*** Official ASUS A8N-SLI Deluxe (nForce4) Thread ***

[century child]

Originally posted by: SpeedAGonzalez
Thanks SteamnPuter for your reply.

Have already tried to clear CMOS but still don't work.
I don't OC - prefer to run everything at stock as only use air cooling
It seems strange that so may peeps are running this memory but both mine + my friends MOBO won't accept both sticks OCZ ?

But will work with other memory (eg Crucial Ballistix)

This is the third time I have seen this issue from people with supposedly matched sets of OCZ RAM and in the other cases it has turned out that the SPD timings for both modules do not match. You can check this by booting into Windows with one module at a time, using CPU-Z to show what the SPD timing values are for each module. If I'm not mistaken, there is another post close to the beginning of this thread from someone else with the same issue but I am too lazy to hunt it down from this 2,000 post thread.

 

[steamnputer]

Originally posted by: slippy
I personally don't see the point of buying a passive heatsink. Once you take the fan off of the asus heatsink, then you already have a passive heatsink, and it doesn't take up any extra room from your graphics cards and it looks good. On top of that you don't have to remove the motherboard, since you aren't removing the heat sink.

I believe the heatsink itself is of good quaity, and that it was just the fan that was making it a problem. My system has been running for 12 hours, and I've played a few games. Throughout the time I was using it at the most intense times it has never gone above 29C.

I'm playing scorchedearth3d right now and the CPU is at 40C and the mobo is at 29C. When not gaming my a64 3000 cpu runs from 33-35C, and the mobo 27-28C.

I don't what you are looking at but the temp reading for MOBO is not the chipset.....
That is on the winnbond chip much farther away. The chipset gets incredibly hot, with the fan on it, so I can only imagine how hot it gets without the fan. I have a TT case so i put a TC on it about 2 weeks ago now, (its not run this last week...) was averaging 51 idle, and hitting 60 while burning a cd. The chhipset fan decided start making noisse the friday before I left, I am sure the HS is of good quality becuase of how hot it gets, the fan is of dubious question.

 

[steamnputer]

Originally posted by: CW
Check out this other topic on anandtech about the A8N-SLI Deluxe chipset fan:

http://forums.anandtech.com/messageview...&STARTPAGE=1&FTVAR_FORUMVIEWTMP=Linear

Some people (including myself) are taking the Papst route...

did you have link to the pabpst fan? did you notice if there was one for 3pin header on the MOBO, or do they use the molex...

thanks
steamnputer

PABST quality is next to if not the best, I use them in industrial appilications(10 years average life), i never knew or thought that they made puter style fans, my ignorace I guess.

 

[imported_slippy]

Something about your post inspired me to do a little more research. My dad is an engineer so had a digital thermometer. It appears that the mobo reading is off as you say.

I measured the heatsinks at different points, including their base. I took the highest temp I could find. For testing at a reasonable load I used scorched earth 3d with the players all turned to computers. This is my typical usage for gaming. Maybe someone could see if they get the same results while looping that game. It's free like linux at www.scorched3d.co.uk

Without the fan, the temp of the heatsink at idle is 37C, 42-44C at load. The CPU at idle is 29C. 32C at load.

Now, I have a case fan inside which also may be effecting this, causing the temp to be lower, but my theory is that since the asus fan spins so ridiculously fast for its tiny size, that it actually generates more heat than it could ever alleviate, especially since the fan actually rests on the heat sink, transfering its heat directly to it.

If you could test yours without the fan using your TC, I would be interested in the results.

Room temp is 23C according to this thermometer.

 

[JJK80]

I think that all ASUS A8N-SLI mobo owners should e-mail to ASUS
and give complains from the chipset fan, otherwise they ignore it.

 

[steamnputer]

Originally posted by: slippy
Something about your post inspired me to do a little more research. My dad is an engineer so had a digital thermometer. It appears that the mobo reading is off as you say.

I measured the heatsinks at different points, including their base. I took the highest temp I could find. For testing at a reasonable load I used scorched earth 3d with the players all turned to computers. This is my typical usage for gaming. Maybe someone could see if they get the same results while looping that game. It's free like linux at www.scorched3d.co.uk

Without the fan, the temp of the heatsink at idle is 37C, 42-44C at load. The CPU at idle is 29C. 32C at load.

Now, I have a case fan inside which also may be effecting this, causing the temp to be lower, but my theory is that since the asus fan spins so ridiculously fast for its tiny size, that it actually generates more heat than it could ever alleviate, especially since the fan actually rests on the heat sink, transfering its heat directly to it.

If you could test yours without the fan using your TC, I would be interested in the results.

Room temp is 23C according to this thermometer.

One question what kind of thermometer did you use? was it direct contact or infared(indirect).

I plan too but as my puter roughly 900 miles away at the moment I really won't be able to for a few days. I have seen what you think abou the fan creating heat already been proven in the link listed above for the chipsset fan. My big concern is that removing that fan will cause problems when using the DVD burner or alot HDD work, thats seems to be when it hits its peak, during gaming it may not be as taxed as the GPU and CPU. At 8k the fan is basicly machining itself inplace. I doubt they used mobil 1 turbine oil to lubricate the bearing.
My TC placement is on the top of the chipset heatsink, one critical thing when you do something like this is insulate the other half of the TC(the air side) or your readings will go lower. I use bluegoo, but things like mylar tape, ductseal, or even silly putty will work, I by rule of thumb use twice the size of area of the tc about the size of a small pea. If you use scotch tape or regular tape expect to see a lower reading.

My internal fans blow upon the chipset fan from the otherside of the case, and so does my HSF(gigabyte rocket) and she still runs hot. I will flip one of the other TC's on to the chipset when I get home to compare and acount for any error in the tc.
I don't have scorch3d but maybe if i can get good download I will, (what is it an FPS?)
my TC are by far not the best but I think that they are accurate to 2 degrees. Are you running at 50hz or 60hz electrical, this will make a slight difference in temps because of the PSU (50Hz is a little hotter).

This is starting to eat at me more and more. I wonder if ASUS is doing anything about this, far too many people are having problems now.

steamnputer

 

[imported_slippy]

It was a direct contact thermometer. I suppose an infrared would be more accurate?

I did not have one side sealed off, but I'll try that some time today. I can tell you though that I am confident that even closing off a side will not cause the reading to go up by 13C at idle, but I will still try it none the less.

I hadn't seen that link about the chipset thing being proven, but I'll look for that too.

"My big concern is that removing that fan will cause problems when using the DVD burner or alot HDD work, thats seems to be when it hits its peak, during gaming it may not be as taxed as the GPU and CPU."

I guess my problem with this is that, if true, the fan is really doing nothing but giving an illusion of safety while at the same time making the heatsink hotter. Whether making a dvd or not, fi the fan isn't cooling anything, then readings are bound to be worse.

That said, I left a message in the a8n chipset fanreplacement thread about how I am set up. I do have two 90 mm fans inside my case directed near the heatsink. I had them turned down for my test. Of course the heatsink is getting more air now then it ever did with the chipset fan that was generating heat on top of it, even though these fans are 4-5 inches away from it.

Unfortunately, one of these fans must be hitting that temperature guage on the winbond controller directly.

I guess what I could do is cut off that fan, and test again, though that wouldn't really do much for me since I like the setup how it is right now.

I guess what I'm saying is that you probably shouldn't use the heatsink as a passive heatsink alone. At the same time I think using a papst is probably not as worthwhile as putting a larger fan in your case. My main point is that there is likely very little reason, in a practical sense, to exchange the asus heatsink for a different heatsink like the zalman... for many reasons. The zalman are too tall, as are most, and interfere with graphics cards. They also will need extra cooling regardless. The size of the asus is to its benefit here. On top of that, you don't have to remove the motherboard.

Basically, I think many are blaming the heatsink and fan, essentially throwing the whole thing out when the only problem may be the fan itself. I think the papst option is good, but I'd rather have a larger fan inside the case anyways to help direct airflow in the direction of the motherboard, rather than past it.

Scorched earth is a multiplayer turn by turn tank game where you try to judge the distance and direction of a tank and shoot it. Hit 4 when playing to get a good view... alot like an fps in a way. Give it a shot.

I'll try to look up the hz thing in a bit, but I'm running a neopower480 if that tells you anything.

 

[cryzpene]

I posted this on another thread but I just realized this is a more active thread.

I have the sort of the same problem too. Initially, my a8n-sli deluxe was RMAed. After I got it back, it ran well for a week. One morning, my OS froze so I pressed the reboot button and it won't reboot. For about a day, it won't work so I called ASUS. The tech support guy told me to replace the battery. So I did. Yes, it worked but for about a less than a week. The same problem occured. Replaced the battery. Now I ran out of those battery and have to wait for tomorrow morning.

I hope someone with similar experience can help me out here. I'm trying my best to send it back for the second time. I love this motherboard except for these problems.

-Crispin

 

[Cook1]

Maybe someone who has this board can set me straight. I thought that when you go SLI you just have to flip the card inbetween the PCI-E slots and connect a 4-pin molex connector into the motherboard itself.

Is that it or do you need to plug in anything to the card itself?

 

[steamnputer]

Originally posted by: slippy
It was a direct contact thermometer. I suppose an infrared would be more accurate?

less actually thats why i asked, infareds are nice for things you cannot or do not want to get close to. They are only accurate, or should say as accurate as the air between you and the sensed object. I would say maybe 10degrees on a good day. Diret contanct are better, like i said with end sealed.
[/quote]
I did not have one side sealed off, but I'll try that some time today. I can tell you though that I am confident that even closing off a side will not cause the reading to go up by 13C at idle, but I will still try it none the less.
[/quote]
there is no saying for sure my tc is all that accurate, thats why i want to put a second one on therre. I have read in other links about it reaching 60C.
[/quote]
I hadn't seen that link about the chipset thing being proven, but I'll look for that too.
[/quote]
its in the chipset fan link somewhere, someone did a bunch of readings with and with the fan.
[/quote]


I guess my problem with this is that, if true, the fan is really doing nothing but giving an illusion of safety while at the same time making the heatsink hotter. Whether making a dvd or not, fi the fan isn't cooling anything, then readings are bound to be worse.

I guess what I could do is cut off that fan, and test again, though that wouldn't really do much for me since I like the setup how it is right now.
[/quote]
you sound as hesitantant as me... i don't want too but...
[/quote]
I guess what I'm saying is that you probably shouldn't use the heatsink as a passive heatsink alone. At the same time I think using a papst is probably not as worthwhile as putting a larger fan in your case. My main point is that there is likely very little reason, in a practical sense, to exchange the asus heatsink for a different heatsink like the zalman... for many reasons. The zalman are too tall, as are most, and interfere with graphics cards. They also will need extra cooling regardless. The size of the asus is to its benefit here. On top of that, you don't have to remove the motherboard.
[/quote]
:thumbsup:
I agree down the road a zalman maybe more a problem i don't have 6800 cards, but i doubt replacements will be smaller.
[/quote]]
Scorched earth is a multiplayer turn by turn tank game where you try to judge the distance and direction of a tank and shoot it. Hit 4 when playing to get a good view... alot like an fps in a way. Give it a shot.

I'll try to look up the hz thing in a bit, but I'm running a neopower480 if that tells you anything.[/quote]

the Hz thing is your power system in your conuntry its really simple, if you live in north america(or about 99.95%) you have 60hz if you live any were else you have 50hz with few notable execptions in the middle east and some islands. Its the power at the plug and for the most part of the argument its irelavant.

I will try and get ahold of that game.

 

[steamnputer]

Originally posted by: Cook1
Maybe someone who has this board can set me straight. I thought that when you go SLI you just have to flip the card inbetween the PCI-E slots and connect a 4-pin molex connector into the motherboard itself.

Is that it or do you need to plug in anything to the card itself?

Ok I need to start this off the right way, you need to read the manual cover to cover, or top to bottom in the case of PDF. Its going to save you alot of problems, and judging by the question you have not read it yet.
This statement also goes for your video card, to a lesser extent.

Here is a link but you have to be over 18 and not faint of heart to look at it a little humor you might say.....

http://www.altgeek.org/methuselah/rtfm/

If you have read the manual and forgot then I apologize...


page 2-25
direct quote

"Do not forget to connect the 4-pin ATX +12 v power plug; otherwise, the system will not boot"
-that is the sqaure one
"When using two graphics cards, do not forget to connect the 4-pin ATX +12 V power plug to the EZ Plug; otherwise, the system will be unstable. see page 6-5 for details."
-that is the molex connector.

You may or may not set the 184 pin jumper to SLI thats your choice, to gain the benefits of SLI you need to set the jumper to SLI.
Of course you will need to have to SLI capable identical video cards and the SLI jumper installed between the two cards- dah
If you have, then you need to set the BIOS to SLI, it may or may ont auto-detect. Then you need to set SLI in gaphics settings in windows and on the nvidia tray. A total of 4 places.
Your GPU may or may not have a power plug on it, it seems that 6800's and higher do, whereas 6600's don't. This would be dependant on your video card(s).

A little more information in regards to a problem would be helpful, but if you are just asking thats all you need to do.

Did I miss anything guys?

steamnputer

 

[Cook1]

"Do not forget to connect the 4-pin ATX +12 v power plug; otherwise, the system will not boot"
-that is the sqaure one

I could actually take offense to that...seriously, I'm not a first time builder

Basically, what I was trying to go for here was a confirmation if I had the right idea.

"When using two graphics cards, do not forget to connect the 4-pin ATX +12 V power plug to the EZ Plug; otherwise, the system will be unstable. see page 6-5 for details."
-that is the molex connector.

I only have a 6600 right now but will probably be getting two 6600GTs, I love my PSU and have been hearing a lot of people complain about not having a PCI-E PSU and they want to go SLI and etc etc etc...

So do I have the right idea or am I missing something?

 

[steamnputer]

Originally posted by: Cook1

"Do not forget to connect the 4-pin ATX +12 v power plug; otherwise, the system will not boot"
-that is the sqaure one

I could actually take offense to that...seriously, I'm not a first time builder

Basically, what I was trying to go for here was a confirmation if I had the right idea.

"When using two graphics cards, do not forget to connect the 4-pin ATX +12 V power plug to the EZ Plug; otherwise, the system will be unstable. see page 6-5 for details."
-that is the molex connector.

I only have a 6600 right now but will probably be getting two 6600GTs, I love my PSU and have been hearing a lot of people complain about not having a PCI-E PSU and they want to go SLI and etc etc etc...

So do I have the right idea or am I missing something?

I figured as much as your posts was over 3k, but I wanted to reafirm the reading the manual thing it has not be said in awhile, and this was the first time I read the manual cover to cover myself there was to much conflicting info when I order all the parts.

I don't follow you on the PSU concern all the plugs are standard, the only new plug that I have heard of is the 24 pin main connector, and that is more then likely not needed you are running non SLI. The adaptor was included in both my PSU and with the motherboard so you should have one anyway(I would imagine you are using it already). Unless there are adaptors for the 6800 series cards, I was under the impression that they were regular molex connectors. Someone please enlighten me if I am wrong. As far 6600GT's its a safe bet to say that they take all there power from the PCI-e bus thats why you have the extra molex(ez-plug) on the mobo. If there are 6600GT's that use extra power I am not aware of again someone enlighten me, I do reccomend you only get the certified SLI cards listed on ASUS's web site and in the manual, oddly enough they sell some of there own cards which are not certified, sold as SLI capable.

edit-the only concern with PSU's has been rail to rail output being to low, seems that bare min. with sli is 400W, the higher you CPU, more pci cards, the higher your GPU(s) the higher PSU needs to be to stable. Maybe thats what you are hearing, if thats the case I would.

I did read the thread you were asking about the pci-e connectors, these are only for certain cards I would imagine that the cards come with those adaptors anyway. My 6600GT's don't use that and they work just dandy. I paged through the MSI manual real quick and about half of the 6800s use are regular looking molex and the other half use 4 pin header simliar to a fan header. I actually did see some listings for MSI 6600GT's with connectors including my own but as they say in the manual your card may vary from what is pictured. MSI includes there connectors....
But you do have to plug that molex into the MOBO thats is for sure, unlike what someone said in the thread when you are running SLI.

 

[imported_CW]

Originally posted by: steamnputer

Originally posted by: CW
Check out this other topic on anandtech about the A8N-SLI Deluxe chipset fan:

http://forums.anandtech.com/messageview...&STARTPAGE=1&FTVAR_FORUMVIEWTMP=Linear

Some people (including myself) are taking the Papst route...

did you have link to the pabpst fan? did you notice if there was one for 3pin header on the MOBO, or do they use the molex...

thanks
steamnputer

PABST quality is next to if not the best, I use them in industrial appilications(10 years average life), i never knew or thought that they made puter style fans, my ignorace I guess.

The MoBo has 3pin connectors for the fans: CPU, Case and Chipset.
Some people arrived to the conclusion that CPU & Case fans can be controlled by software (SpeedFan, for example), but the chipset fan, for some mysterious reason, can't be controlled.

So the only difference between the 4 and 3 pin of the Papst is that with the second you'll be able to monitor the RPMs.

You can search the Papst website for the info, but here are some links:

http://www.hardlimit.com/shop/product_info.php?products_id=739 (Spain)
http://www.bbsstore.com/product_info.php?products_id=2777 (Germany)
http://www.papst.de/ (German & English - Official website)

 

[steamnputer]

Originally posted by: CW

Originally posted by: steamnputer

Originally posted by: CW
Check out this other topic on anandtech about the A8N-SLI Deluxe chipset fan:

http://forums.anandtech.com/messageview...&STARTPAGE=1&FTVAR_FORUMVIEWTMP=Linear

Some people (including myself) are taking the Papst route...

did you have link to the pabpst fan? did you notice if there was one for 3pin header on the MOBO, or do they use the molex...

thanks
steamnputer

PABST quality is next to if not the best, I use them in industrial appilications(10 years average life), i never knew or thought that they made puter style fans, my ignorace I guess.

The MoBo has 3pin connectors for the fans: CPU, Case and Chipset.
Some people arrived to the conclusion that CPU & Case fans can be controlled by software (SpeedFan, for example), but the chipset fan, for some mysterious reason, can't be controlled.

So the only difference between the 4 and 3 pin of the Papst is that with the second you'll be able to monitor the RPMs.

You can search the Papst website for the info, but here are some links:

http://www.hardlimit.com/shop/product_info.php?products_id=739 (Spain)
http://www.bbsstore.com/product_info.php?products_id=2777 (Germany)
http://www.papst.de/ (German & English - Official website)

Does any one have a link besides the main company web page, they don't sell them off of here(I am a stuipd american I cannot read enlish let alone german). To answer your question, about the chipset fan is that it is "syncronized" with the cpu fan(since you cannot sync a fan of different poles and size its a farce) unless they developed some sorta of alogrithim to do it. Since everyone's fan is ripping along at 7-8k i really doubt it. The only reason I was asking if they had headers on them was to save trying to plug a molex connector into(big and bulky)the fan, otherwise 3-pin header as you stated does the same thing and its not in the way.

I am to the point now that ASUS and the other MOBO manufactuers are not "specing" this and maybe it nvidia's fault, maybe it comes attached to there chipset already.(this would not suprise me)-thats only a guess...

 

[imported_slippy]

"the Hz thing is your power system in your conuntry its really simple, if you live in north america(or about 99.95%) you have 60hz if you live any were else you have 50hz with few notable execptions in the middle east and some islands. Its the power at the plug and for the most part of the argument its irelavant."

I'm in Ohio, and I remembered setting my monitor to 60hz, but didn't know if you were talking about something else.

Haven't had time to do anymore testing, hopefully will soon.

 

[steamnputer]

Originally posted by: slippy
"the Hz thing is your power system in your conuntry its really simple, if you live in north america(or about 99.95%) you have 60hz if you live any were else you have 50hz with few notable execptions in the middle east and some islands. Its the power at the plug and for the most part of the argument its irelavant."

I'm in Ohio, and I remembered setting my monitor to 60hz, but didn't know if you were talking about something else.

Haven't had time to do anymore testing, hopefully will soon.

The Hz of your power supply has really nothing to do with it, so forget about it.

 

[Wild1]

Originally posted by: Wild1
Bad MB, crappy drivers, or Pilot error?

Bringing up a new A8N system. Finally got all the conflicts resolved. Loaded 1006 drivers (no IDE driver), Nvidia 71.84 video drivers and windows SP2. Generally seemed stable when I booted into windows but started messing with the screen resolution. Tried rotating the screen for fun and system crashed. After auto reboot, crashes again?goes on in continuous loop this way. Fortunately, I had created an image disk and had to use this to recover as everything else I did was unsuccessful.

Any ideas on what could be causing this and possible solution?

Also worried that I have a bad build or bad MB. Any suggestions on best way to test it out?

Originally posted by: steamnputer
what kind of monitor are you using?

Originally posted by: Wild1
The monitor is a old piece of crap I am only using while building the new system. I have the new build on my "bench" with the old monitor (IBM 6547), still using good monitor (Sony 20seII) for current working system. I thought about this briefly, so I pulled out the monitor from the Vid card when it was in a crash / reboot cycle. Continued to crash reboot (could hear faint reboot sound when it rebooted). I only let it go one cycle...Did this rule out the monitor or should I use the newer Sony monitor and try the whole test again. Easy enough to do, but may cause me to reimage again which takes several hours.

Follow-up to this discussion above for anyone who may have a similar problem...

Switched out monitor to newer Sony...no improvement..had to reimage again. Other than that I have not had any other problems with the Video card/drivers. I'll keep the newer drivers loaded but as far as I am concerned, the rotate image setting is hands off until a new driver version comes out. Unles you have an image or are very daring..stay away from the rotate settings if your setup is similar to mine.

If anyone is daring, let us know if your rotate image setting works without crashing your system. According to eVGA tech, it works on his system...probably not configured with RAID or serial CDROM or ...?

 

[Devistater]

I just bought a a8n-sli deluxe and I have a question about it.

If I connect the front audio connection on my case, will that disable the rear plugs? I want to be able to use speakers in the back and headphones in the rear (preferably simultaneously, but if I have to unplug headphones from front if that enables rear again, I can live with that).

Thanks!

 

[imported_CW]

Originally posted by: Devistater
I just bought a a8n-sli deluxe and I have a question about it.

If I connect the front audio connection on my case, will that disable the rear plugs? I want to be able to use speakers in the back and headphones in the rear (preferably simultaneously, but if I have to unplug headphones from front if that enables rear again, I can live with that).

Thanks!

If your case is prepared you can use one or the other output (my Thermaltake Tsunami came with audio return wires, I don't know if this is common). But you can't use both at the same time. If both outputs are used, the rear MoBo connection stays silent.

 

[Devistater]

Originally posted by: CW

Originally posted by: Devistater
I just bought a a8n-sli deluxe and I have a question about it.

If I connect the front audio connection on my case, will that disable the rear plugs? I want to be able to use speakers in the back and headphones in the rear (preferably simultaneously, but if I have to unplug headphones from front if that enables rear again, I can live with that).

Thanks!

If your case is prepared you can use one or the other output (my Thermaltake Tsunami came with audio return wires, I don't know if this is common). But you can't use both at the same time. If both outputs are used, the rear MoBo connection stays silent.

Ah hah! That makes sense. Because there are jumpers there now which makes it provide sound to the rear. The audio plug maintains that "jumper" with the return wires (yeah mine has them), and taps off of it to bring it to the headphone plug. Got it.
That also implies the answer to my other question which was, does it matter where the return wires plug into?? No, because they (the "return" wires are connected together in the plugs) Thats cool, thanks!

 

[squonk]

Originally posted by: steamnputer

Originally posted by: SpeedAGonzalez


Hi I'm new to these forums and was wondering if anyone has suggestions for my new A8N SLI sytem memory problem.

My system specs are
AMD64 3800+,
Asus A8N SLI-Deluxe (with Zalman NB-47J Chipset cooler fitted)
1GB(2x512) OCZ PC3200EL Platinum Edition Revision 2 (CAS 2-2-2-5)
Creative Audigy 2 ZS + Altec Lansing 5100 Speakers
2x Asus TOP 6600GT's
PCP&C 510W SLI PSU,
Thermalright XP120 + Panaflo 120mm fan (68CFM @ 30db),
74gb WD Raptor, 160GB WD Caviar SATA, 120GB Maxtor IDE,
Pioneer 109 16x DVD-R/+R burner,
Asus 16x CD/DVD Rom
T/Take Harcano 12 Fan/Temp Controller
Iiyama 20" TFT Monitor
Lian-Li PC6070A case

My PC will not boot up with both RAM sticks installed (regardless of what slots are used) - Asus Voice Reporter gives 'Bad Memory Timing' message.
It will accept either stick in B1 Slot but not 2 sticks.
My pal also has an A8N SLI-Deluxe and my OCZ 2 sticks will not run on his board either.
Both boards work fine with his 1GB Crucial Ballistix PC3200.

I did quite a lot of research on AnandTech + Tom's Hardware Guide and some forums before choosing the OCZ memory - which was always given good reviews as being one of the best EL Ram modules available.

Has anyone else had this problem with OCZ memory ? It sounds like memory modules are not matched if pc will boot up with 1 stick only.

But lots of people here seem to be running OCZ with no problem ?

Your specs look really good, the only thing I can think of is clear CMOS,(see post on last page reagarding video problem) with the mem settings to auto and try again, I searched the forums have not seen that particular post and/nor do I reacall anything like that and I have been watching for awhile now. As a word of caution don't set it upto OC out of the gate just set it to stock or fairly stock settings(auto). I assume you are trying A1 and B1 for the memory slots as you can only get b1 to work. Also shut off the audio post thing and the posting picture they are know to cause problems. Then try and get all your drivers/bios's uptodate.


BTW I know for a fact that ASUS video card is not SLI ceritfied(isnt that ironic).
http://www.asus.com/products/mb/socket939/a8nsli-d/overview.htm#


steamnputer

Did ya change Bios to DDR400 if not try that

 

[SpeedAGonzalez]

As posted by Squonk
Did ya change Bios to DDR400 if not try that

Yep tried changing both ram timings to 2-2-2-5 and DDR to 400 in BIOS - still no luck.
Overclockers.co.uk have agrees to RMA request so sending it back.

I'll see if new modules work finally work

 

[garikfox]

A added tip:

When using 4x512mb of ram in all slots it knocks the system dowm to DDR333.

 

[jenneth]

Hi, I have a question about the A8N-SLI Deluxe's SATA controllers.

I'm going to get this board in the next couple of days, I'll also get a 74GB Raptor & a Seagate 160GB Barracuda 7200.7. My question is, has the NF4-NCQ incompatibility issues being resolved w/ the latest bio update? I've heard some horror stories about people's file become corrupted when NCQ being turned on, or their HD(s) not being recognize by the BIO.

I was going to get the SATAII150 TX2plus, but it seem kind of ridiculous. So, I'm hoping someone can shed some light on this. Thanks.

j.