[Retired] The LCD Thread

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sparkuss

Member
Jul 4, 2003
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Sorry if this is the wrong place but its the only result from searching the video forum.

I want to connect two computers to my 20WMGX2 without using a KVM and using the single available DVI connector. I will simply turn one off and the other on when using them. I can't use the VGA and the DVI at the same time because the 2nd PC card is "out of range" using the VGA output but works fine on DVI.

EDIT: Found some answers on the DVI-WIKI

So, has anyone ever seen/found a DVI-I spliiter cable?

Thanks
 

Low Radiation

Member
Aug 15, 2006
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Thanx a lot, xtknight!
I see that you have a lot of questions to answer, but i'll ask one more:

How good is lg l206wt (or 226wt which you have, they're similar) with shadow detail? If that's good, i'm taking it. Maybe some quick comparison between lg and nec?

All this "thinking" is not because of price, but because of unavailability of some models in my country. I think i would take NEC, but if the lg is the only thing i can find...i'll take that.

If YOU were buying today, what would you buy?


Thanx again, if you were closer, i'd buy you something big for all you're doing for us . Something like a 24" OLED or FED display )
 

dedejean

Member
Jun 16, 2005
122
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Originally posted by: xtknight
The only 22" panels I would go for these days are the ones based off the LG Philips LCD 22" TN. The only one I know of is the LG L226WT/L226WTX and L226WTQ (Q is less desirable due to RTC problems, but not horrible). The CMO-based 22" panels (others) are less desirable yet.

Thank you.

Sorry for asking stupid question, (tried to backread but cant find anything)... do 16:9 PC LCDs have 4:3 button/otpion that i can select.. where left and right black borders will appear? This way, i can still play my normal games with 1280x1024 on a 22" 1680x1050 resolution.

 

Low Radiation

Member
Aug 15, 2006
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66
I looked and found that i can buy HP LP2065 in my country, and that was quastionable, so now my choice widens between LG l204wt and HP lp2065.

Xtknight, you said in recommendations that HP is not that great with dark tones. What did you mean by that? Can you compare it to 20wgx2 and lg l204wt (i'm talking only aboout dark tones because that is very important to me).

Thanx
 

xtknight

Elite Member
Oct 15, 2004
12,974
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Originally posted by: soltys
I've examined the problematic pixel I've found on my new panel. Looking at it closely with a magnifying glass, revealed that it's not really dead or stuck. It actually looks like partially (?) damaged green one - somehow like this. Apart from that, all the 3 subpixels seem to work properly.

Is there a name for this type of thing ?

"Partially dead subpixel" is probably the best term for it. I've heard of it before (occurring on an NEC 20WMGX2 I believe).

It was actually discussed a bit at the end of the last LCD thread but the best theory I can remember was that in a multidomain LCD (for which there are 4 cells per subpixel), a certain cell of a subpixel was damaged.

What LCD model is this, out of curiosity?

Also, on purely black screen I've noticed tiny leaks on handful of pixels - mainly green and red ones. Literally as if a subpixel wasn't tight enough to hold the backlight properly. Normaly unnoticable (I have to be a few cms from the screen to start noticing them), but there are 2 bigger red "leaks" that are easy to spot from a distance (and they don't need black background). In this case, all subpixels seem to function correctly as well.

Is this normal thing with lcd screens ? From what I know it doesn't fall into backlight bleeding category.

It would be helpful to know which LCD you have. A TN operates by being "normally white" (max voltage=black), while IPS and MVA displays are "normally black" (max voltage=white).

Originally posted by: Low Radiation
And i want to know a few things about HP lp2065:

1. Is there really a panel lottery with it (i want only s-ips)
2. I saw that xtknight put it on the first place for office work (that means it's really easy on the eyes, right?)
3. How good it is for gaming?

1. Hrmmm...well I have heard of very few AMVA panels. I'm pretty sure most are still S-IPS. Even if you get an AMVA, you know what? It's still probably the best panel for your purposes at a good price, so you can't lose either way.

2. Yes it is indeed very easy on the eyes. I know for a fact that the S-IPS in there is very comfortable to use.

3. I don't think it's bad at all for gaming. Response time seemed above decent on the 20.1" S-IPS I tested. Of course it's not as good as the best but you can get by. It might even be pretty good but I didn't have a chance to game on the 20.1" S-IPS I tried (Dell 2007FP).

Originally posted by: speedlever
XTKnight... good to see you've maintained this thread. I need to get another LCD and was thinking 17" size... but seeing the screamin' deal on the LG L204WT... I'm mighty tempted by that to replace my 970P (which is fine, btw). I just need another LCD for another computer and wasn't thinking of replacing the 970p until I saw this.

Guess I better look at one in person before I jump on it. Not sure about the 1680x1050 native res compared to the 1280x1024 I've been used to.

Still, if the IQ is similar to my 970P, that sounds like a DEAL.

Well, I believe it'll be pretty close. The 970P is a pretty decent LCD though (S-PVA). The L204WT delivers decent colors even though it's a TN. The only problem I can foresee is that of viewing angle.

Sorry to hear about the stand. I just left the LCD up there hoping Samsung or customers would deal with it and get it fixed (although from my readings Samsung has been far from understanding). To tell you the truth I want to leave it up there despite the stand problems.
 

xtknight

Elite Member
Oct 15, 2004
12,974
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Originally posted by: Starbuck1975
Before checking them, adding following environmental variable should help:
DEVMGR_SHOW_NONPRESENT_DEVICES=1
Thank you for the additional advice, but how to I add an environmental variable through Device Manager?

I also run CCleaner to cleanse my registry on a routine basis, so wouldn't that catch any monitor residue floating around on my system?

No. CCleaner does not touch the devices or system hive of the registry like an app such as Driver Cleaner. It cleans application and shell cache only.

Go to the command line (start menu run, type "cmd"). Type the following commands (ignoring >).

> set DEVMGR_SHOW_NONPRESENT_DEVICES=1
> devmgmt.msc

Select view->show hidden devices (or similar) in GUI.

Remove everything in the monitors or displays section (even gray items) of the device manager ignoring all warnings, and reboot your computer.
 

rdtx2005

Junior Member
May 28, 2007
3
0
0
i guess i'll avoid the 9f0bf

how about the 193p or the 931bf? I'm looking for something for part time gaming a movie vieiwng
 

desh

Junior Member
Jun 1, 2007
2
0
0
I read tom's hardware review of the Viewsonic VX922, and this was the fastest (response time) LCD monitor they have seen. Is there a reason you don't reccomend it as a gaming monitor.
 

speedlever

Senior member
Oct 27, 2000
277
0
0
Well, the LG L204WT deal at Circuit City is over. It was there this morning, but gone tonight... replaced with just a $50 rebate now. I stopped by my local CC to check it out... and they had a display model... $350 in store with a $50 rebate. I asked the CSR to check online, and sure enough, the $150 rebate was gone.

 

ShinMech

Member
May 29, 2006
26
0
0
Hey xtknight, no doubt the NEC 24WMGX2 monitor is one of the best 20+ inches for gaming but I was wondering if you happen to know any monitor that are over 23-24" that is also suitable for gaming?
 

emperorgrous

Junior Member
Jul 20, 2005
1
0
0

Originally posted by: nytmarezz
xtknight,

Thank you very much for taking the time to answer my questions but I have just a few more if you don't mind.

____.1a

Like I mentioned my usage patterns are mostly gaming so when I hear you mention input lag and I see horrifying comparisons on youtube between a CRT and an LCD that gets me very concerned. The video I am talking about (which I can't link to at the moment since I am at work) shows a Dell 2407FPW and some CRT. While the response time on the 2407FPW seems fully capable of displaying the high FPS its obviously lagging behind the CRT enough that you can actually see it when the player makes fast moves. A quick search for "lcd input lag" would probably find the video in question very quickly.

Sorry, but these "experimentations" are largely non-scientific and people make sweeping conclusions based off of them. The main thing people miss is that humans learn to adapt to such things as input lag. If anyone compares it to network lag (bidirectional), they do not know what they are talking about. Lag on network makes play difficult mainly because of misprediction by the game engine, causing misplaced shots. That is not anything like a slight lag on the output device.

I believe that there will be very little disadvantage, even in fast-paced games, when using most LCDs. In more extreme cases, like using a 50 ms input lag Dell 2407, there may be some very minor consequences. Anyway I think it is rather ridiculous to obsess over that stuff unless you game a competitive league like CAL, or perhaps if you're on online ladders. There are many people who just game casually and for those, those LCDs without a doubt are fine. Those complaining of obnoxious input lag have simply not allowed themselves to adapt to it. Switching from a 0 ms lag CRT to a 50 ms lag Dell 2407WFP may not be the easiest transition. After all, even switching to a more conventional LCD like a 19" (assuming it has RTC) will involve around 16 ms of input lag already. Even that takes time to adapt to.

Based on your reply regarding the input lag and response time between a 22" [vs] 24" TN panels would it be thus safe to presume it comes out to something like this: The higher the resolution and/or the bigger the moniter = higher input lag? Likewise do all the other panel types (PVA/MVA) have higher input lag than TNs?

That's pretty much true. It does seem that most PVAs and IPSs have a higher input lag than TNs, but that's probably because they use RTC a lot more as it is pretty much essential on PVA/IPS panels.

____.1b

If yes to the above question, how big of a difference are we talking about between sizes/resolutions/panel-types?

We don't know for sure. As far as I know, input lag is due to the overdrive buffer, which shouldn't get bigger due to resolution. It just so happens that the biggest LCDs with high resolutions use PVA and IPS panels the most, and those use overdrive the most. Some may use even more aggressive overdrive (3 or 4 frames stored = 32ms). As to why we're hitting 50 ms of input lag, I simply don't know. There is no concrete info.

____.2a

Ok regarding the 100Hz LCDs again. I'll just explain how I understand the whole refresh [vs] response situation and you can just tell me if I'm right, somewhere in the middle or just flat wrong.

Current LCDs usually run at a 60Hz refresh rate at their native resolution. That means they cannot display more than 60 images per second regardless of how many your your video card is sending or how low their response time is. At the maximum that would translate to a response time of 16ms (1000ms/60Hz = ~16ms).

You are comparing the time at which it takes the whole screen to update compared to how long it takes a single cell to update. The comparison is invalid because no cell on the LCD transitions at exactly the same speed as another. And, for example, it can take twice as long to transition from red to gray as it does to get from red to blue.

So technically, until the refresh rate is increased, response times faster than 16ms are useless since they cannot be fully utilized. However since (as far as I know?) very few LCDs are capable of a 16ms response time (from full black to full white) the issue is moot for now. In that sense refresh rate "doesn't matter" on LCDs since the response time isn't low enough YET to actually make a difference.

Response time on LCDs is a very confusing thing (I don't even really understand all the mechanics). When you put overdrive in the picture it is even more complicated. Making a transition from a pure red to a pure blue is usually very fast, as is any transition from one fully bright color to another. That's because (in the case of red->blue) overdrive can send a strong impulse to turn off the red subpixel and turn on the blue one without worrying that much about going over, since we are requesting the brightest color anyway. Even natively, I believe TFT screens are faster at going from one extreme to another, versus going from one gray to another gray because the precision at which they must twist isn't as crucial when you just want to get from extreme A(0) to extreme B(255). The notion that gray-to-gray is an inaccurate measurement and is always faster than black-to-white is just plain false because it is based off a false assumption.

Many LCDs are capable of reaching under 7 ms for any possible transition (although they due suffer some RTC error, which technically should increase the response time). Black to white response time is probably around 2 ms on the fastest LCDs now. In fact, one direction (black->white or white->black) is faster than CRTs in some cases. Move a white cursor on a black screen on a CRT and a TN LCD, even without overdrive (e.g. Samsung SyncMaster 710T). You will notice that the CRT has more ghosting (due to its phosphors). It's intermediate transitions where the most problems occur.

Let's take a look at the fastest TN in the world, the BenQ FP93GX:

http://www.xbitlabs.com/articl...isplay/19inch-4_9.html

( Close competitor with the LG L1970HR (which I should relist now that availability of the BenQ is limited) ): http://www.xbitlabs.com/articl...splay/19inch-5_16.html

Both are very fast, but it looks like the L1970HR is able to reach under 6 ms for all the transitions. Worst RTC error is 43.7%. So you can add that to 6 ms (6ms + (.437)*6ms) = 8.622 ms full transition time, worst case. (And then there's the input lag which wasn't measured, but can't be much worse than most 19" TNs.) Input lag of the LG L1960TQ (different one) is {0, 7.6, 25} (min, avg, max).[1]

[1] http://www.lesnumeriques.com/d...&mo2=112&p2=1134&ph=12

____.2b

If my understanding in the above is correct: are higher refresh rate LCDs, capable of truly showing higher FPS not through some "cheat" or other technology, in our near future?

I still don't quite understand how a couple LCDs are capable of showing a higher refresh rate. Many have said that they skip every fifth or sixth frame to convert it to 60 Hz, but if so it's doing a pretty good job. I have used 75 Hz on the ViewSonic VP930b next to me, for years, and I've enjoyed the perceptually smoother motion. This seems to be a feature no manufacturer really cares about much. It's just something that is slapped on as a feature to the DSP if they feel like it. Some just get lazy and limit every res to 60 Hz. I've heard absolutely nothing about the future in this regard.

____.3

I looked at the CMO panels mentioned by you earlier in this thread and the M240J2-L01 sounds interesting. It has a low response time and since its not using RTC that should help reduce input lag (right?). I'm assuming its going to be 1920x1200. If it's already gone into mass production, how soon do you think we will start seeing this on the market?

Yes, it should reduce the input lag. I'm also interested to see how the Samsung 245B[W], a 24" and I believe RTC-less TN, performs. I have no idea when CMO's 24" TNs will be on the market, or even if they will. That was some confidential info I just happened to stumble across (google M240J2-L01).

I'm betting we will see a lot more LCDs based on the Samsung 24" TN panel very soon.
 

sparkuss

Member
Jul 4, 2003
102
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76
xtknight,

I asked but looks like no one has seen a dvi-i splitter/cable.

By chance are you using any type of KVM to try out all these LCDs and if so, can you recommend the one you use.

Thanks
 

xtknight

Elite Member
Oct 15, 2004
12,974
0
71
Originally posted by: sparkuss
xtknight,

I asked but looks like no one has seen a dvi-i splitter/cable.

By chance are you using any type of KVM to try out all these LCDs and if so, can you recommend the one you use.

Thanks

I don't personally test most of the LCDs listed in the OP. They are listed based on technical info/trends and other professional reviews or user opinions. I have never used a KVM, nor a DVI-I splitter. Sorry.

What about this? http://www.gefen.com/kvm/product.jsp?prod_id=3571
 

xtknight

Elite Member
Oct 15, 2004
12,974
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Originally posted by: NiKeFiDO
Just as an aside - has anyone looked into what kind of panels Apple has been using? (Not that they are worth the hefty price)
Also, on their newer iMacs - are these LCDs the typical TN ones used for laptop screens? We got my father a 20.1 iMac and I am wondering how well it does for desktop publishing (as he is in graphic design).

Apple uses mostly S-IPSs, especially in their Cinema Displays. The 20.1" widescreen Cinema Display uses an LG Philips LCD S-IPS like the good Dell 2007s and the NEC 20WMGX2. Great/best choice, if that's indeed what you got. It performs even better calibrated.

Originally posted by: Low Radiation
And one last question:

How does lp2065 pass dark detail tests? I read somewhere that you can calibrate it for good shadow detail, but then for normal use picture looks washed out

It should do OK although I hear uncalibrated it doesn't do that great with dark details (as I briefly mention in the OP). Yes, you must calibrate it for good or satisfactory results, probably. Generally calibration does not leave anything else washed out, though. The HP LP2065 should perform awesome in all categories after calibration. I recommend the 215TW over the LP2065 because of its uncalibrated/dark details issue. It's not that the LP2065 is much worse than any other for shadow detail, though. The 215TW and 20WMGX2 just tend to be better. After calibration, all of those LCDs are stunning, which is why I highly recommend a good colorimeter (e.g. Eye One Display 2) and good calibration software (e.g. basICColor).
 

xtknight

Elite Member
Oct 15, 2004
12,974
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71
Originally posted by: Low Radiation
Thanx a lot, xtknight!
I see that you have a lot of questions to answer, but i'll ask one more:

How good is lg l206wt (or 226wt which you have, they're similar) with shadow detail? If that's good, i'm taking it. Maybe some quick comparison between lg and nec?

The L226WT wasn't too bad with shadow detail for a TN but the detail looked washed out compared to my vibrant NEC. I believe I mentioned a good deal about this in my review in the old thread. Anyway, the LG showed dark detail but it looked leaky and milky/murky and therefore it wasn't very sharp.

All this "thinking" is not because of price, but because of unavailability of some models in my country. I think i would take NEC, but if the lg is the only thing i can find...i'll take that.

If YOU were buying today, what would you buy?

What country and what price range? Sorry if you already mentioned it but I have a bad memory.

Let's say you gave me around $2000. I'd probably buy the NEC 2690WUXi (and actually I'm thinking of saving up for it). But if it were around the <$600 level then it would be the NEC 20WGX2 or if I couldn't find it, an LG L226WT according to the needs you mentioned (noncritical work, prolonged use, not picky about viewing angle). It really does have great contrast. I might consider the Samsung 215TW before the L226WT also.

Thanx again, if you were closer, i'd buy you something big for all you're doing for us . Something like a 24" OLED or FED display )

It's OK. It always helps me keep up on LCDs and besides I still love LCDs more than any other computer device. When OLEDs and FEDs (or some mutated CRTs) come out though you can bet I'll have a thread on those too.
 

soltys

Junior Member
Aug 6, 2004
23
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66
Originally posted by: xtknight
It was actually discussed a bit at the end of the last LCD thread but the best theory I can remember was that in a multidomain LCD (for which there are 4 cells per subpixel), a certain cell of a subpixel was damaged.

What LCD model is this, out of curiosity?

...

It would be helpful to know which LCD you have. A TN operates by being "normally white" (max voltage=black), while IPS and MVA displays are "normally black" (max voltage=white).

NEC 20WGX2 Pro, produced march 2007, iirc - don't remember where I found this info.
 

xtknight

Elite Member
Oct 15, 2004
12,974
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71
Originally posted by: rdtx2005
i guess i'll avoid the 9f0bf

how about the 193p or the 931bf? I'm looking for something for part time gaming a movie vieiwng

I need more details, but these are the LCDs I would recommend, in this order:

ViewSonic VP930b
Samsung 971P
LG L1970HR
Samsung 940BF

Originally posted by: desh
I read tom's hardware review of the Viewsonic VX922, and this was the fastest (response time) LCD monitor they have seen. Is there a reason you don't reccomend it as a gaming monitor.

It's not the fastest anymore now that we have the BenQ FP93GX, Samsung 940BF, and LG L1970HR (all reviewed by X-Bit Labs). THG hasn't reviewed any of these yet, but they all reach under 7 ms while the VX922 from what I remember still hit >10 ms. Also, the VX922 has fairly poor color rendering IIRC. I didnt' even think the VX922 was still available but it's still not a bad choice. The others are just better.

Originally posted by: speedlever
Well, the LG L204WT deal at Circuit City is over. It was there this morning, but gone tonight... replaced with just a $50 rebate now. I stopped by my local CC to check it out... and they had a display model... $350 in store with a $50 rebate. I asked the CSR to check online, and sure enough, the $150 rebate was gone.

That sucks, but I did remove the deal from the OP now.

Originally posted by: ShinMech
Hey xtknight, no doubt the NEC 24WMGX2 monitor is one of the best 20+ inches for gaming but I was wondering if you happen to know any monitor that are over 23-24" that is also suitable for gaming?

The 24WMGX2 isn't even out yet. You want ones bigger than 24" that are OK for gaming? Probably the Dell 2707WFP and NEC LCD2690WUxi. Slim pickens in that category though. There haven't been too many monitors that size that have been reviewed (or at least ones at affordable prices). The HP LP3065 and Dell 3007WFP aren't too bad, either.
 

xtknight

Elite Member
Oct 15, 2004
12,974
0
71
Originally posted by: mushroom3
hey xtknight, is there a way to find out which panel you get with the l226wt?

Not any reliable way. If you're curious you can enter the service menu but LG's service menus have been known to show false panel info.

Turn off your monitor.
Hold down the menu key on the monitor.
While holding the menu key, turn the monitor back on.
When the screen is on again, release the menu button, and then hit the menu button once.

LG Philips LCD (according to a recent DigiTimes article) has been known to receive panels from CMO and CPT a lot though, so you never know.
 

sparkuss

Member
Jul 4, 2003
102
0
76
xtknight,

Thanks for the reply,

Yeah looks like I'll have to go KVM, all the splitters are 1-2 and I need 2-1. (Two separate DVI-I into the single DVI-I on 20WMGX2)

Also, I know at least one person awhile back had serious backlight bleed with the 20WMGX2. He returned his. Mine is past return point, and maybe I'm just focusing on it too much, I don't have a calibrator either. But, is there any chance for bleed to get "worse" with time (since Feb07)? I'm definitely getting that same gold up close at any angle besides dead on. At normal distance I'm getting purplish both sides of center if I move off perpendicular with my facing.

Cheers
 

xtknight

Elite Member
Oct 15, 2004
12,974
0
71
Originally posted by: sparkuss
xtknight,

Thanks for the reply,

Yeah looks like I'll have to go KVM, all the splitters are 1-2 and I need 2-1. (Two separate DVI-I into the single DVI-I on 20WMGX2)

Also, I know at least one person awhile back had serious backlight bleed with the 20WMGX2. He returned his. Mine is past return point, and maybe I'm just focusing on it too much, I don't have a calibrator either. But, is there any chance for bleed to get "worse" with time (since Feb07)? I'm definitely getting that same gold up close at any angle besides dead on. At normal distance I'm getting purplish both sides of center if I move off perpendicular with my facing.

Cheers

Those aren't really things to worry about (the gold and purple). That's just how S-IPS panels are and I can't recall a single time where it's annoyed me since I never view the LCD at such a weird angle for it to happen.

Backlight bleed could very well get worse or better over time due to pressure on the panel. The NEC 20WGX2 tends to get better after the first week of purchasing it. The only way that you may have increased backlight bleed is to have increased the brightness. The glossy coating works better in some lighting instances than others, also.
 

Ika

Lifer
Mar 22, 2006
14,264
3
81
Any thoughts on the Acer AL2223WD? I've been looking at widescreen 22"s lately and I thought I had settled on the LG L226WT, but the combination of the light bleeding complaints on the latter and the very very low price on the former has made me reconsider. Are the differences with a $150 price difference?

I would have really liked the Samsung 226BW but the panel lottery has made the monitor quite unsatisfactory.
 
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