Need advice on a new jacket

[Canai]

So I'm looking into getting a technical hardshell, since now is the best time of the year to buy. I figured here would be a good place to ask since half the ice climbers I know are IT pros, and this forum was the first place I heard about Arc'Teryx jackets.

Anyway, to the point. I need a waterproof hardshell. I'd prefer it to be uninsulated, as my Gamma MX keeps me plenty warm over a baselayer. I was looking at an Arc'Teryx Alpha SL, but I'm a little concerned about possible durability issues with the Gore-Tex Paclite material, as I will be hiking and rock and ice climbing in it. The Gore Pro version of the jacket is a little outside my price range, so I'm looking at some other manufacturers.

Anyone have any suggestions? I'm looking at a Marmot Troll Wall which is 3-ply Gore Pro fabric, and also at a non-gore shell, the Stoic eVent Stash. Online reviews are useless because everybody loves the jacket they bought with little to no objective observations.

I need something durable that is 100% waterproof, light, core vented, and has a helmet compatible hood. Hopefully one of you guys can help or direct me to a better resource.

Thanks in advance!

 

[GoSharks]

I definitely would not want to rock climb in Paclite... But, why would you be still be on rock if you required a hardshell. Anything that approaches a limit of a softshell while on the rock probably means that it is time to call it a day.

Event is better than Gore Pro in terms of breathablity. Check the REI Shuksan, although I think it is more a mid-durabilty jacket.

 

[Mike Gayner]

It's official - ATOTers now need to post for help on dressing themselves.

 

[Canai]

I definitely would not want to rock climb in Paclite... But, why would you be still be on rock if you required a hardshell. Anything that approaches a limit of a softshell while on the rock probably means that it is time to call it a day.

Event is better than Gore Pro in terms of breathablity. Check the REI Shuksan, although I think it is more a mid-durabilty jacket.

Yeah around here the approach can be kind of hairy so if the weather turns there can be some bumps and grinds on the way down. But I think you are right in that I should go for Pro instead of Paclite. The Shuksan looks ok, but for the same price I could get the Millet jacket I've been looking at. http://www.backcountry.com/outdoorg....html?AID=10281785&PID=1307202&SID=G234234234 but it doesn't have core venting so I'm a little weary on that one. The Millet one is currently at the top of the list, but I'd really like one with pit zips or other core venting.

It's official - ATOTers now need to post for help on dressing themselves.

I thought this was common knowledge?

 

[Canai]

Bumptybump for the justgothomefromwork crowd? I'm getting close to pulling the trigger on that Millet jacket.

 

[GoSharks]

Do you need to buy it right now?

What about this
http://www.backcountry.com/outdoorgear/Marmot-Alpinist-Jacket-Mens/MAR1221M.html
You didn't mention what size you need.

 

[Canai]

Do you need to buy it right now?

What about this
http://www.backcountry.com/outdoorgear/Marmot-Alpinist-Jacket-Mens/MAR1221M.html
You didn't mention what size you need.

Well, I have a tax return burning a hole in my pocket, and all of last years jackets are on sale, so yeah, right now haha. At least before the stocks run out. Sizing is L or XL depending on the measurements, XL to be safe for layering.

The Alpinist is nice, but I guess I need more of a climbing cut jacket than a skiing cut one. The main use of the jacket will be for waterfall ice climbing and inclement weather hiking/backpacking. Perhaps some mountaineering this winter as well, depending on which NOLS course I decide on.

Do you know anything about Millet? I've never heard much about them before, but from what I've been reading they're cut like Arc'Teryx and are of similar build quality. I'm leaning heavily towards that Millet shell at the moment, but grr some pit zips would be nice.

 

[GoSharks]

Do you know anything about Millet? I've never heard much about them before, but from what I've been reading they're cut like Arc'Teryx and are of similar build quality. I'm leaning heavily towards that Millet shell at the moment, but grr some pit zips would be nice.

Don't have personal experience with Millet. However, based on the products of theirs that I've seen online, they seem to be pretty high quality and compete with the likes of Mammut in the European markets.

For other brands to look into, apart from the obvious Mtn Hdw, Marmot, TNF, you should look into Mammut, they focus on climbing related products. Also check RAB. Both make very good gear, and have European (typically more snug) sizing.