pump went bad, some good came out of it

[Elganja]

ehhh ive seen much worse... lol

typical of what happens in a very restrictive loop or a very high flow loop.
The pcb heats up, and eventually leads to failure.

Did u try counter sinking the top on? basically do the opposite corners first and then tighten them all down?

The CPU loop is so simple, so I'm not sure. There are no restrictions in it...

In terms of countersink, I always tighten that way. Just a habit from wrenching on cars where you always tighten like that

I also purchased the heatsinks for them, so I hope that puts an end to a pump failure like this

 

[Modelworks]

Get a $20 marineland aquarium pump. They are silent and last for years. The pc water cooling pumps I have seen are all poorly designed. Usually nothing more than pc fan electronics put into a water pump centrifuge shell. Definitely not designed to last.
I have one of the marineland pumps (nj900) in a system that has been running for years and still works fine.
http://www.marineland.com/sites/marineland/products/Detail.aspx?id=3383

 

[aigomorla]

those fish pumps are not exactly meant for our hobby.

Not to mention the D5 is also a solar water pump in the industry, so its a very reliabile pump.

Also the DDC is fairly realiabile as well.
What we notice tho in high flow loops, they tend to spin faster then designed and over heat when your unlucky and put a top on it.... like in the ops case.

Its really a luck of the draw.. some ddc's heat up, others dont.


Also if i needed a pump that big... i would just recycle my iwaki RD-30.

 

[Elganja]

got the res today... bleeding was easy as pie. I don't know what people were complaining about. Insert is on the bottom left, U on the bottom, baffle in top right and short plug. I flipped my PC on it's back to fill and just ran the pumps with nothing else on (blipped it a couple times to make sure they were primed). There were some small bubbles, but they cleared up rather quickly with a little motivation.

also running a single loop now... res/pumps -> rad 1 -> gpu's -> rad 2 -> cpu -> repeat... temps are awesome. About 5C cooler on the GPU's and CPU while idling. While gaming, gpu's are nearly 10C cooler (~55C), but the CPU's went up 2-3C (~50C). I'm happy with the switch and can sleep happy knowing that if 1 pump fails, the other one will still chug along thanks to a serial setup.

 

[ViviTheMage]

got the res today... bleeding was easy as pie. I don't know what people were complaining about. Insert is on the bottom left, U on the bottom, baffle in top right and short plug. I flipped my PC on it's back to fill and just ran the pumps with nothing else on (blipped it a couple times to make sure they were primed). There were some small bubbles, but they cleared up rather quickly with a little motivation.

also running a single loop now... res/pumps -> rad 1 -> gpu's -> rad 2 -> cpu -> repeat... temps are awesome. About 5C cooler on the GPU's and CPU while idling. While gaming, gpu's are nearly 10C cooler (~55C), but the CPU's went up 2-3C (~50C). I'm happy with the switch and can sleep happy knowing that if 1 pump fails, the other one will still chug along thanks to a serial setup.

The 402x2 are cake, it's the 452x2 that are a ah heck.

 

[aigomorla]

The 402x2 are cake, it's the 452x2 that are a ah heck.

well there still both kinda complicated compared to a swiftech micro res, and a regular tube res.



but Elganja im glad u had no issues with your bay res.

If your happy with it, then im sure you will continue to be happy with it!