Mobile1 20k mile motor oil?

[JEDI]

https://mobiloil.com/en/article/why...ce/mobil-1-annual-protection-long-lasting-oil

I have a 2015 mazda3i. it uses synthetic 0w20 oil.
imy car has an oil change setting where it'll tell me when I need an oil change based on my driving habits.
ie: city or highway driving, constant low or high rpms

I drive mainly highway on cruise control, thus low rpms.
im at 14k miles since last oil change and the car's oil change setting says motor oil at 40%.
when at 0%, I get an oil change.
so it looks like 20k miles will be when I change the oil.

I do my own oil changes, and I use whatever oil is cheapest at the time.
last time was Penzoil and the oil filter is Supertech 10k miles (walmart brand).

this is the 1st time im using this oil change setting.
in the past, I just change it at 10k miles like clockwork.

What do you think about this Mobile1 20k mile oil?
worth the premium over regular synthetic motor oil?

or stick with whatever is cheapest for 20k oil changes?

 

[zerocool84]

0w20 is going to be synthetic no matter what. I personally would not spend extra money on a specific extended mileage oil. I never noticed a difference between Mobil 1, Royal Purple, Pennzoil, Quaker State, synthetics and I'm sure you won't either. As long as you check your oil levels regularly you'll be fine.

 

[blankslate]

The best way to be sure is to collect a sample of the used oil during an oil change and send it in to a lab to be analysed.

They'll look at the metal particulates in the oil as well as how depleted the protective additives typically put into the oil is.

Typically they'll show all the numbers in parts per million from the images of oil reports I have seen and then write a summary telling you how well your oil is protecting your engine with advice on how long you can really go between oil changes.

https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/engine-oil-analysis/

If you're feeling really froggy look into the controversy of 100% Synthetic Oil vs "Full Synthetic"

But really any name brand "Full Synthetic" oil should do fine unless you have a turbo or modified engine or just have "horrible wear and tear on the engine" driving habits.

*edited 2 add*
Personally for regular "Full Synthetic" I change it at about 7000 miles and the 20k kilometer extended performance "full Synthetic" oil I'd probably change at 15-16k kilometers. Admittedly I'm probably changing it too often.


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[JEDI]

The best way to be sure is to collect a sample of the used oil during an oil change and send it in to a lab to be analysed.

They'll look at the metal particulates in the oil as well as how depleted the protective additives typically put into the oil is.

Typically they'll show all the numbers in parts per million from the images of oil reports I have seen and then write a summary telling you how well your oil is protecting your engine with advice on how long you can really go between oil changes.

https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/engine-oil-analysis/

If you're feeling really froggy look into the controversy of 100% Synthetic Oil vs "Full Synthetic"

But really any name brand "Full Synthetic" oil should do fine unless you have a turbo or modified engine or just have "horrible wear and tear on the engine" driving habits.

*edited 2 add*
Personally for regular "Full Synthetic" I change it at about 7000 miles and the 20k kilometer extended performance "full Synthetic" oil I'd probably change at 15-16k kilometers. Admittedly I'm probably changing it too often.


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thx.
just ordered a blackstone test kit.
$28

 

[JEDI]

As long as you check your oil levels regularly you'll be fine.

all my oil changes, Im usually .5 quart short.

my mazda3 takes 4.25 quarts oil.
after I do the oil change, the dipstick says Im at the right oil levels.
but the next oil change (10k miles), only 3.5 - 3.75 quarts come out according to markings on the oil pan.

any ideas?

 

[frozentundra123456]

all my oil changes, Im usually .5 quart short.

my mazda3 takes 4.25 quarts oil.
after I do the oil change, the dipstick says Im at the right oil levels.
but the next oil change (10k miles), only 3.5 - 3.75 quarts come out according to markings on the oil pan.

any ideas?

All the oil is not draining out?? Does the dipstick show the engine to be full or 0.5 quart low when you change the oil? Not sure you can compare dipstick readings vs volume of oil drained out. If you want to see if you are using or leaking oil, just compare the dipstick readings when you have just added it and when you do the next change. How old is your car and how many miles? Using 0.5 quart between changes is not bad, although when new, both my Civic and Altima could go 10K without using any appreciable oil.

 

[LTC8K6]

Burning off a half quart over 10K would be fine.

 

[madoka]

I never noticed a difference between Mobil 1, Royal Purple, Pennzoil, Quaker State, synthetics and I'm sure you won't either.

I participated in various car forums. IIRC, two of the forums (Maxima and Odyssey) each had petroleum engineers whose job it was to keep track of motor oils. Both of them independently said that Mobil One was the way to go. That was enough to convince me which brand to stick to.

 

[blankslate]

thx.
just ordered a blackstone test kit.
$28

I realize I didn't completely answer your question.
On the oil manufacturers' websites for the different brands if you search the links you can find the PDS or product data sheets.
According to this site
https://blog.amsoil.com/how-much-synthetic-is-in-my-oil/

you can look at a couple of numbers and compare them between different brands of oil

Visit the manufacturer’s website and look at the product data sheet or technical data sheet for its oils. In this document, look for “Typical Physical Characteristics” or “Typical Technical Properties.” This section provides a high-level peek into the base oils used in the formulation. There are two numbers to pay attention to:

1. Viscosity Index: Oils with a higher number include a better synthetic base oil that provides more protection to critical components over a wide temperature range by maintaining fluid thickness and the necessary fluid barrier between parts.
2. Pour Point: measures the oil’s fluidity at cold temperatures and refers to the lowest temperature at which oil maintains its ability to flow. Lower numbers are likely to indicate a better synthetic base oil.

I've looked at different brands such as Castrol, Mobile 1, Penzioil, and Amsoil and the numbers for Moblie 1 did stick out as being better than the others as far as I can recall.
But not drastically so.

Moblie 1 "full Synthetic" extended performance had even better Viscosity Index and Pour point numbers than the non-extended performance Mobile 1.
However I'd suggest sticking to the manual's oil change intervals until your drivetrain warranty is expired. No need to give Mazda a possible excuse to wiggle out of the warranty if something does go south in the car.

One thing I would suggest is that when you start your car's engine let leave it in neutral or park for 15 seconds or if it is very cold maybe 25-30 seconds as this will allow modern engines to circulate the car manufacturer's specified oils throughout the engine from where it was sitting in the oil pan and can help protect the engine when you put the transmission in gear as opposed to just starting the engine and driving off immediately.

Additionally keep the rpms on the low side until the temperature gauge shows the engine at normal operating temps.

It's just some advice I heard and try to practice... if nothing else it let's the instrument panel light up all the warning lights and then turn them off in my car.

It may not be strictly necessary but I don't see how it could hurt either.


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[nk215]

I change my oil once/year regardless of how little I drive. For one of my vehicles that's less than 2k miles. I would change the oil myself but my better half wants the dealer to take care of it (still under warranty). They charge me $350 for the oil change including inspection (free) and emission ($20 exempt due to too little mileage driven).

 

[NutBucket]

Burning off a half quart over 10K would be fine.

Yep. Anything less than a quart between changes is "normal" imho.

 

[paperfist]

I thought the Penzioil synthetic made by using natural gas was the best?

I usually use Royal Pure, but read the Penz was better and was going up switch.

I let my Prius tell me when to change it. Just ordered a Blackstone kit as well.

 

[microAmp]

I just use their 15k oil and change it out every 15k. The 20k oil cost way more than the 15k, doesn't bring in a cost benefit at all.

 

[dave_the_nerd]

Too paranoid to do that. I check levels regularly and change mine more often than the manufacturer recommends. (5k vs. 7.5k.)

 

[microAmp]

Too paranoid to do that. I check levels regularly and change mine more often than the manufacturer recommends. (5k vs. 7.5k.)

First time I used the 15k oil, I changed it at 10k, sent oil off to be analyzed and came back fine. Then did 15k, and multiple times at 15k, oil data came back fine. They wanted me to try 17k but I went with the manufactures recommendation, 15k.

 

[blankslate]

I thought the Penzioil synthetic made by using natural gas was the best?

I usually use Royal Pure, but read the Penz was better and was going up switch.

I let my Prius tell me when to change it. Just ordered a Blackstone kit as well.

I think the Ultra Platinum full synthetic from Penzoil is the one you're asking about as opposed to the Penzoil Platinum which usually runs about 5-7 bucks less iirc

I think next oil change I'm going to try AMSoil 100% synthetic. Some people using amsoil regularly have claimed around a 5 hp increase in engine power. but it is in the royal purple price range.

my 5ish year old engine with around 85k miles doesn't seem to be burning or leaking oil at all when I check the levels periodically so "full synthetics" are probably enough.


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[olds]

.... I never noticed a difference between Mobil 1, Royal Purple, Pennzoil, Quaker State, synthetics and I'm sure you won't either...

It's not applicable here but...
I had Quaker State break down in about 10 hours of use. Granted it was in a built 455 in a jet boat. The lifter/rockers got real noisy. Pulled valve covers and found nothing wrong. Changed to Royal Purple and had no further issues.

 

[Yuriman]

My Honda Insight is nearing 250k miles. It takes 2.6 quarts, and when I change the oil, ~2.6 quarts comes out. My last change I did at 12k miles, and when I sent it off to blackstone, they mentioned that wear looked a little above what is ideal, and suggested a shorter OCI. I was using Honda's Green Oil, rather than the usual Mobile 1 0w20, which is considerably thinner when cold. I figured that was probably good for Vermont winters.

I was being pretty rough on the engine this past winter though. Temps were often subzero, I had a lot of short trips that didn't fully warm the engine up, and for a few months I had the hybrid system turned off (no assist) while I traced down a water leak so I was really wringing the engine out pretty regularly. My commute is a bit longer now so it warms everything up, and I plan to take Mobile 1 to 10k this time and get another analysis done.

 

[paperfist]

I think the Ultra Platinum full synthetic from Penzoil is the one you're asking about as opposed to the Penzoil Platinum which usually runs about 5-7 bucks less iirc

I think next oil change I'm going to try AMSoil 100% synthetic. Some people using amsoil regularly have claimed around a 5 hp increase in engine power. but it is in the royal purple price range.

my 5ish year old engine with around 85k miles doesn't seem to be burning or leaking oil at all when I check the levels periodically so "full synthetics" are probably enough.


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Yeah I think that's the one. It was only $26 at Walmart. Now I'm thinking I bought the wrong one. hmm maybe I should just stick to Royal Purple, really only saving $10.

I've used AmSoil oils before in my moms Saturn that had a loud motor and it made it go away

 

[blankslate]

Burning off a half quart over 10K would be fine.

Yep. Anything less than a quart between changes is "normal" imho.

So if I notice no appreciable drop in oil level between changes and notice no oil stains where I park between oil changes I can take that as evidence that my engine is doing well (as far as wear on parts protected by the oil goes)?

I've used AmSoil oils before in my moms Saturn that had a loud motor and it made it go away

Now I'm really thinking of spending the extra amount to try AMSoil 100% synthetic.

I think based on the numbers I've seen on the product data sheets for the different brands I'm sure you can go with the cheapest brand name "Full Synthetic" in the weight appropriate for your engine and be fine or just look for deals and stock up at that time on the more pricey oils.


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[dave_the_nerd]

So if I notice no appreciable drop in oil level between changes and notice no oil stains where I park between oil changes I can take that as evidence that my engine is doing well (as far as wear on parts protected by the oil goes)?

Basically.

Although the inverse is not quite true. A minor oil leak is not necessarily indicative of a bad engine (it could be a bad gasket or rubber bit, or an improperly installed oil filter, etc.) and some engines that are "famous" for burning oil can last a long time. (Like the 4-cylinder engines in the old Saturns; they'd all start burning oil around 120k miles, but if you kept them topped off they'd last for 300k no problem.)

 

[Gordon Walter]

Mobil 1 Extended Performance, which offered a 15,000-mile guarantee, was already at the industry's sweet spot. Mobil 1 Annual Protection simply occupied shelf space at Walmart and other oil retailers throughout the country with minimal movement. I think this oil just sits. What do you think, should Mobil aim for that level of longevity? Or is there some type of psychological issue that keeps most consumers from accepting that long of an oil change interval?

 

[paperfist]

Mobil 1 Extended Performance, which offered a 15,000-mile guarantee, was already at the industry's sweet spot. Mobil 1 Annual Protection simply occupied shelf space at Walmart and other oil retailers throughout the country with minimal movement. I think this oil just sits. What do you think, should Mobil aim for that level of longevity? Or is there some type of psychological issue that keeps most consumers from accepting that long of an oil change interval?

Well for umpteen years we were fed on changing oil every 3,000 miles so 15k is quite a leap. Also, the lowley filter which I don't think has gone through any major change is also supposed to last for that life span.

Hard to swallow.

 

[blankslate]

Or is there some type of psychological issue that keeps most consumers from accepting that long of an oil change interval?

As Paperfist said for quite a long while people were told every 3k miles. Changes in oil refining techniques and better engineered car engines have extended the usable life of oils in late model cars by at least double the old standard 3k miles as long as you use the oil specified in the owner's manual.


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[Not So Mild]

Well for umpteen years we were fed on changing oil every 3,000 miles so 15k is quite a leap. Also, the lowley filter which I don't think has gone through any major change is also supposed to last for that life span.

Hard to swallow.

On that same note, most people also just go by what their owner's manual says. When their manual says to change the oil every 3k miles, that's what they do. They don't account for the benefit of using a higher quality oil, and don't buy into the marketing of 15k mile oil when they'll change it after 3k.