RMA E6600

[Tony Eveready]

If you remember my old thread about high idle temps with the stock heatsink, then welcome to the update!

pasted from another forum I posted this ****** on:

I am still within newegg's 30 day return. Backstory:

I bought an E6600 and planned to use stock cooling for a mild overclock. I consistantly was idling at 51-52c(according to tat and other programs) with the stock heatsink. Reseated it several times and applied AS5 to see NO improvements... and I knew what I was doing.

Fast forward a bit... I get a new case (Thermaltake armor with 25cm fan on the side) and a Tuniq 120 to make sure I get the best cooling possible. Now for my current temps:

Ambient is always around 30c/29c idle, ive never seen it go above 35(after HOURS of gaming).

I idle at 33c with stock voltages and clocks (2.4/1.27 or something) and TAT will bring my PC to 55C with the little stress it does. Not too bad... but consider I am using a Tuniq 120 with AS5 seated (I assume...) properly.

Overlocked? I run at 1.4v 1600fsb (3.6ghz) and unlinked the memory and left it at 800mhz. I idle at 40c in this setup and TAT can bring my temps to the high 60s/low 70s after running a while!! Orthos will bring them to 65 or so... and fails after about an hour with a rounding error.

Gaming (WoW only, havent had time to install anything else) after af ew hours I seem to hit 61c max or so.

Here is my dilemma: should I RMA this chip? Does it sound like it's slightly concave? I have read about -much- better temps with the tuniq, and I've even heard stock coolers at stock settings reaching the temps my Tuniq does at stock, which is unacceptable considering how much I paid for it. This combined with the high idle temps I received with the stock cooler only makes me thing that the surface of the IHS is not flat, and after digging around the net a LOT, it seems this is rather common.

So, I'm asking what you guys think. Does it sound like a faulty IHS? Should I RMA it to newegg while I can? The problem is I do NOT want to lap the sucker if I don't have to. I have no qualms about lapping the tuniq's base which I plan on doing regardless, but if you consider all the high temps it seems unlikely that the rough buttom of the tuniq is the ONLY culprit here.

NOTE: I have NOT done the razor test to determine if the surface is absolutely flat, I don't have a razor on hand.

Thanks for reading this and I hope lots of people give me input because I'm kind of in a hurry and on a time frame.

 

[jkresh]

returning it because it doesnt ovewrlcock as well as you want is something that is generaly frowned upon. If it was locking at stock settings then thats something but your orthos issue is probably not temperature related (temperature monitors are notoriously inaccurate) try bumping the voltage to 1.45 and see if it works at 3.6 (my e6600 can only reach 3.4 at 1.6v with high end water (temps never get above 40C even with orthos, but...)

 

[Tony Eveready]

Originally posted by: jkresh
returning it because it doesnt ovewrlcock as well as you want is something that is generaly frowned upon. If it was locking at stock settings then thats something but your orthos issue is probably not temperature related (temperature monitors are notoriously inaccurate) try bumping the voltage to 1.45 and see if it works at 3.6 (my e6600 can only reach 3.4 at 1.6v with high end water (temps never get above 40C even with orthos, but...)

I'm not RMAing it for poor ovreclocking. If you read what I said. my idle temps were in the 52s+ with stock everything. Unacceptable on its own merit, the fact that I bought a Tuniq 120 is IRRELEVANT to because it didn't come for free with the CPU to make it actually functional.

I see me RMAing it to newegg to ask them to find out if anything was wrong with the surface of the heatsink or the cpu , and if so, send me the new one.


A 50c idle is unacceptable and just because I paid SIXTY DOLLARS to drop these abysmal temps with a Tuniq does not entitle me to be slapped on the wrist with a "frowned upon" catchphrase which you would have refrained from using anyway, had you read my entire post.

 

[Tony Eveready]

I'd also like to add, when I gammed on stock speeds with the stock HSF it was reaching mid 60s very freq and this was after maybe 45 minutes of playing. Intel's recommended do not pass number is 61 or something, so that's definitely a reason to return as well.

 

[Tony Eveready]

Also I see this was moved to that overclocking forum... or I posted it here on accident. should have went to cases/cooling I guess if you want to get technical.

 

[Accord99]

Originally posted by: Tony Eveready
I'd also like to add, when I gammed on stock speeds with the stock HSF it was reaching mid 60s very freq and this was after maybe 45 minutes of playing. Intel's recommended do not pass number is 61 or something, so that's definitely a reason to return as well.

From TAT, the danger temperature is around 85C. That's where the C2D automatically beginst to throttle and is measured from within the core. The 61C refers to the temperature at the top-center of the heat spreader.

 

[Tony Eveready]

Originally posted by: Accord99

Originally posted by: Tony Eveready
I'd also like to add, when I gammed on stock speeds with the stock HSF it was reaching mid 60s very freq and this was after maybe 45 minutes of playing. Intel's recommended do not pass number is 61 or something, so that's definitely a reason to return as well.

From TAT, the danger temperature is around 85C. That's where the C2D automatically beginst to throttle and is measured from within the core. The 61C refers to the temperature at the top-center of the heat spreader.

Which is reported by what? Tell me and Im sure Ive seen the temp. ANd im pretty sure itd be over 60 too.

 

[DrMrLordX]

Please don't RMA a chip with a voided warranty. Your warranty was likely void after you overclocked and overvolted the chip unless Newegg permits such things. I'm pretty sure the Intel warranty does not cover any chip that's been overvolted or overclocked.

 

[Accord99]

Originally posted by: Tony Eveready
Which is reported by what? Tell me and Im sure Ive seen the temp. ANd im pretty sure itd be over 60 too.

Nothing reports the IHS temperature directly. The mobo temperature readings vary alot depending on which model and manaufacturer you have and can only be be a guess at best. The temperatures from TAT and Core Temp are more accurate.

Your high idle temperatures with the stock HSF might have been due to the MB reducing the fan speed because of the low power at idle. Those TAT temperatures at 3.6GHz are pretty reasonable.

 

[Diogenes2]

RMA 'ing to NewEgg can be a staisfaction issue. You take a 15% hit for doing so .. It is not the same as making a warranty claim..

No dishonor in doing so ..

 

[Shimmishim]

Before you RMA the chip, try this...

http://www.arcticsilver.com/ins_route_step2intelas5.html

i think AS understands that the QA/QC on the intel IHS's have been poor and have developed a new method for applying AS 5 on to the heatspreader of intel core2duo chips. this was brought to my attention by Duvie a while back. I've tried it before and it seems to help especially if you have a concave IHS.

 

[DrMrLordX]

Originally posted by: Diogenes2
RMA 'ing to NewEgg can be a staisfaction issue. You take a 15% hit for doing so .. It is not the same as making a warranty claim..

No dishonor in doing so ..

Hmm, okay, forget what I said then.

 

[Roguestar]

Does it work as advertised? Then don't RMA it. We other consumers have prices driven up when people who expect more than they paid for are surprised when stuff only does exactly what it says on the tin. Thanks for that.

 

[Diogenes2]

Originally posted by: Roguestar
Does it work as advertised? ....

Does anything ? Except, maybe rope ..

Why is it O.K. for Intel and AMD to sell ' under-clocked ' CPU's , but not O.K. for me to bump that chip to a speed it is perfectly capable of running at ..

Of course, going past the rated voltage is another matter.. If it explodes, it's your problem and unethical to call ' foul ' ....

Just my humble opinion...

 

[Roguestar]

The point being that if you are sold something that you are told can do X, you can't expect it to do Y just because a lot of other happen to have that ability. There's no justification in RMAing something if it isn't broken or has not been sold misleadingly. I appreciate the idea that you can get more for your money but if for example I hadn't been able to overclock my E6300 much I'd suck it up and say "bad chip" if I didn't get much more out of it. If it didn't do 1.86 like it is meant to, I'd return it but if you pay the money and get what you've bought then you're SOL, technically, if it doesn't do anything else.

 

[DrMrLordX]

Normally I object to people RMAing overclocked components simply because manufacturer's warranty and return policies specify that they will not replace items that have a voided warranty (namely CPUs that have been overclocked). This goes doubly so for CPUs destroyed in the overclocking process.

Since NewEgg will technically honor returns on products with a voided warranty, the OP could do it without defrauding NewEgg. Also keep in mind that the CPU in question still works as advertised, so if NewEgg takes it back after racking up a 15% restocking fee, they can easily sell it to someone else as an OEM part.

 

[n7]

How many damn times do we have to explain the fact that C2Ds use a digital temp sensor on the die vs. traditional measurements?!?

You have no reason to be RMAing.

The results you got from the stock cooler were pretty much normal!

 

[lopri]

Same as everyone. I see absolutely no reason to RMA that E6600. 3600MHz @1.40V is a pretty damn good overclock and chances are you'll not get a cheap that works better than that from an RMA.

 

[mercanucaribe]

Man, every time I read the overclocker board, I can't help but be amazed at how messed up some people's priorities are.

Examples: RMAing a chip so you can maybe get one 5 degrees cooler. Selling a chip and buying a new one, taking a 30% hit so you can MAYBE get an extra 100mhz. Benchmarking more than using your computer (applies more to the Video board probably).

 

[RamIt]

Originally posted by: mercanucaribe
Man, every time I read the overclocker board, I can't help but be amazed at how people drag old posts from the GRAVE.

How many pages did you have to go through to find this post?

 

[n7]

Originally posted by: RamIt

Originally posted by: mercanucaribe
Man, every time I read the overclocker board, I can't help but be amazed at how people drag old posts from the GRAVE.

How many pages did you have to go through to find this post?

I'm gonna have to agree.
WTF was the point of drudging up crap like this?

 

[mercanucaribe]

I didn't pay attention to the date. I was searching for "E6600".

 

[aigomorla]

Originally posted by: lopri
Same as everyone. I see absolutely no reason to RMA that E6600. 3600MHz @1.40V is a pretty damn good overclock and chances are you'll not get a cheap that works better than that from an RMA.

ROFLMAO... he's complaining about those load temps on that voltage.

Im highly betting its a B revision chip as well. Those temps seem on PAR with a B revision. Mine gets quite hot too, but she's kept nice and chilled on my h2o loop.

AHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA.... i have one thing to say... your going to RMA a chip most people on water would love to get there hands on, but are stuck with stupid A or F revisions.

<im not talking about myself. I have a B revision as well>

Op, you want to push to the MAX, get water then. Your chip sounds like mine, so lap the IHS, and spend about 300-400 on water. Otherwise dont complain about your chip. My baby will do 3.7ghz at 1.45 but the idle temps are 31C on my water. My setup will PWN a tuniq also.

Dont go RMAing a chip because you dont like its performance, or its not taylored to your liking. Watch your going to get a F revision, and next thing we'll see is you posting this thread up again.