If you're going to claim that a Wal-Mart mechanic screwed up your car you should be aware they have a big staff of lawyers. If you have them change any fluid you should check it yourself before you start the car.
My tires are the highest rated all seasons on tirerack and were the best all seasons by consumer reports... Hankook H727's.
Don't know what the fusk you've been reading, but at CR, those Hankook H727's aren't even recommended, much less rated "best" all seasons.
In order of "finish" in all season tires, Michelin Defender, Continental ProContact EcoPlus, Goodyear Assurance, Pirelli P4, Michelin Energy Saver, and Yokohama Avid Ascend. The Hankooks placed 4 spots lower than the Avids, with the unrecommended Uniroyal Tiger Paw Touring, Falken Sincera Touring, and Cooper CS4 Touring above the Hankooks.
Now, they are ranked 3rd on TireRack, behind Firestone Precision Touring and Michelin Defenders. But nowhere do any Hankook tires top any chart.
Some of us don't have a lot of money. >.>
do you make enough money to get your tires rotated at walmart yet?
edit: in my defense, i only bumped this because i searched google for 'walmart mount tires' and this thread came up second :awe:
I took them to Discount tire actually. $74. Includes lifetime balance and all. Also bought the tires through them so the warranty is good there too.
I'm satisfied.
Discount Tire is awesome. They'll also repair punctures for free, even on tires they didn't sell you.nice. i actually didn't realize but there is a discount tire not far off my drive home from work, i will check them out.
do you make enough money to get your tires rotated at walmart yet?
My tires are the highest rated all seasons on tirerack and were the best all seasons by consumer reports... Hankook H727's. They don't last that long though. Between 35,000-45,000 is what you might get out of them. I can't remember my cars mileage exactly, but I got <45,000 out of those tires. Closer to 38,000 if I am remembering mileage correctly.
I changed them when they were barely at the top to just below of Lincoln's head on a penny. I knew the tires wouldn't last 7,000 more miles in the reliable way that I needed. EDIT: They weren't down to the wear-markers yet, but getting there.
This post is just straight-up lulzy.
The H727 ranked 7/21 in its category of standard all-season tires on TR. http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Hankook&tireModel=Optimo+H727&partnum=255TR8H727
It also has a 5 year 100k mile treadlife warranty, so only getting 35-45k seems laughable. If you're smoking tires that fast you ought to get your alignment checked.
Related points:
1) Don't take your car to a department store for service, especially not one that specializes in sacrificing quality
2) $80 is a decent price to change tires. But I'd expect to get RoadForce mounting and balancing for that price.
3) Your tires are the most important parts on your car. Your life and the lives of those around you depend heavily on your tires working properly. Don't cheap out on buying, installing, or maintaining them. The cost of tires is a small fraction of the TCO of a car.
I have them mount my tires, and when I got a set mounted there last year, they didn't force me to get the lifetime balance thing.People who make $100k get their tires at walmart?
Tire pressure goes a long way to preventing wear along the edges of the tires if you drive aggressively. I've had no problem driving aggressively on economy tires.People who make $100k get their tires at walmart?
Also please dear lord get the proper tires for your driving habits. Touring tires are for ride quality and comfort. Stop killing the sidewalls by cornering in a non-sports car because it likely has positive camber while cornering.
Get a tire with a stiffer sidewall and less tread life if you're going to wear out the toe anyway. High treadlife tires generally have deep tread at the beginning but don't really like being cornered on.
I rotated them frequently. The alignment was fine too. I just happen to be a pretty aggressive driver. And whenever I created this thread, they were the highest rated or close to. They may have changed in the years since...
$80 for mount and balance is a little high, probably could get it done for $60 depending on the tire size. I've gotten an alignment with coupon done for about $80 but the thing is, unless it's wearing unevenly, getting an alignment probably isn't necessary.So, on a car where you bitch about paying $80 to have a set of tires mounted and balanced, you've had an alignment performed recently? You've kept up on all suspension component inspection and replacement? AND you've completely ignored the treadlife warranty that would have gotten you a portion of your money back?
Are you familiar with an old robot saying: "does not compute?"
$80 for mount and balance is a little high, probably could get it done for $60 depending on the tire size. I've gotten an alignment with coupon done for about $80 but the thing is, unless it's wearing unevenly, getting an alignment probably isn't necessary.
Incorrect alignment settings will usually result in more rapid tire wear. Therefore, alignment should be checked whenever new tires or suspension components are installed, and any time unusual tire wear patterns appear.
[...]
Additionally the vehicle's toe is one of the most critical alignment settings relative to tire wear. A toe setting that is just a little off its appropriate setting can make a huge difference in their wear. Consider that if the toe setting is just 1/16-inch off of its appropriate setting, each tire on that axle will scrub almost seven feet sideways every mile! Extend it out and you'll discover that rather than running parallel to each other, the front tires will scrub over 1/4-mile sideways during every 100 miles of driving! Incorrect toe will rob you of tire life.
The edges are feathering on my OEM Contipro's because the sidewall is so thin/weak as a LRR tire. I run them at 35/36 PSI and the recommendation is 33PSI. They are EXTREMELY sensitive to low psi. 28 PSI causes drivability issues. The outer toe is chunking even. The toe is feathered, and they are 3 PSI over.Tire pressure goes a long way to preventing wear along the edges of the tires if you drive aggressively. I've had no problem driving aggressively on economy tires.
The edges are feathering on my OEM Contipro's because the sidewall is so thin/weak as a LRR tire. I run them at 35/36 PSI and the recommendation is 33PSI. They are EXTREMELY sensitive to low psi. 28 PSI causes drivability issues. The outer toe is chunking even. The toe is feathered, and they are 3 PSI over.
Its from high temperature highway travel. The particular highways near me are in the mountains and it was a hot summer. So applying 25-50% throttle for 26 miles up a 6% grade while turning the whole time in 100F heat is too much for a LRR/Grand touring tire. I didn't even drive aggressively on them. Typical speed in the 70mph zone is 85mph or so if you coast down a 20-30mile 6% grade. There are rather sharp turns as well... probably the sharpest allowed by law on a highway. So you either wear your brakes/rotors or your tires. Low gearing isn't an option with a speed limit of 70mph. Plus the engine would never get a break, you're doing 3-4k rpm for like 10-20 miles at a time uphill.
Due to all the turns/inclines/grades and the effects of aerodynamics on handling at those speeds it mostly feels like I'm flying through the mountains rather than driving.
So yea... please match your tires to your needs. These OEM tires are garbage for my needs. I need performance tires just to go places and I will need performance winter studless tires come winter time.
You can probably chunk 10-15k miles off the life of your tires in one dumbass maneuver with something like a Goodyear Assurance tripletread. You guys probably aren't just inspecting your tires closely enough. Which is another thing, don't drive aggressively if you aren't inspecting your tires.