in terms of performance as well as noise. Cryorig M9i is almost as good as 212 EVO while being smaller (92mm fan) and quieter.

None of these 120mm towers will handle the maximum 4GHz overclock, though. If you want to be properly prepared for that, buy a Thermalright Macho Rev. B, Noctua D15 or similar high end tower, or possibly a 240mm AIO.

However, the extra 200MHz is not going to have any noticeable impact on anything, and will certainly not make your build more future proof. What makes the most difference for Ryzen's future gaming performance is how well games will scale up to use the high thread count, since performance per thread is going to be pretty limited even at the maximum overclock. Personally I'd buy the best bang-for-buck 120mm cooler and settle for a moderate 3.7-3.8GHz. Later on, if you need more performance, you can consider upgrading to a next-gen version of the 8-core Ryzen 7 1700 which will hopefully be supported on the B350 chipset.

Note that I haven't checked which of these coolers actually support AM4, so make sure the cooler you buy is AM4 compatible.



What I'm concerned with when it comes to overclocking on cheaper boards is long term stability - I would want the VRM to still be in good shape after 4-5 years of running an overclocked CPU. Most boards will be able to reach a good overclock, but some cheap ones may start crapping out in a few years time. Since it's very hard to estimate exactly how long a given board is going to last, I tend to play it safe and go with Asus which has a track record of using decent VRM components on most of the cheaper boards as well.

However, I checked out Tweaktown's review of the Asrock Fatal1ty B350 K4 board, and that looks like a very good choice too. The reviewer Steven Bassiri knows what he's talking about when it comes to VRM's, and he didn't have anything negative to say, so you should be perfectly fine with either that or the Strix B350-F.



Sure, you could get by with 8GB. But there are a few reasons you should buy 16GB:

• a single 8GB stick is going to run in single channel mode which hurts performance
• 2x4GB would run dual channel but then you'd have 4GB modules which are going to lose value more quickly than 8GB modules lose value, and you'd have to sell them when upgrading to 16GB
• even though a particular game may not need more than 8GB of RAM, your system as a whole may need more than 8GB when running other processes in the background
• many applications that benefit from Ryzen's high thread count also benefit from more than 8GB RAM, e.g. photo/video editing
• web development may require more than 8GB depending on what technologies you use and how you setup the environment; if you run a virtual development environment (and you definitely should) using Vagrant, Docker or just VirtualBox, having more than 8GB of RAM can be critical

The only counter argument to 16GB is that RAM is pretty expensive now. But, for your use case and budget, I think 16GB makes more sense.


OK.



S12II-620 is a pretty old model but still considered reliable and good quality. CX-650M does use newer technology and probably performs a bit better, however. The difference is in long term (say, 7-10 years from now) reliability - the capacitors in CX-650M aren't as good quality as those in Seasonic S12II or Focus.

At the same price... I dunno, I'd probably pick the CX-650M for the modular cables.

Well in that case I'm gonna go with Hyper 212 EVO.

In case of motherboards, I'm ready to go with Asus ASrock MSI and Gigabyte. It'd be great if you could point out a specific board from these brands which has good VRM to endure long term OCing. The fact that I'll never go with SLI/Crossfire is the reason I'm getting one of these B350 motherboards otherwise I would have gone with the X370 boards but they just don't seem good value for money according to my usage.

In RAM I will go for 16GB. But I have a question, does its speed really matter? I ask this as I think 3200Mhz will give me no noticeable performance benefit than the 2400Mhz ones.(I think this as I'm no enthusiast or power user, just a guy looking to squeeze every drop of performance out from my limited budget)

For PSU CX650M seems good enough. Is 650 Watts okay or do I need to change the capacity of the PSU?

And thanks again for your suggestions.

 

[lehtv]

Well in that case I'm gonna go with Hyper 212 EVO.

In case of motherboards, I'm ready to go with Asus ASrock MSI and Gigabyte. It'd be great if you could point out a specific board from these brands which has good VRM to endure long term OCing. The fact that I'll never go with SLI/Crossfire is the reason I'm getting one of these B350 motherboards otherwise I would have gone with the X370 boards but they just don't seem good value for money according to my usage.

I would not buy any MSI B350 board for overclocking purposes. It's not that it wouldn't work, but there's a somewhat higher risk of failure on part of the cheap Nikosem MOSFETs. How much higher, I have no data on that, but I've been told by some more knowledgeable people that Nikosems aren't reliable, they may simply stop working in a few years. So it's more or less a lottery with MSI's VRM reliability (beyond the length of the warranty anyway).

I paired my Ryzen 5 1600 with Asus X370-PRO, even though I have no plans to overclock to 4GHz. The board is certainly a little overkill, and Strix B350-F would've been perfectly fine too - but the price difference was just 10 euros. So it all depends on how much each particular board costs.

Among B350 boards from Asrock, the Fatal1ty K4 board looks good to me. From Gigabyte, B350-Gaming 3 is good. And from Asus, Strix B350-F. I would still rank Asus the best, but it probably costs more as well. Another advantage with Asus is the UEFI which, I think it's safe to say, is better than that of the other manufacturers. That's especially true for new platforms and chipsets, though at this point (about 6 months after release) other manufacturers have probably had enough time to catch up to Asus and iron out remaining bugs and compatibility issues etc.

In RAM I will go for 16GB. But I have a question, does its speed really matter? I ask this as I think 3200Mhz will give me no noticeable performance benefit than the 2400Mhz ones.(I think this as I'm no enthusiast or power user, just a guy looking to squeeze every drop of performance out from my limited budget)

For Ryzen yes, RAM speed does tend to matter. You get what you pay for - if you can afford fast memory and you can confirm your motherboard can run it, it will make a difference. But it's also true that it may be worth it to cut a corner and save money, as you'll still be able to run things just fine at 2400MHz or 2666MHz.

For PSU CX650M seems good enough. Is 650 Watts okay or do I need to change the capacity of the PSU?

650W is good for a single GPU setup. Any more capacity would be overkill, any less would risk not being able to run some of the high end ~300W cards comfortably (like Vega 64 or OC 1080 Ti).

 

[GothAmKing]

I would not buy any MSI B350 board for overclocking purposes. It's not that it wouldn't work, but there's a somewhat higher risk of failure on part of the cheap Nikosem MOSFETs. How much higher, I have no data on that, but I've been told by some more knowledgeable people that Nikosems aren't reliable, they may simply stop working in a few years. So it's more or less a lottery with MSI's VRM reliability (beyond the length of the warranty anyway).

I paired my Ryzen 5 1600 with Asus X370-PRO, even though I have no plans to overclock to 4GHz. The board is certainly a little overkill, and Strix B350-F would've been perfectly fine too - but the price difference was just 10 euros. So it all depends on how much each particular board costs.

Among B350 boards from Asrock, the Fatal1ty K4 board looks good to me. From Gigabyte, B350-Gaming 3 is good. And from Asus, Strix B350-F. I would still rank Asus the best, but it probably costs more as well. Another advantage with Asus is the UEFI which, I think it's safe to say, is better than that of the other manufacturers. That's especially true for new platforms and chipsets, though at this point (about 6 months after release) other manufacturers have probably had enough time to catch up to Asus and iron out remaining bugs and compatibility issues etc.



For Ryzen yes, RAM speed does tend to matter. You get what you pay for - if you can afford fast memory and you can confirm your motherboard can run it, it will make a difference. But it's also true that it may be worth it to cut a corner and save money, as you'll still be able to run things just fine at 2400MHz or 2666MHz.



650W is good for a single GPU setup. Any more capacity would be overkill, any less would risk not being able to run some of the high end ~300W cards comfortably (like Vega 64 or OC 1080 Ti).

I guess I'll go with Asus this time. The ASRock has 1 more power phase design than the Asus one but I guess it won't matter much.

For RAM, the current prices seem too high as I remember the time when I built my older rig on DDR3 RAM, they were dirt cheap. If I manage to get 3000MHz modules then okay otherwise I'm gonna be satisfied with 2400 or anything above it at the same price.

 

[GothAmKing]

So the build that I'm going with

CPU : AMD - Ryzen 5 1600 6-Core Processor

CPU Cooler : Cooler Master - Hyper 212 EVO

Motherboard : Asus ROG Strix B350-F Gaming AM4 Motherboard

Memory : G.Skill 2400Mhz(2x8GB)

Storage : Samsung - 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive
Seagate - Barracuda 3TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive

GPU : Gigabyte - GeForce GTX 1070 8GB Windforce Video Card

Case : NZXT - S340 Elite (Black/Red) ATX Mid Tower Case

PSU : Corsair - CXM 650W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply

Wireless Network Adapter : TP-Link - TL-WN881ND PCI-Express x1 802.11b/g/n Wi-Fi Adapter

Sound good?

lehtv

 

[lehtv]

@GothAmKing Looks good. What's the cost difference between 2400MHz and 3000MHz (Corsair LPX, for instance)?

 

[GothAmKing]

@GothAmKing Looks good. What's the cost difference between 2400MHz and 3000MHz (Corsair LPX, for instance)?

@lehtv
Almost like USD 45 between GSkill Ripjaws 4 2400MHz and Trident 3000MHz

 

[lehtv]

Definitely a bit much, then .

 

[GothAmKing]

Definitely a bit much, then .

Also I noticed at the same price of Gskill or Corsair 2400MHz I was getting Crucial Ballistix Tactical 3000MHz. Is it wise to get Crucial instead of Gskill or Corsair?

 

[lehtv]

Yes, Crucial is also a good memory brand. It may or may not work at 2933MHz (the speed 3000MHz kits run at on Ryzen), but it will almost certainly work at 2400MHz or 2666MHz (possibly at tighter timings than the native 2400MHz kits). You can find the memory QVL for each motherboard on the manufacturer's site, it will tell you what exact memory kits/modules are officially supported and at what speeds. Unlisted kits also usually work fine, but perhaps not at the advertised speed.

 

[GothAmKing]

Yes, Crucial is also a good memory brand. It may or may not work at 2933MHz (the speed 3000MHz kits run at on Ryzen), but it will almost certainly work at 2400MHz or 2666MHz (possibly at tighter timings than the native 2400MHz kits). You can find the memory QVL for each motherboard on the manufacturer's site, it will tell you what exact memory kits/modules are officially supported and at what speeds. Unlisted kits also usually work fine, but perhaps not at the advertised speed.

I checked QVL for both Crucial Ballistix Tactical and Elite(3000 and 3200MHz respectively), none of them are present in the list for Asus ROG Strix B350-F and in the ASRock Fatal1ty Gaming K4. But in ASRock's site they do say that
Each RAM whose frequency is 3000 will downgrade to 2933
So if I were to buy the Tactical 3000MHz(which is not on the QVL list) will it run at 2933 or the system won't POST?

 

[lehtv]

What that phrase from Asrock means is that any 3000MHz kit that should work, should actually work at 2933MHz instead of 3000MHz because Ryzen doesn't support 3000MHz.

 

[GothAmKing]

What that phrase from Asrock means is that any 3000MHz kit that should work, should actually work at 2933MHz instead of 3000MHz because Ryzen doesn't support 3000MHz.

Alrighty, thanks for clearing that up. I had come across threads where folks are having trouble with RAM in their new Ryzen builds. So any RAM works, at the highest frequency supported by Ryzen within the Ram's speed range.

 

[VirtualLarry]

So any RAM works, at the highest frequency supported by Ryzen within the Ram's speed range.

NO.

I bought some Team Vulcan DDR4-3000 1.35V CAS 16-16-16-38 RAM (2x8GB) and it does DOES NOT work with my Ryzen 5 1600 rig(s), on ASRock AB350M Pro4 boards, using UEFI 3.0 (AGESA 1.0.0.6a), reliably, at anything over 2667.

 

[GothAmKing]

NO.

I bought some Team Vulcan DDR4-3000 1.35V CAS 16-16-16-38 RAM (2x8GB) and it does DOES NOT work with my Ryzen 5 1600 rig(s), on ASRock AB350M Pro4 boards, using UEFI 3.0 (AGESA 1.0.0.6a), reliably, at anything over 2667.

So I understand that it's safe to go with 2800MHz right now as 2667 being the max supported speed from Ryzen, right?

(Spam Removed)

 

[lehtv]

It's basically safe to go with any speed RAM and run it at stock speed. Just because the kit says 3000MHz doesn't mean the memory can't be run at lower speed; in fact, all RAM will run at 2133MHz on Ryzen unless manually configured to run faster.

I say "basically" because of the QVL which is the final word on what's officially compatible.

So any RAM works, at the highest frequency supported by Ryzen within the Ram's speed range.

No, any RAM on the QVL works. If it's not on the QVL, it may or may not work, and in the case of 3000MHz kits that do work, they will run (up to) 2933MHz on Ryzen. (Side note: it may be possible to run a 3000MHz kit at 3200MHz with looser timings and/or higher voltage, but that's another thing and not really worth a try).

 

[lehtv]

So I understand that it's safe to go with 2800MHz right now as 2667 being the max supported speed from Ryzen, right?

I don't see how that follows. If 2667 is the max (officially yes, actually boards support faster), then shouldn't 2667MHz be safe, 2800MHz overkill?

 

[kirbyrj]

Do some research on what ICC's are in the RAM you're using and what's in the RAM on the QVL. The "most" compatible memory seems to be the Samsung B die chips. Theoretically any Samsung B die memory regardless of the manufacturer of the individual DIMM will work fine.

I had some issues with Patriot Viper 4 memory in my Ryzen build. Wouldn't boot above 2133mhz with 1.0.0.4. I didn't hold on to it to try 1.0.0.6.

 

[GothAmKing]

I don't see how that follows. If 2667 is the max (officially yes, actually boards support faster), then shouldn't 2667MHz be safe, 2800MHz overkill?

Actually the speeds that I see in Corsair and Gskill don't have 2667 MHz, only Crucial does. So I mentioned 2800MHz as the nearest speed to get 2667MHz. Maybe Corsair and Gskill do have modules of 2667MHz but I couldn't see in selling in my country.

Thanks again for the replies, really learnt a lot in the couple of days

(Spam removed)

 

[GothAmKing]

Do some research on what ICC's are in the RAM you're using and what's in the RAM on the QVL. The "most" compatible memory seems to be the Samsung B die chips. Theoretically any Samsung B die memory regardless of the manufacturer of the individual DIMM will work fine.

I had some issues with Patriot Viper 4 memory in my Ryzen build. Wouldn't boot above 2133mhz with 1.0.0.4. I didn't hold on to it to try 1.0.0.6.

Thanks for the insight. Will look for the Samsung B die kits.

(Spam removed)

 

[GothAmKing]

Aw man crucial doesn't have an office in my country, so if I have any issues I'll have to ship my memory to Europe. Damn, that'll cost nearly half of the MSRP I guess.

Sent from my ONEPLUS A3003 using Tapatalk

 

[lehtv]

Samsung B die kits tend to be quite expensive; if possible, settle for whatever's the cheapest in the QVL.

Can't you do RMA through the retailer?