Mini-ITX build issue...

[looper]

I'm just starting the build with the very small Ncase M1, Asus Z170i Pro Gaming, Corsair SF600 PSU, i7-6700k, 1 SSD, and the Corsair H100i V1 AIO exhausting air out the side w/ 2 Vardar 120mm fans.

I had to move the power outlet plug connector over one position on the back of the case to make more room for the placement of the rad/fans. The connector was held in place by 2 Phillips head screws. One came out, but the other one was in sooo tight I stripped it trying to loosen...

Oh boy, how do I get that very small screw out?

Thx.

 

[Bubbaleone]

Do you mean you wallowed out the cross-slot on the screw head, with the screwdriver tip, or that you actually "stripped" the threads in the sheet metal and now you can't back the screw out? Is the screw a pan-head or flat-head? Could you post a pic?

.

 

[Kartajan]

http://www.wikihow.com/Use-a-Screw-Extractor

 

[Bubbaleone]

http://www.wikihow.com/Use-a-Screw-Extractor

Good luck finding conventional screw extractors that'll fit the 6-32, 4-40, and M3 screw sizes commonly used in PCs.

.

 

[Kartajan]

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Bosch-1-Spiral-Extractor-95785/203598088
http://www.laptopscrews.com/Extractors.htm
https://www.usatco.com/item/WEB+26377/Machine-Screw-Tap-Hex-Die/

 

[Bubbaleone]

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Bosch-1-Spiral-Extractor-95785/203598088
http://www.laptopscrews.com/Extractors.htm
https://www.usatco.com/item/WEB+26377/Machine-Screw-Tap-Hex-Die/

Thanks Kartajan, I appreciate the info,,,and I stand corrected about micro sized extractors being readily available to the consumer these days. But there remains the practical problem of whether one has the acquired skills to accurately center and start a 5/64" (or smaller) split-point drill bit, on a very irregular or broken surface, concentric to the minor diameter of of a screw this small. using a hand held drill motor, without damaging an expensive electronic device. I'm simply stating this fact from the perspective of a 30 year journeyman machinist (retired). My suggestion to the OP is a handy little tool I've been using for several years that's a lot safer than drilling. You can get a set of these for twenty bucks:

https://www.ifixit.com/Store/Tools/Precision-Screw-Extractor-Set/IF145-118

.

 

[looper]

Do you mean you wallowed out the cross-slot on the screw head, with the screwdriver tip, or that you actually "stripped" the threads in the sheet metal and now you can't back the screw out? Is the screw a pan-head or flat-head? Could you post a pic?

.

Wallowed out the cross-slot of the screw head.... flat-head.

Can I use that product you linked?

 

[Kartajan]

Thanks Kartajan, I appreciate the info,,,and I stand corrected about micro sized extractors being readily available to the consumer these days. But there remains the practical problem of whether one has the acquired skills to accurately center and start a 5/64" (or smaller) split-point drill bit, on a very irregular or broken surface, concentric to the minor diameter of of a screw this small. using a hand held drill motor, without damaging an expensive electronic device. I'm simply stating this fact from the perspective of a 30 year journeyman machinist (retired). My suggestion to the OP is a handy little tool I've been using for several years that's a lot safer than drilling. You can get a set of these for twenty bucks:

https://www.ifixit.com/Store/Tools/Precision-Screw-Extractor-Set/IF145-118

.

now THAT is a constructive comment. I just prefer providing solutions over the reverse.

 

[Bubbaleone]

Wallowed out the cross-slot of the screw head.... flat-head.

Can I use that product you linked?

You sure can. The tips of these little tools have hardened and sharply ground facets (much harder than the steel the screw is made from) that bite into the damaged screw as the result of applying firm steady pressure while slowly backing the screw out, similar to using a screwdriver.

.

 

[looper]

You sure can. The tips of these little tools have hardened and sharply ground facets (much harder than the steel the screw is made from) that bite into the damaged screw as the result of applying firm steady pressure while slowly backing the screw out, similar to using a screwdriver.

.

I'm in no way doubting that this works. But, this very small screw's cross-slot head is so stripped and I don't see how I can have the necessary torque/leverage/strength to turn that 'ifixit screw extractor' with the smallness of it's handle diameter.

-Not 'handy' in Rhode Island

 

[Kartajan]

If you do not feel confident in doing it yourself, you could try to locate a lawnmower repair or machinist shop. They are more likely to have the tools and skillset to assist you... No clue as to what they may charge though....

 

[Bubbaleone]

I'm in no way doubting that this works. But, this very small screw's cross-slot head is so stripped and I don't see how I can have the necessary torque/leverage/strength to turn that 'ifixit screw extractor' with the smallness of it's handle diameter.

-Not 'handy' in Rhode Island

If it's a flathead, then it's probably a 4-40 screw. The suggested maximum torque value for a low carbon steel 4-40 screw is only 4.5 inch pounds, yellow brass 4.3, aluminum 2.9. That's inch pounds not foot pounds of torque. The handles on the extractors are the same size as the handles on the screwdrivers one should be using when assembling/disassemling computer hardware.

That size handle, when held between one's middle finger, index finger, and thumb will apply all the torque that tiny screw and it's cross-slot was designed for. The cross-slot damage you describe typically results from using the wrong size Phillips or JIS tip, attempting to use a Phillips tip in a JIS cross-slot, or vice versa.

You'd be doing your hardware a real favor by getting up to speed on the important subject of screw drive-types, and the correct screwdriver tip-types to use with each type of screw slot: When a Phillips is not a Phillips!

.

 

[looper]

If it's a flathead, then it's probably a 4-40 screw. The suggested maximum torque value for a low carbon steel 4-40 screw is only 4.5 inch pounds, yellow brass 4.3, aluminum 2.9. That's inch pounds not foot pounds of torque. The handles on the extractors are the same size as the handles on the screwdrivers one should be using when assembling/disassemling computer hardware.

That size handle, when held between one's middle finger, index finger, and thumb will apply all the torque that tiny screw and it's cross-slot was designed for. The cross-slot damage you describe typically results from using the wrong size Philips or JIS tip, attempting to use a Philips tip in a JIS cross-slot, or vice versa.

You'd be doing your hardware a real favor by getting up to speed on the important subject of screw drive-types, and the correct screwdriver tip-types to use with each type of screw slot: When a Phillips is not a Phillips!

.

Thanks for the info.

As I said in the OP, one of the screws came out.

I was just at my local Home Depot. I bought a Ryobi (only kind they had...directions on the backside in 5 different languages, but not English) #1 (smallest size) 'Spiral Screw Extractor'. Hope this works...

 

[looper]

Nope, that Ryobi did not work. Is now my basic only option to drill out the screw?

 

[nerp]

Super glue.

Get a screwdriver that you're willing to sacrifice or some other object that fits snugly with the screw. Use some high-strength superglue to fuse them together. Let dry fully and see if you can coax it out that way.

 

[looper]

Thanks, IBM... I'll try that...

 

[looper]

I picked up the smallest size screw extraction bit and borrowed my buddy's much better drill... will see what happens tomm.(Saturday)...