*** Official Gigabyte P965-DS3 Thread ***

[TRD3SGTE]

Originally posted by: petros
I have this machine:

Intel Core 2 Duo E6600 - 2.400GHZ
Gigabyte 965P DS3P rev. 2 Bios F4
2x512 Kingston KVR800D2N5/512
VGA Gigabyte 7600 GS 256MB PCI Express
1xWestern Digital SATA 250GB 7200RPM 16MB Buffer
Plextor 708A DVDRW 8x
19" EIZO 768

Can anyone give me a stable setup to overclocked it ?? (Memory+CPu settings in bios)

Thanks in advance....

First : update your BIOS to F10
Then set your FSB to 450, cpu voltage to 1.28, memory voltage to 2.0 and leave the rest at stock.
3.150GHz should be enough =)

450 FSB

 

[yiranhu]

Originally posted by: TRD3SGTE
First : update your BIOS to F10
Then set your FSB to 450, cpu voltage to 1.28, memory voltage to 2.0 and leave the rest at stock.
3.150GHz should be enough =)

450 FSB

I'm not sure about 450. Your processor will work at that voltage but your ram may not. My DDR800 ram (gskills - not D9) will not boot at 450. I would suggest the starting point of 350 with the settings suggested and then go up from there 25 MHz at a time.

 

[JJordan]

I got my DS3 Rev 3.3 up and running. Added arctic cooling Freezer 7 Pro to the E4300 CPU. Under load, temp is 50-55 degres C. Resting is low 20's. Does that sound "cool enough".

All seems stable. Ran memtest - no erros (Corsair Cas 5 PC800 - 2 gig).

Couple of attempts at overclocking and things seem to lock up but I am not increasing voltages and do nto think I am doing it right. I need to figure it out and try to run up to a good stable speed and let it run a while. Is it okay to use the easy tune to overclock this board or should I use the BIOS. Easy Tune says the CPU voltage is 1.31 by the way.

 

[ThePiston]

How could the crappy design of this board contribute to my losing $250? Read on:

I had my PC at 3.2 easily for days, playing games, surfing, etc. I got my TT120, HR-05 and Zalman VF900 for my 9700GT. I tried to boot with some higher settings but I went into an endless loop. I had to reset the CMOS multiple times ( which with this shi!ttyy board means removing your video card) and the last time I forgot to re-plug in my fan to my VF900 - yeah, 30 mins later and I smell something burning - my 9700GT is dead not to mention the Zalman VF900 is all messed up because the solder points all melted. Getting sick of this board. You can boot one day into an OC just fine and the next it doesn't. They put the CMOS jumper in the dumbest possible place. I'm selling this board in disgust... what else is out there.

 

[MikeyLSU]

I'm building my new comptuer tomorrow.

I am getting this mobo with the E4300. I alredy own a Thermalright SLK-900-A Cooling Fan/Heatsink, which is for my AMD 2500+M...is there any chance this heatsink will work with my new setup.

Will it, or are all heatsinks designed for that specifit chipset? in my case the 939.

 

[Phoenix97]

I would like to get this board, but I don't want to do any major overclocking with it. Here's what I'm looking to use with it:

Generic DDR2 667 (2X1GB)
E4300
Adaptec 39160 (PCI)
Sil0680-based PCI IDE controller
Audigy-Series sound card (PCI)
Some 7600-series PCI-E graphics card
Many hard drives and optical drives

I'd be satisfied with something along the lines of 2.4-2.6 GHz with stock cooling, memory at 1:1 with nice latencies. Sound doable at all?
I've heard numerous reports of people just having memory-related problems with C2D compatible boards. Is it more of an issue with higher-end memory needing higher voltages to operate or would generic memory have problems too?

 

[Cheezeit]

Originally posted by: Phoenix97
I would like to get this board, but I don't want to do any major overclocking with it. Here's what I'm looking to use with it:

Generic DDR2 667 (2X1GB)
E4300
Adaptec 39160 (PCI)
Sil0680-based PCI IDE controller
Audigy-Series sound card (PCI)
Some 7600-series PCI-E graphics card
Many hard drives and optical drives

I'd be satisfied with something along the lines of 2.4-2.6 GHz with stock cooling, memory at 1:1 with nice latencies. Sound doable at all?
I've heard numerous reports of people just having memory-related problems with C2D compatible boards. Is it more of an issue with higher-end memory needing higher voltages to operate or would generic memory have problems too?

2.4-2.6ghz should be no problem at all. I guess you have a stock cooler so anything higher would run some high temps.
As for the problems with memory, its the issue of the first boot. Sometimes ram that needs to run at higher voltages like 2.1v cannot boot at 1.8, which is stock. Therefor you would not be able to boot your system unless you take some ram that can run at 1.8, stick it in to set the bios to give 2.1, then change back to your 2.1 ram.
Your memory should have no problems, I doubt it will need 2.1v.

 

[petebert]

are your guy's temps in easytune way off compared to coretemps? I've got my E6400 at 3.2ghz, easytune says 28c which is actually less then the case temp of 34c. maybe the numbers are reversed? coretemp says I'm at 44c

 

[StopSign]

Originally posted by: JJordan
I got my DS3 Rev 3.3 up and running. Added arctic cooling Freezer 7 Pro to the E4300 CPU. Under load, temp is 50-55 degres C. Resting is low 20's. Does that sound "cool enough".

Where are these numbers from? They seem too low.

 

[JJordan]

These temps are from Easy Tune .... Is there another place I shoudl be checking?

Also, why would CPU-z say my e4200 is running at 6x x 200 = 1.2 GHz when in bios I am set at 9x and 200 FSB and Easy Tune shows 9x and shows running at 1.8.......

 

[StopSign]

Don't trust CPU-Z.

And get your temperatures from CoreTemp or Intel TAT. EasyTune is always off. Your load temperature looks about right but your idle is way too low. There shouldn't be a 30 degree difference between idle and load.

 

[JJordan]

OUCH - Temps with TAT from Intel with no overclocking:
Resting 40
Full Load after 5 minutes hovers around 70-75.

So I must not have a good connection with my cooler ... These are way high under load aren't they?

 

[NeighborhoodSniper]

Hello All. Long time lurker first time poster.

In my sig are the specs of my system and just about all the performance I can wring out of it. Voltages just don't seem to matter. I can get FSB 349 stable with the voltages below but... That's really hardly worth doing. Is this the infamous FSB wall that does or doesn't exist?

I've tried pushing my voltages as such to no real avail:
CPU 1.42v
DDR2 2.1v (+0.3)
PCI-E +0.1
FSB +0.3
GMCH +0.2
No hardware mods

Any suggestions? Maybe I should be happy with a 58% cpu overclock but I have that creeping terror... Forum envy.

In other news getting the JMicron RAID (and my IDE optical drives at the same time) to work was quite a killjoy. I ended up rolling my own XP install disk with nLite, giving it the XP jmicron driver (the 1.17.* from the support website, not the cd) and all the textmode drivers for all the various jmicron models. It simply wouldn't accept my F6 -> floppy and I'm sure that the floppy drive and disks work flawlessly. It may be because it's using the Jmicron controller for IDE as well and trips over it's own self thinking it already has what it needs but doesn't when windows boots for the first time? Unsure... but that took an evening. I highly reccommend feeding nLite every driver you need. That way you won't be without them once windows is installed and there are a dozen exclamaation points in Device Manager and you have no way to update drivers with IDE cdroms, network, and usb offline. I just wasn't up for zip floppies or ppp over serial to beam those in.

This thread has really helped me. Thank you all.

 

[StopSign]

Originally posted by: JJordan
OUCH - Temps with TAT from Intel with no overclocking:
Resting 40
Full Load after 5 minutes hovers around 70-75.

So I must not have a good connection with my cooler ... These are way high under load aren't they?

Try reseating the heatsink. Something is definitely wrong here.

 

[JJordan]

I had trouble getting the clips/pins to work to hold the cooler in place. I think I need new "clips" to attach the heat sink on my Arctic Cooler. They look similar to the ones used by Intel on the retail version. Anyone have any idea where you can buy these? Arctic Cooling's web site gives no information I could find.

Also, here is a link to some information on heat that I cannot say I understand but am pretty sure tells me 75 degrees C is way too hot......Core 2 Duo Temp

I am completely unable to overclock my system. When I increase the BUS speed and try to boot I get a blank screen - no memory beep (or other beep) at all and nothing happens. When I save BIOS and exit screen goes blank and that is it. Have to remove my video card and take out battery. I am really doing something wrong.

 

[NeighborhoodSniper]

Originally posted by: JJordan
Also, here is a link to some information on heat that I cannot say I understand but am pretty sure tells me 75 degrees C is way too hot......Core 2 Duo Temp

I am completely unable to overclock my system. When I increase the BUS speed and try to boot I get a blank screen - no memory beep (or other beep) at all and nothing happens. When I save BIOS and exit screen goes blank and that is it. Have to remove my video card and take out battery. I am really doing something wrong.

75deg C is way too hot. Thermal throttling should be kicking in at that point which is what you don't want.

I'd try the following things if you haven't already:

0. Set the Memory speed from Auto to "2". On Auto it picks some insane divider (only when you manually set the FSB speed) that just won't work. That way your ram will be running in spec.
1. Set PCI-E bus frequency to 100 (default PCI-E speed) instead of Auto
2. Disable USB legacy support and use a ps/2 mouse and keyboard for testing.
3. leave ram and system voltages at auto.

If that doesnt' work overclocking (which may be the problem because of insane heat you're getting) try underclocking. If you can't underclock some settings are a no go. Drop your CPU multiplier down by one. That and maybe you can get your temperatures down until you can get some better cooling on your CPU. I don't claim to know what will burn up your cpu or not but I'm assuming Intel decided to throttle the CPU back for a reason right around there.

Instead of unseating your video card all the time to get at the battery, use the reset pins right next to it. What I did was take an old fan, cut off the fan part and keep the wire and cable header and plug it into the reset pins and reseat your video card on top of it. When you want to reset your bios just power it up and touch the wires together. When done resetting, keep them apart or put electrical tape over the wire. Much easier.

 

[petebert]

the general rule I see is to not go above 60c

 

[StopSign]

Originally posted by: NeighborhoodSniper
Instead of unseating your video card all the time to get at the battery, use the reset pins right next to it. What I did was take an old fan, cut off the fan part and keep the wire and cable header and plug it into the reset pins and reseat your video card on top of it. When you want to reset your bios just power it up and touch the wires together. When done resetting, keep them apart or put electrical tape over the wire. Much easier.

Or you can just put your finger on the jumper pins for a few seconds. Your body conducts electricity even if it's an extremely low voltage and current.

 

[NeighborhoodSniper]

That's a good idea. I can't get my fat finger anywhere near the pins though. The 8800 covers it up fairly throughly. With the wire I don't even need the lid off the case. I suppose the hardcore OC guys just have that attached that to the momentary sys reset button instead.

 

[JJordan]

I pulled of the cooler - cleaned it up - pretty sure I had too much goop on it. Put it back with good clips - NOW - With TAT
Resting 39 degrees C
Under full load with TAT for 60+ minutes - runs 59 - 61 degrees C.

 

[Cheex]

Is the DS3 listed on Newegg the 3.3 version?

 

[MikeyLSU]

ok, my CPU temps at stock cooling and settings are higher than I would like(41c idle) I see people have been turning off the auto settings for the CPU fan and I guess just get it to run full all the time. How do you do this? What setting does this and is there anything else I can do to help my problem.

I'm running the E4300 stock HS/Fan. It came with the thermal tape already on it so I didn't do any of that.

 

[StopSign]

Originally posted by: JJordan
I pulled of the cooler - cleaned it up - pretty sure I had too much goop on it. Put it back with good clips - NOW - With TAT
Resting 39 degrees C
Under full load with TAT for 60+ minutes - runs 59 - 61 degrees C.

Your idle temp still seems a bit high. The Freezer 7 Pro is fairly quiet (I use it too) so if you haven't done so already, go in the bios and disable fan control. This lets it spin at full speed all the time.

 

[cullbo]

I've been having some problems booting my new P965-S3 system (which is almost the same as DS3 from what I've heard)

Often it just doesn't boot at all, it's like the system doesn't get a boot signal at all. First I thought my power button was broke because my case is quite old. But then if I wait a while and try again it boots for 1 sec, powers down and then boots itself back up after a few seconds.

The motherboard shipped with bios F6 and I've also tried the new F8 but that doesn't fix it.

Any suggestions would be much appreciated.

- - -

Other specs on my machine:

400W PSU
Core 2 E6300 at default fsb with standard hsf
Corsair XMS2 CM2X512-5400C4 running 333Mhz 5-5-5-15
nv 7600GS silent 256M

CPU temps seem decent for the poor cooling I have atm. with TAT they top at 41° idle and I believe 64° with 100% load on both cores.

 

[zigner]

I just put together a DS3 rev 3.3 with a E4300 running Vista. When I shut down, the screen looks normal, goes to blank as it should at the end of shutdown, the hard drive stops spinning, but the power light and fan stays on. I have to hold the power button for a few seconds to force it to totally power off. Any idea as to why this is happening?