Mower needs an oil change.....which weight?

[Meghan54]

OK....the JD X300 of mine hit 8 hours of run last night, so its first oil change is due. Question is what weight would be the best compromise for it?

First, it's going to be a synthetic oil. Seems to me that this is one case for the use of synthetics...hot running engine that sees a lot of stress. And JD's "recommended" oil, their own brand--LOL--is a synthetic blend, so a full synth shouldn't be too bad.

But the real question is weight/viscosity range.

JD lists 4 different viscosity oils to use with their associated temp ranges:

5W-30 for temps -20F - 105F

10W-30 -> -5F - 105F

10W-40 -> -5F - 122F

15W-40 -> 10F - 122F


Now, I live in SC, NW corner. I doubt it'll get down below freezing for any length of time around here at any point in the year, so the 5W or 10W-30 weight oils seem kinda iffy for high temp mowing, and I mow when it's well over 90F outside.

I'm leaning towards the 10W-40 as 15W-40 is damned hard to find locally, outside Royal Purple. In a 10W-40, I can find Mobil1, Pennzoil Platinum, Castrol Edge, and some Valvoline.

Sound about right? The temp range for the 10W-40 is just about perfect for our environment.

 

[EagleKeeper]

10/30 or 10/40

Which ever you can obtain and store for later use.

While the 10/30 is listed to 105F; I doubt very strongly that you will be mowing above 95 unless you are in a cab.

 

[Jimzz]

I use 10w30 Syn in my riding mower. Also use it in my air compressor as well.

I have also used several differant brands and have not had any problems with any. Using Napa Syn 10w30 right now.

 

[tortoise]

15W-40 is damned hard to find locally

Check if Walmart has Delo 400LE.

Some oil comparisons . . heavy duty . . synthetics.

 

[Bartman39]

I run Castrol Syntec 10-40wt in my Toro Titan (22HP Kawasaki) and have had no issues and zero oil consumption which can happen with multi viscosity oil in air cooled small engines... Keeping the air filter clean is also a very important part of the life of one of these small engines... (a very dirty air filter can also cause oil consumption)

 

[Fritzo]

I literally have used any spare oil I have had laying around in my mower and it has ran flawlessly since 1996.

 

[olds]

10/30 or 10/40

Which ever you can obtain and store for later use.

While the 10/30 is listed to 105F; I doubt very strongly that you will be mowing above 95 unless you are in a cab.

Or mowing when it's 5 degrees.

 

[OILFIELDTRASH]

Costco has some 10w30 for cheap in bulk.

It's a friggin lawnmower. I've ran a honda push mower for 9 years without an air filter and changed the oil 3 times in nine years. Still runs like a champ. I change my rider yearly since I spent a whopping $900 on it and it's lasted two seasons with nothing more than replacing blades.

 

[WilliamM2]

Since most wear is from a cold start, I use 5W30 in all my lawn equipment. Never bothered with synthetic either. Seems a waste on something as cheap as a snow blower or lawn mower. I got 18 years from my last blower, and 20 years out of my last mower changing the oil every 4 or 5 years. And they weren't replaced due to engine problems, they still ran perfectly and always started on the first pull.

 

[Jimzz]

^

Most small motors today either say use their brand 30 weight or a Syn 10w30. Even my 60gallon air compressor says the same thing. The owners manual, like the OP said, may have other weights but the sticker on the engine said syn 10w30 for mine.

I agree most will hold up as long as they have oil in them period. But for me the 10w30 syn works best. I have never had to top off my riding mower since I switched.

 

[Nessism]

Manual says 10W-40. I'd use 5W-40 Rotella synthetic. Available for cheap at Walmart. Diesel oil like this has about 40% more phosphorus and zinc (high pressure anti wear additives) than auto oil. Guys on Bob is the Oil guy forum LOVE their Rotella! Great oil for anything without a cat. (like motorcycles). Even rated for wet clutch use.