Recommendation, please: Chainsaws!

[BUTCH1]

Whatever you buy, if you're not used to a chainsaw and even if you are, carefully read the safety instructions. Don't just skip over that part of the manual. Kickback is a real threat and I would highly, highly advise that along with the saw you get a) a chain saw helmet, one with hearing protection if you go with a gas model and b) steel toed boots to wear if you like having both feet and all your toes.

If you want to go the whole distance, also get some protective pants. These are made so that if the saw hits you the fibers clog up and stop the blade. At least I think that's how they're supposed to work IIRC. Check it out

Good advise, there are also many quality vid's on YT put up by all the major manufacturer's on how to properly judge the situation before you even attempt at cutting and how to operate it safely once you do. There are also "chain-saw fail" compilations and 75% of them have homeowners up really high on ladders only to have the limb they just cut swoop down and send them flying. Just got this present from Irma down on the deck safely today, https://i.imgur.com/LwivLub.jpg talk about a dicey situation!. Called in a Pro for an estimate and he quoted me $5,250, he then added, "oh, this is usually $6-7K all day long, I'm not making a dime here, I'm just very concerned about your safety". Guess I would be safe, my wallet, not so much, I sent his as$ packing and bought a bigger chain-saw.

 

[lxskllr]

Good advise, there are also many quality vid's on YT put up by all the major manufacturer's on how to properly judge the situation before you even attempt at cutting and how to operate it safely once you do. There are also "chain-saw fail" compilations and 75% of them have homeowners up really high on ladders only to have the limb they just cut swoop down and send them flying. Just got this present from Irma down on the deck safely today, https://i.imgur.com/LwivLub.jpg talk about a dicey situation!. Called in a Pro for an estimate and he quoted me $5,250, he then added, "oh, this is usually $6-7K all day long, I'm not making a dime here, I'm just very concerned about your safety". Guess I would be safe, my wallet, not so much, I sent his as$ packing and bought a bigger chain-saw.

Physics is a bitch. Paying attention, and studying the job to be done gets you 99% there. You need to always be aware of the consequences of your cut. You can end up with a trapped saw, cut artery, or dead if don't think the job through before starting. It's easy to let your attention slip too. Things are going great, and caution diminishes, then you do something stupid. I've done it. No consequences, but I realized it at the time, and had to say to myself "Pay attention dumbfuck".

 

[BUTCH1]

Physics is a bitch. Paying attention, and studying the job to be done gets you 99% there. You need to always be aware of the consequences of your cut. You can end up with a trapped saw, cut artery, or dead if don't think the job through before starting. It's easy to let your attention slip too. Things are going great, and caution diminishes, then you do something stupid. I've done it. No consequences, but I realized it at the time, and had to say to myself "Pay attention dumbfuck".

Yea, couldn't agree more, this tree I just had to handle took a LOT of thinking/planning due to it's size + the fact my house was bearing some of the weight. My first action was to make a solid brace so I could remove the limbs then remove the weight off the roof. Then I had 2 large limbs that got shoved into the ground that were also supporting some weight. I made a 2nd brace with an 8-ton bottle jack on top, this allowed me to remove the limbs under tension by lifting the trunk about 5 inches. Once that was done my only option was to attack the trunk since I could no longer reach anything from the roof. The root-ball was still 100% attached to the trunk making it an unpredictable cut, when I separated the 2 the trunk went forward about 1-2ft and promptly fell off both braces. I was kind expecting that might happen so I used logs+ an old air-mattress to help cushion/distribute the weight of the trunk falling down. I'm wore out, but still in one piece and no way I was coughing up the $5,250 a Pro quoted me.

 

[Elixer]

Ego 56v battery saw. I'm not a lumberjack and the convenience of battery cannot be overstated. Cuts through everything I have thrown at it with ease. I use the saw, blower, hedge trimmer, and weed eater.

How long does a battery powered chainsaw actually last?
It also sounds like you have multiple batteries as well...which would help, but are really expensive when I was looking at them last year.

 

[rommelrommel]

Stihl MS170, super handy little saw that will do anything that a non-experienced person should be doing anyways. More saw is nice but more saw is also heavier and can get you in trouble. I have a ms250 and honestly it’s more than I’ve ever needed.

 

[bbhaag]

Look for a cheap refurb on Ebay and call it good. I've had luck with the Poulan Pro refurbed saws. They start after a couple pulls and with a Oregon chain they cut nice and have plenty of power under load.
Take a look at this one.

 

[Jeeebus]

How long does a battery powered chainsaw actually last?
It also sounds like you have multiple batteries as well...which would help, but are really expensive when I was looking at them last year.

for chainsaw purposes I've never had a battery die on me, but I'm doing mostly light pruning work on the fruit trees (for. the most part 8 - 10" max diameter). I'm not cutting firewood or downing huge oak trees. The blower at max speed lasts about 10 minutes which for my purposes (clearing the driveway or drying my car after a wash) is more than adequate. I have 2 batteries and each fully charges in 30 minutes or so. it is a pleasure just pushing a trigger and your tools work instantly.

hedge trimmer i think goes for a good hour or so.

 

[kage69]

Husqvarna and Stihl are the only ones I'd be looking at.

Try to run non-ethanol gas in it when you mix too, and don't skimp on changing filters. Keep the chain sharp and bar greasy and they won't let you down.

 

[RLGL]

Stihl MS 180

 

[BUTCH1]

Husqvarna and Stihl are the only ones I'd be looking at.

Try to run non-ethanol gas in it when you mix too, and don't skimp on changing filters. They won't let you down.

The Poulan Pro linked to above is made by Husqvarna and is only $100 shipped. Stihl/Echo/Husqvarna will always be among the choice for Pro's but the average homeowner will do just fine with a $100 48cc "18 bar Poulan. For something like a lawnmower it makes sense to go to the top brands/models since this will be used a lot every year, with a chainsaw, not so much. Even cutting your own firewood the Poulan will be up to the task much better than the $180 30cc Stihl.

 

[slag]

Are you following proper storage procedures?, if you just store any chain-saw for months on end without draining out all the gas and running the carb dry you WILL have issues. 2-strokes are fussy as it is in relation to starting, you throw in stale, old gas at it and any saw will give you headaches. Can't hurt to change the air filter/spark plug once a season either.

I have a husqvarna that i put away with fuel in it for a year or so at a time and it fires up on the 2nd or 3rd pull every time. Good idea to practice, but not absolutely necessary all the time. Same with the 2 stroke jetskis.. Never have any carb problems with them, but I don't use ethanol in my gas either fwiw.

 

[NuclearNed]

I've abused the heck out of my Stihl for the past 10 years, yet it still works great. I live in the woods and use it a lot, but no real problems other than the kickback bar developing a crack in its plastic where it is mounted to the body of the saw.

 

[RLGL]

For the casual user the best advice is to put Stabil in the fuel. I only mix 1 gallon at a time. Also I use non-oxy fuel.

 

[Red Squirrel]

The issue with small gas engines is that if you don't use them regularly the gas/oil goes stale over time, gums up the carb etc... So I would try to stick with electric for a chainsaw you're only using around the house. Either way you also need bar oil, not sure if that goes bad or not, I don't think it does.

For small branches/trees like you describe I'd even just go the sawzall route with a buck saw style blade. Or even just a hand buck saw. It's incredible what you can cut with just that with not that much effort. When I was a kid I used to cut down big trees with mine for fun. Basically I'd go in the forest and find a dead tree and try to get it to land a certain way.

If you were cutting down lot of trees and chopping it into logs then yeah I'd go the gas route and get a good brand like Stihl or Husqvarna.

 

[kage69]

The Poulan Pro linked to above is made by Husqvarna and is only $100 shipped. Stihl/Echo/Husqvarna will always be among the choice for Pro's but the average homeowner will do just fine with a $100 48cc "18 bar Poulan. For something like a lawnmower it makes sense to go to the top brands/models since this will be used a lot every year, with a chainsaw, not so much. Even cutting your own firewood the Poulan will be up to the task much better than the $180 30cc Stihl.

I disagree, mostly because I've seen more cheaper saws in various levels of disrepair and disuse than I can count. Guys try to save money, push the cheapie beyond what it can handle, then they're paying for a string of repairs and parts or buying another saw altogether.

Get the right tool for the job.

Edit: I should have mentioned earlier, let's not get too carried away with white sheet numbers when it comes to product specs. I've seen relatively small Honda gas generators outperform larger gens that had >1000W rated output advantage. I've seen my Ariens snow thrower lob thick stuff substantially farther than an old neighbor did with a Sears that had a bigger engine. Cost is of course a huge factor in the decision on what to buy, I get that. I think my take on it is if the difference between a real saw and the weekend warrior variety is that imposing, time to re-evaluate. Why not just find someone who has a saw, and more importantly knows how to use it, and let them make quick work of whatever it is, and you just keep the other $100 or so?

Put off your saw purchase long enough for it to be done correctly and conveniently. You wouldn't be searching for bargain basement lowest price possible if you were shopping for Lasik would you? That's shits permanent. Why do it with a tool that can easily maim or kill you, that shits permanent too.

 

[NetWareHead]

Everythign I wanted to say has been covered already in this thread. I happen to like Stihl or Husqvarna; cant go wrong with either saw. I bought a Husqvarna 460 Rancher and have been very pleased, it cuts anything I want.

I do practice "winterization" of my 2 stroke equipment and that ibcludes storing it with non ethanol fuel in the tank. I also remove the spark plug and squirt some fogging oil into the cylinder and replace the plug. Pull the starter a few times to move the piston up and down coating the cylinder walls. I then pull the starting rope until I feel some resistance, that is the upward motion of the piston when both valves are closed (compression stroke). That tells me the cylinder is sealed shut and I store it that way during the winter. During the spring-fall season, if I havent used the saw in a month or so, I'll take it out and start it, let it run for 5 minutes and rev the engine a few times so it stays in-use.

 

[skull]

Isn't that 3 in 1? Haven't looked at the can in awhile. It comes in shitty plastic bottles now. Their one clever variant is a smallish bottle with a wand you pull from the center to more easily oil tight places. Great, right? Not quite. When the bottle heats up, say in the back of a truck, it causes the oil to expand out of the wand, and all over the floor. I lost almost a whole bottle of oil that way :bangshead:

3 in 1 oil is junk period, its more of a solvent than an oil, cleans more lubrication off than it lubricates. I have to use a special oil on old electric blower motor bearings, boiler pump motors and bearing assemblies. It comes in a plastic container with a spout. I have the same problem though damn things constantly blow out all over my truck no matter where or how I store them. Its a huge pain in the ass.