Need help identifying grassy-type lawn weed… loves moist soil

NFS4

No Lifer
Oct 9, 1999
72,647
27
91
OK, this s**t is driving me crazy. It looks almost like a grass from its leaf structure, but it has a flowery part (or whatever you call the part with the seeds) at the top. My lawn is tall fescue, but in the areas of my lawn that hold a lot of moisture, this crap keeps growing.

The problem is that the flowery part is white so it looks horrible in the lawn. Since it appears to be a grassy type weed (or maybe even some kind of grass), none of the weed killer that I toss on it will kill it. I have easily killed other broadleaf weeds that I have found in my lawn.

What makes this so frustrating is that I killed off large portions of my lawn to reseed this past fall, including the areas where this stuff is now growing. But since the flowery part has so many friggin seeds that fall off at the lightest touch, it just blankets the soil and lives to see another day the following season.

How do I get rid of this s**t and what is it? Can I nuke it from orbit?



http://s1.postimg.org/gh2twwkj3/IMG_2192.jpg/[img]
[img]http://s1.postimg.org/gfsw3hipb/IMG_2193.jpg
 

Drako

Lifer
Jun 9, 2007
10,706
161
106
I thought it might be crabgrass, but the leaves are not fat enough.
 

edro

Lifer
Apr 5, 2002
24,328
68
91
Can I still put them on now to keep more from popping up?
It will still prevent seeds from germinating, but in your area, most weeds have probably already germinated.
Many need 3 nights above 60°F to germinate. (50° soil temp)
Areas near blacktop reach that temp quicker.
 

highland145

Lifer
Oct 12, 2009
43,527
5,942
136
It will still prevent seeds from germinating, but in your area, most weeds have probably already germinated.
Many need 3 nights above 60°F to germinate. (50° soil temp)
Areas near blacktop reach that temp quicker.
Won't those new seeds continue to germinate? I'd like to cut this crap off asap.
 

drnickriviera

Platinum Member
Jan 30, 2001
2,422
205
116
Can I still put them on now to keep more from popping up?

Not going to do much, you can apply it in a split application in early/late winter to stop it. If you have a place like John Deere Landscapes/Lesco that sells fertilizer, they can tell you the proper time to apply it.

The heat will start killing it off, so i usually admit defeat at this time then be ready for it in the winter
 

highland145

Lifer
Oct 12, 2009
43,527
5,942
136
Not going to do much, you can apply it in a split application in early/late winter to stop it. If you have a place like John Deere Landscapes/Lesco that sells fertilizer, they can tell you the proper time to apply it.

The heat will start killing it off, so i usually admit defeat at this time then be ready for it in the winter
Thanks. Gotta take a lawn care class. I don't know jack about it.
 

lupi

Lifer
Apr 8, 2001
32,539
260
126
I don't think weeds are my main problem, but I do have some other type of grass in about a quarter of my lawn. It turns a nice dead yellow during the winter and as temps are just now starting to hit 70, expect it to start turning green by end of the month.
 

garndawg

Member
Feb 29, 2008
88
1
71
Not going to do much, you can apply it in a split application in early/late winter to stop it. If you have a place like John Deere Landscapes/Lesco that sells fertilizer, they can tell you the proper time to apply it.

The heat will start killing it off, so i usually admit defeat at this time then be ready for it in the winter

Double footstomp on this. Bluegrass will die off when the soil temps get up. Meanwhile, mechanical removal is the best method for this time of year.

Preemergent (dimension) in late September and again in late Feburary will stop it. Plus, several other types of late winter germinations. Your local cooperative will sell a 50lb sack for $20. I use 100lbs 2x year on my 1/2 acre. Plus, get 2x 50lb sacks of 17-17-17 from the coop at the same time and turn off your TruGreen account. I spend about $250/year on fertilizer/preemergents and have zero problems with weeds and grass.

Grubs in June/July, on the other hand, are a whole different kind of headache...
 

NFS4

No Lifer
Oct 9, 1999
72,647
27
91
Double footstomp on this. Bluegrass will die off when the soil temps get up. Meanwhile, mechanical removal is the best method for this time of year.

Preemergent (dimension) in late September and again in late Feburary will stop it. Plus, several other types of late winter germinations. Your local cooperative will sell a 50lb sack for $20. I use 100lbs 2x year on my 1/2 acre. Plus, get 2x 50lb sacks of 17-17-17 from the coop at the same time and turn off your TruGreen account. I spend about $250/year on fertilizer/preemergents and have zero problems with weeds and grass.

Grubs in June/July, on the other hand, are a whole different kind of headache...

But how is that supposed to work when I reseed the lawn at the same time?

This annual bluegrass will die off in the summer here in NC, but I still have to reseed the area with tall fescue in the late September/early October. Wouldn't putting down a heavy dose of pre-emergent screw my grass seedlings?
 

garndawg

Member
Feb 29, 2008
88
1
71
But how is that supposed to work when I reseed the lawn at the same time?

This annual bluegrass will die off in the summer here in NC, but I still have to reseed the area with tall fescue in the late September/early October. Wouldn't putting down a heavy dose of pre-emergent screw my grass seedlings?

Yup, sure will. Didn't know that was in the requirements set, sorry...
 

NFS4

No Lifer
Oct 9, 1999
72,647
27
91
Yup, sure will. Didn't know that was in the requirements set, sorry...

Well, yeah, that's the vicious cycle that I'm in. My yard is tall fescue and it's just this 10 to 15% of the lawn that's been overrun by Annual Bluegrass.

I just can't seem to get the right timing to fully kill off the Annual Bluegrass, yet still have enough time to get the Tall Fescue to establish in the "containment areas" before the cycle just repeats itself again.
 

highland145

Lifer
Oct 12, 2009
43,527
5,942
136
I put roundup on the whole area last year and though that would have solved the problem

Never thought to use sod though, that s**t is expensive.
True. IIRC, we paid ~$400/pallet last year, 17 pallets. It sure looks good immediately. It's, apparently, going to cost me to keep it nice too. Might have been cheaper, in the long run, to go with artificial. No water, soil tests, fert, pre emerg, post emerg, mower/gas, weed eater, edger.......
 

lupi

Lifer
Apr 8, 2001
32,539
260
126
Not a lot of sode available here, have thought about it before but they seem to get one big batch in and when its go no more unless you do a special order which I'm sure is $$$$$$$.
 

garndawg

Member
Feb 29, 2008
88
1
71
Well, yeah, that's the vicious cycle that I'm in. My yard is tall fescue and it's just this 10 to 15% of the lawn that's been overrun by Annual Bluegrass.

I just can't seem to get the right timing to fully kill off the Annual Bluegrass, yet still have enough time to get the Tall Fescue to establish in the "containment areas" before the cycle just repeats itself again.

Might be bad medicine, but could you skip a winter of fescue and let it all go just dormant? Bluegrass could be controlled over a winter, with the before-and-after Dimension treatment.

Caveat regarding your neighbor: if they're overrun and not controlling, you'll never be rid of it without preemergent, as those seed pods spread _thousands_ of seeds every winter.
 
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