Refrigerator causing interference, possible fix?

[thecrecarc]

In my computer (read: neffing) room, I have been noticing that my monitor would occasionally flicker and my speakers occasionally pop. I have a mini fridge in this room, and I am beginning to wonder if it may be causing line interference.

I am planning on installing a simple 250v .01 uf capacitor to the relay of said fridge. To those on ATOT better versed than I am, is this a good idea? Or will I meet an unspectacular end?

Or is there another reason that this may be occurring?

 

[Brainonska511]

What about a cheap UPS for the computer? Have you tried moving the fridge to another electrical line to see if the problem persists?

 

[thecrecarc]

What about a cheap UPS?

I was considering getting a voltage regulator for my monitor and speakers, but I figured I might as well try to nip the problem at the source with the fridge. It may be affecting other electronics in less noticeable ways.

What about a cheap UPS for the computer? Have you tried moving the fridge to another electrical line to see if the problem persists?

That would make things warm that I want to keep cold. It would also make too much sense.

 

[Brainonska511]

That would make things warm that I want to keep cold. It would also make too much sense.

It wouldn't make things warm if you find another circuit to put it on. It was just a suggestion (even as a temporary measure) if you haven't quite pinned it down to being caused by the fridge.

 

[thecrecarc]

It wouldn't make things warm if you find another circuit to put it on. It was just a suggestion (even as a temporary measure) if you haven't quite pinned it down to being caused by the fridge.

I actually have the fridge unplugged, and so far nothing has occurred. Although the flickering and popping is erratic, sometimes it won't occur for hours. So it is difficult to tell.

 

[phucheneh]

I would say the problem is less likely with the fridge and more likely with the circuit. First thing I would do is physically inspect the breaker.

 

[Red Squirrel]

Any sensitive electronics should be on a UPS, I would at least start with that. It may not fix the issue though as UPSes only act when there's a black out, but I'd still put one regardless, and go from there.

For the fridge, consider running a separate circuit for it, and make sure it's on the opposite AC leg as the computer. That should most likely solve the problem. Depending on the sensitivity of the UPS it may also kick in for a few seconds when the fridge starts up.

 

[thecrecarc]

I would say the problem is less likely with the fridge and more likely with the circuit. First thing I would do is physically inspect the breaker.

What would I be looking for?

 

[jagec]

What would I be looking for?

the breaker.

 

[onza]

I want to say - wrap it in tin foil.

 

[MixMasterTang]

http://forums.slimdevices.com/showthread.php?75596-My-fridge-makes-my-speakers-pop

 

[phucheneh]

What would I be looking for?

Burn marks around where the breaker connects to the bus bar are typical. It's from arcing when the breaker is not making good contact.

Don't go pulling breakers if you're not comfortable with it, though.

 

[Scarpozzi]

Refridgerators have 2 things that happen....

1. Thermostat tells compressor to kick on
2. Timer tells frost-free circuit to kick on (small heater to thaw ice that forms)

My father actually built a defrost circuit from a ceramic resistor and a christmas light/lamp timer circuit so the freezer would defrost ever 30 minutes.

In any case, both 1 and 2 require a lot of current to work....I agree that if you throw your system on a UPS, you may be able to kill two birds with one stone.

 

[phucheneh]

Refridgerators have 2 things that happen....

1. Thermostat tells compressor to kick on
2. Timer tells frost-free circuit to kick on (small heater to thaw ice that forms)

My father actually built a defrost circuit from a ceramic resistor and a christmas light/lamp timer circuit so the freezer would defrost ever 30 minutes.

In any case, both 1 and 2 require a lot of current to work....I agree that if you throw your system on a UPS, you may be able to kill two birds with one stone.

He said 'mini fridge,' though. And even a full-size fridge shouldn't induce enough disturbance to make electronics flicker, should it?

Seems to me that he's probably got a weak link somewhere that is just being exacerbated by the fridge. I doubt there is an issue with the solid core wiring, so it pretty much becomes 'bad connection at outlet' or 'bad connection at breaker box,' no?

/not an electrician

 

[thecrecarc]

Yes, its a mini fridge listed as 1.3 amps. That's why it is confusing me, I would expect a full sized fridge affecting the line but a mini fridge?

I want to keep the mini fridge in the room, which is why I am wondering if there is a fix that doesn't involve moving it to another line.

A UPS or AVR would probably fix the issue with my monitor or speakers, but wouldn't line fluctuations like that affect other electronics on the same line negatively? I am hoping to solve the problem with the fridge, but I will consider getting something like a UPS.

 

[phucheneh]

Some stuff is more sensitive than other stuff. FWIW I've never used a UPS and my PC has never had issues with power fluctuations. Your PC's internal power supply is kind of its own filter...in a very limited capacity...if it's a decent quality unit that's not being pushed very hard, a very brief dip in the input voltage usually isn't an issue. The filter caps will keep the power flowing for those milliseconds. (EE's, correct me if needed)

Speakers, even more so. Ever turned on a set that you didn't realize were plugged in, and actually gotten a bit of sound out of them before it faded and the power light went out? That's capacitors in the power supply being discharged.

I'm honestly not sure what a 'pop' would indicate. Seems more like 'dirty' power rather than just a dip in line voltage. It also could be on the signal side rather than the power (amplification) side.

Monitor could be signal side, too. Perhaps you have a bad PSU?

 

[SphinxnihpS]

When the compressor motor fires up it draws a lot more current than once it is running. As they get older the effect is magnified.

Loose connections in the outlet are more likely than loose connections on the breakers, as outlets get force applied to them repeatedly.

Fluorescent lighting can also cause problems by throwing off magnetic fields from the ballasts. I doubt it's this because the symptoms are wrong.

Loose connections on the back of the computer can cause monitor flickering and speaker popping. The popping sound is definitely from power being applied and quickly interrupted.

 

[Scarpozzi]

Yes, its a mini fridge listed as 1.3 amps. That's why it is confusing me, I would expect a full sized fridge affecting the line but a mini fridge?

I want to keep the mini fridge in the room, which is why I am wondering if there is a fix that doesn't involve moving it to another line.

A UPS or AVR would probably fix the issue with my monitor or speakers, but wouldn't line fluctuations like that affect other electronics on the same line negatively? I am hoping to solve the problem with the fridge, but I will consider getting something like a UPS.

Do you know what size wire you have in your walls? Is it 12/2 or 14/2? If you flip the breaker, what else turns off....that will give you an idea of what all is on that circuit and if it's just limited to one room of the house.

Despite what it's rated, when the fridge kicks on, there's going to be a surge or spike. That's what's likely causing the interference. The spike can sometimes be 20-30% (total guess) of what its peak usage is...just depends on how cheaply made it is.

 

[thecrecarc]

Hm, well I purchased an AVR, that should fix it correct?