*** Official Gigabyte P965-DS3 Thread ***

[tenax]

Originally posted by: Cheex
As for my situation now...I installed the IDE Drivers and now the Device Manager picks up my drives properly but I am still having a problem.

My NEC 3550A won't read any DVDs, only CDs....I don't understand that...Any ideas on what could be wrong and how to solve it??

Thanks in advance.

you installed drivers..or set to ide legacy? or both? i didn't have to install ANY drivers. windows did it all for me as long as the bios setting was right..could that be your problem? if not, then i'm out of solutions..sorry

 

[Cheex]

I did both. That fact that it won't read DVDs...could that have anything to do with the bios settings???

 

[tenax]

i'd uninstall any drivers you added..there's no reason to add any and that's the only reason i can think of why it would not do that..aside from something fubared in the nec itself. do you have latest firmware installed on the nec?

 

[tenax]

maybe as simple as the enclosed, cheet..get a can of compressed air to start

http://www.tek-tips.com/viewthread.cfm?qid=1290076&page=3

if you haven't, by the way..i'd:

-uninstall drivers.
-pull the power on the burner.
-reboot it completely without the burner in.
-then reconnect power, boot up and try again.

(obviously making sure the bios still has ide legacy enabled..it's my one small gripe with this board really that it can reset to default at the slightest thing..i.e. when i swapped my hard drives (imaged) it reverted to default..when i changed out dvd players..default.. at least i always get it to boot

 

[Cheex]

Firmware is version 1.06. That is the latest as far as I know (came with 1.05).

 

[Cheex]

I have just done a clean install of Windows and I am still having the same problem. I'm going to borrow a DVD-ROM drive from my father's PC and test it...Just to make sure that it is my burner that is causing the problem and not the rest of my setup.

I will keep you all posted on my progress with the matter.

 

[tenax]

good luck with that..i find burners to be kind of fragile compared to other components..maybe the laser got messed somehow in all this

 

[Cheex]

I installed my father's DVD-ROM drive and it works perfectly. So that means that my bios settings and the rest of my setup is okay.

Next is that I now need to order a new DVD-RW drive by Monday night. The dilemma now is, what to get?
IDE or just go to SATA now? I'm thinking SATA.

How is this one.

 

[ForeStorm]

I wonder - I had heard problems with SATA drives not being found. Didn't mention a board, though, although I wonder if it has to do with no way to select a master drive on SATA?

Meh.

Anyway, I ended up getting a Samsung IDE. Also had to buy a round IDE cable, since the flat ones are too...big. *shrugs*

Oh, about the problems with Speedfan - it reads my RPMs wrong, but it handles CPU_FAN and SYS_FAN just fine. That's the upper most and the one on the farthest right that's a four-pin. It doesn't want to control PWR_FAN or NB_FAN, but I'm sure that has something to do with the connectors on the motherboard being 3-pin instead of 4-pin and having 'native' PWM control. I've got my VF900Cu hooked up on the PWR_FAN (also with the fan controller with it), and it works great even on the lowest setting. (Idle at 47C, load at...51? I only saw it at 48C, though. Oh, stock.)

Oh, and about those RAM timings - I read somewhere (don't ask me where, though), that running the FSB and the RAM at 1:1 (or 1:2, rather, to get the individual stick as fast as the FSB) garnered performance increases. Somehow, I doubt it. My RAM's good for 4-4-4-12 @ DDR2 800 and 2.1v, yet I get to run it at DDR2 400 @ 3-3-3-5, 2.0v. I think It could actually do that at 1.9 or even stock 1.8v, actually. Would it be worth it to raise the ratio to get 4-4-4-12 as fast as I can? I think I'll be able to do 420 MHz on each stick or so at those timings. 333 @ 3-3-3-9 for sure, though. Then again, I could always do tests, but if others have already tested it for me...

 

[Cheex]

Originally posted by: Cheex
Can someone in the know, tell me what is going on here on this screenshot.

I need a breakdown, a play-by-play if you will...

Temp1: My video card tells me that the temp in my case is 42C, which verifies the Temp1 in SpeedFan. Also, that is the temp that i get from TAT for my CPU cores @ idle (which i don't think are right).

Temp2: This is the same reading I get for my CPU in my bios and with the Easy Tune 5 utility. This could never really be my CPU temp but what is it really?

Temp3: Maybe a faulty or non-existent sensor, I don't know what it is but if anyone does...please enlighten me.

HD0: This is my hard drive temp under some load and it is correct. Ranges from 28C-41C depending on load.

Core0/1: Is this saying that my CPU temp is 28C/29C ????? When I load the CPU, these temps go up to like 37C-39C under normal load and up to 45C under full load from TAT (which at this point shows me 59C). At idle, the 28C-29C is actually slightly higher than ambient in my room which is about 24C-26C with the A/C off.

Keep in mind that these temps are with my Tuniq Tower @ full speed.

 

[tenax]

well that's half the battle, leon! let me suggest the pioneer drive..the lite-on sucked with this motherboard. (sata) i have the pioneer since thursday and love it! and those bastids' at ncix.com put it on sale 2 days after i got it..i hear newegg doesn't have stock..(for those buying from us or canada)

 

[tenax]

Originally posted by: Cheex

Originally posted by: Cheex
Can someone in the know, tell me what is going on here on this screenshot.

I need a breakdown, a play-by-play if you will...

Temp1: My video card tells me that the temp in my case is 42C, which verifies the Temp1 in SpeedFan. Also, that is the temp that i get from TAT for my CPU cores @ idle (which i don't think are right).

Temp2: This is the same reading I get for my CPU in my bios and with the Easy Tune 5 utility. This could never really be my CPU temp but what is it really?

Temp3: Maybe a faulty or non-existent sensor, I don't know what it is but if anyone does...please enlighten me.

HD0: This is my hard drive temp under some load and it is correct. Ranges from 28C-41C depending on load.

Core0/1: Is this saying that my CPU temp is 28C/29C ????? When I load the CPU, these temps go up to like 37C-39C under normal load and up to 45C under full load from TAT (which at this point shows me 59C). At idle, the 28C-29C is actually slightly higher than ambient in my room which is about 24C-26C with the A/C off.

Keep in mind that these temps are with my Tuniq Tower @ full speed.

i doubt those temps are correct...my bios and easy tune say 38C...TAT says 48 to 49 on the cores (overclocked heavily) with a TT typhoon with fan control enabled. i would expect your tuniq at full speed to cool better than my typhoon with speed control on it...i'm more likely to believe tat...at full load, my tat goes up to about 60 on each cpu..i'm not concerned..80+..then i'll be concerned

 

[Cheex]

So are you saying that I should believe TAT instead of SpeedFan??

The Core0 and Core1 temps from SpeedFan seem more accurate to me based on the temperature in my room. So...

TAT or SpeedFan (Core0/1) ????????

 

[tenax]

i'm saying i find it hard to believe my 2.13 speed e6400 overclocked to 3.3 is going to run at 38 degrees ...i'm also saying that you read time and time again that the bios temp should not be taken as accurate on mobos..and given that easytune matches the bios, it may just be duplicating the same mistake. i could be wrong..i don't know for certain..just better to trust tat cause it's higher in my opinion in the event your processor is getting too hot..call it being on the safe side

 

[Cheex]

In that regard, I think it makes sense to trust Intel TAT then.

 

[dirtbiker5418]

I've been looking around the net on reviews of the DS3 and they all praise it and say its one of the best motherboards out there. But then again thats what everyone else says about my P5B deluxe thats been giving me problems. I think i am going to RMA my motherboard and either keep the RMA mobo and use it, or sell it and buy a DS3. My question is, what do you guys think i should do? Is the DS3 really as good a board as everyone says it is, or was i just unlucky and got a faulty P5B Deluxe and should keep the mobo Asus sends back to me?

Thanks in advance.

 

[tenax]

i haven't had the asus, but i have had asus boards on and off for a long time. i gave up on asus when i had a really finicky a64 asus board (i bought an msi after the rma). read good things about both. i love the ds3...it's a touch finicky but nothing that bothers me much. i like how even with playing with high overclocking, i've never had to touch the jumper or pull the battery..shut off the power and reboot to default. i also like how you can save a number of bios profiles especially if you want to overclock

 

[htne]

Originally posted by: tenax
well that's half the battle, leon! let me suggest the pioneer drive..the lite-on sucked with this motherboard. (sata) i have the pioneer since thursday and love it! and those bastids' at ncix.com put it on sale 2 days after i got it..i hear newegg doesn't have stock..(for those buying from us or canada)

I have a Pioneer 212 SATA and a Liteon 20A1S SATA hooked up to my DS3. The Pioneer is a slightly better burner, but I need the Liteon to run disc quality tests under CDSpeed. I used to have a Liteon 16A7S SATA, which also worked well, but was replaced by the 20A1S. Both of the SATA burners are connected to the Jmicron SATA ports.

 

[tenax]

i bought the 16as7 originally for this board and had nothing but issues with it relative to overclocking (had to relax timings for it to play nice) i was running it, as i am the pioneer now, on the regular sata ports and the pioneer is working great. i also found the tray quality of the lite-on to be pretty brutal..noise drive motor, the tray felt flimsy and had disc centering problems. i gave it to my son for his box and bought the pioneer

 

[EXman]

Hey Guys I have an Issue you'll might help me with EASY.

I have no sound at all it will not find the onboard sound...???
It will not see it and if I look deep into the sound settings my computer will only see my dvd drive as a scsi device.

I have read alot of this thread but I do not see the same problem yet.

anyone else have an Idea?

running XP not vista

 

[tenax]

i assume you have the onboard sound enabled (azalia or whatever it is called) i have read a few threads about sound issues..i'll try to find it and give you a link..but i recall something about getting the latest realtek sound drivers..have you tried the latest on the gigabyte website or just ones on cd? in terms of the dvd drive reading as an scsi, my prior experience says to me that you've put the dvd drive on the jmicron (purple) connector which causes it to be read as a non ide device..whether sata or ide, you can set the drive options as legacy ide so they are seen as ide (see early post from cheeta a few threads back) and use the orange sata ports. the only reason i see to use the purple is if you are going with raid on your hard drives...or your orange sata ports are full up otherwise. you should not have to install any drivers with winxp when using the orange ports. any dvd burner and ide or sata hard drive will be detected and windows native drivers will take care of business and sata drives will simply look like ide devices. (with no performance loss)

 

[Cheex]

In that case, I guess I could go ahead and buy a SATA DVD-RW drive to replace mine that died. I buy from Newegg, so it will be either the Samsung or the ASUS. Could anyone say which is better????


PS @ tenax: Stop messing up my name...

 

[tenax]

i'd go with the samsung..(what i would have bought if they had been available where i buy) first, i've read good reports about it. 2nd...the asus drive is reported to be pretty good, but it's simply a rebranded for asus drive made by someone else..i believe lg or lite-on. it maybe my current "hate-on for lite-on" shining through..if it was indeed made by lg i'd probably consider. safe bet is sammy i think, though.

sorry about the name chax..i mean, cheex

 

[Cheex]

Originally posted by: tenax
i'd go with the samsung..(what i would have bought if they had been available where i buy) first, i've read good reports about it. 2nd...the asus drive is reported to be pretty good, but it's simply a rebranded for asus drive made by someone else..i believe lg or lite-on. it maybe my current "hate-on for lite-on" shining through..if it was indeed made by lg i'd probably consider. safe bet is sammy i think, though.

sorry about the name chax..i mean, cheex

Okay thanx for the info. I think I'll go with the Samsung then.
Two more questions though. Did you have any problems with your SATA DVD-RW drive on the DS3 (installing it or otherwise)? Also, which SATA port did you use for your burner?

 

[EXman]

Originally posted by: tenax
i assume you have the onboard sound enabled (azalia or whatever it is called) i have read a few threads about sound issues..i'll try to find it and give you a link..but i recall something about getting the latest realtek sound drivers..have you tried the latest on the gigabyte website or just ones on cd? in terms of the dvd drive reading as an scsi, my prior experience says to me that you've put the dvd drive on the jmicron (purple) connector which causes it to be read as a non ide device..whether sata or ide, you can set the drive options as legacy ide so they are seen as ide (see early post from cheeta a few threads back) and use the orange sata ports. the only reason i see to use the purple is if you are going with raid on your hard drives...or your orange sata ports are full up otherwise. you should not have to install any drivers with winxp when using the orange ports. any dvd burner and ide or sata hard drive will be detected and windows native drivers will take care of business and sata drives will simply look like ide devices. (with no performance loss)

I have the drivers from the website yes those are downloaded for everything including the audio. You mean the sound enabled on the BIOS? I'll check that but I think I already did that... Just checked and it is set to AUTO so it is in good shape there.

the DVD drive I am having no problems with the drive is a PATA and not on the sata headers. I just mentioned that because it was the only piece of hardware that turned up as a possible device to add drivers for when trying to add the AUDIO under add hardware.