New Build (Pure Gaming)

sandeep3001

Junior Member
May 22, 2012
16
0
0
Hello,
Hi, I am planning to build a new gaming rig

I have a approximate configuration in mind.
Thought you could optimize it with your class of knowledge and experience

Board : ASUS MAXIMUM V GENE

GCARD : MSI GTX560-Ti HAWK 1gb

Processor : Intel i7 2600k

RAM :

CORSAIR Vengeance 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model CMZ8GX3M2A1600C9B

HDD:

Seagate Barracuda 6.0gb/s 64mb 7200rpm 2TB

SSD :
later this year for sure

MONITOR:

Benq XL2420T


Power Supply : Cooler Master Extreme 650W


Please suggest me some good case(s) for something around 100-110 $ (INR 5000- 6000)

A detailed budget for each component is as follows:

(Please note: The figures just indicate a range I am willing to spend for that component , coz its necessary to draw a line somewhere to keep up with the budget )

MBoard : 270$ (INR 15000)
GCard : 270$ (INR 15000)
Processor : 325$ (INR 18000)
RAM : 70$ (INR 4000)
HDD : 125$ (INR 7000)
Monitor : 330 $ (INR 18000)
Case : 100-110$ (INR 5000-6000)
Power Supply : 100$ (INR 5500)


Total = Close to 1550-1600$ range (INR 87000)

(OS is additional, not included in this )

I am residing in India

Please provide me with your suggestions with any modifications if for better in the same price range of these components
 

beginner99

Diamond Member
Jun 2, 2009
5,223
1,598
136
Get a cheaper Motherboard and invest the saved money in a better GPU.

And also get a 2500k (or 3570k) and invest saved money in a better GPU.
 

ShintaiDK

Lifer
Apr 22, 2012
20,378
145
106
Ye agree. Drop the 2600K, its just plain silly for gaming. Get a 3570K and a better GFX. Maybe a GTX 670 instead.

And I would consider a juch cheaper board. Those 270$ barely gives you anything of value over a 150$ board.

I would consider cheaper memory as well. Unless 2x4GB on average cost 70$ in your country.

And maybe a Dell U2412M for a monitor.
 

Denithor

Diamond Member
Apr 11, 2004
6,300
23
81
Suggest an SSD now rather than later. Install Win7 on it and be done, instead of having to redo your whole thing later. Plus SSD is NICE for gaming, load times are completely a thing of the past on SSD...
 

sm625

Diamond Member
May 6, 2011
8,172
137
106
Doesnt look like a pure gaming build. FXx1xx or an i3-2xxx and a GTX 680 would be a pure gaming build, and would do the job a hell of a lot better and cheaper too!

Judging by the prices you are paying for the monitor and gpu, I suspect you may not have the best selection to choose from. you might want to list more prices so we can break it down to performance per dollar.
 

dma0991

Platinum Member
Mar 17, 2011
2,723
1
0
A pure gaming build would have more affinity towards GPU performance and the Core i5 2500K or Core i5 3570K is the best CPU when it comes to gaming, price/performance wise. Spending on a ROG board isn't exactly what I would consider it being 'gaming' oriented and you could definitely spend less on that.

Intel Core i5 3570K $240
ASRock Z77 Extreme4 $135
Kingston HyperX 8GB $49
MSI GTX670 $400
Crucial M4 128GB $129
Corsair CX500 $60
Corsair Carbide 400R $100

This should be a baseline on what you really need. Alter it depending on the availability of the parts at your country.
 

emptyshell

Member
May 22, 2012
29
0
0
A pure gaming build would have more affinity towards GPU performance and the Core i5 2500K or Core i5 3570K is the best CPU when it comes to gaming, price/performance wise. Spending on a ROG board isn't exactly what I would consider it being 'gaming' oriented and you could definitely spend less on that.

Intel Core i5 3570K $240
ASRock Z77 Extreme4 $135
Kingston HyperX 8GB $49
MSI GTX670 $400
Crucial M4 128GB $129
Corsair CX500 $60
Corsair Carbide 400R $100

This should be a baseline on what you really need. Alter it depending on the availability of the parts at your country.

I was just about to suggest this but recommend the Gigabyte UD3H instead of the ASRock.... personal preference being the only reason.
 

ericloewe

Senior member
Dec 14, 2011
260
0
76
You will want to steer clear of Cooler Master PSUs, especially the lower end. I'd recommend the Corsair CX line (CX500 probably). If you feel like spending more on the power supply, the non-modular TX series is made by Seasonic.
 

tweakboy

Diamond Member
Jan 3, 2010
9,517
2
81
www.hammiestudios.com
Why is your mobo cussing @ me ? jk jk ...


What do you mean by PURE Gaming. I would go SLI with your current card or a 680 since your hardcore gamer and expensive mobo u have that option..gl
 

IntelEnthusiast

Intel Representative
Feb 10, 2011
582
2
0
For the PSU look at the SeaSonic M2II 620w. With the memory with this system I would advise that you make sure you pick some out that doesnt have the large heatspreaders of the normal Corsair Vengeance memory does since it would block you from putting a good 3rd party HSF (heatsink/fan)in the future. Also try to keep the memory running at 1.5v as this is what is supported on the processor. Heck the G. Skill Ares memory would work very well for you.
 

aaksheytalwar

Diamond Member
Feb 17, 2012
3,389
0
76
That cm psu is crap, doesn't give more than 300 watts real. Even a corsair cx400 is better than it. Get seasonic 550 or above
 

2is

Diamond Member
Apr 8, 2012
4,281
131
106
I'm with the consensus on this one. To stay roughly around the same budget you're better off dropping to an i5 and a better GPU.

An SSD while not gong to make in-game performance any better helps tremendously with load times. It's nice being one of the first players in BF3. Allows me to secure a vehicle and makes it that much easier to get that first cap, which is a nice momentum builder when your team is beating the other to the punch.

Previous gen (SATA II) SSD's go onsale for well under $1/GB pretty often now and even the non Intel or high end Corsair SATA3 brands get pretty close to that mark. One of my favorite aspects of SSD besides the speed is how much quieter my system is without a spnner in there.
 
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thelastjuju

Senior member
Nov 6, 2011
444
2
0
Ye agree. Drop the 2600K, its just plain silly for gaming. Get a 3570K and a better GFX. Maybe a GTX 670 instead.

And I would consider a juch cheaper board. Those 270$ barely gives you anything of value over a 150$ board.

I would consider cheaper memory as well. Unless 2x4GB on average cost 70$ in your country.

And maybe a Dell U2412M for a monitor.

Even a $150 board is twice as much as you need to spend on a motherboard. There are fully capable $60-75 motherboards out there, they just won't load you up on useless bullshit and frivolous NONSENSE like dual lan ports, twelve USB ports, or SLI.. seems like the only real reason to spend more than this range is to get more than 4x SATA ports or maybe to take advantage of the more OC friendly boards.

Where people fell for this idea that spending between 200 and 300 is just normal for the motherboard is just beyond me.
 

chari

Senior member
Oct 14, 2004
265
0
76
A pure gaming build would have more affinity towards GPU performance and the Core i5 2500K or Core i5 3570K is the best CPU when it comes to gaming, price/performance wise. Spending on a ROG board isn't exactly what I would consider it being 'gaming' oriented and you could definitely spend less on that.

Intel Core i5 3570K $240
ASRock Z77 Extreme4 $135
Kingston HyperX 8GB $49
MSI GTX670 $400
Crucial M4 128GB $129
Corsair CX500 $60
Corsair Carbide 400R $100

This should be a baseline on what you really need. Alter it depending on the availability of the parts at your country.

This is pretty much pure gold for gaming. Great suggestions to the OP. Hopefully he has access to all of this at decent prices.

Also, check out the BIOSTAR TZ77B motherboard. It's 79.99 after rebate right now on Newegg. I just ordered one for myself. A nice, no frills motherboard that allows for decent OC if needed.
 
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lehtv

Elite Member
Dec 8, 2010
11,900
74
91
Also, check out the BIOSTAR TZ77B motherboard. It's 79.99 after rebate right now on Newegg. I just ordered one for myself. A nice, no frills motherboard that allows for decent OC if needed.

Great find.

On dma0991's build I'd definitely change the PSU to a Seasonic built unit like Seasonic M12II/S12II 520W or XFX 550W.
 

sandeep3001

Junior Member
May 22, 2012
16
0
0


I have accumulated the following data for my rig with various options.

Please help me shortlist to a single selection in each component

Motherboard:
1. ASUS P8Z77-V
2. ASUS P8Z77-V PRO
GPU:

ASUS GTX 670 DirectCU II TOP
Model No: GTX670-DC2T-2GD5

Processor:

1. Intel i5 2500k
2. Intel i5 3570k
3. Intel i7 2600k

RAM:
1. G-SKILL Rip-Jaws Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model F3-12800CL9D-8GBRL
2. G-Skill Sniper DDR3 8 GB (2 x 4 GB) PC RAM (F3-12800CL9D-8GBSR)3. CORSAIR Vengeance 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model CMZ8GX3M2A1600C9B
4. CORSAIR Vengeance 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model CMZ8GX3M2A1600C8

Power Supply:
1. Corsair CMPSU-700GUK 700 Watts PSU
2. Corsair CMPSU-650TXV2UK 650 Watts PSU
3. Corsair CMPSU-750TXV2UK 750 Watts PSU
4. Seasonic 750W Power Supply (SS-750JS)
5. Seasonic 850W Power Supply (SS-850AT)


Cabinet:
1. Corsair 400R Mid Tower Cabinet
2. Cooler Master HAF 912 Advanced Mid Tower Cabinet
3. Cooler Master Enforcer Mid Tower Cabinet
4. Thermaltake Commander MS-III Mid Tower Cabinet
5. Thermaltake V4 Black Edition Mid Tower Cabinet



Hard-Disk:
1. Seagate Barracuda 2 TB HDD Internal Hard Drive (ST200DM001) 6gb/s 64mb cache 7200rpm
2. Western Digital Caviar 2TB (7200 RPM) SATA 6GB/s 64MB (WD2002FAEX)

Monitor:
1. Benq 24 inch LED - RL2450H
2. Benq 24 inch LED - GL2450HM
3. Asus 24 inch LED - ML248H
4. Viewsonic 23.6 inch LED - VX2453MH
5. Benq 24 inch LED - RL2450H
6. Dell 23 inch LED - S2330MX


Mouse:

1. SteelSeries KINZU Optical Mouse Pro Gaming Black
2. Logitech G300 Gaming Mouse
3. Logitech Optical Gaming Mouse G400
4. Razer Death Adder 3500 DPI Mouse (Black)
5. Logitech Gaming Mouse G500

Mouse Pad:

1. Razer Goliathus - Fragged Omega Mouse Pad – Speed
2. Razer Goliathus - Fragged Omega Mouse Pad Control

Keyboard:

1. Razer Arctosa Gaming Keyboard (Silver)
2. Logitech Gaming Keyboard G105
 

Rvenger

Elite Member <br> Super Moderator <br> Video Cards
Apr 6, 2004
6,283
5
81
Motherboard:
1. ASUS P8Z77-V
GPU:

ASUS GTX 670 DirectCU II TOP
Model No: GTX670-DC2T-2GD5

Processor:

2. Intel i5 3570k

RAM:
1. G-SKILL Rip-Jaws Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model F3-12800CL9D-8GBRL

Power Supply:
2. Corsair CMPSU-650TXV2UK 650 Watts PSU


Cabinet:
1. Corsair 400R Mid Tower Cabinet


Hard-Disk:
2. Western Digital Caviar 2TB (7200 RPM) SATA 6GB/s 64MB (WD2002FAEX)

Monitor:
4. Viewsonic 23.6 inch LED - VX2453MH


Mouse:

5. Logitech Gaming Mouse G500

Mouse Pad:

2. Razer Goliathus - Fragged Omega Mouse Pad Control

Keyboard:

2. Logitech Gaming Keyboard G105
 

cmdrdredd

Lifer
Dec 12, 2001
27,052
357
126
Motherboard:

2. ASUS P8Z77-V
I say get the Pro if you need more SATA and USB. Otherwise...not necessary.

GPU:
ASUS GTX 670 DirectCU II TOP
Model No: GTX670-DC2T-2GD5

Either GPU will do. The GTX 670 is an awesome card. Assuming you can find stock.

Processor:
2. Intel i5 3570k


RAM:
None of your memory choices. I'd get the Samsung 30nm 4GB sticks. They are available individually for $24 each. They're lower voltage at 1.35v, low profile so they fit under any CPU cooler you might get, and overclock well. Don't fall for the fancy naming schemes and huge heatspreaders with crazy colors. Just get two of these http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820147094
These are rated at DDR3-1600 1.35v 11-11-11-28 and I can run them at 1.5v DDR3-2000 11-11-11-28 or DDR3-1800 1.5v 10-10-10-10-24. I could probably tweak timings a little bit more on my BIOS but I'm too lazy to bother. The difference between DDR3-1600 and DDR3-2000 is very small.

Power Supply:
3. Corsair CMPSU-750TXV2UK 750 Watts PSU
4. Seasonic 750W Power Supply (SS-750JS)

Either of these Power Supplies will do nicely. I have owned a Corsair TX-750 myself and can attest to the quality. Buy whichever is the better deal.


Cabinet:
1. Corsair 400R Mid Tower Cabinet
2. Cooler Master HAF 912 Advanced Mid Tower Cabinet
3. Cooler Master Enforcer Mid Tower Cabinet
4. Thermaltake Commander MS-III Mid Tower Cabinet
5. Thermaltake V4 Black Edition Mid Tower Cabinet

Case is highly based on preference. I could not tell you what to get. They're all good, buy what fits your size and expansion requirements.

Hard-Disk:
2. Western Digital Caviar 2TB (7200 RPM) SATA 6GB/s 64MB (WD2002FAEX)

Can't swing an SSD for startup drive? Crucial M4 128GB is $121 at amazon right now. I would personally avoid seagate HDDs if it were me. I have had many issues with them.

Monitor:
3. Asus 24 inch LED - ML248H
4. Viewsonic 23.6 inch LED - VX2453MH

I've seen both of these monitors and both are good.


Mouse:
3. Logitech Optical Gaming Mouse G400

Razer and steelseries mice are WAY overpriced and all the fancy memory and profile stuff is buggy as heck. I've had razer mice and the drivers always crashed and the mice froze a lot due to bad firmware. I have the G400 and I did compare it to the G500. I found the G400 to have a better feel and lighter weight which I preferred and I didn't have a chance to try out the weight customization thing on the G500. I couldn't imagine a heavier mouse being better I don't buy into the fact that laser is more accurate, i've heard it go both ways. Laser mice suffer from negative acceleration as well which hasn't been 100% totally fixed yet. Negative acceleration can be explained like this. Imagine there's a point A and a point B on your mousepad. If you move your mouse slowly from A to B, in the game you will turn 180 degrees. However, if you make the same movement from A to B, only faster, you will only turn 90 degrees in the game. Anyone who says you need 2000dpi for gaming is crazy lol. Many of the best players run lower sensitivity and DPI with a larger mouse pad because it's more accurate than twitch movements.

Overall buying a mouse is a lot of preference. Go to a local store and feel them if you can. See what you like in your hand. Not all mice are made for the same type of gamer. Some are better with a palm grip, some with a claw grip etc. So go put your hand on the mouse and move it around just as if you were at your desk. How does each feel to you? You'll probably like one more than the other and comfort is a big part of gaming. The proper mouse will keep your wrist relaxed and prevent cramping. Just like the right chair is good for your back.

Mouse Pad:
Razer mousepads are overpriced. I like Hybrid pads. They are a soft cloth pad with plastic impregnated into it so it has a smooth feel when you move the mouse. Best of both worlds Glide + Control. I use an Xtrac Hybrid. Measures 10" x 16" x 3/16". Only $30 too. http://www.xtracpads.com/products.php?prod_id=27&section=1

Keyboard:
After using mechanical keyboards I am not a fan of rubber membrane keyboards at all. I will not offer a recommendation for them because I feel the performance difference and lifespan difference between the two is too great. Mechanical keyboards are expensive but they will likely outlast any other component you purchase. You can also customize the feel by selecting the switch type you want. For pure gaming I'd get a Leopold linear force keyboard with cherry MX black switches. If you want a good all around keyboard the tactile touch keyboard with cherry MX brown switches is a good pick too. Elitekeyboards.com sells them but they are $90 to $110. Worth it IMO though.

Other than that, logitech has good support so if you are only willing to spend around $50 go logitech. I am not a razer fan.

Many of the peripherals are preference based. As I said, mice and keyboards. They can have different weights, feels, the keys of a keyboard can be heavier or lighter or have a tactile bump to let you know when you activated it. Cases are a lot of asthetics as well as your required expansion bays. Just remember, if you are going to overclock be sure to get a good cooling system to go with it all. The stock HSF won't do you much good if you push it.
 
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