Recommend a Good Starter Bike

[Zenmervolt]

Originally posted by: novon
So how limiting is a 250cc going to be? I'm about 6' 190lbs and I'm wondering if I should go with a 500cc for a starter.

A 250cc sportbike will be outgrown eventually, but it's not going to be anywhere near too small to be fun. You'll probably be limited to a top end around 95-100 mph but you'll get great acceleration at lower speeds. It's not going to be a dog.

Now, if you're looking at a cruiser or a standard, 250cc will be way too small. 500cc is a good starting point for a cruiser or a standard. Remember, a cruiser or a standard is an entirely different breed than a sportbike so even though 250cc would be too small for a standard, it's plenty for a sportbike.

ZV

 

[TitanDiddly]

Is there a point where someone is too heavy to ride a sportbike? There are tons of huge guys who ride harleys, but I'm not interesting in one of those. I'm 290, 6'2".

 

[Zenmervolt]

Originally posted by: PhasmatisNox
Is there a point where someone is too heavy to ride a sportbike? There are tons of huge guys who ride harleys, but I'm not interesting in one of those. I'm 290, 6'2".

Just be sure to sit on a few and see if they are comfortable. I think that's the main issue. The larger guys are just more comfortable on Harleys and other cruisers. If you can find a sportbike that's comfortable for you, there's no mechanical reason that you'd be too big for it.

ZV

 

[Rudee]

My first and last bike was a 500 Interceptor. I collided with a deer and almost killed myself, and that was it for riding motorcycles. That was back in the late 80's

 

[TitanDiddly]

Originally posted by: Zenmervolt

Originally posted by: PhasmatisNox
Is there a point where someone is too heavy to ride a sportbike? There are tons of huge guys who ride harleys, but I'm not interesting in one of those. I'm 290, 6'2".

Just be sure to sit on a few and see if they are comfortable. I think that's the main issue. The larger guys are just more comfortable on Harleys and other cruisers. If you can find a sportbike that's comfortable for you, there's no mechanical reason that you'd be too big for it.

ZV

Alright. There's a Honda(?) store not too far from me, some day I'll go down there and try a few.

 

[OffTopic1]

Beginner Bikes -- Great reviews & guides.

 

[hevnsnt]

Originally posted by: bmacd
with all due to respect to the few credible riders here (like MikePanic, GoodGuy, myself, and a few other regulars), don't take the advice from a hardware message board about motorcycles. 95% of these clowns couldn't even tell you how to kick start a bike, let alone which bike you should drop your money into. Do some of the legwork and research yourself. There is no reason for you to buy a motorcycle newer than 1998. You WILL crash it. If a bike has a lot of plastic (like a supersport bike), i promise you that fixing the plastic (after you crash) is almost as much as buying a new bike. If you are serious about buying a motorcycle, PM or AIM me and i'd be happy to help you get started and show you what to look for and what to look at. I also think that you should set aside money BEFORE you buy a bike for the purchase of good gloves (that go past your wrist...DO NOT BUY MESH GLOVES!!), a jacket (can be ballistic or leather), and a good helmet. Expect to spend at least $100 on a good helmet (HJC CL-12 is a great, inexpensive helmet), and on upwards of $500 for top of the line (Arai or Shoei). A good jacket and gloves can last you a lifetime if you take care of them, just like your motorcycle. Your helmet, on the other hand, should be replaced if you ever crash on the helmet or after 4 years, whichever comes first.

-=bmacd=-
AIM: bmacd95b

100% EXCELLENT ADVICE (on every point)

However on a post a little further down he suggested to make sure that your helmet is DOT rated. I would like to add to make sure you buy a helmet that is both DOT and SNELL 2000 (SNELL rating is more strict than DOT) Don't buy anything that is not SNELL 2000 rated. I also like the HJC's, but as stated the more expensive helmets are better. However bang for the buck factor you cant beat the HJC's.

 

[NYSTrooper]

Originally posted by: bmacd
with all due to respect to the few credible riders here (like MikePanic, GoodGuy, myself, and a few other regulars), don't take the advice from a hardware message board about motorcycles. 95% of these clowns couldn't even tell you how to kick start a bike, let alone which bike you should drop your money into. Do some of the legwork and research yourself. There is no reason for you to buy a motorcycle newer than 1998. You WILL crash it. If a bike has a lot of plastic (like a supersport bike), i promise you that fixing the plastic (after you crash) is almost as much as buying a new bike. If you are serious about buying a motorcycle, PM or AIM me and i'd be happy to help you get started and show you what to look for and what to look at. I also think that you should set aside money BEFORE you buy a bike for the purchase of good gloves (that go past your wrist...DO NOT BUY MESH GLOVES!!), a jacket (can be ballistic or leather), and a good helmet. Expect to spend at least $100 on a good helmet (HJC CL-12 is a great, inexpensive helmet), and on upwards of $500 for top of the line (Arai or Shoei). A good jacket and gloves can last you a lifetime if you take care of them, just like your motorcycle. Your helmet, on the other hand, should be replaced if you ever crash on the helmet or after 4 years, whichever comes first.

-=bmacd=-
AIM: bmacd95b

Don't forget to mention that a USED helmet is worthless, do NOT take someones old helmet that sort of fits, or get sold the helmet from the owner of the bike you purchase.

 

I saw bmacd mentioned that you should replace your helmet every 4 years, or if you crash on it.
I can understand if you crash on it, but why replace it every 4 years?
Do helmet standards and technology change that much in 4 years?

 

[hevnsnt]

Because the lineing gets worn.. A helmet should fit so snug that when you are wearing it you should not be able to move it from side to side without using some force from your hands.. (Does that make sense?)

 

Yes, but if you are paying upwards of $500 for a good helmet, would you not expect it to have a completly replaceable lining?
Not requring you to replace the other 90% of the helmet that is still in 100% functional order?

 

[hevnsnt]

Most of them do have replaceable linings.. So if you don't wreck, that should be fine to just replace the lining. However I cannot state it enough. If you helmet has EVER touched the pavement in a wreck, Drop, etc... It might be time to get a new one. They can get cracks that you cant see.

(edited for clarity)

 

They do, or they don't?

Is that so they can sell more whole helmet units?

 

[hevnsnt]

They do, and I edited for clarity

 

[Whisper]

The only "beginner" bike that I have any experience riding is a Kawasaki Ninja 500R (same thing as the EX 500, just rebadged in I think '98 or '99 to take advantage of the popularity of the Ninja monicker). I'd definitely recommend it, as it's fast enough to keep you satisfied for at least 6 months-1 year, but forgiving enough not to kill you when you mess up. I personally learned to ride on a Ducati 900SS, and would've had a much easier time on the Ninja...then again, at least the Duc prepared me for just about anything else I end up buying.

I currently have a GSX-R 600, and wouldn't recommend anything of this size/speed to ANYONE first picking up motorcycling. Like someone else mentioned, it's quite possible to learn how to ride on one (or even something larger)...it's just that the margin of error is much smaller, self-restraint is tested that much more, and the bike itself is less forgiving.

Also, definitely set aside the money for a helmet, jacket, and pair of gloves before getting the bike. Those three items alone will run you at least $400+, so be prepared. I lucked out and found a nice Shoei helmet on sale (I think it was $400 marked down to $200 or $250) because the place was clearing out its inventory, so shopping around could definitely help. You could even start looking now, seeing as how you need neither a motorcycle nor a license to buy your gear.

 

I see, interesting.
I'll keep that in mind for when I get a bike.

 

[NYSTrooper]

Originally posted by: SampSon
I see, interesting.
I'll keep that in mind for when I get a bike.

Just incase you missed my above post...

Don't ever buy a used helmet. Not even if it has a replaceable liner. You have no clue what damage the helmet has encountered and its not worth the risk. A used helmet is TRASH.

 

Originally posted by: NYSTrooper

Originally posted by: SampSon
I see, interesting.
I'll keep that in mind for when I get a bike.

Just incase you missed my above post...

Don't ever buy a used helmet. Not even if it has a replaceable liner. You have no clue what damage the helmet has encountered and its not worth the risk. A used helmet is TRASH.

Yea that's common sense.
Everything but the bike would be new.

 

[Harabecw]

Good advices here, I'll add my own.
As for the bikes, I can recommend the GS500E. cheap to buy, cheap to maintain, cheap to fix, has enough power for a rider's needs (until you get speedaholic like all of us ) and it doesn't look too bad

Also for clarification: A 600 supersport might only be 100cc more than the 2 500's mentioned above (Ninja and GS) but they also have 4 cylinders and are designed for power. how much? upwards of twice the power the 500's have at the higher RPM range.
So if you're thinking of something specific, look up some info on it to make sure its not too much of a motorcycle for you.

And lastly - its ALL in your mind. Some people DO have enough self-restraint to start off on a 600\750\1000. Some don't. Just don't push your luck

 

[bmacd]

Originally posted by: SampSon

Originally posted by: NYSTrooper

Originally posted by: SampSon
I see, interesting.
I'll keep that in mind for when I get a bike.

Just incase you missed my above post...

Don't ever buy a used helmet. Not even if it has a replaceable liner. You have no clue what damage the helmet has encountered and its not worth the risk. A used helmet is TRASH.

Yea that's common sense.
Everything but the bike would be new.

New leathers are too much for me...i bought a used 2 pc Fieldsheer suit for $250. I rarely use the pants, but i wear the jacket everywhere. And it's not only the lining that goes bad on used helmets. A helmet is just a big block of styrofoam with some pretty plastic around it. Sitting in the sun, rolling around in a garage, and other factors will deteriorate the quality of the helmet. It's very similar to the bumper on the car, except a helmet is the difference of saving your life versus dying. A small fender bender might not show any external damage to your bumper, but on the inside, you may have caused stress cracking or damaged another internal component. That bumper is essentially worthless, despite not being able to see any real damage. The next time you get in an accident, i PROMISE that bumper won't hold up and absorb the impact like it's supposed to. Make any sense?

And a reason why i suggest starting small (ninja 250 per say) is that you have an opportunity to try and push the bike to it's limits. It also gives you the chance to really get a feel for RIDING, as opposed to always being overwhelmed by the power of a 600cc bike and never learning how to properly brake, maneuver in an emergency, or cruise the streets. Motorcycling isn't all about power...it's has a lot to do with your mentality as well, thus all the Darwin theories and the "squids" dying or causing accidents.

Every motorcyclist on this board and the next has been where you are right now...we all had to start somewhere. I was riding for a few years before i bought a super sportbike (gixxer 600). I've lost count how many times i SHOULD be dead now, but it's those exact instances that make you think twice about every move you make, wheelie you pull, stoppie you land, and everytime you pull away from a traffic light.

Just remember, that as a motorcyclist, YOU are the minority. You need to learn defensive driving, and if you don't understand defensive driving now, learn QUICKLY!!! If you are an aggressive driver or animal on the road, i highly recommend that you NOT buy a bike. All of this advice will hit home to your heart the first time one of your friend's die...and then the next one, then the one after that, and so on. Be safe, be careful, use your head, wear your gear, and think twice. Good luck fellas

-=bmacd=-

 

[RossMAN]

ZV or bmacd,

What are the major differences between sport, standard and cruiser bikes?

 

[Silex]

Originally posted by: bmacd
with all due to respect to the few credible riders here (like MikePanic, GoodGuy, myself, and a few other regulars), don't take the advice from a hardware message board about motorcycles. 95% of these clowns couldn't even tell you how to kick start a bike, let alone which bike you should drop your money into. Do some of the legwork and research yourself. There is no reason for you to buy a motorcycle newer than 1998. You WILL crash it. If a bike has a lot of plastic (like a supersport bike), i promise you that fixing the plastic (after you crash) is almost as much as buying a new bike. If you are serious about buying a motorcycle, PM or AIM me and i'd be happy to help you get started and show you what to look for and what to look at. I also think that you should set aside money BEFORE you buy a bike for the purchase of good gloves (that go past your wrist...DO NOT BUY MESH GLOVES!!), a jacket (can be ballistic or leather), and a good helmet. Expect to spend at least $100 on a good helmet (HJC CL-12 is a great, inexpensive helmet), and on upwards of $500 for top of the line (Arai or Shoei). A good jacket and gloves can last you a lifetime if you take care of them, just like your motorcycle. Your helmet, on the other hand, should be replaced if you ever crash on the helmet or after 4 years, whichever comes first.

-=bmacd=-
AIM: bmacd95b

I resent this! Then again I must fall in the 5% portion . I've taken the MSF course and passed with flying colors, but you're right about the kick start bit. I've only dealt with electric starters. Personally, I like the Yamaha FZR600 and Honda F3, but will probably go Yamaha just to be diferent (plus I'm a Yamaha fanatic).

Regarding gear, it's always the general concensus to always put money aside when buying a bike to also buy gear, in otherwords add the price for gear in too. At a bare minumum a helmet, jacket, jeans, and comfortable boots, are needed when going riding. I'd set aside around $400-500 for gear at a minimum.

Originally posted by: RossMAN
ZV or bmacd,

What are the major differences between sport, standard and cruiser bikes?

I'm not sure what you mean by standard bikes, but lemme take a shot at this. Sports bikes (ie. Yamaha R6), aka crotchrockets put you in a very aggresive riding position to lower wind drag. They usually have more fairings/plastic around the engine and frame for this reason as well as looks. They are build for speed and thus manufacturers also strive for the best blend of highest horsepower with lightest curb weight in most cases. Cruisers are the exact opposite and put you in a comfortable seat-up position that is perfect for long trips. I'll assume by standard you mean the cross-bred kind like dual duty bike that is sporty, but also a cruiser. They aren't balls out in looks or performance, but they have the sport bike look, but a less aggressive seating position. One bike that comes to mind is the Yamaha YZF-600R Thundercat.

 

[olds]

Starter Bike.

 

[olds]

Originally posted by: RossMAN
ZV or bmacd,

What are the major differences between sport, standard and cruiser bikes?

Basically, seating position. But of course they are built to be ridden differently.