Mobil 1 (updated 6/8)

[Hook]

Originally posted by: SharkyTM
any deals on Mobil-1 filters? They rock.

I'm wondering the same. KMart used to have the Mobil 1 filters for around $8 but I haven't seen them there for awhile.

 

[The Sauce]

Originally posted by: Yo2
$4 or 5 for a quart - this is not hot, when normal oils can be had for under $1 per quart. Factor in changing it every 3000miles (which is BS too) , over a normal liftime of a car(b4 it becomes too tedious) say 100k miles you would spend 32x$4X5quarts = $640 vs under $160 - what am I missing?

In this case you definitely get what you pay for. Full synthetic is much more resistant to shearing and sludging than dino-oil. As such you can run longer with it and get much better engine protection in the process. Of course, if you drive anything American there's no point, but otherwise you might expect your engine to last long enough for it to matter

 

[Aharami]

thanks. this might come in handy

also if you are interested. go to the mobil webpage and sign up for their program where you get free stuff back for using their super syn oils.

 

[Aharami]

here is a link that might help

mobil 1 oils

 

[tallman45]

Originally posted by: SharkyTM
any deals on Mobil-1 filters? They rock.

Yes they are called Bosch, they use the same sythetic media and pressure valve. For 1/2 the price of the Mobil1 filter, one could change the filter in-between oil changes, provided you are using sythetic oil and be ok.

 

[mikeford]

If you have cold start engine noise, get a better oil filter. Oil filters have a thing called a backflow flap or valve, and if its too cheesy it doesn't work and lets the oil drain out of the engine back through the filter so the next time the engine is started oil has to refill the passages before any bearings etc see any oil pressure.

 

[Tpware]

Originally posted by: SharkyTM
any deals on Mobil-1 filters? They rock.

ugh, I went to install a M108 from autozone last weekend. Mobil had double threaded the filter, it was loaded with shavings ! Obviously I returned it and that was my last M1 filter. Shame, they do rock.. The manager at Autozone walked back there and we found several other sizes that also had bad threading. I know it was a mistake/fluke but you buy a $12 filter so you dont have to worry about mistakes.

 

[NuclearFetus]

I have been using synthetic oil for about 20 years. I have a '85 subaru with 254000 and never cracked the engine open for anything. Still starts like the day I bought it new. Mileage went up too. I use it in all my vehicles.

The point I would like to make is that I have only changed the oil on the car about 8 times so far. I use a full-depth filter made by amsoil that extends oil life wonderfully. I also use the bypass filter kit (also available from amsoil), much like Mercedes does, to filter oil particles down to below half a micron. I just change the filters every 6 months or a year.

I really didn't need to change the oil when I did but I just felt that giving the car a treat. Better mileage, longer drain times, less engine wear, greater ability to withstand stress. It all adds up to more money in my pocket when all is said and done.

I think Amsoil is a little better in performance (2-5% depending on the test being run) but it is a little more expensive unless you are a dealer (like me!)(shameless self promotion....)

 

[Oceanus]

OS thanks!

I remember the first time I noticed one local Target selling Mobil 1 for under $4 while the other two had it for $5.<a class=ftalternatingbarlinklarge href="http://www.chris-longhurst.com/carbibles/index.html?menu.html&engineoil_bible.html" target=blank>

Chris Longhurst's Engine Oil Bible</A> I found this to be informative, and naturally long and boring (given the topic what do you expect).

The American Petroleum Institute (API) service specification is critical, the higher the better (SL+). This relates to the oil's ability to pass various API tests for a given service level. All name brand oils will usually meet the current top rating.

The Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) rating is also critical, but needs to match your specific use. The SAE values do not directly relate to quality, they relate to how viscous the oil is when cold and when hot. (FYI: the "w" is for winter, not weight) A straight SAE 10 weight oil would be a (10w-10), 10 when cold, 10 when hot.

Anyway... For my wife's new Mazda (Ford) Tribute I'll be running Mobil 1's 0w-20 with a Pure One filter every 5k and saving receipts.

 

[NT4Mike]

About 4 years ago, target used to sell Mobil 1 by the 6-pack case. The beauty of the thing was that the barcode on the outside of the case was either the same barcode that was on the individual quart, or it was priced wrong in their system to be the price of a single quart. Over a period of several months, Target was my favorite place to buy oil. I just always made sure that I went through some young female cashier's line (which seems to be about 85% of them) and boom.... 6 quarts for the price of 1. After a while they stopped selling it by the case.

Oh how I long for those days. I love Mobil 1 and I have 3 vehicles with a combined mileage of over 600,000 miles that love it too. No engine problems taps or pings.

 

[KokomoGST]

Dayyyummm... if I can get that price at my local Target. I'm constantly buying Mobil 1 for my family's vehicles. 2 SUVs and 2 cars...

 

[Yo2]

There obviously is a lot of misinformation here: The oils are made to certain specifications (e.g. SAE and API). So are the engines. Is there anyone here who seriously thinks that say a 5W30 synthetic oil is any better than a 5W30 conventional oil - you guys have fallen for the same marketing hype as those that change their oil (conventional or synthetic) every 3000 miles. In many other countries (e.g. Germany) the standard oil change intervals are substantially higher (in Germany they are between 7500km and 10,000km (5 or 6,000 miles) - independent of synthetic or not, and engine wear obviously can be substantially higher over there too...

 

[jlin71]

Originally posted by: Yo2
There obviously is a lot of misinformation here: The oils are made to certain specifications (e.g. SAE and API). So are the engines. Is there anyone here who seriously thinks that say a 5W30 synthetic oil is any better than a 5W30 conventional oil - you guys have fallen for the same marketing hype as those that change their oil (conventional or synthetic) every 3000 miles. In many other countries (e.g. Germany) the standard oil change intervals are substantially higher (in Germany they are between 7500km and 10,000km (5 or 6,000 miles) - independent of synthetic or not, and engine wear obviously can be substantially higher over there too...

This just got to me as being so biased that I actually had to reg and post a reply to this. Do a used oil analysis. It's been proven time and time again that synthetic does provide FAR superior wear characteristics than conventional oil. Forget the fact that synthetic consistently nets a better mpg. If you're unwilling to do that, just check just the UOAs posted at http://www.mazda6tech.com/cms/index.php?id=66&PRATTCMS_USER=0c5b8753b281cca9decc6672db6fe0df before you really make any other judgement calls. And realize this, if synthetic was so useless, explain to me why these said german built cars have SYNTHETIC oil as their default FACTORY fill and is included in the car's maintenance package? It costs the auto builder a lot more to do so, and remember, german cars have a high amount of leases.

 

[ae86pwr]

All mercedes 98 and after with Flexible Service System requires Synthetic oil. Using Dinosaur oil will void warranty and eats up the piston ring. Mercedes USA got sued for letting dealers use mineral oil from 1998-2000. Thanks to that Mercedes has to warranty us with 10 year and 100,000 miles for the engine instead of the original 4yr/50000 mile.

 

[mgravy]

Yo2-

Industry testing has proven over and over again that synthetic oil it is far superior to conventional. That is just a plain fact and has nothing to do with marketing. -If you use a quality synthetic oil such Mobil 1, Red Line, AmsOil, or Synlube (not Castrol syntec!!).

When you look at API, SAE and ASTM standards the question to ask is -How does a product perform in relation to these standards, not just when new but at 5, 10 and 25K+ miles under severe service conditions. When a conventional oil breaks down and forms sludge, it does major damage. Synthetic oils resist this breakdown much longer and under more severe conditions.....fact.

 

[misterj]

www.bobistheoilguy.com

 

[geoffct]

simple fact: "most" engine wear occurs on cold engines.

why: the "standard" oil is made up of a mix of various length oil polymers, including your common parafin *AKA* WAX. Wax will not flow when cold. Synthetics are by their nature, a smaller range of polymer lengths, specifically excluding any lengths which will solidify on cold start. Therefore the oil flows as soon as your oil pump primes. ~5-20 engine revolutions.

Ford and Honda have switched to the 5-20 oils since they save a little bit of fuel economy (expect 1mpg on 30mpg car), but when you have to meet a CAFE (corporate average fuel economy) every bit helps =-)

Mobil 1 released their 0W-X oils to have an lower operating temperature for two reasons:
1 hype, they were the only major company to have a 0W-X and the largest range 0W-40 thereby securing the wow status
2 Some european manufacturer asked for a 0W-40 MB?

Now Perfect solutions:
For best fuel economy/performance you really need a dry sump system, where the crankshaft does not turn in the oil. The ultra-exotics do this since it gains ~2-4% hp. (also they can get the weight of the engine down about 3 inches but thats a different story)

A similar aftermarket addition is the Accusump which though not removing the sump (aka oil pan) installs an external oil tank, which will provide back-up oil pressure

Both systems allow oil to be supplied no matter what forces the engine maybe experiencing, and supply oil BEFORE the engine is started, almost eliminating normal friction wear on the engine.

Someday in the future if I get any say, you will see electric oil pumps, which can begin circulating oil the second you open the door of the car or press the clicker.


NOW back to the deal.

I have been buying either M1 or Amsoil for years now I have even tried the Redline, Royal Purple, Torco SR-1 (ahhh), Valvoline VR1. However for price and availibility no one beats M1 even at the $5 price

For 3.84 this is a steal, simply thanks.

Also don't skimp on the filters, thought the M1 is very good, all engines get byproducts of combustion in the oil, and the filter is the only thing stopping them from wearing your thinly coated niksol cylinder walls and oil pump teeth.

M1 filters are perfect but expensive and basic Fram are total crap, I even avoid their very good high end stuff just as a boycott for such a cheap company. Also K&N is not a very good anything filter, HP at the cost of filtration.

Rant off,
Geoff

Thanks again for the deal, now to find a Target with 0W-20

 

[firebob78]

Yeah, I usually buy my mobile one from walmart. I think Mobile One is the best to use.

 

[The Sauce]

Originally posted by: Yo2
There obviously is a lot of misinformation here: The oils are made to certain specifications (e.g. SAE and API). So are the engines. Is there anyone here who seriously thinks that say a 5W30 synthetic oil is any better than a 5W30 conventional oil - you guys have fallen for the same marketing hype as those that change their oil (conventional or synthetic) every 3000 miles. In many other countries (e.g. Germany) the standard oil change intervals are substantially higher (in Germany they are between 7500km and 10,000km (5 or 6,000 miles) - independent of synthetic or not, and engine wear obviously can be substantially higher over there too...

The misinformation you refer to is contained mostly within your own quote. SAE and API are minimum requirements for a specific grade. That's like saying that a P3 1Ghz is the same as a P4 3.4GHZ because the side of the Windows XP box says that minimum system specs require a P3 1Ghz. So as long as you are running XP, those two processors are identical? I think not. You obviously have a very superficial knowledge of mechanical oils and are repeating some very silly things you must have heard in the past. I suggest you go to the forums named above and read-up a little before making statements such as these.

 

[OS]

kragen has a coupon this week for mobil 1, all weights, 3.99 a quart for a case. Yes they do have 0w-20!!

Pepboys has the same coupon again this week as last.

 

[LennyZ]

My #1 reason for using Mobil 1: Toyota sludge
Mobil 1 is highly resistant to forming sludge.

 

[OS]

^

 

[maximo]

When I go to my walmart, they only have 10-20W (the multi vehicle synthetic mobil one), i think its the green labelled one. I am supposed to use 5-10w i think (the blue label), does it make a difference?

 

[JDub02]

Picked up a 6 qt case of Mobil 1 at Sam's Club for ~$22. Local wally world has it for ~$3.80 / qt and $19.xx for a 5 quart jug.

 

[CryHavoc]

Costco has cases of Mobile 1 in several weights for $24 and change per case of 6.