n00b Home Repair/Handyman thread?

Mermaidman

Diamond Member
Sep 4, 2003
7,987
93
91
n00bs post your questions! Experts post your answers.

Me first:

"Will it be disastrous if I use a small circular saw (5.5") to cut down a small tree ~3" diameter?"

"Cold air is blowing into the house from the flue-less fireplace. How do I stop it?"
 

theknight571

Platinum Member
Mar 23, 2001
2,896
2
81
How tall is said tree, and where is it located?
- My answer as of now... No.. just make sure it's not going to fall on anyone/thing.
- How To (with a Chainsaw)


Flue-less: Duct tape and plastic sheeting. or Install glass fireplace doors.
- Example: Glass Fireplace Doors (note: just an example... not an endorsement )
 

jme5343

Platinum Member
Nov 21, 2003
2,333
0
71
I'd just use a bow saw on the tree. Shouldn't take more than a minute to cut through.

x2 on theknight's fireplace idea
 

elektrolokomotive

Golden Member
Jan 14, 2004
1,637
0
0
- Not disastrous, but probably kinda dangerous and might torque the blade or bind it. watch for kickback.

- Is the fireplace used regularly?
 

daveshel

Diamond Member
Oct 10, 1999
5,453
2
81
If I couldn't get ahold of a chainsaw, I might cut partway through with the circular saw, then finish with a hand saw.
 

Mermaidman

Diamond Member
Sep 4, 2003
7,987
93
91
Thanks for the replies.
-I'll get a handsaw for the tree (or try Daveshel's method)
-Fireplace is never used, and I found out something about the air flow. It's not coming through the fireplace, but rather under the fireplace where the controls are located.
See this sample pic
The air current is coming strongly through the lower gold trim, which hides the controls. I imagine that the current is somehow flowing inside the wall because cold air is blowing from the electrical outlets next to the fireplace!
 

theknight571

Platinum Member
Mar 23, 2001
2,896
2
81
Originally posted by: Mermaidman
Thanks for the replies.
-I'll get a handsaw for the tree (or try Daveshel's method)
-Fireplace is never used, and I found out something about the air flow. It's not coming through the fireplace, but rather under the fireplace where the controls are located.
See this sample pic
The air current is coming strongly through the lower gold trim, which hides the controls. I imagine that the current is somehow flowing inside the wall because cold air is blowing from the electrical outlets next to the fireplace!

Is that a gas fireplace?

Is there a damper outside on the vent?

Check the caulking around the vent.

<not an expert> If it's new construction then I would think there would have to be a damper somwhere .. I would think that would be code. </not an expert>

Also, they make "foam" pads that are shaped like outlet faceplates that you put on under the real faceplate in order to seal drafts. (Never used one.. but have seen them in the store...might be worth a shot if you can't track down the "air intake")
 

DaveJ

Platinum Member
Oct 9, 1999
2,337
1
81
Guess I'll hijack this thread for my own purposes...

I've got a dripping faucet, and I'm trying to get the aerator off so I can replace the washer but it's just about welded itself to the faucet. So far I've tried soaking it in vinegar overnight and spraying it liberally with WD40, but the damn thing won't budge. How do I get this thing off, or am I going to have to replace the entire faucet?

Dave
 

Mermaidman

Diamond Member
Sep 4, 2003
7,987
93
91
Originally posted by: DaveJ
Guess I'll hijack this thread for my own purposes...

I've got a dripping faucet, and I'm trying to get the aerator off so I can replace the washer but it's just about welded itself to the faucet. So far I've tried soaking it in vinegar overnight and spraying it liberally with WD40, but the damn thing won't budge. How do I get this thing off, or am I going to have to replace the entire faucet?

Dave
That's what this thread is for

Did you try using locking pliers to remove the aerator?
 

iamwiz82

Lifer
Jan 10, 2001
30,772
13
81
WD40 isn't going to loosen something that is stuck as well as a real penetrating oil.
 

jme5343

Platinum Member
Nov 21, 2003
2,333
0
71
Originally posted by: Mermaidman
Originally posted by: DaveJ
Guess I'll hijack this thread for my own purposes...

I've got a dripping faucet, and I'm trying to get the aerator off so I can replace the washer but it's just about welded itself to the faucet. So far I've tried soaking it in vinegar overnight and spraying it liberally with WD40, but the damn thing won't budge. How do I get this thing off, or am I going to have to replace the entire faucet?

Dave
That's what this thread is for

Did you try using locking pliers to remove the aerator?

I always use channel locks *and a rag doubled over*. Otherwise you'll get nasty marks on the chrome. Our town shuts the water off randomly. Usually when it comes back on I have to clean the aerator b/c of all the junk that gets blown out.
 

DaveJ

Platinum Member
Oct 9, 1999
2,337
1
81
Originally posted by: Mermaidman
Originally posted by: DaveJ
Guess I'll hijack this thread for my own purposes...

I've got a dripping faucet, and I'm trying to get the aerator off so I can replace the washer but it's just about welded itself to the faucet. So far I've tried soaking it in vinegar overnight and spraying it liberally with WD40, but the damn thing won't budge. How do I get this thing off, or am I going to have to replace the entire faucet?

Dave
That's what this thread is for

Did you try using locking pliers to remove the aerator?

No, I've just tried regular adjustable pliers. Guess I'll head over to Lowes after work and get a pair of locking ones.
 

theknight571

Platinum Member
Mar 23, 2001
2,896
2
81
Originally posted by: DaveJ
Guess I'll hijack this thread for my own purposes...

I've got a dripping faucet, and I'm trying to get the aerator off so I can replace the washer but it's just about welded itself to the faucet. So far I've tried soaking it in vinegar overnight and spraying it liberally with WD40, but the damn thing won't budge. How do I get this thing off, or am I going to have to replace the entire faucet?

Dave

Do you have a small strap wrench?

I love these things.

Might help get a good grip on the aerator.

Are you sure the leak is from the aerator? Typically (at least in my experience) leaks seem to be caused more by worn washers in the stems/valves and or a damaged valve seat.

<Disclaimer> I am not a plumber (union or otherwise ) but I occaisionally play one on the weekends... so I am far from expert in these issues </Disclaimer>
 

DaveJ

Platinum Member
Oct 9, 1999
2,337
1
81
Originally posted by: theknight571
Originally posted by: DaveJ
Guess I'll hijack this thread for my own purposes...

I've got a dripping faucet, and I'm trying to get the aerator off so I can replace the washer but it's just about welded itself to the faucet. So far I've tried soaking it in vinegar overnight and spraying it liberally with WD40, but the damn thing won't budge. How do I get this thing off, or am I going to have to replace the entire faucet?

Dave

Do you have a small strap wrench?

I love these things.

Might help get a good grip on the aerator.

Are you sure the leak is from the aerator? Typically (at least in my experience) leaks seem to be caused more by worn washers in the stems/valves and or a damaged valve seat.

<Disclaimer> I am not a plumber (union or otherwise ) but I occaisionally play one on the weekends... so I am far from expert in these issues </Disclaimer>

Hey, that wrench is nifty... might have to get one of those. I'm pretty sure it's the aerator, I haven't noticed any leaks anywhere except from the faucet head.

Iamwiz: Righty-tighty, lefty-loosy, right? Yeah, I think I'm turning it the right way...
 

clamum

Lifer
Feb 13, 2003
26,255
403
126
Hahaha a circular or chain saw for a 3" diameter tree? Unless you're unable to saw or just a wimp use a freaking hand saw.
 

d3n

Golden Member
Mar 13, 2004
1,597
0
0
Originally posted by: clamum
Hahaha a circular or chain saw for a 3" diameter tree? Unless you're unable to saw or just a wimp use a freaking hand saw.

Just a note to the uninformed that this is not the same as a hack saw. The size of the teeth on the blade should be fairly pronounced.
 

theknight571

Platinum Member
Mar 23, 2001
2,896
2
81
Originally posted by: clamum
Hahaha a circular or chain saw for a 3" diameter tree? Unless you're unable to saw or just a wimp use a freaking hand saw.

Perhaps he does not own a hand saw, but has a circular saw.

I don't own a hand saw, and would not go buy one just for this single cut.

I've used my circular saw to cut roots and branches etc... not a problem. Just needs a new blade from time to time.

<thinking out loud> I can't think of anyone I know that has a hand saw... other than a hacksaw</thinking out loud>
 
Apr 30, 2005
81
0
66
Hopefully someone can help me out.

A screw holding a kitchen cabinet door hinge to the cabinet frame came out. There is a gaping hole where it used to be, so I cannot screw it back in. I purchased some Minwax wood filler that claimed to allow driving screws/nails. It failed miserably, turning to dust when I drove the screw back in.

Is there a better product? I know the correct technique is to glue a wooden dowel in place, cut it off, and drive the screw into the dowel, but that is beyond my skillset.

Cheers.

 

theknight571

Platinum Member
Mar 23, 2001
2,896
2
81
Originally posted by: AllGoodNamesAreTaken
Hopefully someone can help me out.

A screw holding a kitchen cabinet door hinge to the cabinet frame came out. There is a gaping hole where it used to be, so I cannot screw it back in. I purchased some Minwax wood filler that claimed to allow driving screws/nails. It failed miserably, turning to dust when I drove the screw back in.

Is there a better product? I know the correct technique is to glue a wooden dowel in place, cut it off, and drive the screw into the dowel, but that is beyond my skillset.

Cheers.

It's not that hard.. I use golf tees.

- Drill out the hole so it's about the same size as the tee...
- squeeze in some glue...
- tap tee into hole...
- wait for it to dry...
- cut tee flush with surface...
- drill small pilot hole for new screw...
- drive new screw into place.

I did this 6 times when my son and his friends toor the door off the wall.... pulled out all 6 screws.... door is up there like nothing ever happened.

For those interested...

He had friends over for the night, and they were trying to keep each other in/out of the room by holding the door shut.... he and one of his friends put their shoulders into the door, trying to force the others out of the way, and it came off.

They got in trouble...but the look on their faces when I went up to see WTF was happening was priceless... lol
 

djheater

Lifer
Mar 19, 2001
14,637
2
0
Originally posted by: DaveJ
Originally posted by: theknight571
Originally posted by: DaveJ
Guess I'll hijack this thread for my own purposes...

I've got a dripping faucet, and I'm trying to get the aerator off so I can replace the washer but it's just about welded itself to the faucet. So far I've tried soaking it in vinegar overnight and spraying it liberally with WD40, but the damn thing won't budge. How do I get this thing off, or am I going to have to replace the entire faucet?

Dave

Do you have a small strap wrench?

I love these things.

Might help get a good grip on the aerator.

Are you sure the leak is from the aerator? Typically (at least in my experience) leaks seem to be caused more by worn washers in the stems/valves and or a damaged valve seat.

<Disclaimer> I am not a plumber (union or otherwise ) but I occaisionally play one on the weekends... so I am far from expert in these issues </Disclaimer>

Hey, that wrench is nifty... might have to get one of those. I'm pretty sure it's the aerator, I haven't noticed any leaks anywhere except from the faucet head.

Iamwiz: Righty-tighty, lefty-loosy, right? Yeah, I think I'm turning it the right way...

Unless you're south of the equator.





 

thedarkwolf

Diamond Member
Oct 13, 1999
9,003
111
106
Originally posted by: AllGoodNamesAreTaken
Hopefully someone can help me out.

A screw holding a kitchen cabinet door hinge to the cabinet frame came out. There is a gaping hole where it used to be, so I cannot screw it back in. I purchased some Minwax wood filler that claimed to allow driving screws/nails. It failed miserably, turning to dust when I drove the screw back in.

Is there a better product? I know the correct technique is to glue a wooden dowel in place, cut it off, and drive the screw into the dowel, but that is beyond my skillset.

Cheers.

You can also just use some wood glue and a toothpick or even just the toothpick. Just break it off in there and screw away .
 
Dec 27, 2001
11,272
1
0
Originally posted by: thedarkwolf
Originally posted by: AllGoodNamesAreTaken
Hopefully someone can help me out.

A screw holding a kitchen cabinet door hinge to the cabinet frame came out. There is a gaping hole where it used to be, so I cannot screw it back in. I purchased some Minwax wood filler that claimed to allow driving screws/nails. It failed miserably, turning to dust when I drove the screw back in.

Is there a better product? I know the correct technique is to glue a wooden dowel in place, cut it off, and drive the screw into the dowel, but that is beyond my skillset.

Cheers.

You can also just use some wood glue and a toothpick or even just the toothpick. Just break it off in there and screw away .

Wood glue, gorilla glue, most any glue. The other thing to try would be an epoxy filler.
 

mobobuff

Lifer
Apr 5, 2004
11,100
1
81
If you're trying to get a threaded aerator off, you'd have to twist clockwise instead of counter-clockwise like normal, because you're behind the thread instead of in front of it (does that make sense?). Locking pliers and a cloth or a strap wrench would do well.

Quick MS-PAINT job
 
Apr 30, 2005
81
0
66
Originally posted by: thedarkwolf

You can also just use some wood glue and a toothpick or even just the toothpick. Just break it off in there and screw away .

Hmmm, I'm not sure if toothpicks or golf tees ( mentioned by another poster ) will help me in this case. The hole is at least 4 screw diameters high and 2 screw diameters wide. It looks to me as if the installer tried to place the screw in 3 locations before finally securing it at an upward angle. I don't even own a drill , which is why I was looking for a "space age" solution.


Cheers.
 
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