New gaming rig

[santoshn]

Hi All,

I am looking to build my first custom build.

1. What YOUR PC will be used for. That means what types of tasks you'll be performing.
Almost always gaming.

2. What YOUR budget is. A price range is acceptable as long as it's not more than a 20% spread
1000 USD - 1200 USD

3. What country YOU will be buying YOUR parts from.
USA. Online and Microcentre included.

4. IF YOU have a brand preference. That means, are you an Intel-Fanboy, AMD-Fanboy, ATI-Fanboy, nVidia-Fanboy, Seagate-Fanboy, WD-Fanboy, etc.
Intel/Nvidia

5. If YOU intend on using any of YOUR current parts, and if so, what those parts are.
This is my first build. Have OS and a Dell U2311H monitor

7. IF YOU plan on overclocking or run the system at default speeds.
Yes CPU. The usual (~4.2G). GPU unlikely.

8. What resolution will you be using?
1920X1200

9. WHEN do you plan to build it?
End of November.

The Build from reading this forum.
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/job1

FYI:
CPU: Intel Core i5-3570K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($189.99 @ Microcenter)
CPU Cooler: Corsair H80 92.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($99.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: ASRock Z77 Extreme4 ATX LGA1155 Motherboard ($134.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: Samsung 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($44.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 830 Series 256GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($192.24 @ Amazon)
Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 680 2GB Video Card ($519.99 @ NCIX US)
Case: Fractal Design Define R4 (Titanium Grey) ATX Mid Tower Case ($109.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: SeaSonic X Series 850W 80 PLUS Gold Certified ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply ($179.99 @ Newegg)

Can someone tell me:
1. If that monster of a card will fit with all those components in a R4.
2. What fans do I need for the case?
3. Can I get better cooling with air cooling instead of H80 AIO? If so which one? I have seen people recommend 212 or Phanteks.
4. Am I spending too much for a build that I hope will last for 3-4 years.

Any suggestions not limited to above questions are welcome. Please let me know if I can make this a better build.

Thanks in advance,
S

 

[badboyeee]

Get the i5-3570k + asrock z77 extreme4 combo from Microcenter, you'll get $50 off for that bundle.

 

[Termie]

You have a number of high quality parts in this build. The only things I would question are the video card, the psu, and the cooler. The video card is fine, but it's a triple slot cooler, which I think is overkill. Also, there are reference 680 models around $480. Spending over $500 on a 680 when both the 7970 and 670 perform close to it for $400 or less is hard to recommend.

The psu is great but way more wattage then you need. Save $50 and go with a 650 or 750 watt model.

The cooler honestly isn't that great for the price. For your target overclock, even a $30 air cooler is fine. The 212 Evo is a great buy. If you want to spend more, go for a high end air cooler in the $60-70 range.

 

[santoshn]

You have a number of high quality parts in this build. The only things I would question are the video card, the psu, and the cooler. The video card is fine, but it's a triple slot cooler, which I think is overkill. Also, there are reference 680 models around $480. Spending over $500 on a 680 when both the 7970 and 670 perform close to it for $400 or less is hard to recommend.

The psu is great but way more wattage then you need. Save $50 and go with a 650 or 750 watt model.

The cooler honestly isn't that great for the price. For your target overclock, even a $30 air cooler is fine. The 212 Evo is a great buy. If you want to spend more, go for a high end air cooler in the $60-70 range.

Thanks for the advice. I will ditch the H80 for a better air cooler. Phantek or Zalman might be an overkill I suppose.

I thought getting the extra 10% OC on the GPU will future proof it longer than a reference card but now it does not seem convincing. I will look for a reference 680. Any suggestions on which brands are better (EVGA/ASUS) if I ever decide to go the way of OC the GPU?

Also do I need additional fans for the case or will the fans that come with the case suffice?

Thanks,
S

 

[Zap]

4.2GHz on an Ivy Bridge should be doable without extra voltage. Thus, any cheap cooler will suffice.

Fans that come with case should be fine.

Are you EVER going to go SLI? Note that if you aren't doing SLI right now, when ready to upgrade in a couple of years you are usually better off buying a single faster card instead of hunting down a pristine used card to match your old one. If not doing SLI, consider two things.
1) Go lower on the PSU. For instance a reasonable quality 450W is enough for an overclocked Intel Ivy Bridge with an overclocked GTX 680.
2) Consider going with a smaller case. Taken to the extreme, you can build your proposed rig in a Silverstone SG05 as long as you go with a small enough CPU cooler and a reference GTX 680. A big ATX case with one graphics card and one SSD will be nothing but a big box with a lot of empty space in it. If you can't handle such a small system as the SG05, consider a Fractal Design Define Mini with a mATX motherboard.

To answer your specific three questions...
1) Yes, the big case will still be quite empty inside.
2) The case comes with fans. Unless they are faulty, they should spin and move air. What else do you need your fan to do?
3) You might be spending too much. With the PSU and CPU cooler, for sure. With the graphics card, maybe. A GTX 670 on a $350 hot deal will be very close in performance to the card you choose. Will that performance difference mean that a new game 4 years from now will be playable on the more expensive card while not playable on the cheaper card? Probably not.

You can probably save around $350 by going lower wattage PSU, GTX 670, cheaper CPU cooler and have "essentially" the same performance. Put that $350 in a bank CD and use it in 2 years to buy a new graphics card. You can save even more money with other choices too, such as a cheaper case (Fractal Design Core 1000 is $40 and mATX), cheaper motherboard (4.2GHz should be a cakewalk for a $100 motherboard).

So you can essentially shave $450 off your build without much difference in quality, and with the biggest performance difference being between a GTX 670 and GTX 680. Want to see what the difference would be?
GTX 670 vs GTX 680

Use that $450 to buy a $350 graphics card in 2 years that will totally spank a GTX 680 of today, and send me the rest as a PayPal gift. You're welcome. :whiste:

Oh yeah, last thing to note is that "end of November" is almost 2 months from now, and things can change. Thus, while you will want to be saving your money and have an overview of what you want, don't be surprised if you end up changing your build. For instance, the Samsung 840 and 840 Pro SSDs will be coming out soon. Heck, other SSDs may come out as well, or there may be sales that change your choices (typically any Marvell based SSD is a good choice). Also, your particular choices may go out of stock or become discontinued when you are ready to buy.

 

[Termie]

Thanks for the advice. I will ditch the H80 for a better air cooler. Phantek or Zalman might be an overkill I suppose.

I thought getting the extra 10% OC on the GPU will future proof it longer than a reference card but now it does not seem convincing. I will look for a reference 680. Any suggestions on which brands are better (EVGA/ASUS) if I ever decide to go the way of OC the GPU?

Also do I need additional fans for the case or will the fans that come with the case suffice?

Thanks,
S

I think the stock fans are good enough to start with. You'll have a front 140mm fan and a rear 140mm fan. Eventually you can add top fans if you wish.

As for which GTX680 to go for, well, I'm sure you could get many differing opinions on that. This Gigabyte model looks like a pretty good deal: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16814125442

Might want to check out the video card forum for more advice on that. If you want a reference model, which will push more air out of the case, this EVGA superclocked model looks nice: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16814130771

 

[santoshn]

4.2GHz on an Ivy Bridge should be doable without extra voltage. Thus, any cheap cooler will suffice.

Fans that come with case should be fine.

Are you EVER going to go SLI? Note that if you aren't doing SLI right now, when ready to upgrade in a couple of years you are usually better off buying a single faster card instead of hunting down a pristine used card to match your old one. If not doing SLI, consider two things.
1) Go lower on the PSU. For instance a reasonable quality 450W is enough for an overclocked Intel Ivy Bridge with an overclocked GTX 680.
2) Consider going with a smaller case. Taken to the extreme, you can build your proposed rig in a Silverstone SG05 as long as you go with a small enough CPU cooler and a reference GTX 680. A big ATX case with one graphics card and one SSD will be nothing but a big box with a lot of empty space in it. If you can't handle such a small system as the SG05, consider a Fractal Design Define Mini with a mATX motherboard.

To answer your specific three questions...
1) Yes, the big case will still be quite empty inside.
2) The case comes with fans. Unless they are faulty, they should spin and move air. What else do you need your fan to do?
3) You might be spending too much. With the PSU and CPU cooler, for sure. With the graphics card, maybe. A GTX 670 on a $350 hot deal will be very close in performance to the card you choose. Will that performance difference mean that a new game 4 years from now will be playable on the more expensive card while not playable on the cheaper card? Probably not.

You can probably save around $350 by going lower wattage PSU, GTX 670, cheaper CPU cooler and have "essentially" the same performance. Put that $350 in a bank CD and use it in 2 years to buy a new graphics card. You can save even more money with other choices too, such as a cheaper case (Fractal Design Core 1000 is $40 and mATX), cheaper motherboard (4.2GHz should be a cakewalk for a $100 motherboard).

So you can essentially shave $450 off your build without much difference in quality, and with the biggest performance difference being between a GTX 670 and GTX 680. Want to see what the difference would be?
GTX 670 vs GTX 680

Use that $450 to buy a $350 graphics card in 2 years that will totally spank a GTX 680 of today, and send me the rest as a PayPal gift. You're welcome. :whiste:

Oh yeah, last thing to note is that "end of November" is almost 2 months from now, and things can change. Thus, while you will want to be saving your money and have an overview of what you want, don't be surprised if you end up changing your build. For instance, the Samsung 840 and 840 Pro SSDs will be coming out soon. Heck, other SSDs may come out as well, or there may be sales that change your choices (typically any Marvell based SSD is a good choice). Also, your particular choices may go out of stock or become discontinued when you are ready to buy.

Thanks a lot Zap. That was quite informational. I think you have a very valid argument. A 10% lower performace card wont make my GPU run for 2 extra years. I will give 670 a thought. It does not look bad at all (compared to 680). As for the case, I was going to go the way of liquid cooling (in the future) but as you mentioned my current setup does not merit Liquid Cooling.

Is this the right forum to discuss when to make a plunge for the parts, specially with Black Friday coming up very soon. Anyone with (past) experience on whether or not it is worth waiting.

@Termie: Thanks for the advice on case fans and GPU models.

Thanks All,
S

 

[santoshn]

Here is the final build that I plan on getting.
CPU: Intel Core i5-3570K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($189.99 @ Microcenter)
CPU Cooler: Zalman CNPS12X Ball Bearing CPU Cooler ($69.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: ASRock Z77 Extreme4 ATX LGA1155 Motherboard ($122.62 @ Newegg)
Memory: Samsung 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($44.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 830 Series 256GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($193.74 @ Amazon)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 670 2GB Video Card ($349.99 @ NCIX US)
Case: Fractal Design Define R4 (Titanium Grey) ATX Mid Tower Case ($109.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: SeaSonic X Series 560W 80 PLUS Gold Certified ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply ($135.71 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: Lite-On iHAS124-04 DVD/CD Writer ($15.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Total: $1233.01

I think I will stick with the case. I like the looks of it. I will order these after a couple of weeks. Any changes that I can make?

 

[Termie]

Here is the final build that I plan on getting.
CPU: Intel Core i5-3570K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($189.99 @ Microcenter)
CPU Cooler: Zalman CNPS12X Ball Bearing CPU Cooler ($69.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: ASRock Z77 Extreme4 ATX LGA1155 Motherboard ($122.62 @ Newegg)
Memory: Samsung 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($44.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 830 Series 256GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($193.74 @ Amazon)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 670 2GB Video Card ($349.99 @ NCIX US)
Case: Fractal Design Define R4 (Titanium Grey) ATX Mid Tower Case ($109.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: SeaSonic X Series 560W 80 PLUS Gold Certified ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply ($135.71 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: Lite-On iHAS124-04 DVD/CD Writer ($15.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Total: $1233.01

I think I will stick with the case. I like the looks of it. I will order these after a couple of weeks. Any changes that I can make?

A couple of thoughts before you place your order for this - everything is great, but you may be overpaying.

(1) The AsRock Extreme4 is $85 if purchased with a 3570k at MicroCenter. You have indicated that you are planning on buying the 3570k at MicroCenter but the Extreme4 at Newegg. If you're actually going in person to MicroCenter, don't do this!!! See here for details: http://viewer.zmags.com/publication/0c260263#/0c260263/28

(2) The Seasonic 560w PSU is a fine unit, but it's not priced well. The 750w model is currently on sale for $127.50 with free shipping: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817151087

Even if you decide you don't want that much wattage (and in fact it does have a minor negative impact on idle power draw), at least go for the 650w model for $130 shipped over the more expensive 560w model: http://www.xbitlabs.com/articles/coolers/display/super-cooler-lga-2011_7.html

Other than that, fantastic build. Every item you're getting is high-quality and has been vetted by many users here. Good luck!

By the way, I didn't know too much about the Zalman cooler, but I thought I'd pass along a very comprehensive comparison review from XbitLabs, in case you hadn't seen it: http://www.xbitlabs.com/articles/coolers/display/super-cooler-lga-2011_7.html. Looks like a good choice!

 

[lehtv]

CPU Good ($190)
Cooler NCIX has Noctua C12P SE14 on sale for $40
Mobo Don't need SLI compatibility. Z77 Pro4 $50 at microcenter combined with 3570K
RAM G.Skill Ares $35 AP is a better deal
Storage Good ($194)
GPU MSI 670 PE/OC $380 AR is faster, cooler and quieter. The quiet case below doesn't really benefit you unless all your components are quiet.
Case Good. ($110)
PSU Seasonic S12II 520W $60 AP will be quiet enough.
DVD Samsung $17

= $1076 AR AP

After a couple weeks though, many of the promos (ram, cooler, psu etc) will not be valid anymore.

 

[Termie]

CPU Good ($190)
Cooler NCIX has Noctua C12P SE14 on sale for $40
Mobo Don't need SLI compatibility. Z77 Pro4 $50 at microcenter combined with 3570K
RAM G.Skill Ares $35 AP is a better deal
Storage Good ($194)
GPU MSI 670 PE/OC $380 AR is faster, cooler and quieter. The quiet case below doesn't really benefit you unless all your components are quiet.
Case Good. ($110)
PSU Seasonic S12II 520W $60 AP will be quiet enough.
DVD Samsung $17

= $1076 AR AP

After a couple weeks though, many of the promos (ram, cooler, psu etc) will not be valid anymore.

These aren't bad recommendations, but you're generally suggesting lower performing parts (other than the more expensive MSI GTX670). If a builder has a budget for higher-end parts, why are you trying to talk him into spending less? The cooler will not be as effective, the PSU is less efficient and louder, the memory doesn't have the same OC headroom, and the motherboard loses the SLI option as well as other features. How can you decide whether he needs SLI compatibility long before he would even be presented with the need for it? I know you don't like dual-card solutions, but plenty of people have had a positive experience with them, myself included. In fact, one of the reasons I tried crossfire last year was to see for myself what everyone was talking about - up until then, I criticized dual-card solutions just like you do, but I found crossfire to be excellent in almost every way, other than power use.

The OP has a stated budget of $1600-1800. Why do we bother asking for someone's budget if we're always going to suggest a ~$1,000 build?

 

[lehtv]

The OP has a stated budget of $1600-1800. Why do we bother asking for someone's budget if we're always going to suggest a ~$1,000 build?

The OP posted a $1230 build, not a $1600-1800 build.

If there's need to spend more, spend it on an i7. The parts I recommended do the job sufficiently well that that user will not notice any difference to the parts he picked. The CPu cooler is sufficient for the 4.2GHz OC he's aiming at, and it's quieter. The memory's OC potential is completely irrelevant, there's no noticeable difference between 1600 and 2133 unless benchmarking. The Samsung RAM makes sense only if it costs the same as other 1600 kits. The reason I dropped the dual GPU compatible motherboard was the OP himself didn't seem interested in it. He picked a 560W PSU and a silent case, neither are SLI/Crossfire friendly. FWIW I have nothing against crossfire / SLI in principle, I just don't think it makes sense at 1080p

You're correct about the PSU though. Check out the 80+gold semi-modular Rosewill Capstone 550-M $70 AP

 

[riversend]

Did I miss it, or do you already have a copy of Win7? Also, I did not see any mention that you are reusing anything, thus you still need a monitor and other peripherals like keyboard, mouse and speakers?

If you still need the monitor, then I would look at a ~$1000-1200 on the in case build and get a quality 24-27" monitor.

One of the comments the OP mentioned is that for ~$1700 he wants to have a build that will last 3-4 years (with this statement I assume that means with no degradation in gaming performance). This will be hard to do without, as previously noted, upgrading the GPU in that time span. Unless he is planning on dumping another ~300-400 into the system in 2-2.5 yrs then the $1000 is valid. If he wants to spend the extra on parts inside the case to get a bump in performance or squeeze out some extra time, then I think he has lots of good recommendations here to balance.

 

[mfenn]

The OP has a stated budget of $1600-1800. Why do we bother asking for someone's budget if we're always going to suggest a ~$1,000 build?

2. What YOUR budget is. A price range is acceptable as long as it's not more than a 20% spread
1000 USD - 1200 USD

I thought the OP is looking around the $1000-1200 range?

Anyway, to answer your question directly, there is a difference between spending more money for more observable performance (which is fine if you have the budget) and spending more money for no perceivable benefit. I, and many others on this forum, are focused much more on results that we are on the bragging rights associated with top-end parts.

 

[santoshn]

Did I miss it, or do you already have a copy of Win7? Also, I did not see any mention that you are reusing anything, thus you still need a monitor and other peripherals like keyboard, mouse and speakers?

If you still need the monitor, then I would look at a ~$1000-1200 on the in case build and get a quality 24-27" monitor.

One of the comments the OP mentioned is that for ~$1700 he wants to have a build that will last 3-4 years (with this statement I assume that means with no degradation in gaming performance). This will be hard to do without, as previously noted, upgrading the GPU in that time span. Unless he is planning on dumping another ~300-400 into the system in 2-2.5 yrs then the $1000 is valid. If he wants to spend the extra on parts inside the case to get a bump in performance or squeeze out some extra time, then I think he has lots of good recommendations here to balance.

I have a Dell U2311H and might sell it and get a 2412M. But that is not immediately. I have Win7 OS currently and will not need one.

These aren't bad recommendations, but you're generally suggesting lower performing parts (other than the more expensive MSI GTX670). If a builder has a budget for higher-end parts, why are you trying to talk him into spending less? The cooler will not be as effective, the PSU is less efficient and louder, the memory doesn't have the same OC headroom, and the motherboard loses the SLI option as well as other features. How can you decide whether he needs SLI compatibility long before he would even be presented with the need for it? I know you don't like dual-card solutions, but plenty of people have had a positive experience with them, myself included. In fact, one of the reasons I tried crossfire last year was to see for myself what everyone was talking about - up until then, I criticized dual-card solutions just like you do, but I found crossfire to be excellent in almost every way, other than power use.

The OP has a stated budget of $1600-1800. Why do we bother asking for someone's budget if we're always going to suggest a ~$1,000 build?

Thanks for the tip on microcenter combo deal. I was not aware of that as it does not show up on their website.
I was planning to build it upto 1800 USD but then after the post from Zap, I decided that it makes more sense in not building one for 4 years, save a bit of money and get replacement parts in 2 years time. I am sorry for the confusions and not updating my original post. I have revised my build criteria to reflect this.

CPU Good ($190)
Cooler NCIX has Noctua C12P SE14 on sale for $40
Mobo Don't need SLI compatibility. Z77 Pro4 $50 at microcenter combined with 3570K
RAM G.Skill Ares $35 AP is a better deal
Storage Good ($194)
GPU MSI 670 PE/OC $380 AR is faster, cooler and quieter. The quiet case below doesn't really benefit you unless all your components are quiet.
Case Good. ($110)
PSU Seasonic S12II 520W $60 AP will be quiet enough.
DVD Samsung $17

= $1076 AR AP

After a couple weeks though, many of the promos (ram, cooler, psu etc) will not be valid anymore.

Thanks lehtv for some excellent alternatives. Specially the PSU. As I mentioned previously, I think its better to dip frequently (every 18-24 months) rather than build a very expensive system upfront. As for the RAM, as this is my first build, I thought of getting some low profile RAMs and the samsung RAM's have uber-excellent reviews. Never got my hands dirty before so using low profile might make for an easier start.

As for the MSI card, This suggests the OC version makes more noise...
http://www.hardwarecanucks.com/foru...6-msi-gtx-670-power-edition-oc-review-19.html

Did I understand your statement incorrectly?

Thanks
S

 

[mfenn]

As I mentioned previously, I think its better to dip frequently (every 18-24 months) rather than build a very expensive system upfront.

I agree, building midrange and upgrading (relatively) often is a great way to stay ahead of the game on price/performance.

As for the RAM, as this is my first build, I thought of getting some low profile RAMs and the samsung RAM's have uber-excellent reviews. Never got my hands dirty before so using low profile might make for an easier start.

There are three heights of RAM:

1. Low-profile: These barely stick above the DIMM retention clips and can sometimes be harder to engage, but they do ensure that there are no clearance issue. The Samsung RAM you've picked out is an example of this type.
2. Standard-profile: These are about twice the higher of a low-profile DIMM and will have about 1/2 of their height above the DIMM clips. There are typically no clearance issues with standard-profile DIMMs. The Ares RAM is an example of this type. Note that these are sometimes marketed as "low profile" by the makers of RAM with ridiculously tall heatspreaders, don't be fooled.
3. Tall: These have really tall heatspreaders that are ostensibly for better cooling but really just exist to look flashy. Will likely block large heasinks. Corsair Vengeance is an example of this type.

 

[Zap]

You're correct about the PSU though. Check out the 80+gold semi-modular Rosewill Capstone 550-M $70 AP

I'm Zap, and I approve of this message. :thumbsup:

OEM is Super Flower. Think Seasonic quality, but emphasis on higher efficiency and 140mm fans.

Also, COOLER MASTER Hyper 212 Plus for $20 after $10 rebate. Isn't the best or most quiet, but arguably one of the best bang for the cooling buck. If BIOS is set for the quietest fan profile, should be reasonably quiet.

Regarding SLI, I do think that the OP should put some serious thought into it for these reasons.

1) NOT buying SLI parts (motherboard support, case with capable cooling, higher wattage PSU) can save a lot of money, but will be super costly if you change your mind in the future.

2) Chances are that you won't change your mind in the future. Out of all my LAN party friends, I'd have to say that at least 80% of them who paid extra to go the "SLI Ready" route NEVER went SLI. Ever.

3) 2-3 years from now, where are you going to get a matching GTX 670 for brand new? You will have to find a used one and hope the previous owner didn't overheat it or overclock it severely. Better to just spend another $350 on whatever new card is at that price point in 2 years. To give an example, look at the GTX 470 versus GTX 670. In roughly two years, performance doubled, while temperatures and power consumption went DOWN.

4) 560W PSU is not quite enough for SLI, and the case might be marginal for cooling depending on the cards used. So, the motherboard would be the only part in the system that is truly "SLI Ready." So, either go full boat and get a case with better cooling (probably noisier too) and a higher wattage PSU now, and understand that you have an 80% chance of just having wasted your money, or cut your losses now and save even more money with a lower wattage PSU and cheaper motherboard (keeping the case for the low noise).

 

[Termie]

I thought the OP is looking around the $1000-1200 range?

Anyway, to answer your question directly, there is a difference between spending more money for more observable performance (which is fine if you have the budget) and spending more money for no perceivable benefit. I, and many others on this forum, are focused much more on results that we are on the bragging rights associated with top-end parts.

He changed his budget after I posted.

I hope you're not suggesting that my recommendations of an AsRock extreme4, Samsung ram, and a Seasonic psu were based on bragging rights. They are proven reliable and fairly priced. No, they are not the cheapest possible options, but in the long run cheapest isn't always best.

Anyway, the OP has the information he needs now, so no more needs to be said.

 

[santoshn]

I'm Zap, and I approve of this message. :thumbsup:

OEM is Super Flower. Think Seasonic quality, but emphasis on higher efficiency and 140mm fans.

Also, COOLER MASTER Hyper 212 Plus for $20 after $10 rebate. Isn't the best or most quiet, but arguably one of the best bang for the cooling buck. If BIOS is set for the quietest fan profile, should be reasonably quiet.

Regarding SLI, I do think that the OP should put some serious thought into it for these reasons.

1) NOT buying SLI parts (motherboard support, case with capable cooling, higher wattage PSU) can save a lot of money, but will be super costly if you change your mind in the future.

2) Chances are that you won't change your mind in the future. Out of all my LAN party friends, I'd have to say that at least 80% of them who paid extra to go the "SLI Ready" route NEVER went SLI. Ever.

3) 2-3 years from now, where are you going to get a matching GTX 670 for brand new? You will have to find a used one and hope the previous owner didn't overheat it or overclock it severely. Better to just spend another $350 on whatever new card is at that price point in 2 years. To give an example, look at the GTX 470 versus GTX 670. In roughly two years, performance doubled, while temperatures and power consumption went DOWN.

4) 560W PSU is not quite enough for SLI, and the case might be marginal for cooling depending on the cards used. So, the motherboard would be the only part in the system that is truly "SLI Ready." So, either go full boat and get a case with better cooling (probably noisier too) and a higher wattage PSU now, and understand that you have an 80% chance of just having wasted your money, or cut your losses now and save even more money with a lower wattage PSU and cheaper motherboard (keeping the case for the low noise).

I am not going the way of SLI. So I have switched to a non-SLI board. AsRock Pro4. I will be getting this along with 3570K at Microcenter in a couple of days. I have pretty much integrated all the advice here with a bit of my taste (The case R4 being more than what I may need) and here is the almost final build:
CPU: Intel Core i5-3570K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($189.99 @ Microcenter)
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-C12P SE14 65.0 CFM CPU Cooler ($45 @ NCIX)
Motherboard: ASRock Z77 Pro4 ATX LGA1155 Motherboard ($59.99 @ Microcenter)
Memory: Samsung 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($44.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 830 Series 256GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($182.96 @ Amazon)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 670 2GB Video Card ($349.99 @ NCIX US)
Case: Fractal Design Define R4 (Titanium Grey) ATX Mid Tower Case ($109.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: Rosewill Capstone 550W 80 PLUS Gold Certified ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply ($69.99 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer ($24.98 @ Newegg)
Total: ~$1100

The only thing I am now trying to find is whether it is worth paying extra 30-50$ for a factory overclocked 670. The difference in FPS is pretty less and frankly I do not mind 51fps as compared to 58fps (example numbers). anything above 50fps is the same to me. Reference 670 is above 50fps at 1920X1200 at almost all games (bar Crysis 2).
So I am leaning towards a non-OC version so that I can push it a bit (if req) and save the extra 30$ at the least. Ofcourse a good deal will change the equation. I will wait a bit longer on the GPU before pulling the trigger. As for the rest of the compnents, they will be ordered in the next few days.

Does this build need any more changes? Also I am looking for advice on assembly tools that I may require. Can someone suggest what screwdrives/wrenches (OMG!!) I may require?

@Termie: Yes, I changed my budget as I did not know that a quality gaming rig could be built under 1500. But now thanks to members here I can pull it off.

Thanks,
S

 

[fffblackmage]

The only thing I am now trying to find is whether it is worth paying extra 30-50$ for a factory overclocked 670. The difference in FPS is pretty less and frankly I do not mind 51fps as compared to 58fps (example numbers). anything above 50fps is the same to me. Reference 670 is above 50fps at 1920X1200 at almost all games (bar Crysis 2).
So I am leaning towards a non-OC version so that I can push it a bit (if req) and save the extra 30$ at the least. Ofcourse a good deal will change the equation. I will wait a bit longer on the GPU before pulling the trigger. As for the rest of the compnents, they will be ordered in the next few days.

Most of the time, a "factory overclock" is insignificant and definitely not worth paying anything for. If the gfx card happens to have a better cooler or some other specific feature you would like to have, then maybe that's worth paying a bit more for.

Also I am looking for advice on assembly tools that I may require. Can someone suggest what screwdrives/wrenches (OMG!!) I may require?

You just need your trusty #2 Philips screwdriver (you do have one, don't you?).

 

[santoshn]

Most of the time, a "factory overclock" is insignificant and definitely not worth paying anything for. If the gfx card happens to have a better cooler or some other specific feature you would like to have, then maybe that's worth paying a bit more for.

Hmmmm.... :thumbsup:

You just need your trusty #2 Philips screwdriver (you do have one, don't you?).

:whiste:

 

[riversend]

If this is your first time, look for a step by step build guide. It will help with your organization of parts (and comfort level). Also, recommend you install Win7 with just the SSD connected, after Windows installs then add the other HDD. That ensures no issues with the OS install onto the SSD. Make sure you set up your Windows libraries correctly so that media goes to another drive and does not fill up the SSD.

 

[santoshn]

If this is your first time, look for a step by step build guide. It will help with your organization of parts (and comfort level). Also, recommend you install Win7 with just the SSD connected, after Windows installs then add the other HDD. That ensures no issues with the OS install onto the SSD. Make sure you set up your Windows libraries correctly so that media goes to another drive and does not fill up the SSD.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d_56kyib-Ls
Perfecto!!!

Another question on the GPU: Do I need to get a 4GB version? Is it worth the extra 80$? I have a 1080p monitor. Will my games play better with a 4GB version? More specifically will the minimum frame rate get better with a larger video ram?

- S

 

[lehtv]

The extra RAM isn't worth it on 1080p for a single GPU. It would be worth it for SLI GTX 670, but the current gaming technology doesn't need more than a single 670 on 1080p.

Regarding minimum framerate, even if you happened to max out the card's VRAM during intensive moments, there shouldn't be a noticeable difference.

 

[mfenn]

He changed his budget after I posted.

I hope you're not suggesting that my recommendations of an AsRock extreme4, Samsung ram, and a Seasonic psu were based on bragging rights. They are proven reliable and fairly priced. No, they are not the cheapest possible options, but in the long run cheapest isn't always best.

Anyway, the OP has the information he needs now, so no more needs to be said.

ygpm