Need help choosing fans and controlling them.

[OmarWazzan]

I have decided to use two of these for the radiator. I'm having issues because it needs a large amount of voltage to spin-up and most fan controllers don't have this, and I can't really find any documentation for my chosen motherboard. The case does come with a "PWM fan hub plus 2x y-splitters allow for 8 fan connections (11 fans max with additional y-splitters sold separately)".
The most important thing for the fans is that they be quiet, but still can pack a cooling punch if ever needed. Brand doesn't matter either, as long as it adheres to the color scheme (red and black). I don't mind any changes to the amount/size of the fans either. Positive pressure is preferred to keep the dust out.

Thanks!

(the fans supplied with the case are good quality, but I'd like to replace just for the colors.)


Fan setup will be:

2 Top Mounted 140mm Radiator Fans + radiator. [INTAKE]

2 Front Mounted 120/140mm Red LED fans. [INTAKE]

1 Rear Mounted 140mm fan. [OUTTAKE]

1 or 2 Bottom mounted 120/140mm fan(s). [OUTTAKE]

1 120mm HDD Fan [INTAKE]

___________________________________________________
The case, an Phanteks Enthoo Luxe, can mount the following:



FANS | 120mm | 140mm | 200mm
--------|-----------|-----------|---------------------
Front | x2 | x2 | x1 (included)
Top | x3 | x3 (1 included) | x1
Rear | x1 | x1 (included) | -
Bottom | x2 | x1 | -
HDD | x2 | - | -
_____________________________________________________

The Build:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i7-4790K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($279.99 @ Micro Center)
CPU Cooler: Corsair H110i GT 113.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($119.99 @ NCIX US)
Thermal Compound: Arctic Silver 5 High-Density Polysynthetic Silver 3.5g Thermal Paste ($6.98 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Asus MAXIMUS VII HERO ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($208.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: Kingston Savage 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1866 Memory ($108.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($97.99 @ B&H)
Storage: Western Digital BLACK SERIES 3TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($151.10 @ Amazon)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 980 Ti 6GB Video Card
Case: Phanteks Enthoo Luxe ATX Full Tower Case ($149.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: EVGA 850W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($110.98 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: Asus BC-12B1ST/BLK/B/AS Blu-Ray Reader, DVD/CD Writer ($39.99 @ Newegg)
Monitor: Asus PB278Q 60Hz 27.0" Monitor ($424.99 @ NCIX US)
Other: Belkin Anti-Static Wristband ($4.78)
Other: Arctic Silver Arcticlean Thermal Cooling Material Remover and Surface Purifier ($6.89)
Total: $1711.65
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-06-07 08:22 EDT-0400

 

[Spanners]

Any specific reason you chose those industrial Noctua fans? They have great static pressure and CFM but they are pretty noisy. If you are running them at 12v they need 6.6w each and the fan hub in that case is rated for up to 30w total across all the fans (assuming it's this hub). I've never seen MB manufacturers give specific ratings for the fan headers but they are pulling about 0.55 amps each at full speed and I have no idea if that's advisable or not.

If you are trying to stay away from the maroon/beige Noctua colours maybe this would be a good choice for the radiator?

Gentle Typhoons have always been the best radiator fans around IMO but they don't really fit with the colour scheme and they don't do 140mm.

As far as LED fans go I'm not very clued in, maybe Corsair Air Series AF140 LED X2 for the front, Corsair Air Series AF140 for the rest of the 140mm slots and a Corsair Air Series AF120 for the HDD? I'm not saying that Corsair are the absolute best performance wise but the have the colours covered and you could keep it consistent.

I may have been very little help, sorry!

 

[OmarWazzan]

I was looking at the corsairs, and decided maybe I'd use them for the front. Most reviewers say at low speeds, the Noctua is totally silent. Though, the current thing is interesting, I'll do some double-checking.

Thanks for the help!

 

[Spanners]

I was looking at the corsairs, and decided maybe I'd use them for the front. Most reviewers say at low speeds, the Noctua is totally silent. Though, the current thing is interesting, I'll do some double-checking.

Thanks for the help!

Sure but if you're planning on running them at say 1500rpm anyway why pay more for the 3000rpm industrial version? (which I'd assume is designed to run full speed 24/7). I may be wrong though. They sell a 2000rpm version as well.

 

[OmarWazzan]

I just called up Asus. The maximum current is 1 Amp, so I'll be needing an additional pwm-hub with an external power supply. The one supplied uses SATA, so all is fine.

I want that 3000 RPM just in case. I saw the 2000 rpm versions of both the 120mm and 140mm. Only thing that might change my mind is if I can find anything stating if at the same RPM one is louder. The difference is $3/fan, not much.

 

[BonzaiDuck]

I really beg to differ with the observation that even the iPPC 3000 fans are "too noisy." If I have any noise tolerance, it would be for air-turbulence/white-noise. But I thermally control all my fans from PWM motherboard ports.

Spend $10 each on one (or even more) of these:

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_ss_i_1_15?url=search-alias%3Delectronics&field-keywords=swiftech+8w-pwm-spl+8+way+pwm+splitter&sprefix=Swiftech+8W-PWM%2Celectronics%2C202

This will enable you to control up to 8 fans from a single mobo PWM port; you can monitor one fan connected to the #1 plug on the device; and you would power the fans directly from your PSU.

This eliminates your worry about matching amperages with your motherboard fan-port limitations. It at least allows you to monitor one of your twin fans, and you could probably monitor the second simply by running the tach wire to an available motherboard fan port. And you get PWM "duty-cycle %" fan control from the motherboard according to temperature.

On the IPPCs. I'm using one as a heatpipe-tower pusher fan. After I did the initial overclock stress-testing, I set it to max out at <= 2,500 RPMs. You can also get the iPPC 2000 fans. But if you want to eliminate noise, you should focus your attention on the fan mounts and the radiator. A little tedium and sweat, you should then be able to attenuate any noise and actually increase airflow slightly through the radiator without even ramping up the fans to 3,000.

AFTER-NOTE: Just re-read the OP's OP and see that his case is equipped with those splitters. So . . . . there you are . . .

 

[BonzaiDuck]

Sure but if you're planning on running them at say 1500rpm anyway why pay more for the 3000rpm industrial version? (which I'd assume is designed to run full speed 24/7). I may be wrong though. They sell a 2000rpm version as well.

This is consistent with my observation about enthusiast fan-obsessions.

You might decide to pay more just for the option of running the fans over a certain range -- UNDER -- a certain set of CONDITIONS.

I also don't think folks have paid enough attention to thermal fan-control from the motherboard. Some motherboards -- with their proprietary software and BIOS features -- do it better than others, but -- it is now a prevailing feature. I find that it works just as reliably on a low-end motherboard like an ASUS Z77-A as it would for the higher tier. There are just fewer onboard fan ports for the former. And with something like a Swiftech splitter (also assuming the OP's case has the same sort of splitter), you only need two onboard PWM ports to run sixteen fans and/or pumps. Certainly, some computer-building choices would allow you to get by with one splitter, one onboard port, and eight fans/pumps!

I still cannot understand why folks continue to make an assumption that you'd want to run fans at constant speed, 24/7, oblivious to processor loading and thermal conditions.

 

[ClockHound]

Soon, EK will be releasing 140mm Vadars...and early reports look very good: http://thermalbench.com/2015/05/24/first-look-ek-vardar-f3-140er/

I've used a few of the 120mm Vadars and nearly as potent as GTs and they have PWM, so it's like using a quiet computer from the 21st century.

 

[B-Riz]

I have decided to use two of these for the radiator. I'm having issues because it needs a large amount of voltage to spin-up and most fan controllers don't have this, and I can't really find any documentation for my chosen motherboard. The case does come with a "PWM fan hub plus 2x y-splitters allow for 8 fan connections (11 fans max with additional y-splitters sold separately)".
The most important thing for the fans is that they be quiet, but still can pack a cooling punch if ever needed. Brand doesn't matter either, as long as it adheres to the color scheme (red and black). I don't mind any changes to the amount/size of the fans either. Positive pressure is preferred to keep the dust out.

Thanks!

(the fans supplied with the case are good quality, but I'd like to replace just for the colors.)


Fan setup will be:

2 Top Mounted 140mm Radiator Fans + radiator. [INTAKE]

2 Front Mounted 120/140mm Red LED fans. [INTAKE]

1 Rear Mounted 140mm fan. [OUTTAKE]

1 or 2 Bottom mounted 120/140mm fan(s). [OUTTAKE]

1 120mm HDD Fan [INTAKE]

___________________________________________________
The case, an Phanteks Enthoo Luxe, can mount the following:



FANS | 120mm | 140mm | 200mm
--------|-----------|-----------|---------------------
Front | x2 | x2 | x1 (included)
Top | x3 | x3 (1 included) | x1
Rear | x1 | x1 (included) | -
Bottom | x2 | x1 | -
HDD | x2 | - | -
_____________________________________________________

The Build:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i7-4790K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($279.99 @ Micro Center)
CPU Cooler: Corsair H110i GT 113.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($119.99 @ NCIX US)
Thermal Compound: Arctic Silver 5 High-Density Polysynthetic Silver 3.5g Thermal Paste ($6.98 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Asus MAXIMUS VII HERO ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($208.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: Kingston Savage 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1866 Memory ($108.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($97.99 @ B&H)
Storage: Western Digital BLACK SERIES 3TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($151.10 @ Amazon)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 980 Ti 6GB Video Card
Case: Phanteks Enthoo Luxe ATX Full Tower Case ($149.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: EVGA 850W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($110.98 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: Asus BC-12B1ST/BLK/B/AS Blu-Ray Reader, DVD/CD Writer ($39.99 @ Newegg)
Monitor: Asus PB278Q 60Hz 27.0" Monitor ($424.99 @ NCIX US)
Other: Belkin Anti-Static Wristband ($4.78)
Other: Arctic Silver Arcticlean Thermal Cooling Material Remover and Surface Purifier ($6.89)
Total: $1711.65
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-06-07 08:22 EDT-0400

You should get the mobo at MC too, (have done it a few times, is worth it).

For a fan controller, look at NZXT; I am using their Sentry 2 and am very happy with it.

 

[BonzaiDuck]

You should get the mobo at MC too, (have done it a few times, is worth it).

For a fan controller, look at NZXT; I am using their Sentry 2 and am very happy with it.

I think there is at least a pair of NZXT devices that work together, but there is a master device. I think you can control both 3-pin and PWM fans from it: it may have wiring features similar to the Swiftech . . . OK, I'll take a look . . . . wait-a-minute . .

This is what I thought I was looking for:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811997110

I'm puzzled because I'm sure there was a second, complementary device that extended the Grid+. All reference to "4-pin" here are for power connections, including Molex.

I'm fairly sure this hub could be used to control more than one 3-pin fan from the motherboard, but if you look at the reviews, one customer explains it as well as I could. I'm guessing you could control up to 3x 0.30A fans, but it would be wiser to limit your choice to 0.22A to 0.28A. Of course, you could use fans of a more "limp" amperage and airflow.

So there's some point of compromise with this device. You can control airflow over a wider range of RPM and CFM, but you'd want a single mobo fan-port to power the device.

I've made inquiries from folks more likely to know: for the 3-pin mobo fan ports, you might be able to draw more than 1A from any single fan port if you avoid using other ports or drawing more than the cumulative 1A-per-port rating usually -- traditionally -- specified in mobo manuals. So if there are three mobo fan-ports, you should be able to draw up to 3A off one port.

I never tried it. And I always limited any parallel fan-wiring to amperage below 1A.

I avoid at all costs the need to even try drawing more than an Amp from any 3-pin fan port; all my PWM fans are powered from the PSU, controlled through the CPU_FAN PWM port.

 

[coffeejunkee]

The most important thing for the fans is that they be quiet, but still can pack a cooling punch if ever needed.

Those Noctua 3000rpm 140mm fans can go down to only 800rpm. That will not be quiet.

I don't think the 3000rpm fans will let you overclock further either. There's a very high chance you'll be hitting top frequency anyway using those 2000rpm fans.

The great thing about all those efficiency gains in modern hardware is that you can have a really quiet but still powerful pc. No need to mess all that up by getting overspecced fans.

 

[BonzaiDuck]

Those Noctua 3000rpm 140mm fans can go down to only 800rpm. That will not be quiet.

I don't think the 3000rpm fans will let you overclock further either. There's a very high chance you'll be hitting top frequency anyway using those 2000rpm fans.

The great thing about all those efficiency gains in modern hardware is that you can have a really quiet but still powerful pc. No need to mess all that up by getting overspecced fans.

I really have to dispute what you're saying there.

First, we have to acknowledge that "quiet is in the ear of the beholder." But what I'd gleaned from other "readings:" ~ 22 dBA is essentially undetectable.

Second, there is "white noise" from air turbulence, and motor noise -- from badly designed or cheap fans. You won't have air-turbulence of any significance at idle speeds, even at 1,200 RPM -- let alone 800 RPM.

Third, whether water-cooling or with heatpipes, airflow is essential. So having some fans running between 600 to 1,600 RPM is likely to be an "idle-status-quo." Anything else represents a failure to understand the need for airflow in the cooling and preservation of electronic parts. If your parts remain quiet and cool at 300 RPM, that's good, too, but with good fans, you won't notice a difference in noise level between 300 and 1,000.

Fourth, YOU'RE RIGHT about over-clocking: increased CFM with lower temperatures won't make much difference -- unless -- UNLESS! -- one insists on pushing voltages beyond what would be safe and sane for a particular processor model. It will only improve temperatures, perhaps reduce electrical noise a little bit, maybe increase the margin of stability for a sliver of balls-to-the-walls overclocking. Otherwise, what you don't do with temperatures -- you may do with voltage.

I've seen many folks who recommend low-amperage, low-airflow fans -- to run at a fixed speed. I'd rather not have fixed-speed-anything, if I can control speed, RPM, dBA/noise and airflow thermally-- and dynamically.

IF -- and this is the caveat -- you want flexibility, dynamic/thermal fan-control, and additional CFM for extreme load conditions, it can make sense to use a beefier fan here or there in an overall cooling strategy. You may not USE the fan to its full RPM/CFM potential, but you have wiggle-room to make adjustments.

For good fans, quibbling over "how low can I make it run" and the difference in noise level between 300 RPM and 1,200 RPM -- that's sort of like picking fly-s*** out of pepper.

If it's a difference between an iPPC 3000 and iPPC 2000, I can see how the latter can fit into a cooling equation. Similarly, the difference between an AP-30/AP-29 and an AP-15. For my part, though, if I'm using an heatpipe tower cooler, I can squeeze out 5 to 10C more from it with a beefy AP-30 or iPPC-3000 exhaust fan ducted to the rear of the cooler.

For stress-testing, it WILL run at maybe 3/4 maximum RPMs. But once that's done, the processor will likely never reach that thermal wattage in normal use, and the fan may spend a lot of its time between 1,000 and 1,500. So I suppose, if we spend $30 on an iPPC fan, we're doing it in large part to attenuate temperatures as much as the cooler will allow. Once the system is clocked and stable, you could even replace the fan with something -- toward the "limp" end of the scale. But what have you done? You spent $10 to $15 more on a beefier fan which serves your purposes (at minimum, for configuring the system). Why bother replacing it?