Recomend 10" sawblade for tablesaw

[steppinthrax]

I have a delta tablesaw I picked up at a garage sale. Nice cast iron table and adjustments for depth and angle.

The blade appears to be dull. I'm going to be cutting various materials, I guess I will need a general purpose blade, but I see many different blades for various purposes.

 

[NutBucket]

http://amzn.com/B00008WQ2Z

 

[Zargon]

I have a few diablo blades and they are awesome(including that one posted above on my 10" mitre saw)

if you plan on doing much plywood you will want the finishing blade with 80 teeth

 

[Kelvrick]

I'd actually recommend this one.
http://www.harborfreight.com/10-inc...op-bevel-design-circular-saw-blade-38544.html

Nice, smooth cuts and cheap. Especially for general work. They have a 40 tooth "tin coated" version too, but I haven't personally tried it.

 

[twinrider1]

Delta 35-7657 10" 40 Tooth General Purpose Circular Saw Blade

 

[jagec]

I have a few diablo blades and they are awesome(including that one posted above on my 10" mitre saw)

if you plan on doing much plywood you will want the finishing blade with 80 teeth

I also like the Diablo finishing blade. Very clean cuts.

 

[SphinxnihpS]

Ugh, seriously? All blades posted are junk. Thin kerf blades are a bill of goods to sell you less steel and carbide for the same price as standard thickness blades. All blades other than CMT blades are stamp-cut from sheets, meaning the steel in them is automatically stressed and prone to warping.

There is no single blade for cutting all things, so you are simply SOL there. Combo blades do not cut or rip nearly as well as the blades designed for those singular purposes. I suggest a a ripping blade and a crosscut/cutoff blade. Ripping on a non-ripping blade is flat out dangerous and will ruin your blade from overheating. Combo blades have only 4 or 5 rip teeth on the whole blade, don't make the best crosscuts, and will overheat ripping, shortening their life.

The best blades hands down are CMT laser-cut PTFE-coated orange blades. With tools, more than anything else, you get what you pay for.

 

[LikeLinus]

Forrest Woodworker II

http://www.amazon.com/Forrest-WW1040...ywords=forrest

It was the highest rated blade by Fine Woodworking a couple of years ago. Not sure about now, but I have one on my cabinet saw and it's a great multipurpose blade.

 

[Greenman]

Never heard of CMT. I generally use Diablo, Freud, or Dewalt. Good enough for most things. I've never tried a Harbor Fright blade, I would assume they are of the same quality as most harbor Fright stuff.

 

[Greenman]

Ugh, seriously? All blades posted are junk. Thin kerf blades are a bill of goods to sell you less steel and carbide for the same price as standard thickness blades. All blades other than CMT blades are stamp-cut from sheets, meaning the steel in them is automatically stressed and prone to warping.

There is no single blade for cutting all things, so you are simply SOL there. Combo blades do not cut or rip nearly as well as the blades designed for those singular purposes. I suggest a a ripping blade and a crosscut/cutoff blade. Ripping on a non-ripping blade is flat out dangerous and will ruin your blade from overheating. Combo blades have only 4 or 5 rip teeth on the whole blade, don't make the best crosscuts, and will overheat ripping, shortening their life.

The best blades hands down are CMT laser-cut PTFE-coated orange blades. With tools, more than anything else, you get what you pay for.

Thin kerf blades are an excellent design that works very well for most general woodwork. The only place to use a wide kerf blade is in a large, heavy duty table saw.

 

[stinkynathan]

Ugh, seriously? All blades posted are junk. Thin kerf blades are a bill of goods to sell you less steel and carbide for the same price as standard thickness blades. All blades other than CMT blades are stamp-cut from sheets, meaning the steel in them is automatically stressed and prone to warping.

There is no single blade for cutting all things, so you are simply SOL there. Combo blades do not cut or rip nearly as well as the blades designed for those singular purposes. I suggest a a ripping blade and a crosscut/cutoff blade. Ripping on a non-ripping blade is flat out dangerous and will ruin your blade from overheating. Combo blades have only 4 or 5 rip teeth on the whole blade, don't make the best crosscuts, and will overheat ripping, shortening their life.

The best blades hands down are CMT laser-cut PTFE-coated orange blades. With tools, more than anything else, you get what you pay for.

Thin kerf blades are EXCELLENT for 1-1.5hp saws on 120v. Those size saws generally won't spin a full-kerf blade as well as a 3hp 220/3-phase Unisaw.

You're right that there is no one blade that is good at cutting everything. If you're going to be doing any hobby woodworking you're going to want a 24t thin-kerf ripping blade and a 40- or 60-tooth crosscut/ply blade at a minimum. Make yourself a zero-clearance insert, align the blade to the miter slots and the fence to the blade and you should be good to go.

<--works for the cabinet shop that did this:

 

[SphinxnihpS]

Thin kerf blades are EXCELLENT for 1-1.5hp saws on 120v. Those size saws generally won't spin a full-kerf blade as well as a 3hp 220/3-phase Unisaw.

You're right that there is no one blade that is good at cutting everything. If you're going to be doing any hobby woodworking you're going to want a 24t thin-kerf ripping blade and a 40- or 60-tooth crosscut/ply blade at a minimum. Make yourself a zero-clearance insert, align the blade to the miter slots and the fence to the blade and you should be good to go.

<--works for the cabinet shop that did this:

I have thrown every thin kerf blade out the window.

I have never lost or cracked a tooth or burned a piece of wood on a CMT blade. They have been perfect up to 10 years and expect they will last forever. They also don't chip out the back side of a cut nearly as much as other blades.

CMT Catalog

btw, nice bar.