PC Lapping kit

[covert24]

any decent ones out there for cheap? or does anyone have one store that sells all the sandpaper grits i need? already have a piece of glass (my desk lol) so thats not needed.

 

[TVisitor]

I picked up the higher # grits at Autozone, they had a wide variety of sandpapers. I didn't bother with a kit (not sure what the kit would have; all I used was some 3 in 1 oil to keep things moving, a board with a piece of glass on it, and the sandpaper.) You can see my results here: http://s61.photobucket.com/alb...rmalright%20Ultra-120/

 

[covert24]

dam hats sexy. ill have to take a look at autozone. in what order did you use your grit?

 

[Elcs]

Originally posted by: covert24
any decent ones out there for cheap? or does anyone have one store that sells all the sandpaper grits i need? already have a piece of glass (my desk lol) so thats not needed.

Here. One stop PC Lapping Kit place.

The Premium Kit is excellent. I got mine with Glass and I have to say, it helped lap my Ultima 90 excellently and please check out my thread Re: the Ultima 90 and Slipstream fans to see the results.

 

[xavier es]

the type of sandpaper you want is called "wet and dry". any good hardware store should have it. you use water or oil to keep the grit of the sandpaper from becoming clogged and reducing the effectiveness of the sandpaper. I've only lapped one hs but i use wet and dry alot for auto painting prep. i used #220 first then #320,> #400, > #600, > #800, > #1000 >#1200>#1600 and finally #2200. make sure you clean the hs real good between different grits as a little speck of the last grit can leave a scratch which you will have to go back to the previous grit to remove.

 

[covert24]

alright thanks guys!

 

[known12345]

Checking out the website posted above (easypckits) it seems that they advocate using their products for heatsink lapping but how about cpu lapping? I check out their faq and they mention nothing on cpu lapping yet I do not see how you cannot lap your cpu with their kits? Is this the case or is there something about their kits that make it not as effective for cpu lapping? Also, if I do purchase one of their kits (the heat sink lapping kit without glass because I want to avoid paying $6 for shipping as opposed to $2 if the total cost is less then $6) do I have enough sand paper to lap both my cpu and heatsink? I mean should I just lap my cpu first then heatsink or I just have enough for both?

 

[Elcs]

Not many people do lap a CPU.

A heatsink is sturdy and strong, occasionally with an uneven surface. This makes them the prime choice to lap and makes them easy to handle.

A CPU is small, not much to grab a hold of and the pins are extremely flimsy. Much more care is needed to lap a CPU's IHS. It invalidates the warranty on your CPU also which most people are a little concerned about doing.

With the Premium Kit that I purchased, there is plenty of paper to do a heatsink and cpu and then some if you take good care of it. The kits are suitable for use on a CPU's IHS and contain high end grits in excess of #2000.

 

[known12345]

I see, thank you Elcs for the quick response. The premium kit seems to be more and more worth it every second.

Sorry for the stupid question, but will overclocking your CPU invalidate your warranty as well? I mean I was under the impression that overclocking your CPU invalidated your warranty as I mean I am purposely running it at a higher speed that it was originally designed for. However when you mention that most people are a little concerned about CPU lapping because their warranty on the CPU would be invalidated, I was surprised by such a comment because I thought that the people who were considering lapping their CPU overclocked their CPU and so already invalidated your warranty?

 

[Elcs]

Overclocking will indeed invalidate any warranty.

Lapping my CPU isnt something I would do. It feels like I am damaging a very fragile part of my PC. I dont think any IHS would be that thick and to attack it with sandpaper seems sheer lunacy.

Some people cany return a processor killed by overclocking for a replacement (morally wrong and not recommended). Most overclocking kills do not produce any notable damage on the outside of the processor which gives people the chance to get a new one, "i didnt overclock it", "whats overclocking?" etc. Lapping "damage" would be visible and vendors would be much less likely to return a dead CPU in that instance. Returning a CPU killed by overclocking or lapping is wrong, dont do it.

I do not plan to overclock for at least two years, maybe even three which may totally rule out any warranty anyway. The only reason I would lap is to reduce temperatures and therefore noise, not to increase overclockability. Noise is my main driving factor, Ive even undervolted my CPU to reduce temperatures.

 

[DrMrLordX]

You'd have to lap an IHS damn near forever to reduce its thickness by any significant amount, much less damage it. And, yes, while it may make returns damn near impossible, nobody considering overclocking or modification of their CPU should be trying to return damaged CPUs anyway.

 

[Elcs]

Originally posted by: DrMrLordX
You'd have to lap an IHS damn near forever to reduce its thickness by any significant amount, much less damage it. And, yes, while it may make returns damn near impossible, nobody considering overclocking or modification of their CPU should be trying to return damaged CPUs anyway.

Lapping an IHS is still not what most overclocking people would do. It just looks and feels so flimsy compared to a Heatsink that you dont really feel like you want to risk it.

As I explicitly mentioned in my post, it is wrong to return a CPU damaged through overclocking or lapping. I also stated that some people may not lap because the lapping damage is clear, overclocking damage is not always clear making for an easier deception of vendors.

 

[fkoehler]

Huh? I'll admit to having been out of the OC arena for the past several years as work has supplied me my computer, but where is this fear coming from?
I just got some 400 and 1000 grit wet&dry at Autozone for $6 and lapped my new e6750 in about 20 minutes the other day.
I've never had an LGA proc before, and it did throw me for a minute, however once you slap the plastic cover on it and flip it over, its simple.
I'm gonna go back and get some 1500 and 2000/2500 grit for a better finish, but right away I could see the IHS was convex from the marker lines I'd drawn on it.
Only thing I did differently on this than the last Celeron 300/450 I lapped was not using any water. Heard these cpus are not totally sealed????

Either way, lapping your HS and not also your cpu is not going to yield the best results.
Now I gotta drain my system, but I've got it running at 3.6 with only minor volt mods. It will reach 50c when under Prime Torture though, which I expect is the HS not being lapped or a seating problem.

 

[WoodButcher]

Originally posted by: Elcs

Originally posted by: DrMrLordX
You'd have to lap an IHS damn near forever to reduce its thickness by any significant amount, much less damage it. And, yes, while it may make returns damn near impossible, nobody considering overclocking or modification of their CPU should be trying to return damaged CPUs anyway.

Lapping an IHS is still not what most overclocking people would do. It just looks and feels so flimsy compared to a Heatsink that you dont really feel like you want to risk it.

As I explicitly mentioned in my post, it is wrong to return a CPU damaged through overclocking or lapping. I also stated that some people may not lap because the lapping damage is clear, overclocking damage is not always clear making for an easier deception of vendors.

LordX is correct, you would need to spend a great deal of time on the lower grits to burn through. The cpu is not as delicate as you seem to think Elcs, I wouldn't play ping pong with it but lapping won't hurt. I've found it easier to sell my old chips when lapped because so many folks are afraid to do this themselves.

fkoehler makes a good point, "lapping your HS and not also your cpu is not going to yield the best results." If you recall the E6600 that so often was concave and the TR 120 that was convex, lapping one and not the other made things worse.

@ covert24, Head to the autoparts store, get 2 sheets of each, 200, 400, 600, 800, 1,000. Use them all w/ water, the lower grits will not take much time till the next step, watch your marks from the sharpie. 1,000 grit is adequate for most but if you want the mirror finish you can go up in grits, using oil rather than water will help on he final grits over 1,000 but it is harder to clean.

 

[DerwenArtos12]

Originally posted by: WoodButcher

Originally posted by: Elcs

Originally posted by: DrMrLordX
You'd have to lap an IHS damn near forever to reduce its thickness by any significant amount, much less damage it. And, yes, while it may make returns damn near impossible, nobody considering overclocking or modification of their CPU should be trying to return damaged CPUs anyway.

Lapping an IHS is still not what most overclocking people would do. It just looks and feels so flimsy compared to a Heatsink that you dont really feel like you want to risk it.

As I explicitly mentioned in my post, it is wrong to return a CPU damaged through overclocking or lapping. I also stated that some people may not lap because the lapping damage is clear, overclocking damage is not always clear making for an easier deception of vendors.

LordX is correct, you would need to spend a great deal of time on the lower grits to burn through. The cpu is not as delicate as you seem to think Elcs, I wouldn't play ping pong with it but lapping won't hurt. I've found it easier to sell my old chips when lapped because so many folks are afraid to do this themselves.

fkoehler makes a good point, "lapping your HS and not also your cpu is not going to yield the best results." If you recall the E6600 that so often was concave and the TR 120 that was convex, lapping one and not the other made things worse.

@ covert24, Head to the autoparts store, get 2 sheets of each, 200, 400, 600, 800, 1,000. Use them all w/ water, the lower grits will not take much time till the next step, watch your marks from the sharpie. 1,000 grit is adequate for most but if you want the mirror finish you can go up in grits, using oil rather than water will help on he final grits over 1,000 but it is harder to clean.

honestly abover 400 if you have decent bevels on you HS and the edges haven't sharpened out on your CPU you should be able to do it dry and get the same results with a lot less mess and it's easier to blow out sandpaper than to try and rinse out soft metals.

 

[BlueAcolyte]

Originally posted by: WoodButcher

Originally posted by: Elcs

Originally posted by: DrMrLordX
You'd have to lap an IHS damn near forever to reduce its thickness by any significant amount, much less damage it. And, yes, while it may make returns damn near impossible, nobody considering overclocking or modification of their CPU should be trying to return damaged CPUs anyway.

Lapping an IHS is still not what most overclocking people would do. It just looks and feels so flimsy compared to a Heatsink that you dont really feel like you want to risk it.

As I explicitly mentioned in my post, it is wrong to return a CPU damaged through overclocking or lapping. I also stated that some people may not lap because the lapping damage is clear, overclocking damage is not always clear making for an easier deception of vendors.

LordX is correct, you would need to spend a great deal of time on the lower grits to burn through. The cpu is not as delicate as you seem to think Elcs, I wouldn't play ping pong with it but lapping won't hurt. I've found it easier to sell my old chips when lapped because so many folks are afraid to do this themselves.

fkoehler makes a good point, "lapping your HS and not also your cpu is not going to yield the best results." If you recall the E6600 that so often was concave and the TR 120 that was convex, lapping one and not the other made things worse.

@ covert24, Head to the autoparts store, get 2 sheets of each, 200, 400, 600, 800, 1,000. Use them all w/ water, the lower grits will not take much time till the next step, watch your marks from the sharpie. 1,000 grit is adequate for most but if you want the mirror finish you can go up in grits, using oil rather than water will help on he final grits over 1,000 but it is harder to clean.

If one is convex and one is concave, don't they fit together?

 

[DerwenArtos12]

Originally posted by: BlueAcolyte

Originally posted by: WoodButcher

Originally posted by: Elcs

Originally posted by: DrMrLordX
You'd have to lap an IHS damn near forever to reduce its thickness by any significant amount, much less damage it. And, yes, while it may make returns damn near impossible, nobody considering overclocking or modification of their CPU should be trying to return damaged CPUs anyway.

Lapping an IHS is still not what most overclocking people would do. It just looks and feels so flimsy compared to a Heatsink that you dont really feel like you want to risk it.

As I explicitly mentioned in my post, it is wrong to return a CPU damaged through overclocking or lapping. I also stated that some people may not lap because the lapping damage is clear, overclocking damage is not always clear making for an easier deception of vendors.

LordX is correct, you would need to spend a great deal of time on the lower grits to burn through. The cpu is not as delicate as you seem to think Elcs, I wouldn't play ping pong with it but lapping won't hurt. I've found it easier to sell my old chips when lapped because so many folks are afraid to do this themselves.

fkoehler makes a good point, "lapping your HS and not also your cpu is not going to yield the best results." If you recall the E6600 that so often was concave and the TR 120 that was convex, lapping one and not the other made things worse.

@ covert24, Head to the autoparts store, get 2 sheets of each, 200, 400, 600, 800, 1,000. Use them all w/ water, the lower grits will not take much time till the next step, watch your marks from the sharpie. 1,000 grit is adequate for most but if you want the mirror finish you can go up in grits, using oil rather than water will help on he final grits over 1,000 but it is harder to clean.

If one is convex and one is concave, don't they fit together?

only if they're both off indentically, which they weren't. The problem with only lapping the heastink became that even though they were both f-ed up, if you weren't going to lap both, it actually made things worse because it increased the gap between the IHS and the HS in the center.

 

[WoodButcher]

Originally posted by: DerwenArtos12

Originally posted by: BlueAcolyte

If one is convex and one is concave, don't they fit together?

only if they're both off indentically, which they weren't. The problem with only lapping the heastink became that even though they were both f-ed up, if you weren't going to lap both, it actually made things worse because it increased the gap between the IHS and the HS in the center.

My E6600 and TR 120 were darn close, [concave and convex] I had good temps w/o lapping but both parts were far from flat. The TR got better temps on my 6600 than I did w/ water because my D-tek was flat. After lapping the TR the temps got worse on air but after lapping the chip things are as they should be. My TR 120 temps were great but the H2O wins hands down.

 

[aigomorla]

Heheh....

funny how a year ago, when i was lapping my processors, everyone was calling me crazy, now its considered one of the few instant fixes for evening temps.