My refrigerator is not working...

[homestarmy]

Well I found that water was dripping from the bottom of my refrigerator, then found that my ice cream, etc was soft. The thing is getting power, and it sounds like it is running, but things are not cold. I just unplugged it for a couple of minutes and plugged it back in, not sure if that has helped, to soon to tell.

This is a kenmore that is a rebadged frigidare if I remembered correctly. The sears model number I think is 52642.

Anyone had this problem? Sears wants $50 for someone to look at it plus parts and labor and will give NO ESTIMATION WHATSOEVER. They also give a $220 plan to cover anything that goes wrong and also give a year warranty. Without any guidelines, I have no idea as to what I should do. This fridge is only ~2.5 years old, and it is no cheapie. WTF? This makes me so angry...

Please, if you have any estimation as to what part might be dead, how much it might cost, experience with Sears, if I should call someone else, tell me PLEASE. I currently have an appointment for Saturday, and have went for the $50 charge, but can change my mind before he comes, but not after.

:disgust::|

 

[eakers]

:Q
I guess they don't make them like they used to.
(sorry i am not more help)

 

[Eli]

There isn't much to replace that is cheap in a fridge that isn't working.

 

[DaTT]

I assume compressor is gone......keep the door closed or things will go bad.

 

[Pepsei]

i fixed my own fridge for cheap. i should have a thread somewhere... see if you had the same problem

edit, can't find that thread.

Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.

The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.

Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the self-defrosting system:

* The defrost timer


* The defrost thermostat (also called the bi-metal switch)


* The defrost heater

i wanted to replace the timer myself, but couldn't find the part, so i got the thermostat instead. and it turned out to be the part that fixed the problem.

 

[TheChort]

for a second i thought you said your air conditioner wasnt working



edit: or is this just a reference to just too long ago

 

[Pepsei]

oh, that thermostat cost me about $20 or so? see if you can download the pdf of the fridge model from the net. i got it for mine and i used it to find the part number and got the part from an appliance store.

 

[homestarmy]

Ok, I figured it was not under warranty, but I found that the cooling system is warranted for 5 years.

How likely is it that it is something else? I did not have any kind of frost buildup at all, and it sounds like the thing is running. I powercycled the thing and I put something in there to measure the temperature to see if it is dropping.

The idiots at sears gave me a bit of a runaround when I called to say it was in warranty. My warranty says nothing about parts or labor, it says straight up FREE. First lady said that it was only parts, and the lady before her said they close at 8pm CST. I get transferred to warranty, tell my story, they transfer me back without saying a word, this lady didn't seem like an idiot like the rest, and she states they are open 24-7. Sounds like a f'in circus to me...

 

[morkus64]

It's probably on strike until you learn how to spell

 

[electricJ]

A rebadged frigidaire? That explains everything there.

Sorry, I'm biased... I work for a competitor in the industry.

 

[Bozono]

Originally posted by: electricJ
A rebadged frigidaire? That explains everything there.

QFT. I have a 2 year old Frigidaire that's about to sing it's last tune.

Does the fridge make a loud, brief "pop" when the compressor turns on? If it does, start shopping.

 

[JDrake]

Its not running ?

 

[homestarmy]

Originally posted by: morkus64
It's probably on strike until you learn how to spell

Please do not post this unless you are willing to point out what I have misspelled.

I realize you are being funny, but please be helpful at the same time.

 

[homestarmy]

Originally posted by: Bozono

Originally posted by: electricJ
A rebadged frigidaire? That explains everything there.

QFT. I have a 2 year old Frigidaire that's about to sing it's last tune.

Does the fridge make a loud, brief "pop" when the compressor turns on? If it does, start shopping.

Yeah, I didn't know it was a rebadged frigidaire until I went shopping for an OVERPRICED water filter. I see it requires a frigidaire one.

I would have personally went for a whirlpool. What company do you work for Bozono? Do you know any statistics on falure rates between brands in the industry?

 

[Kelemvor]

You didn't get a warranty with it? Sears has dirt cheap warranties on most stuff they sell that covers everything.

ALl you can do is call around to some other repair places and see what they say.

 

[edro]

I think there is an extra "d" in there somewhere...

Actually... keep it there. Words that change the root spelling are retarded. Fridge should equal refridgerator.

Good job sticking it to the system!

 

[homestarmy]

Exactly my point. It's either refrigerator and fridge or refrigerator and frige. WTF?

Language is what you make it, really. You misspell something enough and it becomes the correct spelling. You mess it up enough and they'll make it a new language or dialect, like ebonics.

Anyone know how much the warranty would have costed me? I actually bought it through a friend who worked there and all, so I think getting that warranty might have been complicated, but I don't remember exactly my reasoning back then. I was just buying my home, homeless (living at work and in my car), and under a lot of stress.

 

[homestarmy]

BTW, it seemed like it was always running.

So if they come out and it is not the cooling system, it will be the $50 plus time and labor or the $220 which covers all of it and gives me a year warranty.

What do you guys think is the better choice?

 

[homestarmy]

If it is always running as I have stated, should I just unplug the thing to make sure there is no further damage?

 

[homestarmy]

Originally posted by: Pepsei
i fixed my own fridge for cheap. i should have a thread somewhere... see if you had the same problem

edit, can't find that thread.

Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.

The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.

Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the self-defrosting system:

* The defrost timer


* The defrost thermostat (also called the bi-metal switch)


* The defrost heater

i wanted to replace the timer myself, but couldn't find the part, so i got the thermostat instead. and it turned out to be the part that fixed the problem.

In my case, I have no ice build up whatsoever, should I try this anyway? Everything in there is either gone or will be bad soon anyway...

 

[DeadByDawn]

$87

 

[Vic]

You should just buy a new one.

 

[homestarmy]

$900 fridge and I should buy a new one every 2.5 years?

Are you insane or ignorant?

 

[Injury]

Originally posted by: joedrake
Its not running ?

At least he can't get the classic phone prank pulled on him.

 

[Pepsi90919]

Originally posted by: eakers
:Q
I guess they don't make them like they used to.
(sorry i am not more help)

why, because 1 out of 827959835789235 broke?