- Mar 12, 2006
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Nikon Lens Guide
Note from the author: In this guide, I will attempt to cover most of the popular Nikkor lenses, and explain some terminology specific to the Nikon F-mount SLR system. First, some disclaimers: (1) I do not have hands-on experience with all the lenses that I will discuss. If I have hands-on experience, it will be placed under ?Hands-On Impressions?. (2) I will not be discussing third-party lenses at this time, only Nikkor, Zoom-Nikkor, and Micro-Nikkor models. If you are considering purchasing a lens, post a thread about it in this forum, so we can advise you on the best option for that focal range and price point. All prices are in US Dollars for a new lens from B&H Photo/Video, unless otherwise noted. If anybody feels that I should include another lens, let me know.
Glossary of Terms
Here I will define some of the common acronyms and letters that you will find in Nikon model names.
DX
All of Nikon?s Digital SLRs use an imaging sensor that is smaller than 35mm film*. The size is approximately equal to the APS-C film size, but Nikon calls it ?DX format?. The angle of view in DX format is 1.5 times that of full-frame 35mm film. For example, if you use the popular 50mm focal length on a DX body, it provides the same angle of view as a 75mm lens would on a 35mm full-frame body (50x1.5=75). This ?1.5x crop factor? applies to all lenses of all focal lengths when mounted to a DX-format body.
An advantage of the DX format is that it only uses the center part of the image circle, which is where the highest quality image is projected by older 35mm lenses. A lens designed for the DX format, as designated by the acronym ?DX? in its model name, can be smaller and lighter than a full-frame lens of the same focal length.
* The Nikon D3 uses an imaging sensor that is the same size as 35mm film, and thus has a 1.0 crop factor.
FX
FX is Nikon?s name for a digital sensor that is the same size as 35mm film: 36mm wide by 24mm tall. It is featured in Nikon?s latest professional camera, the D3. Nikon is widely expected to release more FX cameras to better compete against the Canon 1D and 5D lines, relegating DX to the sub-$2000 market.
AF-S
AF-S lenses have the autofocus motor inside the lens, as opposed to conventional AF lenses which use the in-body autofocusing motor present in most Nikon DSLRs.** This allows for quieter autofocusing. There are two types of AF-S lenses, which Nikon unfortunately does not differentiate between. I will call them ?full AF-S? and ?kit AF-S?. Full AF-S is usually found on Nikon?s more expensive lenses, such as the AF-S 70-200mm f/2.8G VR, and allows for faster focusing, and instant manual override by grabbing the focus ring on the lens at any time. Kit AF-S is usually found on Nikon?s kit lenses, such as the AF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6G DX. Kit AF-S requires you to flip a switch from Automatic to Manual focusing, and focuses at the same speed as the in-camera autofocus motor.
** The Nikon D40, D40x, and D60 models do not have an autofocus motor built in to the camera body, and thus will only autofocus with AF-S lenses. Autoexposure is still supported on all AF and AF-S lenses, however. All Nikon autofocusing cameras will indicate when correct manual focus is achieved, and the new D60 includes a focus direction assist indicator.
VR
VR stands for Vibration Reduction, which is Nikon?s anti-shake system. It works by moving an element in the lens, allowing it to be tuned for use with a specific lens and stabilizing the viewfinder image for easier composition and more accurate focusing. In practice it is extremely effective, allowing you to take a photograph at 3-4 stops slower shutter speed than normally required for a clear shot. For example, using the popular 1/focal length method of determining the minimum shutter speed, you could only handhold a 200mm lens on a DX body (300mm equivalent focal length) at 1/300th of a second. But with Vibration Reduction turned on, you could handhold at a 1/40s shutter speed, eight times slower. With good handholding technique plus anti-shake, you could even take a photo at a 1/20s shutter speed. Also, when taking a panning photograph, Nikon VR will automatically turn off the anti-shake on the panning axis.
A first word of warning: Vibration Reduction, or anti-shake from any manufacturer, will not freeze subject motion. A slow shutter speed at a sports match will result in blurs moving across a sharp playing field.
A second word of warning: you will be able to hear the VR system working when it is activated, and hear or feel a click on small lenses or clunk on the large ones when the VR system locks down. Do not remove a VR lens from the camera without first turning the camera off, which locks down the VR system. If you incorrectly remove the lens from the camera before the VR system locks down, you will have a loose VR element shaking around inside your lens! (this is bad)
A third word of warning: if you are using a VR lens or any anti-shake system from any manufacturer on a tripod, turn the anti-shake system off. Leaving it on may actually result in a blurry photograph, as the anti-shake system will correct for vibrations as if it were being hand-held. Exotic supertelephoto VR lenses from Nikon (or Canon IS) may include a Tripod Mode, however.
D-type
D-type lenses are simply AF lenses with an added ?CPU? chip. This chip transmits focusing distance information to the body, which enables ?3D Matrix Metering.? In practice, this only matters when taking a flash photo. D-type lenses have an aperture ring on the lens that must be locked at the smallest aperture to enable aperture control from the body. D-type lenses will interface with the light meter (with some small modifications required for pre-AI cameras) on any Nikon F-mount SLR ever made, going back to 1959. All D-type lenses include AI and AI-s couplings, and pilot holes to install the meter coupling prong to interface with pre-AI bodies such as the original Nikon F.
G-type
G-type lenses are simply D-type lenses without the aperture ring and associated AI/AI-s couplings. Theses lenses dropped the incredible backwards compatibility of the D-type in favor of smaller size and cheaper cost.
ED
All wavelengths of light do not bend the same amount when they pass through a lens, creating chromatic aberrations. This can be seen as colored fringes at high-contrast edges in photographs taken with older lenses. ED (Extra-low Dispersion) glass is a different type of glass that produces smaller chromatic aberrations. An interesting fact with ED lenses is that they can focus past infinity, because the ED glass deforms more with temperature than regular optical glass.
IF
IF stands for Internal Focusing, which means that the front of the lens neither extends nor rotates during focusing. It also allows for closer apparent focusing distances. IF works by moving around internal lens elements to accomplish the focusing movement, but this does result in a technically shorter effective focal length at extremely close focusing distances, though it usually does not matter in practical use.
CRC
CRC stands for Close Range Correction, which keeps the image to sharp in the corners at close focusing distances. This is important for macro lenses and close-focusing wideangle lenses. Nikon accomplishes this by moving the front and rear elements different distances during focusing, and some other optical wizardry.
PC
PC stands for Perspective Control, which is a specialty type of lens that tilts to adjust apparent perspective. This allows you to have the depth of field move diagonally through an image, or take a picture of a building from street level without geometric distortion (no converging lines). These lenses are obviously very expensive, and are called ?tilt-shift?.
SIC & N
SIC stands for Superior Integrated Coating, and N stands for Nano Crystal Coat. They are simply coatings applied to the glass to reduce reflections and increase saturation and contrast. Almost every glass element in every lens from every manufacturer in the last twenty years has these coatings. Do not base your purchase decision on one lens having better advertised coatings than another, because they are all excellent. Other optical design elements have a far greater effect on image quality.
Recommended Lens Outfits
Note from the Author: These are my personal recommendations for the most common lens pairs for your camera bag: the standard zoom covering moderate wideangle to short telephoto, and the telephoto zoom covering short to medium or long telephoto. For specific comments on each lens and many more, please see the next post in this thread. Once you have experimented with several different types of photography and found which types you do most, like best, or want to explore, please start a new thread for us to help you decide on future lenses.
Standard Zoom: AF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6G DX (VR) $120 ($190)
Telephoto Zoom: AF-S 55-200mm f/4.0-5.6G DX (VR) $170 ($230)
As I will hint at in my comments on each of these lenses, they are just made to go together. Each lens is small, lightweight, and cheap enough that used copies of the non-VR versions won?t break the bank. My first two lenses were the 18-55mm and 55-200mm, both non-VR, and I took a lot of photos with them that are still favorites of mine. If you are considering buying both the 18-55mm VR and the 55-200mm VR, I would recommend buying the 18-200mm VR instead, because it is only slightly more expensive yet covers the complete focal range from moderate wideangle to medium telephoto with the same image quality as these two lenses, but in a single lens that you never have to remove from your camera.
Standard Zoom: AF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6G DX (VR) $120 ($190) or AF-S 18-70mm f/3.5-4.5G DX $350 or AF-S 18-135mm f/3.5-5.6G DX $330 or AF-S 16-85mm f/3.5-5.6G DX VR $690
Telephoto Zoom: AF-S 70-300mm f/4.5-5.6G VR $480
While the focal length from 55mm to 70mm is not one that you will miss very often, it can be comforting to have it anyway. Plus the 18-70mm and 18-135mm are huge steps up above the 18-55mm in build quality and autofocus speed. The 16-85mm VR takes the cake though, with VR, full AF-S, and extra wideangle. The 70-300mm VR is a capable telephoto complement as well.
Super Zoom: AF-S 18-200mm f/3.5-5.6G DX VR $680
The 18-200mm VR is, in my humble opinion, the ultimate kit lens. It covers the most common focal lengths (135 format equivalent) from moderate wideangle (28mm) to medium telephoto (300mm), and does so with Vibration Reduction, decently small size and weight, and image and build quality on par with or better than the other variable-aperture kit lenses. Best of all, it does this at a reasonable price compared to the rest of the Nikkor DX lineup.
Standard Zoom: AF-S 17-55mm f/2.8G $1200 or AF-S 24-70mm f/2.8G $1700
Telephoto Zoom: AF-S 70-200mm f/2.8G VR $1600
This is the go-to kit for almost all photojournalists. The standard zoom doesn?t quite afford the creative capabilities of a wideangle, and the telephoto zoom doesn?t get you as close as the exotic supertelephoto primes. Nevertheless, the standard photojournalist loadout is one body with the standard f/2.8 zoom, and the other body with the telephoto f/2.8 zoom (or for you Canon folks, the EF 70-200mm f/4L IS USM to save weight). This is a very versatile combination, allowing photojournalists to quickly capture whatever photographic opportunities might arise, studio photographers to work quickly, and indoor sports photogs to quickly transition from wideangle to telephoto.
Update History
Updated May 16, 2008: Added Recommended Lens Combinations.
Note from the author: In this guide, I will attempt to cover most of the popular Nikkor lenses, and explain some terminology specific to the Nikon F-mount SLR system. First, some disclaimers: (1) I do not have hands-on experience with all the lenses that I will discuss. If I have hands-on experience, it will be placed under ?Hands-On Impressions?. (2) I will not be discussing third-party lenses at this time, only Nikkor, Zoom-Nikkor, and Micro-Nikkor models. If you are considering purchasing a lens, post a thread about it in this forum, so we can advise you on the best option for that focal range and price point. All prices are in US Dollars for a new lens from B&H Photo/Video, unless otherwise noted. If anybody feels that I should include another lens, let me know.
Glossary of Terms
Here I will define some of the common acronyms and letters that you will find in Nikon model names.
DX
All of Nikon?s Digital SLRs use an imaging sensor that is smaller than 35mm film*. The size is approximately equal to the APS-C film size, but Nikon calls it ?DX format?. The angle of view in DX format is 1.5 times that of full-frame 35mm film. For example, if you use the popular 50mm focal length on a DX body, it provides the same angle of view as a 75mm lens would on a 35mm full-frame body (50x1.5=75). This ?1.5x crop factor? applies to all lenses of all focal lengths when mounted to a DX-format body.
An advantage of the DX format is that it only uses the center part of the image circle, which is where the highest quality image is projected by older 35mm lenses. A lens designed for the DX format, as designated by the acronym ?DX? in its model name, can be smaller and lighter than a full-frame lens of the same focal length.
* The Nikon D3 uses an imaging sensor that is the same size as 35mm film, and thus has a 1.0 crop factor.
FX
FX is Nikon?s name for a digital sensor that is the same size as 35mm film: 36mm wide by 24mm tall. It is featured in Nikon?s latest professional camera, the D3. Nikon is widely expected to release more FX cameras to better compete against the Canon 1D and 5D lines, relegating DX to the sub-$2000 market.
AF-S
AF-S lenses have the autofocus motor inside the lens, as opposed to conventional AF lenses which use the in-body autofocusing motor present in most Nikon DSLRs.** This allows for quieter autofocusing. There are two types of AF-S lenses, which Nikon unfortunately does not differentiate between. I will call them ?full AF-S? and ?kit AF-S?. Full AF-S is usually found on Nikon?s more expensive lenses, such as the AF-S 70-200mm f/2.8G VR, and allows for faster focusing, and instant manual override by grabbing the focus ring on the lens at any time. Kit AF-S is usually found on Nikon?s kit lenses, such as the AF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6G DX. Kit AF-S requires you to flip a switch from Automatic to Manual focusing, and focuses at the same speed as the in-camera autofocus motor.
** The Nikon D40, D40x, and D60 models do not have an autofocus motor built in to the camera body, and thus will only autofocus with AF-S lenses. Autoexposure is still supported on all AF and AF-S lenses, however. All Nikon autofocusing cameras will indicate when correct manual focus is achieved, and the new D60 includes a focus direction assist indicator.
VR
VR stands for Vibration Reduction, which is Nikon?s anti-shake system. It works by moving an element in the lens, allowing it to be tuned for use with a specific lens and stabilizing the viewfinder image for easier composition and more accurate focusing. In practice it is extremely effective, allowing you to take a photograph at 3-4 stops slower shutter speed than normally required for a clear shot. For example, using the popular 1/focal length method of determining the minimum shutter speed, you could only handhold a 200mm lens on a DX body (300mm equivalent focal length) at 1/300th of a second. But with Vibration Reduction turned on, you could handhold at a 1/40s shutter speed, eight times slower. With good handholding technique plus anti-shake, you could even take a photo at a 1/20s shutter speed. Also, when taking a panning photograph, Nikon VR will automatically turn off the anti-shake on the panning axis.
A first word of warning: Vibration Reduction, or anti-shake from any manufacturer, will not freeze subject motion. A slow shutter speed at a sports match will result in blurs moving across a sharp playing field.
A second word of warning: you will be able to hear the VR system working when it is activated, and hear or feel a click on small lenses or clunk on the large ones when the VR system locks down. Do not remove a VR lens from the camera without first turning the camera off, which locks down the VR system. If you incorrectly remove the lens from the camera before the VR system locks down, you will have a loose VR element shaking around inside your lens! (this is bad)
A third word of warning: if you are using a VR lens or any anti-shake system from any manufacturer on a tripod, turn the anti-shake system off. Leaving it on may actually result in a blurry photograph, as the anti-shake system will correct for vibrations as if it were being hand-held. Exotic supertelephoto VR lenses from Nikon (or Canon IS) may include a Tripod Mode, however.
D-type
D-type lenses are simply AF lenses with an added ?CPU? chip. This chip transmits focusing distance information to the body, which enables ?3D Matrix Metering.? In practice, this only matters when taking a flash photo. D-type lenses have an aperture ring on the lens that must be locked at the smallest aperture to enable aperture control from the body. D-type lenses will interface with the light meter (with some small modifications required for pre-AI cameras) on any Nikon F-mount SLR ever made, going back to 1959. All D-type lenses include AI and AI-s couplings, and pilot holes to install the meter coupling prong to interface with pre-AI bodies such as the original Nikon F.
G-type
G-type lenses are simply D-type lenses without the aperture ring and associated AI/AI-s couplings. Theses lenses dropped the incredible backwards compatibility of the D-type in favor of smaller size and cheaper cost.
ED
All wavelengths of light do not bend the same amount when they pass through a lens, creating chromatic aberrations. This can be seen as colored fringes at high-contrast edges in photographs taken with older lenses. ED (Extra-low Dispersion) glass is a different type of glass that produces smaller chromatic aberrations. An interesting fact with ED lenses is that they can focus past infinity, because the ED glass deforms more with temperature than regular optical glass.
IF
IF stands for Internal Focusing, which means that the front of the lens neither extends nor rotates during focusing. It also allows for closer apparent focusing distances. IF works by moving around internal lens elements to accomplish the focusing movement, but this does result in a technically shorter effective focal length at extremely close focusing distances, though it usually does not matter in practical use.
CRC
CRC stands for Close Range Correction, which keeps the image to sharp in the corners at close focusing distances. This is important for macro lenses and close-focusing wideangle lenses. Nikon accomplishes this by moving the front and rear elements different distances during focusing, and some other optical wizardry.
PC
PC stands for Perspective Control, which is a specialty type of lens that tilts to adjust apparent perspective. This allows you to have the depth of field move diagonally through an image, or take a picture of a building from street level without geometric distortion (no converging lines). These lenses are obviously very expensive, and are called ?tilt-shift?.
SIC & N
SIC stands for Superior Integrated Coating, and N stands for Nano Crystal Coat. They are simply coatings applied to the glass to reduce reflections and increase saturation and contrast. Almost every glass element in every lens from every manufacturer in the last twenty years has these coatings. Do not base your purchase decision on one lens having better advertised coatings than another, because they are all excellent. Other optical design elements have a far greater effect on image quality.
Recommended Lens Outfits
Note from the Author: These are my personal recommendations for the most common lens pairs for your camera bag: the standard zoom covering moderate wideangle to short telephoto, and the telephoto zoom covering short to medium or long telephoto. For specific comments on each lens and many more, please see the next post in this thread. Once you have experimented with several different types of photography and found which types you do most, like best, or want to explore, please start a new thread for us to help you decide on future lenses.
Standard Zoom: AF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6G DX (VR) $120 ($190)
Telephoto Zoom: AF-S 55-200mm f/4.0-5.6G DX (VR) $170 ($230)
As I will hint at in my comments on each of these lenses, they are just made to go together. Each lens is small, lightweight, and cheap enough that used copies of the non-VR versions won?t break the bank. My first two lenses were the 18-55mm and 55-200mm, both non-VR, and I took a lot of photos with them that are still favorites of mine. If you are considering buying both the 18-55mm VR and the 55-200mm VR, I would recommend buying the 18-200mm VR instead, because it is only slightly more expensive yet covers the complete focal range from moderate wideangle to medium telephoto with the same image quality as these two lenses, but in a single lens that you never have to remove from your camera.
Standard Zoom: AF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6G DX (VR) $120 ($190) or AF-S 18-70mm f/3.5-4.5G DX $350 or AF-S 18-135mm f/3.5-5.6G DX $330 or AF-S 16-85mm f/3.5-5.6G DX VR $690
Telephoto Zoom: AF-S 70-300mm f/4.5-5.6G VR $480
While the focal length from 55mm to 70mm is not one that you will miss very often, it can be comforting to have it anyway. Plus the 18-70mm and 18-135mm are huge steps up above the 18-55mm in build quality and autofocus speed. The 16-85mm VR takes the cake though, with VR, full AF-S, and extra wideangle. The 70-300mm VR is a capable telephoto complement as well.
Super Zoom: AF-S 18-200mm f/3.5-5.6G DX VR $680
The 18-200mm VR is, in my humble opinion, the ultimate kit lens. It covers the most common focal lengths (135 format equivalent) from moderate wideangle (28mm) to medium telephoto (300mm), and does so with Vibration Reduction, decently small size and weight, and image and build quality on par with or better than the other variable-aperture kit lenses. Best of all, it does this at a reasonable price compared to the rest of the Nikkor DX lineup.
Standard Zoom: AF-S 17-55mm f/2.8G $1200 or AF-S 24-70mm f/2.8G $1700
Telephoto Zoom: AF-S 70-200mm f/2.8G VR $1600
This is the go-to kit for almost all photojournalists. The standard zoom doesn?t quite afford the creative capabilities of a wideangle, and the telephoto zoom doesn?t get you as close as the exotic supertelephoto primes. Nevertheless, the standard photojournalist loadout is one body with the standard f/2.8 zoom, and the other body with the telephoto f/2.8 zoom (or for you Canon folks, the EF 70-200mm f/4L IS USM to save weight). This is a very versatile combination, allowing photojournalists to quickly capture whatever photographic opportunities might arise, studio photographers to work quickly, and indoor sports photogs to quickly transition from wideangle to telephoto.
Update History
Updated May 16, 2008: Added Recommended Lens Combinations.