Oil change question...

[7window]

evil walmart

 

[WilliamM2]

Levis bought at walmart have a lower thread count than real Levis. Just sayin'.

They also have a lower price, and a different model designation, Levi's "Signature" series. They don't hide the fact that they are different, you can also get them at Kmart and other retailers, last I knew.

Regardless of all that, other than someone letting their engine run out of oil, when was the last time you saw an oil related engine failure?

I ran Mobil1 in my ZX11, even though I knew it was probably a waste of money, it only needed one change a year, and only 4 quarts. But always ran the cheapest oil I could get in my 1998 Mazda Protege and 2000 Ford Contour V6, since they would need to be changed 2-3 times a year. Everything from Shell, Advanced Auto brand, National, whatever. I'd even mix brands if it was all I had on hand. Bought both new, and sold both last year, never had any issues, and neither burned any oil at all. I think changing it at the required intervals is more important than the brand.

Now I just use whatever synthetic the dealer puts in for our 2 Camry's. I don't worry about the brand, although last time they claimed it was Honda oil (it's a Honda dealer). I don't drive much anymore, so I like the longer intervals between changes, and don't bother changing my own.

 

[jolancer]

I never made the claim that walmart oils were "watered down".

Furthermore, I guess if I must provide a link and if it isn't on the internet it must not be true. Fair enough, it isn't true then. You win and i'll bow out in defeat.
EDIT: I'll leave this here.

lol this is how i feel its like arguing with kindergardeners, perhaps thats why thy are comfortable buying things from walmart other than non-important crap.

I'm really not going to write an essay and teach the op about mechanics... unless he pays me. but I'll leave these obvious responses b4 quiting this board aswell.. i appoligize before hand there is way too much garbage posted to respond to everything... again unless you pay me

Now that is funny stuff... Like to hear how you can explain this about GM engines (for sure about V6 Vs 4cyl and stress)...? Only thing that cost me is the time to catch the sample of oil nothing more, my company does it for free and I'm to guess your one of those that believes you must pay through the nose to get the best...? Did you even read the link provided...? 5W-30 oil comparisons Might want to do some comparing then look at the bottom line... We have and oil analysis does not lie because it is real world numbers not just a website or hearsay...

Damn 30+ years as a mechanic and work on $200K+ machines for a living and guess I know nothing about oil...? "nothing personal" D:

30yrs ago, GM was "efficent" because there was little or no non-domestic brands to compair them to

that link left no spot on the chart for the amount of peanut or corn oil found in SuperTech.

That's absolutely insane, do you think these companies spend millions on R+D, marketing, then have different versions of their product for different stores? I guess the Cap'n Crunch sold at Walmart probably has less crunch-berries than the boxes sold at Kroger..

you actually hit the nail on the head. its common though to not notice, most people don't have a reason to.

Wow, you automotive knowledge is so lacking I don't know where to begin..first off a GM pushrod V6 3.5L only makes 200HP, 3.5L sized V6's from Nissan, Honda, Toyota were making 250+HP way back in the early 2000's, this is because they were twin-cam four valve per cylinder design's, GM in 2008 finally went that route with the re-design of the Malibu and upgraded the V6 to a modern one with 255HP. There's a trade-off involved, I get very good MPG with my "old-school" engine with it's simple, cool-running design, on the flip side 50-60 more HP is quite noticeable in a mid-sized sedan and HP sells cars. Secondly one can't "water-down" motor oil, water and oil don't mix too well LOL. Go ahead and shop for your Pennsoil at Sears, Target, Auto-zone but IT'S THE EXACT SAME PRODUCT THAT IS ON THE SHELF AT WALMART! anyone suggesting because they pay crappy wages means they sell "watered-down" name-brand oil is just nuts..

more valves + no push rods = higher accuracy/timing/less friction/better in almost every way. compairing GM to GM.. before the bailout is like compairing GeorgeBush senior to George Jr. ,After the bailout perhaps not quite as bad, but i cant give credit to Billionaire CEO's asking for handouts like a crackhead on wellfair, then making design changes only because they sucked the gov's giant pole so they wouldn't need to spend any of there vaycay bonus.

Higher hp if done right means higher efficency. theres a lot of variable that affect hp and mpg.. not even touching the engine and redesigning the tranny can affect mpg. there's lots of possabilities of why GM consistantly failed but it can be summed up with 'incompetence'.

This doesn't make sense. Just for a company doing such business would be a distribution nightmare and not to mention lawsuit that will follow if somehow the oil was accidentally shipped to other distributor. Furthermore the brand that is at walmart should be label as walmart additive. When you compare two container they are identical parts store vs walmart.

There are different part numbers or codes on products sent to such stores as walmart... next time your randomely at the store, check it out, take a pic with your phone of an items product code off the item container and compare it to one from a different retailer you end up at.

back it up.

LOL im not your mother

If I own the company I will make sure it is the same. I don't care who is packaging it.

Like the other poster say if you make that claim please provide link

There are more transparencies now the way businesses are run. So the old ways of running a business will not work unless you are in china. Even that is changing

i don't see a link? LOL

 

[BUTCH1]

lol this is how i feel its like arguing with kindergardeners, perhaps thats why thy are comfortable buying things from walmart other than non-important crap.

I'm really not going to write an essay and teach the op about mechanics... unless he pays me. but I'll leave these obvious responses b4 quiting this board aswell.. i appoligize before hand there is way too much garbage posted to respond to everything... again unless you pay me



30yrs ago, GM was "efficent" because there was little or no non-domestic brands to compair them to

that link left no spot on the chart for the amount of peanut or corn oil found in SuperTech.



you actually hit the nail on the head. its common though to not notice, most people don't have a reason to.


more valves + no push rods = higher accuracy/timing/less friction/better in almost every way. compairing GM to GM.. before the bailout is like compairing GeorgeBush senior to George Jr. ,After the bailout perhaps not quite as bad, but i cant give credit to Billionaire CEO's asking for handouts like a crackhead on wellfair, then making design changes only because they sucked the gov's giant pole so they wouldn't need to spend any of there vaycay bonus.

Higher hp if done right means higher efficency. theres a lot of variable that affect hp and mpg.. not even touching the engine and redesigning the tranny can affect mpg. there's lots of possabilities of why GM consistantly failed but it can be summed up with 'incompetence'.



There are different part numbers or codes on products sent to such stores as walmart... next time your randomely at the store, check it out, take a pic with your phone of an items product code off the item container and compare it to one from a different retailer you end up at.



LOL im not your mother



i don't see a link? LOL

More HP usually results in lower MPG but the HP sells and your wrong, a pushrod, 2 valve per cylinder engine is a much simpler design and much easier on the oil, that's why newer model cars are spec'ed to use synthetic only in many cases. Tell you what, go buy a quart of Castrol GTX at Walmart and go buy one at Sears or autozone and send them off for analysis, I'd bet you any amount you'd care to wager they would come back EXACTLY the same..

 

[Bartman39]

that link left no spot on the chart for the amount of peanut or corn oil found in SuperTech.

If that is the case then I guess I will start using it to fry my french fries in it...

But the oil analysis would see this if it were true... (comes under "foreign matter" and viscosity index)

And I doubt you could teach me mechanics but not to say I could not learn something new as I do every day... But did notice that yes you have responded to everyone but in the text of "b4 quitting this board"

Gillbot... Take note your link has one state mentioned at the bottom and I will leave it at that...:sneaky:

 

[Gillbot]

If that is the case then I guess I will start using it to fry my french fries in it...

But the oil analysis would see this if it were true... (comes under "foreign matter" and viscosity index)

And I doubt you could teach me mechanics but not to say I could not learn something new as I do every day... But did notice that yes you have responded to everyone but in the text of "b4 quitting this board"

Gillbot... Take note your link has one state mentioned at the bottom and I will leave it at that...:sneaky:

Wikipedia Privacy Policy?

 

[Bartman39]

Wikipedia Privacy Policy?

This is the crap that keeps lawyers rich...D::biggrin:

 

[jolancer]

More HP usually results in lower MPG but the HP sells and your wrong, a pushrod, 2 valve per cylinder engine is a much simpler design and much easier on the oil, that's why newer model cars are spec'ed to use synthetic only in many cases. Tell you what, go buy a quart of Castrol GTX at Walmart and go buy one at Sears or autozone and send them off for analysis, I'd bet you any amount you'd care to wager they would come back EXACTLY the same..

your making a lot of non scientific assumptions. i never said because the double over head is more efficent a 250hp double over head would get better mpg... if you compair apples to apples, a 250hp push rod will get worse gas millage than a 250hp double overhead. Besides you were comparing GM to GM, the 250hp Toyota/Honda's get better mpg than your 200hp GM. Synthetic recomendations on newer engines has nothing to do with double overhead, those have been around for a long time, its probably more to do with the tighter tolorances and government deadlines on mpg requirments.

If that is the case then I guess I will start using it to fry my french fries in it...

But the oil analysis would see this if it were true... (comes under "foreign matter" and viscosity index)

if the analysis process is as accurate as a doctors analysis for example.. i wouldn't bet any money on it, they may only be searching for a set criteria and may not find stuff if no one put it on there list to search for it.

And I doubt you could teach me mechanics but not to say I could not learn something new as I do every day... But did notice that yes you have responded to everyone but in the text of "b4 quitting this board"

when did you become the OP of this thread? and yes i should and will quit the board, its loose loose like a s hit fight with a chimpanzee

EDIT: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YvxNgdFeWqM

 

[WilliamM2]

I'm really not going to write an essay and teach the op about mechanics... unless he pays me.

With the complete lack of knowledge you've shown here, I doubt anyone would pay you a dime.

LOL im not your mother

Obviously, she knows quite a bit more about this subject than you do.

 

[BUTCH1]

your making a lot of non scientific assumptions. i never said because the double over head is more efficent a 250hp double over head would get better mpg... if you compair apples to apples, a 250hp push rod will get worse gas millage than a 250hp double overhead. Besides you were comparing GM to GM, the 250hp Toyota/Honda's get better mpg than your 200hp GM. Synthetic recomendations on newer engines has nothing to do with double overhead, those have been around for a long time, its probably more to do with the tighter tolorances and government deadlines on mpg requirments.

if the analysis process is as accurate as a doctors analysis for example.. i wouldn't bet any money on it, they may only be searching for a set criteria and may not find stuff if no one put it on there list to search for it.



when did you become the OP of this thread? and yes i should and will quit the board, its loose loose like a s hit fight with a chimpanzee

EDIT: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YvxNgdFeWqM

Sorry, wrong again I get 23.5 city, 32-33 hwy, the newer model V6 Malibu only manages 18mpg/city and it has a much better transmission than my obsolete 4-speed. Thing is most people won't care about the difference in MPG, a Honda V6 Accord or Toyota V6 Camry is a full second or more better than my older model in 0-60 times. Simple truth is if you make more power you usually use more fuel, a 4 valve/cylinder double OHC engine "breathes" much better than my older engine can so it uses more fuel. Also pushrod engines tend to give max torque at lower RPM, mine reaches max@ 3K which means it can shift into a higher gear faster, increasing economy.

 

[nerp]

Compair. Welfair. LOL. in b4 lockz.

 

[jolancer]

Sorry, wrong again I get 23.5 city, 32-33 hwy, the newer model V6 Malibu only manages 18mpg/city and it has a much better transmission than my obsolete 4-speed. Thing is most people won't care about the difference in MPG, a Honda V6 Accord or Toyota V6 Camry is a full second or more better than my older model in 0-60 times. Simple truth is if you make more power you usually use more fuel, a 4 valve/cylinder double OHC engine "breathes" much better than my older engine can so it uses more fuel. Also pushrod engines tend to give max torque at lower RPM, mine reaches max@ 3K which means it can shift into a higher gear faster, increasing economy.

wow cool car. must be some dam government conspiracy, thats why you don't see many of them around anymore, if you put a carburator on it and get a magneto coil, remove the ECU, maybe you could lower your horse power up to 100, put a set of four wheel drum brakes and you'l be getting ~50mpg... oh wait i did the math wrong, (324mi per tank) / (18gal tank) X (3.5L engine) = 63mpg!!!!! dude.... to bad all kids care about these days is speed speed and bath salts... if you do it right your car will be good till what? 01/23/2116 ....right on bro, your great great grand kids will be so lucky when they inherit it, as long as there not obsessed with dam Speed... heroin is where its at right bro

 

[Bartman39]

wow cool car. must be some dam government conspiracy, thats why you don't see many of them around anymore, if you put a carburator on it and get a magneto coil, remove the ECU, maybe you could lower your horse power up to 100, put a set of four wheel drum brakes and you'l be getting ~50mpg... oh wait i did the math wrong, (324mi per tank) / (18gal tank) X (3.5L engine) = 63mpg!!!!! dude.... to bad all kids care about these days is speed speed and bath salts... if you do it right your car will be good till what? 01/23/2116 ....right on bro, your great great grand kids will be so lucky when they inherit it, as long as there not obsessed with dam Speed... heroin is where its at right bro

jolancer... Would be a good idea to keep this thread on track and not let it spiral down with this sort of useless crap... Differences of opinions are fine but off the deep end nonsense is a reserved for a different section...

 

[BUTCH1]

wow cool car. must be some dam government conspiracy, thats why you don't see many of them around anymore, if you put a carburator on it and get a magneto coil, remove the ECU, maybe you could lower your horse power up to 100, put a set of four wheel drum brakes and you'l be getting ~50mpg... oh wait i did the math wrong, (324mi per tank) / (18gal tank) X (3.5L engine) = 63mpg!!!!! dude.... to bad all kids care about these days is speed speed and bath salts... if you do it right your car will be good till what? 01/23/2116 ....right on bro, your great great grand kids will be so lucky when they inherit it, as long as there not obsessed with dam Speed... heroin is where its at right bro

Wow, someone's off their meds or do you always get this angry when you've made a complete fool of yourself?.

 

[grrl]

Is jolancer fleabag's second account?

 

[T2urtle]

Back on topic, i've done oil changes while letting the car sit and freshly warmish. Personally i think warm/hot is a better method but its whats easy for me.

Drive the car from work. Park it in a spot you can do the oil change. Go inside, eat/poop/change to garage clothing and come out and take care of the oil change. Sometimes i get lazy after eat/poop and do it in the morning. I've also had friends come over hot off the highway and done oil changes. All the same.

The whole battle of the oils, belongs on Bobistheoilguy.com

 

[Meghan54]

What I've learned from this thread:

Oil not purchased from a reputable auto parts dealer, such as NAPA, jobber-oriented parts wholesalers/retailers, or from new car dealers' parts departments sell oil that's probably "watered down" with vegetable oils---soybean/peanut/corn/canola/whatever.

Advance, Autozone, O'Reilley's, and every other auto parts dealer not mentioned above is not reputable, is not to be trusted in the quality/authenticity of their parts, and are in on this collusion to defraud the consumer.


And I lost untold numbers of brain cells reading some of this drivel.

 

[chucky2]

OP: Draining your old cold, while it's not going to cause any real issue due to the over-engineering of both engines and oils, isn't as good as draining the oil while hot. Years ago someone on BITOG posted a link to I think the Noria board where some study found that within 2 minutes of shutdown, particle separation in the oil starts to occur.

For the best results, draining the oil right after you shut down your engine is likely (I'm no tribologist) the best way to get all contaminants out of your engine.

Chuck

 

[SpatiallyAware]

I don't know about oil specifically, but historicalily walmart is known for selling lower quality name brand tires.

IE the walmart goodyear viva 2 is not the same goodyear viva 2 you would get from tirerack.com or discount tire.

There's no differentiation between the walmart style and the retail style. No markings, no way to know.



So yes, walmart does sell shitty products specifically catered to their bottom of the barrel quality and pricing. And I wouldn't be surprised if they did it with oil - especially the walmart supertech branded stuff.

 

[jolancer]

What I've learned from this thread:

Oil not purchased from a reputable auto parts dealer, such as NAPA, jobber-oriented parts wholesalers/retailers, or from new car dealers' parts departments sell oil that's probably "watered down" with vegetable oils---soybean/peanut/corn/canola/whatever.

Advance, Autozone, O'Reilley's, and every other auto parts dealer not mentioned above is not reputable, is not to be trusted in the quality/authenticity of their parts, and are in on this collusion to defraud the consumer.


And I lost untold numbers of brain cells reading some of this drivel.

If you havn't bought parts from all the different retailers randomly over the years it may seem strange... and it may differ in your region but stores here like Advanced and Autozone keep mostly there cheap brands on hand, granted they have others but i never bothered to have them order others and wait for it i just went somewere else. Im not particularly bashing there brand I used them in the past till the amount of failure and durability with there parts just seem too crappy and wasn't coincidence anymore, of course it maybe hit or miss with some makes, but i catagorize them know in the same realm of brand such as walmart, perhaps not as bad, but still not good catering to 'cheap' on the top of there priorities.

The knowledge and honesty of the people behind the parts counters at a reputable parts supplier and dealer also far surpasses average retailers, is a big benefit itself for the average person and even techs who maynot have experience that partiulare make or year's reliability. just my exerpience but what i noticed is the most reliable parts suppliers seem to be those that don't only sell to the public but also supply to the local shops.. so the majority of there buisness is probably from a health client base so they have no need to bullshit there walkin customers. In my region one of the most well known ones is Nu-way

 

[WilliamM2]

just my exerpience but what i noticed is the most reliable parts suppliers seem to be those that don't only sell to the public but also supply to the local shops.. so the majority of there buisness is probably from a health client base so they have no need to bullshit there walkin customers. In my region one of the most well known ones is Nu-way

So you are also totally unaware that Advanced Auto and Autozone sell a large amount of parts directly to local repair shops? Not surprising at all...

 

[jolancer]

any parts store can sell to anyone... In my region Advanced and Autozone must be struggling, or maybe its there buissness model, or maybe i just stay away from the ghetto part of town where there buissness clients reside, idk, eitherway there is a BIG difference between them in my region.

EDIT: I don't usually spend time thinkin about this stuff but now that i have, i'd also like to point out... and if this differs completely from where your at than feel free to point that out.. I haven't used Advanced and Autozone much lately but I've still been in and out of there stores couple random times throught the last couple years... but even long before that i recall they always had high employee turnover rates, just like bigbox stores.. every 6mon perhaps sooner and especially the next yr just about every employee would have turned over... the reputable parts suppliesers though and the dealer parts dep.. seems like the same guys have been there since i was in highschool. I know theres may not be an obvious coralation between employee turnover, the buisness, and there products. but its certainly not a good sign

Also just recalled, it was a while back but... i was at one of there local warehouses picking up a part because they didn't carry it on hand and was within driving distance of me so i didn't need to wait for them to order... anyhow the guy at the warehouse was telling me that they were looking for people and was trying to pitch the job to me, I didn't ask him or strike up the converstion at all, I think they just can't keep anyone working for them LoL

 

[Zorba]

I don't see how anyone could "damage" their vehicle with an oil change unless one forgot to put in the oil and started the engine or somehow stripped the drain plug. Walmart also carries many different brands, if you buy Castrol at Walmart it's the same Castrol as Pep boys or NAPA has. As for the quality see the link posted by Tortoise, turns out Super-tech is decent stuff after all, plenty fine enough for a GM 3.5L V6 which is not exactly the type of engine that will stress an oil very much.. :biggrin:

That may well be true but how it's distributed is irrelevant as to what's in the bottle, I refuse to believe Castrol sold at Walmart is inferior to Castrol sold at Advance auto.

Actually, the Castrol at Wal-Mart says it was bottled exclusively for Wal-mart, at least the 5-quart jugs. I used to always buy Castrol from Wal-Mart. Well one time I was giving both cars an oil change, filled the first car with one jug, then moved on to the second car. For some reason I smelled the bottle and it stunk of sulfur, just like a heavy gear oil. I researched online couldn't find anything about it, tried to call castrol but they were closed, called some O'rielly's who had an open jug and confirmed it didn't stink. I decided I didn't trust it, went andbought some from O'Rielly's that was just fine.

The next day I got ahold of Castrol, and they confirmed my lot had an "odor problem" and that it was 100% contained to oil sold at Wal-Mart. I.e. nobody else would take the oil that didn't meet 100% of all specs, including smell. Wal-Mart, however, was happy to have the discount. Ended up costing my $45 in wasted oil, because I just dumped it all.

I'm not saying there really was anything wrong with the oil, but I do know Wally was the only place that sold the problem oil, and I think that fits their SOP exactly. So I stopped buying oil from Wally.

Also there is a big difference between rubbermaid sold at Wally and say Lowe's that I think anyone could notice if they compared the two side by side.

 

[Gillbot]

Actually, the Castrol at Wal-Mart says it was bottled exclusively for Wal-mart, at least the 5-quart jugs. I used to always buy Castrol from Wal-Mart. Well one time I was giving both cars an oil change, filled the first car with one jug, then moved on to the second car. For some reason I smelled the bottle and it stunk of sulfur, just like a heavy gear oil. I researched online couldn't find anything about it, tried to call castrol but they were closed, called some O'rielly's who had an open jug and confirmed it didn't stink. I decided I didn't trust it, went andbought some from O'Rielly's that was just fine.

The next day I got a hold of Castrol, and they confirmed my lot had an "odor problem" and that it was 100% contained to oil sold at Wal-Mart. I.e. nobody else would take the oil that didn't meet 100% of all specs, including smell. Wal-Mart, however, was happy to have the discount. Ended up costing my $45 in wasted oil, because I just dumped it all.

Oh man, you just opened a can-o-worms here!

BUT BUT BUT if it says Castrol they ALL MUST BE THE SAME. I'm not saying Walmart oil is any better or worse, I just know for a fact they CAN be different. You have seen it yourself. :sneaky::thumbsup:

 

[7window]

not being sarcastic but i like this thread.