Rear Window Defogger Kit HELP

[123GO]

I need big help.
I just bought Loctite Defogger Kit, but I think I have screwed the application.
There are 2 ampules there: the activator & the Adhesive.
I have used the applicator, and it dry up now. The multipliers are still locked. Failed
Which one of the ampules actually has the conductive ingridient?
How to use it? Do we need to use both the activator and the adhesive?
The adhesive is the one written as "electrically conductive".

Since now I have no activator left. Can I still use the Adhesive to unlock ?

If I mess up the application, can I still remove the adhesive from the CPU after
it dries up ?

Need some help please.

 

[Tonec]

Are you sure you bought the right loctite product, it should come in a single bottle. Activator+adhesive sounds like two part glue.

 

[Imported]

I think you got the wrong one. It should be a little bottle with a brush and a guide.

 

[IaPuP]

I would have to recommend using the pencil trick. It would probably be more reliable and permanent than an un-dried adhesive.

I wrote a fairly lengthy description of why this is just as good/better than a conductive pen.

If you don't feel comfortable using it then I would recommend finding some air-drying compound if you're having trouble with the mixed, epoxy-style.

Eric

 

[pdo]

I got the wrong kit once too. You need to get one where it saids something like Rear Window Grid repair Kit. I'm pretty sure you have the wrong kit. The right one only a bottle a brush and a stencil.

 

[NoreagaCNN]

You got the wrong one, You got the Rear Window Tab Repair kit, you need the reae window defogger kit. You got the crappy one with the blur bottle and yellow package return that crap and get the other one, dont do the pencil trick or you'll be doing it every 3 weeks or so as it wears off.

Peace,
Nore

 

[IaPuP]

I'm curious as to what would cause the pencil lines to "wear off".

I have a Duron that has been in use for 2 months, pulled in and out of a motherboard probably 3 times a day with different HSF combos mounted on it and I haven't noticed even a fading of the density of the pencil marks.

Pencil marks fade every 3 weeks? Is this from experience? It seems to be Anand's experience (granted he's intelligent but has no formal engineering training) but there are several engineers who agree with me on this. Graphite is even used in some old resistors because of its predictable semiconductor nature.

the only thing that will cause graphite to fade is rubbing. Its crystal structure is very malliable and will not even be affected by heat stress or electrical conduction. The crystalline structure is not prone to evaporating or wear unless there is a source of friction. Since the only component to be near it is a metal heatsink, if there is any friction from it, it will probably have already shorted out.

Just my opinion I guess.

Eric

 

[Healey]

Ditto IaPup. I used a pencil rolling around in my desk drawer and have been up and running for 3 months now.

A benifit of using the pencil is that if there's a problem, in can be erased and not leave a trace. This came in handy for me when a HSF (GoldOrb, since returned) damaged my cpu upon installation. Just erased the lines and RMA'd the dead sucker.

New one's purring along fine.

Thank you no.2 pencil.

 

[Technonut]

I personally have had the pencil lines fail on 4 or 5 T-Birds and Durons. The times varied between failures, the longest being a little over a month. I finally used the Loctite conductive paint, did a bunch in one shot, and forgot about it. The majority of failures were during rebooting, while the others just would happen with a sudden system lockup. I see others that have posted say they had to re-apply the pencil lines a few times to "get it right." The Loctite is a good solution to do it once and be done with it, IMO.

 

[PlunX]

I got something called "Loctite Quick Grid Rear Window Defogger Repair Kit".. It's just a small bottle of orangish resin. I opened it, stuck the back side of a needle into it, and then applied it to the bridges. It costed about $4.99 at AutoZone.

 

[NoreagaCNN]

Yea it's not that expensive anyways so why take your chances with the stupid pencil, just waste the $5-10 and buy the Loctite kit.

Peace,
Nore

 

[gummiely]

ohhh crap... i bought the same (wrong) thing. i guess i should go back and get the right stuff. pain in da butt to find, tho.. i went to 3 or 4 auto stores before finding this stuff. oh well..

 

[123GO]

I think you're right. I have bought the wrong Repair Kit. It is "Loctite Rear Windows Defogger Tap Adhesive".
I didn't really notice the word "Tap Adhesive" because it is small. I only saw the top label "Read Windows Defogger" and "Electrically Conductive". Never have I thought there are several types of Rear Windows Defogger.
Yes, there are 2 materials in it, a small vial with brown liquid and an ampule of glue.
The brown liquid dried up in ONLY 30 SECONDS after I broke the vial. I haven't even got the chance to do anything with it, or save it for later use.

I think I regretted my decision. I previously used 2B pencil to unlock, and it runs well for me in the last 3 months......until I got disturbed when people kept saying that pencil is unrealiable, and therefore decided to
try this repair kit.

I think I will just go back to my old pencil. It is easier, cheap, and has not given me any trouble for the last 3 months. I guess I read too much. LOL

Anyway, I wonder if I can still use the glue. There is the same warning "Electrically Conductive" on the glue's ampule. I have previously tried a little experiment witht the glue though. I put the glue on the four L1 bridges, but I only left it 30 minutes to dry up, before I set my heatsink back and tried to boot...but failed. No boot.
I'm pretty sure the L1 bridges didn't cross each other, and the heatsink doesn't screw up the newly applied bridges.
Is it possible the failure is because the glue hasn't dried enough?
Logically, if it is really electrically conductive, it should still boot , right ?
The conductive agent should have worked despite it is wet or dry.

Or should I rather try again and leave the glued L1 for 24 hours ?
What do you say ?

 

[IaPuP]

sheeesh
just use the pencil!!

lol

There is not danger of it "leaving".

As I've said, graphite is not subject to thermal fracturing, nor does it evaporate.

The only reason it will fail is if you rub it off .

Eric

 

[DaddyG]

The correct kit is Loctite/Permatex part #15067. No mixing required, just a small bottle and brush. Regarding the pencil deal, I already posted in the original IaPup post. Use the product thats Designed to repair electricl circuits.

 

[mikeinfwa]

My father-in-law worked for GE for 35 years. I asked him about the #2 pencil method. He said all pencils are not made the same. You would need to test the pencil with a meter (of some type)
I forgot the name of the meter. He also said that as the graphite ages it loses its conductive properties.

The reason i'm posting this is because I had a tough time with my duron 600. I used many different pencils and a huge magnifying glass. I spent about 4 hours on it before i got the 600 to respond to the pencil correctly.

I think i m going to the auto store to buy the loctite tube

mike

 

[Aybara]

you must be using them Japanese pencils hehe. j/k