*** Official ASUS P4C800/Deluxe (875P) Thread ***

[xabin]

Thanks for the replies.

It would seem strange to me that my RAM settings would cause this, since I have never been able to set/modify them.. I've never gotten past post (and now I don't seem to even get there?). I tried holding down delete, but it's the same. Everything spins up, case fans, cpu fan, graphics card fan, harddrive, cd-rom drive (don't know about the floppy drive, but most likely it powers up too. I've used it before and know it works.) No signal to monitor, no beeps.
I'm not using USB mouse or keyboard.
I also know that the monitor is working.
Yes, I did try with the motherboard outside of the case too.
Just now I tried with only cpu+fan, mobo, graphics card, psu and ram. I had tried it and many other combinations before, but just to make sure. It didn't work this time either..
Yes, I have connected the two cables from the PSU to the motherboard.

"I think it will only support 1.5v and .......what's an 8x AGP card.... .5v I think."
A Asus GeForce4 Ti4200 is 8x AGP, isn't it? So this could be the problem? I thought this motherboard supported 8x AGP cards?

 

[xabin]

BTW, before when it used to beep, it beeped even when I removed the graphics card..
I don't know what the computer service place did to make it stop beep. The internal speaker is connected as it should be. Maybe if I clear CMOS again it'll start beeping again. Should I try..? ;P

 

[Xeon]

Originally posted by: xabin
BTW, before when it used to beep, it beeped even when I removed the graphics card..
I don't know what the computer service place did to make it stop beep. The internal speaker is connected as it should be. Maybe if I clear CMOS again it'll start beeping again. Should I try..? ;P

Why fix what ain't broke?

 

[computer]

Yes, it supports AGP 4x and 8x, that's what I mentioned below about supporting 1.5v (4x) and I think the 8x AGP cards are .5v.

Have you disconnected ALL fans hooked to it except for the CPU fan? If so, this is really strange if every single thing has been replaced. When you took it out of the case, did you remove the case panel connections (for power, reset, HDD LED, etc.) and just try to turn it on by shorting the pwr switch? Are you SURE the AGP card(s) is FULLY SEATED ALL THE WAY in the slot?

 

[Xeon]

Originally posted by: xabin
Thanks for the replies.

It would seem strange to me that my RAM settings would cause this, since I have never been able to set/modify them.. I've never gotten past post (and now I don't seem to even get there?). I tried holding down delete, but it's the same. Everything spins up, case fans, cpu fan, graphics card fan, harddrive, cd-rom drive (don't know about the floppy drive, but most likely it powers up too. I've used it before and know it works.) No signal to monitor, no beeps.
I'm not using USB mouse or keyboard.
I also know that the monitor is working.
Yes, I did try with the motherboard outside of the case too.
Just now I tried with only cpu+fan, mobo, graphics card, psu and ram. I had tried it and many other combinations before, but just to make sure. It didn't work this time either..
Yes, I have connected the two cables from the PSU to the motherboard.

"I think it will only support 1.5v and .......what's an 8x AGP card.... .5v I think."
A Asus GeForce4 Ti4200 is 8x AGP, isn't it? So this could be the problem? I thought this motherboard supported 8x AGP cards?

So you don't even see the bios post? If that's the case then you definately have something else going on. If you do see it post then read on.

The bios comes from the factory with specific settings that don't match your ram. You'll just have to Trust me, you need to go in and set them manually and it should boot up. You need to repeatedly hit the delete key until you jump into the bios. You have to do this the minute you turn the power on. You'll then figure out when you need to hit the delete key later as you do it more often.

Yes it does support 8X AGP, and with that card you can leave it 1.5, but I think you'll find it will like 1.6 much better.

Trust me we are trying to help you here. All the settings I gave you will work if you just try them. You can later change them to whatever you want so don't worry.

 

[xabin]

I usually don't disconnect the case fans (I have two connected to the motherboard), but when I had the motherboard outside of the case they were disconnected.
No, I haven't removed the case panel connections.. I don't know how to turn it on by shorting the power switch.
Yes, I'm sure the graphics card is fully inserted. This was what I first checked, and I have checked it -many- times.

No, I don't see the bios post.. I'm not getting anything on my monitor :/

The only thing I personally haven't tested is the ram.. but since I've had them returned and got new back they really shouldn't be causing any problems.. I'm going to test with a friend's ddr333 ram (333mhz would work, right?) in a few days anyway.

 

[computer]

You just momentarily short the two pins where the power switch connects. It's light green and is marked "PWR SW". I just use a screwdriver. That's about your last chance. If it still won't work with no case connectors connected, then you need to try a different kind of memory. If it works then, then go in the BIOS and manually set the timings to what the Corsair specs are. Could be that the memory is not getting SPD'd correctly. However I still don't understand those 1 long and 2 shorts beeps that means a video problem. I seem to vaguely remember something about TwinX LL being a bit buggy with this mobo.

 

[xabin]

Ok, I tried shorting the power switch.. it started up as usual, but it didn't solve anything. Still no signal to monitor..

I kind of hope you're right about this ram+mobo being buggy. If it does work with my friend's ram, maybe my own ram will work after updating bios/changing ram settings.
Will 333Mhz ddr-ram work with this 800FSB cpu? I read somewhere that it requires 400Mhz ram.

 

[computer]

Yeah, I think it will just run at 320mhz.

I'm sure some others on this thread are using 3200LL, so when they wake up or maybe sometime during the day you'll get some input on that. I think I'm remembering a bit more on that now. I seem to remember something about CH5 Vs. BH5 chips on the RAM modules, or something like that. You may want to find that now if you can, you'll have to remove the RAM heatsinks and look at the chips. Someone will may ask you that. Also the Rev. of the RAM if it has one.

 

[xabin]

I don't feel very comfortable playing around with my ram. I did try to remove the heatsinks, but even after removing the metal clip they didn't seem to want to come off.
At least I found the revision number printed on the outside. It says "CMX512RE - 3200LL" "XMS3200REv1.1". There are also some numbers nearby, "0347106" and "2326".

 

[biscuitboy]

what FSB can people run when using RAM set to 400Mhz or 1.1??

 

[computer]

Ok, that may be enough. The heatsinks are attached with thermal tape. Sandra or AIDA32, or similar may tell you the chips' names, I don't recall. Someone else may be able to clarify that.

As far as the bus speeds........well, that depends on everything. For a 2.4C 800mhz quad-pumped CPU (200mhz bus) it's anywhere from 200-300mhz & higher with special cooling (if you luck out and get a good chip). Mine is running @281mhz bus. The faster the CPU, the lower the bus speeds you'll be able to get. That's why a 2.4C is your best bet. It's the cheapest, you can get a higher bus out of it giving you more memory bandwidth and performance. A 2.4C @3ghz (250mhz bus) will out perform a 3ghz @200mhz default bus. But, my first 2.4C sucked, it would only do about 3ghz/250mhz (Costa Rica). The one I have now is a Malay and it will actually do higher than 3.5ghz (290 bus) at a lower memory ratio, but the memory performance is much worse since it's not 1:1. What's strange is tests I've seen comparing O'clocking a 2.4, 2.6, and 3ghz; they would all O'clock about the same! All about 3.4-3.5ghz. Since the 2.4C had the highest FSB, it was the fastest of the bunch. I sometimes think they use the same silicon for all wafers and just test them at given speeds and if they pass that speed, they "stamp" it that speed and box it up. If for example they "need" a 3ghz CPU, they test one @3ghz and if it doesn't pass, they try it at 2.8, and so on until it passes. So, you can luck out and get a great piece of silicon they tested at 2.4ghz, boxed it up, when it may have easily passed way beyond 3ghz.

 

[muppet]

so would it be quicker to have the fastest DDR settings in BIOS and lower the FSB for stability or leave the SPD settings on Auto and have highest FSB being stable??

I am going to run CPU voltage at 1.7 and DDR at 2.85 and see highest FSB i can run testing with Prime95 and memtest.
i cant see it being much above 250 though
Processor is 2.6Ghz and RAM is OCZ 4200EL

 

[computer]

If it won't do more than 250mhz, you should get different RAM since your PC4200 would be underclocked and that really hurts RAM performance.

Vcore of 1.7v is a bit too high. I did the Vdimm mod and was able to get about 20mhz FSB MORE from my memory. My Vdimm now is about 3.06v.

so would it be quicker to have the fastest DDR settings in BIOS and lower the FSB for stability or leave the SPD settings on Auto and have highest FSB being stable??

Sorry, I haven't been to sleep yet and I'm almost delirious! I can't think very well now but I'll try again tonight.

 

[hpfanatic]

I got mine figured out. I thought the problem might have been in the Raid controller, so I disconnected from it and hooked my drives to the regular IDE connector. It booted up and ran fine. I wanted to confirm it for sure, so rehooked up to the Raid controller and this time it also booted fine. The IDE Cable must not have been fully seated, even though it looked like it was. Now the CPU, Memory and Drive benchmarks are fine.

 

[muppet]

so it must be the CPU holding me back
if prime95 fails running FSB at 250+ and DDR is at 400Mhz
it does work if CPU voltage is increased though

 

[jhites]

Originally posted by: xabin
I don't feel very comfortable playing around with my ram. I did try to remove the heatsinks, but even after removing the metal clip they didn't seem to want to come off.
At least I found the revision number printed on the outside. It says "CMX512RE - 3200LL" "XMS3200REv1.1". There are also some numbers nearby, "0347106" and "2326".

As computer pointed out there have been some issues with certain ram. First the main difference between the Winbond CH5 and BH5 chips is that CH5 will normally overclock higher but with lower timings. The BH5 chips will normally not overclock as high but will yield much tighter timings.

The problem that ppl were reporting with the Corsair LL ram was due to the auto (spd) settings. The board defaults to 3-4-4-8-8 and this ram is programed at 2-3-2-6 (If I recall). Anyway, the fix seemed to be to set the ram to manual in the bios and adjust the timings to the spec that the ram was designed to run. You should have no problem running that ram on this board as long as you keep the timings close to spec and not to loose. You can also increase the vdimm to 2.85v and most likely get them to run slightly above DDR400.

DDR333 ram should run on the board but you will have to change the multiplier to 5:4 (320) and set the fsb to 200Mhz. This will put the ram running at DDR320.

edit: The BH5 chips are almost none attainable any longer. They were replaced by the CH5. So if the ram is fairly new, then it is likely that the chips are CH5 Winbond.

 

[Crashman]

Hehe, Mushkin replaced BH5 with BH6, that's right you can buy PC3500 now that's made using PC2700 chips.

 

[stickybytes]

Originally posted by: computer
I've had two 800-E Deluxe's (Rev. 1.2 & 2) and two retail 2.4C w/retail HSF units and never had the problem. I heard this was only with the retail HSF unit. It doesn't screw into anything, it uses retention clips.

Im confused. Did you use the retail intel heatsink? and you never experienced any problems?

 

[computer]

Im confused. Did you use the retail intel heatsink? and you never experienced any problems?

Yes, the stock retail HSF unit in both instances and they worked fine. I never personally knew of anyone with the problem, but I did read about it on another forum. Apparently it's not with all retail HSF units.

 

[ItsMillerTime]

stickybytes, my rev 2.00 board has the same problem; I'm using a sp-94 now.

computer, I'm thinking about rma-ing my Costa Rican POS, err, I mean P4 processor. I had it running Memtest with no errors at 245fsb, 1:1, 66/33, 2.5-3-3-7-8, vcore=1.5625v, vdimm=2.75v, agp=1.6v, PAM enabled, Turbo mode. Then I increased FSB to 246 and started getting errors and hangs. Now it won't boot at any settings and I have to clear the CMOS to get into BIOS. When I exit BIOS, it's back to: no boot, shutdown, clear cmos, run setup, exit, and...
I even tried at 200fsb with same results.
Just wondering about the reason you gave Intel for the rma.

Anyone have any suggestions on how to revive the cpu? I think it got exposed to SNDS

BTW, it's the 2.8c and I'm using ocz pc3700 gold (rev2).

 

[computer]

What makes you think it's the CPU and not the memory?

Well, my first setup was possessed, nothing worked correctly. So, I RMA'd everything...mobo, CPU & memory. I told Intel the mobo would not boot sometimes, sometimes it would boot at DEFAULT speeds and actually say "CPU overclocking failed", plus got MemTest errors. All of that was true, but as far as the MemTest errors my RAM could have been doing that. I told Geil my RAM (PC4000) would not work over DDR500, its rated speed. Plus, got MemTest errors. So both really were not "up to par" but I can't say exactly which was causing the MemTest (and WMD program) errors. I had to RMA the mobo due to all fan headers failing. I only got about 250mhz bus out of it (3ghz). I lucked out and got a Malay CPU (I asked for it, but don't know if that's why or they just happened to pick a Malay out the bin). I asked Geil for a hand picked killer of a dual channel kit, and they delivered with some that will work at DDR562.

 

[computer]

I got mine figured out. I thought the problem might have been in the Raid controller, so I disconnected from it and hooked my drives to the regular IDE connector. It booted up and ran fine. I wanted to confirm it for sure, so rehooked up to the Raid controller and this time it also booted fine. The IDE Cable must not have been fully seated, even though it looked like it was. Now the CPU, Memory and Drive benchmarks are fine.

Ok.....so what are your benchmarks? ..............
And PUH-LEEZE post your results since I've been trying for days to get some comparisons. You should run Sandra 2004 since it would be more accurate for newer hardware.

 

[ItsMillerTime]

Can't say for sure; after the failed oc at 246, I started backing down on the fsb but got hangs instead of errors. Don't know if that makes a difference. From what I understand, the P4 wafer is pressed in Texas and shipped to several countries for manufacturing. The Malaysian version is known to have superior performance because of their tighter tolerances. Also, the dies are cut from the same wafer and are speed rated according to performance as you posted above.
I have a 2.4B in another pc that can be used for testing tommorow.
Thanks for the help.

 

[computer]

so would it be quicker to have the fastest DDR settings in BIOS and lower the FSB for stability or leave the SPD settings on Auto and have highest FSB being stable??

Muppet, Ok now I've had some sleep. I'm not exactly sure what you're asking. I think I see what you're asking....by "fastest DDR settings" you must mean memory timings. That's hard to answer since it depends on numerous factors and would depend on your specific hardware setup. One way may be faster for someone, and the other way may be faster for you. Sometimes SPD settings are not accurate, so a good starting point would be to manually set the memory timings to the RAM's specs. Most RAM won't run faster timings at o'clocked speeds. Some good RAM can run faster timings at default speeds and some really good RAM can run faster timings at OVERclocked speeds. You'll usually get more performance by running a higher FSB at default or slightly slower timings, that with a lower FSB and faster timings. IF the overclock is a decent jump.